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Chinese rubber; My experience! |
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Mahmood
Super Member Joined: 02/07/2012 Location: Iasi Status: Offline Points: 148 |
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Posted: 12/10/2012 at 2:31pm |
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After my first year playing table tennis competitively I decided to try a chinese rubber.
I had always wanted to use one, but the problem with my bank account, shipping costs and the waiting was a burden to me, until I found a site in my country that sells a range of chinese rubber (729, galaxy, dhs, etc... but non from the provincial ones). I placed the order after one of my teammates got 729 sniper 3. He let me try it and boy was it a real pleasure to play with. So I got myself 729 transcend, a red 2.0 thickness. My impressions: I really really regret that I didnt start playing TT with a chinese rubber, I would have saved so much time, effort and frustration. Its VERY controllable and VERY dynamic. 729 transcend is not a high-end/very high quality sheet but its too good for the price, ~12$. - Its not heavy and its not hard, not soft either. I think its as hard as M2. - Fast on strong smashes (WITHOUT over-throwing the ball like with euro/jap rubbers) and Slow on slow and short pushes or flips= dynamics (for me). - Extremely spiny, I would say even more than BlueFire/Tenergy. - Throw angle: It really depends on the way you use/hit the rubber. That means, because of the tackiness AND increased control, you REALLY can make the throw either high or low, not only that... Even the direction of the trajectory. - Sponge/TopSheet: as for 729transcend, its very tacky AND grippy,mid hardness. Sponge softer than the topsheet, it doesnt bottom out of direct hits. Me, being a fan of the new generation of TT players especially Ma Long and Zhang Jike, I usually try to play like them, smash like them. After playing with a chinese rubber it really was evident to me why Ma Long/Zhang Jike can be that offensive with this enormous control and why Mizutani and Ovtcharov cant compete with them (to some extent) because tenergy is way too fast and uncontrollable... But I am in no position to think I am right or not. The only problem I have gears. Being an ex-euro/jap rubber, I am used to play somehow lazy, meaning my blocks were the duty of the rubber rather than mine. I used to just place the paddle and rubber's activeness was enough to pop the ball back to the other side. With chinese rubbers its a totally different mentality, since they are tacky, slower/more control (and also may be hard) the ball the doesnt pop out on lazy blocks or pushes. Chinese rubbers really encourage you to play literally as active as the Chinese National Players are playing. Me, I love playing active, so it really suits my game... This might be a problem with an older player, or those with back problems. The statement of ''red chinese rubbers are less tacky than the black one'' is totally true If there is anything I would want to emphasize on is: Please stop thinking if you dont have a euro/jap expensive rubber you are not a good enough player or not scary enough. They are really fast even for international players. Give any chinese rubber a try and see for yourself... Do not choose the most expensive of all, just a humble good enough black rubber and witness how much control you will have over your shots, their directions, throw angle, spin, speed... I am saying in a friendly way, so please dont be offended. PS. Let this thread be for your first trial of chinese rubber impressions.
Edited by Mahmood - 12/10/2012 at 2:34pm |
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Bty Zhang Jike (fl 85gm)
FH: 729 transced (red max) BH: BlueFire M1 (black Max) |
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Anton Chigurh
Premier Member Joined: 09/15/2009 Status: Offline Points: 3962 |
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I must say that I agree with much of your experience.
Chinese rubbers are highly dynamic and allow a much more active game (which I prefer). To me, it's always telling of someone's technique when they complain that the rubbers are "crap" or "totally dead" etc. Especially considering that I used to be one of those people. Anyone who claims that there is no need to adapt one's stroke to Chinese rubbers, or that Chinese rubbers are "unplayable" without boosting/speed gluing simply haven't exploited such rubbers sufficiently with their technique, IMO. And now let the haters commence in flaming. |
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Neo H3 40D| Offensive S | Tenergy 80
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tpgh2k
Platinum Member Joined: 09/14/2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2103 |
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the flamming would be more effective with two layers of booster
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www.youtube.com/gsutabletennis
Timo Boll Spirit FL H3 Blue Sponge Black FH Tenergy 64 Red BH |
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NextLevel
Forum Moderator Joined: 12/15/2011 Location: Somewhere Good Status: Offline Points: 14845 |
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So far, so good - opinions are a good thing.
Depends on the player. Sometimes, you don't want to do something if you won't get rewarded, and some players will not swing if they aren't rewarded by Tenergy's catapult, while some players would prefer to provide all the catapult they need.
