Super Priming and gluing guide

For anyone that might be interested, a friend (LawOCG, known as 'penguin' on this forum) and myself wrote a gluing guide, particularly on how to prime to get the most out of your rubbers. The article is here:

Super Priming and gluing guide

Result have been quite impressive. Any comments very much appreciated.

Thanks you jcdi, although penguin deserves more of the credit for this guide than I do.

We've been treating the EEII as a seperate case, but I'm sure it could easily be combined or made part of this procedure. As you're probably aware, the EEII enhances speed glue effect as well as expanding the sponge, so it could perhaps be used as an alternative to some of the steps used in the Super Priming. Similarly I've been looking at the Falco glue. These are both discussed in details on the same site and forum.

I'm sure priming enhances the tensor type rubbers too, but great care needs to be taken not to stretch the sheets too much. I have no doubt that a few layers of glue enhances every rubber's performance.

Generally hinoki is quite a physically tough wood (in terms of TT). Its fibers are quite condensed and there are no gaps. Hinoki is much less prone to splintering and rarely ever does it need sealing.

The only time I would recommend sealing it is when the Hinoki ply is extremely thin. Eg on some galaxy blades especially the T series, it can be quite thin. So its better to take a precaution with those and seal them.

For long pips it will have an effect, but it's nowhere as significant as for an inverted rubber, coz the sponge is just too thin. I speed glued my long pips before, but did not see any significant benefit....

For short pips it should work fine...

Yes that is an effective way of speed gluing, but the method described here is for treating a rubber to give it a 'permanent' effect.

Anyway it's prolly not a good idea to muck around with plasma, bryce and F1.