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Boosting MX-P Question

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DreiZ View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12/27/2015 at 9:33pm
So its getting close to 6 months of usage on my MX-P and since the rubber is peeling off the edges pretty far I want to reglue it and also try boosting.

Considering Falco Tempo Long since its available on TT11 for ~$25. I like their prices and they have plastic balls available too so I can order everything together.

Is it the same process for boosting MX-P as shown in this video?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5F3yzZ7yJ3Q

Another question is which glue should use with FTL + MX-P?

I have Nittaku FineZip but I found the bond is pretty weak. TT11 has a bottle of Stiga Optimizer Glue 150ml for a decent price, but I've never tried this glue.

Thanks






Main:
Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g
FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm

Chopper:
Stratus Power Defense 85g
FH: Hybrid K3 max
BH: Grass D.TecS 0.9mm

USATT: 1725
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slevin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote slevin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/27/2015 at 10:16pm
Haven't seen the video but:

I normally put a layer of FLT directly on old MXP sponge. Wait 24 hours. Then, put another layer. Then wait 4-5 days till dome subsides (you don't need it to be completely flat at all).

I glue to blade using Tearmender (which some say is the same glue as the one you use - yes it has a weak bond). 3 thin layers on blade and 3 thin layers on sponge.

Works like a charm.

In case I just need to revitalize 2 month old MX-P a bit, I put 1 layer of FLT instead of 2.

Hope this helps.
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DreiZ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DreiZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/27/2015 at 11:07pm
If its the same glue then I guess ill just use up the Finezip, I had to use 3 coats on the sponge before just to get an even layer and the sponge sucks up glue like no other.

Should I invest in a press or a couple of books will do the trick to get a good bond?



Edited by DreiZ - 12/27/2015 at 11:10pm
Main:
Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g
FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm

Chopper:
Stratus Power Defense 85g
FH: Hybrid K3 max
BH: Grass D.TecS 0.9mm

USATT: 1725
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote slevin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/27/2015 at 11:11pm
Oh yes, you can't glue without pressure. This glue takes time to develop a strong bond. So, after gluing, put this under a pile of books overnight. You don't need that much time under pressure (during the day, even 1 hour, flip blade around and then another hour should do) but don't play with blade, ideally for 24 hours after gluing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DreiZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2015 at 10:09am
Thanks slevin and fatt.

I'll try your method.
Will try to post results as well later
Main:
Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g
FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm

Chopper:
Stratus Power Defense 85g
FH: Hybrid K3 max
BH: Grass D.TecS 0.9mm

USATT: 1725
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DreiZ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DreiZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/14/2016 at 7:17pm
48hrs after 2nd layer of FTL. The dome is more pronounced in black MX-P.


Main:
Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g
FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm

Chopper:
Stratus Power Defense 85g
FH: Hybrid K3 max
BH: Grass D.TecS 0.9mm

USATT: 1725
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote simon_xuan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/14/2016 at 8:00pm
From what I read, some don't recommend pressing too hard on these porous cake sponge rubbers simply because the air or oil in these pores need to be held within. Too much pressing will force these sponge deformed. I don't have personal experience on this. But I refrain from pressing too hard on these sponges when gluing. Thoughts?
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DreiZ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DreiZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/14/2016 at 8:13pm
Originally posted by simon_xuan simon_xuan wrote:

From what I read, some don't recommend pressing too hard on these porous cake sponge rubbers simply because the air or oil in these pores need to be held within. Too much pressing will force these sponge deformed. I don't have personal experience on this. But I refrain from pressing too hard on these sponges when gluing. Thoughts?

that makes sense when rolling the rubber on the blade as well. I wont be using a press on it. Just a few books to keep an even amount of pressure.

Another thing I wondered how would these super porous sponges perform with lots of glue being used. I mean this thing sucks up glue like crazy, and when glue dries it fills those pores and would make the overall feel harder after numerous glue jobs?... Possibly?

Also it was impossible to remove the old glue from the sponge so I just boosted over it and will have to put bunch of layers of glue over the old. Hopefully it will even out the old glue layer.