I told a 2200+ active chopper (whose max rating was 2400) that I prefer Chinese rubbers to European rubbers like Tenergy. He told me "They suit your current level/strokes - things change all the time." A 2100+ power attacker who I sold Juic 999 Turbo (my favorite Chinese rubber) told me that he liked it, but he preferred Tenergy for his stroke as his extremely closed strokes and loop drive style worked better with it.
So I think in a world where Timo Boll uses Tenergy and ZJKMa Ling are using boosted Hurricane, and both can play with me like I am the dirt under their fingernails, everyone has a right to say what they want and that you are the one trying to make a matter of personal choice a matter of objective cardinal ranking.
It's a matter of degree.
The real goal of your post - to invite such. Wait until you break 2000 - then comment again... that is my flame for the day!
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I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
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Fruit loop
Silver Member Joined: 05/14/2009 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 605 |
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I think you're missing the point on why people boost/glue. The main reason they do it is for the control and extra speed when you're not in position and can't take a full swing and use that technique to get the the power required.
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Timo Boll Spirit FL
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Anton Chigurh
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I think you're missing my point. If you, for the sake of argument, take my claim as true (i.e., Chinese rubbers are more dynamic--which I admittedly didn't explicate well) then in no way does it depend on the player. The physical makeup of a rubber and its characteristics exist independently of a given player's preferences. Therefore, if, for example, the characteristics of Chinese rubber do indeed allow a player to swing harder and get dangerous spin without the increased risk of going long (such as with many Euro/JPN rubbers) then it is undoubtedly true that Chinese rubbers facilitate a much more physical game. You can swing harder and be safer. I'm not sure what to say about your "reward" comment. If someone is swinging harder and not being rewarded, then something is wrong with their technique and not the rubber. Obviously catapult can enhance people's game. This is a good thing for high level players who are fighting for the tiniest of competitive advantages. This is bad for lower-to-middle level amateurs because they are depending on their equipment to do things for them that their technique should do. Equipment should only enhance already present sound technique. It should not hide weaknesses (if we're speaking of ideal development).
There is some confusion between correlation and causation here. Likely, his extremely closed strokes are a result of the equipment he uses. So to say he prefers Tenergy because it suits his stroke is the same as saying he formed his stroke the way he did because he likes to use Tenergy. This is a somewhat tangential issue, but it does hint at some of my "hidden agenda" in chiming in on this topic... which I will remain silent on for now. Nonetheless, I'm not sure what the point is (no offense). To be explicit: If a given rubber type has specific parameters of performance, these parameters exist outside of a person's preferences. If a person cannot fully exploit these parameters then the failure is in their technique to do so. It is an entirely separate question as to whether they should or should not alter their technique.
I did no such thing. I added "IMO" which is an acronym for "in my opinion". Honestly, I'm not remotely sure of where this statement is coming from.
So you're a mind reader? That is an impressive talent. I am jealous. Can this be taught? I'm kidding. No, it was not "to invite such". I have been a very active member of this forum for a long time (even when not displaying an obvious presence) and I have watched much of the Chinese vs. Euro Loop debate unfold, which inevitably made many references to the effect equipment had on the varying techniques. I have seen people overstate both sides of the argument. These overstatements have muddied the waters of understanding, unfortunately. In any case, my "flaming" reference was regarding my anticipation of specific members and their likely responses based on past experience.
That is a fair enough criticism. All I can say is that as I've improved the perspective I've hinted at today only gets truer and truer. This advance may take a bizarre turn at some critical moment in my development (assuming I even get to 2000... ever) but I think that would be a strange turn of events. Nonetheless, I remain open. |
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Neo H3 40D| Offensive S | Tenergy 80
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Anton Chigurh
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You've made a subtle and important point, IMO, but I would "argue" that it wasn't a point I was missing. I was simply referencing the reason many on this forum give for boosting Chinese rubbers: Namely, they claim it's too "dead" and too "slow". In other words, I think skilled players boost more for the reasons you mention. I think less-than-skilled players boost for different reasons... mainly because that is what they say in their own words, often times on this very forum. They cannot exploit the rubber fully. Instead of working on their technique they just assume Chinese rubbers suck unboosted. Then they resort to boosting and rationalize it away as, "Oh, the CNT does it so I guess I should too," even if the reasons are in reality completely different. Again, this is just my opinion. I'm just trying to make sense of my experience and observations and these are the tentative conclusions I've come to. |
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Neo H3 40D| Offensive S | Tenergy 80
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GoldenDragoon
Silver Member Joined: 01/09/2012 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 769 |
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Interesting thread.. I am doing a bit of EJing with eastern rubber ATM and there are definatley benefits to it.My FH is no question stronger with adjustments however my BH is not as good. I want to try a few more and see how it goes but I.think I.will stick with FH at least. I am also contemplating that my preference for stiff blades is a poor choice with chinese rubber....
