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Need blade advice for more stable rallying |
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max vdh 
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Joined: 07/12/2018 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 29 |
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 Topic: Need blade advice for more stable rallyingPosted: 02/23/2020 at 6:03am |
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Hi,
I've been playing with 5 ply wood blades (Stratus powerwood with xiom vega pro/europe 1.8mm and violin with fastarc G-1/rozena 2.0 mm), and lately I've beeen yearning for a more stable experience. With my limited training time(only 2 hours a week) and thus limited technique, I feel like if I'm not 100% focused and in position the ball won't land on the table. I have a great loop on backspin balls but when I need to powerloop or the ball has less spin I find myself often going long (I almost never catch the net). I also go long when rallying or when the other player has the initiative. It feels like the flex of the blade is too high. As for me I'm a low intermediate player, I'm aiming for high intermediate level ( don't need to go any higher). playstyle : I either BH flip on serve return or I push until I have the right ball to initiate my opening FH loop followed by powerloops. What I want would be: - A more stable block - The possibility of playing weaker shots when out of position so that I could at least keep the rally going a little longer, more forgiveness - A little more stifness to remain in control when killing or punishing Basically I want to be able to play stable rally,win more "little points", overall be a more consistent player. So far I've been looking at different options from my usual flexy 5 ply and I have several paths : - Stiffer 5 ply : Andro tempered tech off - : seems like it would fit the bill. Donic burn off/off- : same as the above Butterfly mazunov : mid/high intermediate players in my club all roll with mazunov and they have one of the best ball control I've seen. - Tame 5+2 : I've never tried carbon but there seems to be some tame options. -Rossi emotion -Ma lin carbon -Senso series -7 ply clipper like : -Clipper or others. - Other suggestions
Conclusion : please help me sort out the best options for stable rallying and powerlooping. Edited by max vdh - 02/23/2020 at 6:06am |
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TT newbie
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Joined: 11/25/2011 Location: Far Far Away Status: Offline Points: 1391 |
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Posted: 02/23/2020 at 6:14am |
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Why don´t go to the most used combination around: ALC blade with tension rubbers?
Ok, I know BTY blades with ALC are expensive to test and there is always the risk you don´t like it. But there are alternatives such as Yinhe V14 Pro, which is a (slighly thicker) clone of Viscaria. This was my case, I would get a Viscaria but wanted to test ALC before buying such an expensive blade. So I got the V14 Pro and liked it so much that I gave up Viscaria.
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Simon_plays
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Joined: 05/02/2015 Location: Vietnam Status: Offline Points: 1084 |
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Posted: 02/23/2020 at 6:40am |
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Here's a surprising opinion
 : Your issue is not equipment related but instead down to your technique and shot selection. You say that when you come across flat balls or are trying to reloop balls these often go long whilst you do quite well when looping backspin. Sounds to me like you use too similar a technique for all three types of shots, hence why the backspin balls go on nicely and the other two tend to go off the end. Practice more of a drive shot against flat/ topspin balls where you don't go up but instead through the ball. This will help you get these balls on the table. Changing equipment to the things you have suggested will most likely lead to even more balls going off.
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Ingo_Ger
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Joined: 02/13/2019 Location: Germany Status: Offline Points: 65 |
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Posted: 02/23/2020 at 8:28am |
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+1 what Simon says
And one note: Flexible blades are slower than stiffer blades. Therefore, if you don't hit the table and the ball goes long: Go for more flexier blade because you might not be able to control the speed of your blade. A lot of people might say that a stiffer blade has less catapult which is in my opinion total nonsense. Just try its yourself: Take a Primo and a Viscaria and just let a ball bounce on them from the same height. You will be really surprised, the Viscaria will shoot of the ball twice as high which is in my opinion the best definition of catapult. |
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Omega 5 Tour (FH, 2.0 black) | T.H.C.B. custom 5 ply Western Red Cedar (Off-) | Hexer Powergrip (BH, 1.9, red)
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Basquests
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Joined: 08/29/2016 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 520 |
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Posted: 02/23/2020 at 7:34pm |
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Technique >>>>>>>>>>>> Equipment, especially if your equipment is of good quality and not completely clashing with your style.
Stable block and almost everything you can describe in table tennis, if its systematically wrong, its probably technique, and 2 hours a week is so much time to improve on that.
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DarkerMyLove
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Joined: 08/23/2016 Location: taiwan Status: Offline Points: 167 |
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Posted: 02/23/2020 at 8:53pm |
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I'd agree this is a technique issue only. The all wood blade + vega rubbers or G1 should be very controllable unless you are still in that beginner stage.
If you don't really have opportunity for coaching I would take the time to setup your phone to record yourself 5-10 mins (or longer). I'm sure you will discover the problem quite easily after watching yourself. If you are hitting with too much of a 'vertical swing path': Going from backspin loop (lets say 3rd ball attack) to the 5th ball you really need to focus on swinging through the ball forward (lots of horizontal acceleration). If you discover that you are overhitting, then you really need to figure out if the issue is timing or lack of good brush to create spin. In these cases, slow down your upper body/arm---> make your feet do all the work---> and focus on placement rather than "powerloop". Sometimes those who lack confidence of getting into 'open rallies' will try to crush the ball to 'end the point' but actually this will just create more unforced errors.
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ThePongProfessor
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Joined: 11/17/2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1528 |
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Posted: 02/23/2020 at 11:27pm |
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Like said by others - Practice/technique much more important than equipment. Pick any 5-ply All+/OFF- blade with limba outer veneers coupled with a set of modern inverted rubbers with a sponge hardness between 45-50 degrees and you will be fine. There is no reason to overthink this. Practice.