Main:
Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g
FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm

Chopper:
Stratus Power Defense 85g
FH: Hybrid K3 max
BH: Grass D.TecS 0.9mm

USATT: 1725
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BH-Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/14/2016 at 10:37pm
Originally posted by DreiZ DreiZ wrote:

Originally posted by simon_xuan simon_xuan wrote:

From what I read, some don't recommend pressing too hard on these porous cake sponge rubbers simply because the air or oil in these pores need to be held within. Too much pressing will force these sponge deformed. I don't have personal experience on this. But I refrain from pressing too hard on these sponges when gluing. Thoughts?

that makes sense when rolling the rubber on the blade as well. I wont be using a press on it. Just a few books to keep an even amount of pressure.

Another thing I wondered how would these super porous sponges perform with lots of glue being used. I mean this thing sucks up glue like crazy, and when glue dries it fills those pores and would make the overall feel harder after numerous glue jobs?... Possibly?

Also it was impossible to remove the old glue from the sponge so I just boosted over it and will have to put bunch of layers of glue over the old. Hopefully it will even out the old glue layer.



One light to medium coat of oil and an hour is all it takes to soften up the glue on the sponge so you can use a rubber cutout and thumb to get rid of the slightly gooey mess... then get down and dirty with your Frankenstein experiment.
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DreiZ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DreiZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/15/2016 at 12:57pm
What type of oil are we talking about here BHMan?
Main:
Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g
FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm

Chopper:
Stratus Power Defense 85g
FH: Hybrid K3 max
BH: Grass D.TecS 0.9mm

USATT: 1725
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMonteiro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/15/2016 at 2:24pm
ESN rubbers are very easy to get overboosted.. When it happens, it plays too mushy, low throw..

In my experience, just one layer os booster (I use TRF) is enough.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Argothman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/15/2016 at 3:02pm
How does TRF compare to Seamoon/Kailin? I currently use Kailin, it revitalizes my old MXPs really well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMonteiro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/15/2016 at 3:52pm
Originally posted by Argothman Argothman wrote:

How does TRF compare to Seamoon/Kailin? I currently use Kailin, it revitalizes my old MXPs really well.


I had no experience with Seamon or Kailin. Only one time with Dianchi and it is stronger compared to TRF. One clubmate used Dianchi on ESN but he didn't like it. I think he put too much booster on it.

Comparing TRF and Falco (standard) I think both are near the same.. Just one layer on ESN or Tenergy and they are fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BH-Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/15/2016 at 4:12pm
Originally posted by DreiZ DreiZ wrote:

What type of oil are we talking about here BHMan?

Just about any oil will do as long as it is not motor oil.

If all you got handy is Baby Oil or Paraffin Oil, then have at it. A light medium coat of tuner is enough to enter the glue and soften it up within an hour. Sure, if there is a lot of glue on the sponge, it can get messy gooey, but there is not easy way to get rid of glue if it isn't perfectly the right consistency and elasticity.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nasche Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/08/2016 at 12:08am
I've tried boosting a MX-P with one medium coat of FLT. I was looking to get 1mm to adjust it to another blade and I got it plus a softer sponge with a more pleasant touch, I like it better this way. It's also a bit heavier, faster and easier to lift underspin.

Edited by Nasche - 06/10/2016 at 12:02am
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DreiZ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DreiZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/09/2016 at 2:02pm
Originally posted by Nasche Nasche wrote:

I've tried boosting a MX-P with one medium coat of FLT. I was looking to get 1mm to adjust it to another blade and I got it plus a softer sponge with a pleasant touch, I like it better this way. It's also a bit heavier, faster and easier to lift underspin.


I've boosted my older sheets of 2.2mm MXPs and they played very nice. Just abit too heavy for me. Going to try boosting my current 2.0mm sheets after they wear down abit. I don't like to boost new rubbers since booster effect seems much more noticeable when the rubber is 3-4months old.
Main:
Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g
FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm

Chopper:
Stratus Power Defense 85g
FH: Hybrid K3 max
BH: Grass D.TecS 0.9mm

USATT: 1725
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