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Blade: Nexy Spartacus FL 84g
FH: Evolution FX-P Max Blk BH: Evolution EL-P 1.9 Red |
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ohhgourami
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DING DING DING DING DING! |
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Custom Walnut 7-ply
DHS H3 Provincial untuned 40° BTY T64 210g |
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GeneralSpecific
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Blade - Xiom 36.5 ALX FL
Forehand - Xiom Omega V Asia 2.0mm Backhand - Victas Curl P5V with Der Materialspezialist Firestorm Soft/Outkill 1.8mm sponge |
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bernardgam
Super Member Joined: 10/16/2012 Status: Offline Points: 131 |
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I also used some chinese shake hand rubbers, such as DHS, Yinhe. It really great for my tabletennis level.
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Fruit loop
Silver Member Joined: 05/14/2009 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 605 |
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You're 100% correct. Sometimes i forgot that it's mytt that i'm posting on
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Timo Boll Spirit FL
Dr Evil ox both sides. |
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TTSweden
Member Joined: 04/02/2010 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Hi
All top players boost their rubbers, chinese tacky rubber without boost is to slow especially from midistance. I think that chinese rubbers is moore easy to control if you boost. all the best Peder
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All the best/ Peder
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NextLevel
Forum Moderator Joined: 12/15/2011 Location: Somewhere Good Status: Offline Points: 14845 |
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Anton,
I'm not so much missing your point as I am saying that you are overstating it in a way that reveals your personal biases and incites disagreement. Why must one do something with technique that one can do with equipment? So I should walk to school in old canvas rather than modern sneakers because I should improve my walking skills before getting better shoes? Too often, we assume that everyone needs to get better the same way. Since most of us are not going to be 2000+ players, letting everyone find his or her path within the common sense boundaries of winning and losing is not as silly as it sounds without making it sound like your path is the holy grail while the path of others is the road to perdition. Reminds me of people who think that the only valid way of playing table tennis is two-winged looping. The only skill required universally to play table tennis is the ability to read the spin imparted to the ball. After that, how one plays is up to one's goals, limitations etc. You seem to be mind-reading quite a bit without actually asking people for their opinions or watching them before forming opinions. Using any old school or hard Chinese rubber unboosted/untuned makes it harder to generate mechanical spin and not everyone can or wants to swing hard at the ball all the time for health reasons among other things. Just that by itself could be a reason to choose softer European style rubbers for some people. In addition, some players prefer soft contact with the ball with more dwell time while others prefer hard contact - these are all issues that relate to what kind of rubber you might prefer, what your short game is like etc. To simply make it a case of technical limitations based on rating is pretty parochial. One may just as well argue that short pips, which are the extreme end of what Chinese rubbers were derived from (hard contact, surface spin, hitting game) are the best way to start off one's game.
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I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
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Anton Chigurh
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I think you are taking this a bit personally. I never said anyone had to or should do anything. You are (presumably unintentionally) missing almost all of my points (again, no offense). Or perhaps you're reading way too much into them. Since I've already written a lot in this thread I'm not inclined to try again. So I guess we'll have to "agree to disagree". Or more adequately, agree to be misunderstood by each other, I suppose. EDIT: In one final attempt to clarify the discussion: I'm talking about physical parameters of a rubber and the kinesics involved in exploiting those parameters. You are talking about personal preferences, game strategies, etc. These are two different discussions (though obviously not entirely separable). In other words, the question of whether one can maximize hard, tacky rubbers via their technique (what I'm discussing) is a totally different question than whether one should change their technique in an attempt to do the former (what you're discussing). If someone cannot fairly consistently generate a quality shot using hard, tacky rubber then the fault lies with their technique and not the rubber. There simply is no way around this fact. (Granted, the same rubbers might need slight modification at the highest levels of competition... but that affects the upper 0.01% of this forum.) But in any case, this is not to say that all people SHOULD switch to hard, tacky rubbers and compulsively attempt to modify their technique. But those people probably also shouldn't get on MYTT and whine about "dead", "crappy" rubbers. Edited by Anton Chigurh - 12/11/2012 at 2:41am |
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Neo H3 40D| Offensive S | Tenergy 80
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racquetsforsale
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I think Anton was saying that some people unjustly criticize Chinese rubbers for their supposed poor performance, rather than realizing or admitting that they just don't have the technique to use them.
There's nothing wrong with choosing the equipment that allows one to play his best. It's another to go around professing that the main reason why Chinese rubbers are difficult to use is because they need to be boosted or tuned.
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Anton Chigurh
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Thank you, sir, for understanding me. |
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Neo H3 40D| Offensive S | Tenergy 80
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smackman
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The thing is 99 % of the table tennis World using Chinese rubbers most are fine out of the packet
also we are not Chinese National level players training 25 hours per week with the best coaches and best facilities etc Just keep them clean and against plastic when not in use
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Ulmo Duality,Donic BlueGrip C2 red max ,Yinhe Super Kim Ox Black
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NextLevel
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What he omits is that most people who make this claim are talking about hard sponged chinese rubbers with tacky topsheets. Most people who make these claims are not thinking Gambler Outlaw or TopEnergy soft. They are thinking Globe 999 or Hurricane with hard sponge. Try to use to counterloop and see what happens. For a close to the table hitting/countering game, they work pretty well.
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I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
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NextLevel
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I actually think you are but that is besides the point. I started out using Chinese rubbers and would still use them today without hesitation if not for certain physical limitations.
I disagree because you have not addressed what about the technique is wrong but I have tried to explain why it is not purely a technique issue. Most people who complain about hard Chinese rubbers are talking about the difficulty of consistently generating mechanical spin - in this regard, Chinese rubbers are "crappy" and "dead". as long as you admit this, we are on the same page. Bounciness (liveliness) is measure of sponge/topsheet distortion. Since you admittedly swing hard and may enjoy brush looping, you may not find the technical limitations of unboosted Chinese rubbers to be real. But for people who would like to engage the sponge on strokes, it is possible for a rubber to be too dead because the sponge is not engaged enough, without regard to whether catapult is the issue or not. Boosting/tuning help solve the issue by improving mechanical spin.
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I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
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Anton Chigurh
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I "omit" it because I assumed that when I use the words "hard and tacky" we all know what that means. Gambler Outlaw is neither so I didn't feel the need to explicitly exclude it. TopENERGY Soft is admittedly quicker (presumably factory tuned), but that is not the entire realm of my experience just because I was excited about it for a while. I can (and do) successfully use Hurricane in counter top spin rallies away from the table, as do other people I know. In fact, an old playing partner (this kid right here, an ex-provincial team player and currently rated 2452) used untuned Hurricane 3 up until the last time I saw him a few months ago. He definitely didn't have any problems in counter top spin rallies. |
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Neo H3 40D| Offensive S | Tenergy 80
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racquetsforsale
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I've hit with someone else's Globe 999, and I admit that I felt it gave me absolutely nothing. In fact, it took.
I have looped and counterlooped with others' commercial H3, TG3, and my own TG2. I didn't find it difficult. In fact, I felt the H3 and TG3 were a bit too fast and had too much power, hence settling for the slower TG2. Who knows, those H3 and TG3 might have been boosted. I've even tried an old sheet of H2 on a PH4. Sponge was very firm. Also a bit too fast for my liking. |
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NextLevel
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There is no video of the "kid" so no one can discern independently whether to agree with you or not. I hope you don't consider 5 ft to be away from the table.
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I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
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Anton Chigurh
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I'm getting tired so after this post I'm going to bed. To me the only thing that is relevant is if you can get the ball to do what you want. For an attacking topspin shot, we presumably want the ball to go forward, fast, with a lot of spin. Some people claim that hard tacky rubbers cannot do that well. I'm saying that is wrong, and if someone has trouble using hard, tacky rubbers to create a ball that moves forward, fast, with a lot of spin then the problem lies in their technique and not in the rubber. Period. Parsing it further into people's desire to create mechanical spin or what-have-you is irrelevant in my mind. Can you (not you personally) create wicked, killer top spin loops/drives with hard, tacky Chinese rubbers? If not, fine. But it's not the rubber's fault. That's "The End" as far as I'm concerned. But this is an entirely separate question than what kind of equipment one should use, or what kind of game one should play, or what kind of physical limitations one has, etc. Edited by Anton Chigurh - 12/11/2012 at 4:08am |
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Neo H3 40D| Offensive S | Tenergy 80
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Anton Chigurh
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I didn't intend to post a vid. I was just trying to provide a (pitiful) modicum of evidence by providing a specific name rather than just saying "this guy I know". Obviously I could have randomly picked a name from that list so it's weak evidence. But if you look up the same person's name on the USATT ratings site you'll see he used to be in Oregon not long ago, which is where I am. Anyway... No, I don't consider 5 ft to be far away from the table. However, your definition of "far" may be further than mine, admittedly, and I would concede that hard, tacky rubbers may not be as useful as other rubbers from an extreme distance. But I would also argue that, unless you're a chopper, consistently finding oneself at extreme distances from the table is a disadvantage less correlated with equipment. But that's another discussion altogether. |
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stefashka
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I see that people using Euro/Japanese rubbers have problems counterlooping against me - many times they miss the ball or make erroneous shots as the ball often dips earlier because of the spin, I experience some problems with counterlooping only if I don't move back from the table, but it's definitely not the rubber problem. On the other side, I feel that hitting is the weakest part of the classic Chinese rubbers exactly because of their hardness (so it's difficult to control direction when hitting flat). Maybe I am doing something wrong?
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Imago
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Exactly, flatt hitting is problem with H2 as well as adjusting the precise brush angle - in this sense H2 is unforgiving and requires basic training with qualified coach from the very start. |
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Mahmood
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I think the problem of this discussion is the extensive usage of the word ''problem''
The summery of what the guys are trying to explain is simply about technique/equipment and their relation to being superior/producing a better game. - I think the selection of either euro/jap or chinese rubber depends TOTALLY on technique. Anton was accompanying the world problem with technique more than once, thus NextLevel was misunderstanding. - Technique can be affected by many factors, physical limitations, personal taste, your fav player, etc. - Rubbers: -Euro/Jap rubber are more active, more responsive, softer (to an extend) and faster. These characteristics allow the player to be more tricky and more variant with a lot of gears, and just because of these characteristics they are not very constant, because you need to be very attentive to each hit you make... That only if you wanna stand out and be the best there is (I am not talking about a normal player, playing for fun). The best example I would say is JO Waldner and Karakasevic. Their shots and trickery are different from a game to another, very amusing and fun to watch but still they do miss a lot of balls in the course of doing so. Aggressive full body motion is not needed because the rubber is already active. - Chinese rubbers: are simpler, slower, more control and maybe harder. These characteristics allow the player to be more consistent even with continues attacks, but with a limited (lesser that euro/jap) range of trickery... Yet dynamic= fast on fast swings, slow on slow shots. Best examples are Ma Long and Zhang Jike. Their game is not trickiest of all, but very constant, and on the competing levels consistency is more important and more winning. Aggressive full body motion is needed to excrete the best out of the rubber. In comparison, non of the two types can claim to be the dominant. If you are able to tame euro/jap rubbers with control and consistency, or if you can swing hard enough then you are already a good player. So it all comes down to what the player prefers and how he/she uses the rubber... Me, personally I like very much to move, swing hard and smash, I tried both and found that I miss less shots with Chinese rubbers. Finally, there is no ''problem'' with either of techniques (active of less active), neither is there any ''problem'' with any of the two rubbers (active or less active). If a player doesn't like Chinese rubbers because they are tiring and too requesting, shouldn't address it as being bad, dead or crappy. Just simply say ''I prefer the other type'' or ''my technique reuqires the other type. EDIT: A guy with a wide feet cannot claim to be a better rubber than a guy with narrow feet. Its HOW you run that makes the winner, not the type of the feet!
Edited by Mahmood - 12/11/2012 at 6:19am |
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Bty Zhang Jike (fl 85gm)
FH: 729 transced (red max) BH: BlueFire M1 (black Max) |
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NextLevel
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Do you use your rubbers unboosted/untuned? Again, the discussion is about untuned rubbers.
I definitely do not mean flat hitting - I mean hitting as in close to the table driving. Flat-hitting in my experience has been easier when I engage the sponge so I agree with you. In fact, that is part of the problem with Anton's claim that "Chinese rubbers allow you to swing harder without the risk of going long" - it depends on the stroke and how the sponge is engaged.
The other issue is the amount of energy required to counterloop with Chinese rubbers. Not everyone wants to take full swings at the ball. Bad technique has its advantages. Edited by NextLevel - 12/11/2012 at 7:17am |
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I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
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alborz
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i don't think that chinese rubbers are better than euro/jap. i have a Dhs hurricane 2 neo and it was to tacky , my counter loops and smashes don't have enough power (maybe because of my blade) and it was not enough control able . now i am using bluefire M1 and i can easily counter loop smash and block but i can't generate so much spin like hurricane 2 neo. totally i think euro/jap rubbers are better than the chinese ones.
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Balde : Donic Epox Control
Forehand : Donic BlueFire M1 (Black / MAX) Backhand : Donic Vario Big Slam (Red / MAX) Zhang Jike : Man Of Steel |
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