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Wood Sealing

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zchao93 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zchao93 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/23/2008 at 6:30pm
do u only need to seal the edges for 1 ply blades?? or is it good to seal for all blades?
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7plywood View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 7plywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/23/2008 at 10:41pm
Originally posted by zchao93 zchao93 wrote:

do u only need to seal the edges for 1 ply blades?? or is it good to seal for all blades?
Good for all. Additional protection + if you put a side tape for even more edge protection it will not peel off the wood.
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timtabletennis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote timtabletennis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2008 at 12:06am
Guys,

Thanks for the help. Another thing I want to share with you guys about using the mini wax quick dry clean. Yesterday I went to the hardware store and got myself one. I used it to on my DHS dipper blade by following Tommyzai suggestion. I notice that the edge wood where the edge tape will go on it has change color. Is this what you guys experience too?




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pongmaster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2008 at 12:44am
Originally posted by liXiao liXiao wrote:

I asked Butterflyonline.com about wood sealing (IT WAS A FEATURED QUESTION) and Richard McAfee said he doesn't like blade sealing.

haha, i saw that question
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2008 at 2:45am
Does Richard say why he does not like it? Has he sealed any himself?Question
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2008 at 2:48am
Hi Tim,
     Almost any wood when a finish is applied will go a "little" darker. If you used the clear, there should not have been much change. The other possibility is is dissolved some of the glue before it dried again. I have not noticed any real change in the wood color. Dark woods and the carbon layer get brighter.Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2008 at 12:20pm
I sealed all of my blades (and some others) - about 10 of them all in all - and I highly recommend it.

Be prepared, however, that with light sealing it still won't 100% guarantee that wood won't chip off - my spare Galaxy T-4 had a tiny chip fall off after the very first re-gluing despite my sealing. So it depends on how thick the outer layers of wood are, how good is the craftsmanship etc.

For 1-ply blades sealing off the edges (heavily) is the must - however, it will stil not save you if you heavily bump it on the table. Perhaps you should also use a thicker edge tape (like this one, for instance,  http://www.paddlepalace.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MUTA)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2008 at 12:28pm
I don't think sealing is an option . . . it's a must. The only question is what to use and how much. I recently double sealed a Stiga Offensive Classic CR and when I removed the glue it still pulled up a little bit of the sealant and the painted sporty line that was underneath. it didn't pull up any wood, but still. I'm going back to triple sealing, especially on those Stigas!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2008 at 2:31pm
The Stiga Oversize needs at least 3 coats. The top splinters badly, especially with glue sheets.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anixon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2008 at 6:20pm
What's a good spray sealant? Call me lazy but i'm getting tired of rubbing on the PolyU.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2008 at 7:40pm
PolyU spray can.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote timtabletennis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2008 at 11:44pm
Hookshot,

Thanks for the answer.........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shihjye Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/25/2008 at 12:11am
how would you apply the spray? just literally spray it on? will it be even?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THEMANFZ1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/25/2008 at 12:24am
Minwax makes a good polyurethane spray that has a really good nozzle.  It diffuses the polyurethane really well and allows you to get smooth coats.  For even or flat spraying what you can do is get a 3/8in square dowel, or box/book of matches, even a pen and put the paddle on a flat surface with the dowel, matches, or pen under the top of the blade so that it lays flat.  As you know when you lay your paddle down it lays at a slant due to the thickness of the handle all you are doing is taking out the slant of the paddle so that the polyurethane does not run to the edge this will ensure that you get a more even disbursement of polyurethane over the blade.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/25/2008 at 12:36am
Minwax Quick Dry Poly U spray cans give a very nice spray pattern. If you hold the can about 12 inches from the blade, it will give a very nice even finish. When you spray, you should have the can moving and spraying as it comes across the blade. Don't point at the blade and push the button. That will get a heavy spot. Just sweep it across the blade, stop off the blade and go back the other way. Always have it moving when spraying the blade. I use masking tape to mask off the handle. I dont like the feel of finish on the handles. Don't mask the little wings by the handle. With sealing, they won't get dirty anymore. To let it dry, rig a way to hold it by the handle so the blade is "FLAT". Then you will not get any runs, no matter how thick you put it on.
Some of the blades I have done, I have 10 coats and the finish looks like a high priced table top. About as smooth as you can get.
Just a light spray with Poly will do the job and if you keep it moving, it will be an even finish.
If the blade has seen glue before, (not new) wipe the blade very well with alcohol and let it dry well before using the poly. The wood will have glue reminents left untill you clean it. A new blade does not need cleaning. Only one blade ever gave me any problem. The Willpower has something in the finish that refuses to let the poly dry.
My favorite finish is "Minwax Quick Dry Poly U Clear" Satin finish works well also.Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hookshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/25/2008 at 12:44am
Good tip theman, you type faster than I do. LOL
Most hinoki only need a light coat of sealer. Hinoki does not splinter much like some other woods. A light coat also keeps the logo from disappering. That will not change the way the blade feels or plays. The edges can be sealed with several coats to lock the fibers in. The hinoki just shows dirt and oils from your hands more than darker woods. Seal all but the handle itself.Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THEMANFZ1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/25/2008 at 2:41am
Haha,  you gave more info on the spraying technique.  I took for granted that he knew how to spray left to right in a continuous motion.  Or right to left, for that matter.  Just not up and down unless you adjust the nozzle, but who really sprays up and down anyway?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chronos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/27/2008 at 12:26am
I did exactly what you guys described - picked up varathane satin water-based sealer.  I have this handmade Visse blade - balsa center ply, cherry, then cedar outer ply.  Blade was pretty utilitarian to begin with, and took some scrapes along the way, plus that outer ply is quite soft and at risk of splintering.  I started with 400 grit sandpaper down to the finest stuff I could get, and after sanding the edges and handle till they were silky smooth, and some very light sanding of the faces, did one layer of varathane on each face, sanded it down, a second layer, sanded, 4 around the edges, and a bit on the handle as well.  The blade looks fantastic, the pics don't do it justice.  Not only are the edges protected, it really brings out the color of the cherry, honestly its better looking than when I got it, and more robust.  Having done this I realize how unfinished commercial blades really are.  Thanks so much for the tips guys!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aeoliah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/27/2008 at 12:56am
It does look really good. Well done Chronos !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THEMANFZ1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/27/2008 at 4:51am
Yeah that looks great Chronos.  You can also add dyes to laquer finishes and really make the color pop or even add color but thats a whole other subject.  Glad I could help.(that was some what narcissistic to think that you were thanking me wasn't it)  Well.....I hope I helped.  haha. Looks great either way.
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