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Why do you add a layer of glue before boosting?

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TonyL View Drop Down
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    Posted: 03/31/2014 at 6:17am
I bought the Falco Booster, and looking at the tutorial, it said to apply a layer of glue before applying to booster.

Anyone know why this is? 

Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nikk64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/31/2014 at 6:43am
To slow adsorption of the oil solution in the sponge, and prolongs the action of tuning.Жест за одобрение
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LUCKYLOOP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/31/2014 at 6:51am
Originally posted by nikk64 nikk64 wrote:

To slow adsorption of the oil solution in the sponge, and prolongs the action of tuning.Жест за одобрение


Why not just add smaller amounts of oil with each layer ?

With a first layer of glue, doesn't this cause an uneven distribution of the oil booster ?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Imago Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/31/2014 at 6:56am
Directly boosting the sponge may cause unwanted results - bubbles, uneven distribution of oil, etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote channyboi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/31/2014 at 8:02am
I think this applies more to boosters like dian chi because it's like oily thick, but i have heard people doing it with falco too.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cole_ely Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/31/2014 at 8:54am
actually if a tuner was oily it would decrease the need for a buffer glue layer.  Tuners that are thinner solvent tend to go right through the sponge and into the area where the topsheet is glued on.  that's where the problems come.
 
I'm assuming these people are referring to rubber cement.  I would think water based would seal off the sponge completely, more or less.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger Stillabower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/31/2014 at 9:09am
For H3 non Neo I boost right on the sponge,but for a euro or jap I recommend over a thin glue layer to slow down the penetration. Just my own experience.      
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote suds79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/31/2014 at 9:19am
Originally posted by cole_ely cole_ely wrote:

actually if a tuner was oily it would decrease the need for a buffer glue layer.  Tuners that are thinner solvent tend to go right through the sponge and into the area where the topsheet is glued on.  that's where the problems come.
 
I'm assuming these people are referring to rubber cement.  I would think water based would seal off the sponge completely, more or less.

That's what I've been trying to figure out. I've always boosted my frienship rubbers with my Falco right on the sponge. Never had a problem. Done this several times.

I once got a bubble from boosting a sheet of H2. I don't know if it's a one time thing or if it's a DHS issue but I've thought ever since i saw that video, if I ever buy DHS again, I'll be sure to add glue.

Problem is that I glue with rubber cement for sponge stuff (so easy) and Tear Mender for my OX rubbers. Adding a layer of rubber cement before boosting won't help me. That slightly expands the sponge. And I would think Tear Mender would create a barrier based on how I see it work.

I don't know what glue to add. I'm thinking I'll just apply the booster directly on in a thin, thin layer.

But I'm taking suggestions if anybody has ideas.... Would diluting the falco with just a pinch of water make sense??


Edited by suds79 - 03/31/2014 at 9:20am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LUCKYLOOP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/31/2014 at 9:28am
Originally posted by suds79 suds79 wrote:

Originally posted by cole_ely cole_ely wrote:

actually if a tuner was oily it would decrease the need for a buffer glue layer.  Tuners that are thinner solvent tend to go right through the sponge and into the area where the topsheet is glued on.  that's where the problems come.
 

I'm assuming these people are referring to rubber cement.  I would think water based would seal off the sponge completely, more or less.


That's what I've been trying to figure out. I've always boosted my frienship rubbers with my Falco right on the sponge. Never had a problem. Done this several times.

I once got a bubble from boosting a sheet of H2. I don't know if it's a one time thing or if it's a DHS issue but I've thought ever since i saw that video, if I ever buy DHS again, I'll be sure to add glue.

Problem is that I glue with rubber cement for sponge stuff (so easy) and Tear Mender for my OX rubbers. Adding a layer of rubber cement before boosting won't help me. That slightly expands the sponge. And I would think Tear Mender would create a barrier based on how I see it work.

I don't know what glue to add. I'm thinking I'll just apply the booster directly on in a thin, thin layer.

But I'm taking suggestions if anybody has ideas.... Would diluting the falco with just a pinch of water make sense??



I tried it without glue by removing the rubber cement then applying, worked ok for me, put on in small layers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cole_ely Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/31/2014 at 9:34am
I don't know if diluting with water is going to help. If you were going to dilute, I'd think you'd have to use something like parafin oil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndySmith Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/31/2014 at 9:54am
Originally posted by cole_ely cole_ely wrote:

I'm assuming these people are referring to rubber cement.  I would think water based would seal off the sponge completely, more or less.


Nope - with a thin glue layer, Falco still penetrates. It just takes longer.

I did my boosting experiment without a WBG layer, and the dome took a week to come down (2 layers, Falco Long). The example in the video showing Falco Long use didn't seem to need so much time for the dome to relax, so I'm presuming that this was the difference. Next time I'm going to try the same process, but with a single layer of WBG.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lau_hb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/31/2014 at 3:28pm

I boosted this provincial,39 degree, h3 neo by putting a very thin layer of dhs 15 glue first.

The first two thin layers didn't make the rubber curl much at all.

Third layer seemed to go through the sponge much more, and made the rubber curl on itself like it usually does when you boost on the sponge.

This is result 12 hours after the third layer, the dome almost came all the way down and it would be very easy to glue the rubber right now, especially with a strong glue. 

Pinching the rubber, it feels about as soft as a T05, which is pretty decent to me. I'll post another comment when I see how it plays because right now it feels like a much better way for boosting. A lot less trouble and time lost waiting for the rubber to uncurl.

 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/31/2014 at 6:29pm
"boosted this provincial,39 degree, h3 neo by putting a very thin layer of dhs 15 glue first."

Lau_hb, 

Is this DHS glue water-based?


Edited by tom - 03/31/2014 at 6:32pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lau_hb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/31/2014 at 6:40pm
Yes it water-based, it's pretty thick, but I think it would do the same with any glue considering how thin the layer was.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ark8012 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/31/2014 at 8:29pm
I think you need to apply one layer of glue if the rubber is not a new one. The one layer of glue will help to melt or soften the old glue, so the booster could penetrate it. 


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