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doraemon
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Joined: 05/14/2007 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 1738 |
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Posted: 02/23/2020 at 11:36pm |
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Stratus Power Wood is a fast blade for player with limited training time. Violin is good for developing player as it is not that fast, but if you still can't control it, you can use classic rubbers such as Mark V. After you can control the ball well, you are welcome to try any tensors. EDIT: On second thought, Fastarc + Rosena are actually fine. You just need to practice more.
Edited by doraemon - 02/24/2020 at 1:45am |
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Blade : Just wood
FH : black rubber BH : red rubber |
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patelaaaa
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Joined: 07/31/2016 Location: Jupiter Status: Offline Points: 140 |
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Posted: 02/24/2020 at 3:13pm |
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Go with DHS H301. Its a 7 ply , but almost feels like all wood as the ALC is inner next to core. The blade has similar construction as of Viscaria but feeling it out of this world. Meaning, you can power loop when you are in position, also play a safe game when you are out of position.
I've been in a similar situation like you, with almost no loops on my FH. After experimenting with lot of equipment, I've zeroed in on H301 as it was forgiving, gave me confidence to improve on my technique especially on Forehand. Been playing with the same blade for almost 2 years now with different rubbers and satisfied enough with the control if offers.
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Baal
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Posted: 02/24/2020 at 4:29pm |
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Your equipment now is quite controllable. So no equipment change will make very much difference. I know it is tempting to look for that kind of solution, and pretty much everyone goes down that road at some point. But as someone who is been playing and teaching TT for decades, it is not the solution here. Stability will come with time, coaching, and the right kind of practice. With only 2 hrs a week you will make progress but the progress will be slow. That is just how it is when humans, especially adults, learn complex new motor tasks. If I could invent a way to markedly accelerate that, I would be a gazillionaire. (If you decide to go to a slower blade, the Appelgren Allplay would be a good choice).
Edited by Baal - 02/24/2020 at 4:31pm |
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BRS
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Posted: 02/24/2020 at 4:38pm |
Yeah, you and everyone else in the world. Equipment can't fix this. If Ma Long isn't paying attention and in position his ball doesn't land on the table either.
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BeaverMD
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Joined: 11/09/2007 Location: Maryland, USA Status: Offline Points: 1897 |
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Posted: 02/25/2020 at 8:23am |
I do agree with those that posted that you are re-lifting too much after your first loop. Correction of technique and practice (which you don't have much time for) can fix this but I do think there are also benefits to evaluating your equipment. I think the Tibhar Stratus Powerwood is already a controllable blade, much like the Korbel. But if you are losing points from serve returns, blocks, and pushes, maybe drop down one more notch to OFF- like the Ma Lin Soft Carbon or Stiga Offensive NCT. With a slower OFF- blade, you can still powerloop when necessary but control will be less of an issue. Usually, when a clubmate asks me if their blade is too fast, I ask them two questions: 1. Can you do a ghost serve consistently? 2. Can you do the down the line serve (like Waldner and LGL) consistently? If the answer to both are yes, I tell them to keep the blade. Good luck.
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SmackDAT
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Joined: 01/01/2012 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 2231 |
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Posted: 02/25/2020 at 3:56pm |
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Go for a Viscaria/TB ALC and call it done, blade for life
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garwor
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Posted: 02/26/2020 at 11:38am |
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Korbel is more fogiving for looping that stratus powerwood. Had both, sold stratus. Korbel produces higher arc.
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Yinhe MC-2 FL fh: Xiom Vega pro bh: Xiom Vega pro Boycott Marcos Freitas for hidden services! |
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Crowsfeather
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Posted: 02/27/2020 at 1:08am |
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I agree with above comment that your equipment is already perform well.
You can considered keeping them. To answer all of criteria you want with limit-time per week You might need more effective, planned training. 1 To be more stable with shots that are out of position Practice your legs and drills, a a few session can help improving this problem. Look for Self-coaching strategies from youtube sensei. 2 record your play and analyze. Or self recon when you lose a point. Why did i missed, why I failed to block that topspin, Fail to lift heavy back spin. Position? Racket angle? Too much power ? Too little power. Think and correct before its became your habit and you will fail to do that often and never able to correct those bad habit forever. 3 At home practice, improve muscle power, mirror practice, etc that you could do at home without going to court. Hope this help. |
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I'm no longer an EJ and I'm proud .
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pitigoi
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Posted: 03/05/2020 at 10:12am |
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I understand I am not answering the question in the title, and moreover I likely play under the level of the original poster. Just sharing my experience. Blocking/counter-hitting is my pride and joy, and I experienced with maybe 15 setups. I can give a trained 1800 a decent warm-up or footwork practice.
For both FH and BH, Rasant Grip on Stiga Allround NCT was best for me. I found active blocks easiest with a thicker (at least 6mm) blade, limba outer, no balsa, and rubber that is at least of medium hardness (45) with low throw. Soft rubbers and/or thin blades result in balls flying high unless you time your move just right. Now I am considering Dignics 64 as I am running out of Rasant Grip, and I have in stock six of the discontinued Allround NCT. For the OP: Tibhar Stratus Power Wood fits my criteria; Vega Europe is too soft and Vega Pro may have a too high throw. |
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Right hand: Stiga Allround NCT (74g) /Rasant Grip max/Talon OX red (total 135g)
Left hand, 2020-1: Stiga Allround WRB (67g)/Fastarc G-1 1.8mm/V11 > Extra max 158g Fitness Friendship Fun |
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max vdh wrote: