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kindof99 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 01/24/2018 at 11:31pm
For the current trend of close table play, Violin is becoming very suitable.

Acoustic is just another 5 ply wood blade, but violin is special. It's low and somehow flat curve can cause trouble for return. And violin can create heavy backspin in serves.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketman222 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/24/2018 at 7:33pm
I think a lot of pros moved to using 7-ply blades of the clipper class, than composites.

Definitely that class of blades is most suited for the plastic ball.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote slevin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/24/2018 at 6:46pm
I think with plastic balls, both of these blades were overshadowed as pros that used Acoustic / other all-wood started moving to composites (like Carbonado 45 or Viscaria) to get some added pace.

However, the arrival of these new generation of rubbers with ultramax sponges have changed  that. I have tried playing with a few of these and you get crazy large arcs with long trajectories (as if I had dipped my blade into a bucket of speed glue before playing).

Now, I think a great combination for some to try would be Acoustic or Violin with one of these rubbers in ultramax thickness (Xiom Omega 7 pro / europe, Joola Rhyzer 48, Tibhar Aurus Prime, Donic Bluestorm Z1 / Z2, Rasanter R47 ultramax). You get same speed as with composite and old-style max (2.1mm) but with new crazy spin and better feel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote arg0 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/21/2018 at 6:37pm
Originally posted by Dream1700 Dream1700 wrote:

best to ask a chemist-friend (if available) to run mass spectrometry analysis on a piece of blade. the approach should be able to detect if animal collagen is present (likely component in hide glue). it may even tell you the type of animal that was used.

Hm, not sure how mass spectrometery works in practice, but I suppose this would still involve sacrificing at least part of a blade to extract a sample of the glue. If not, I'd gladly ship a Violin to someone with an available "chemist-friend".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Basquests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/20/2018 at 7:57pm
Originally posted by Halon X Halon X wrote:

What is good backhand rubber for Acoustic Carbon Inner? 
I will put Hurricane Pro3 Turbo Orange as FH... should I wait for Omega VII pro (what I read it is lightweight) to balance it


I have OV:T on mine. That worked well on my normal acoustic. 

I got an AC Inner like you on the black friday sales in late november, same OV:T but I was overseas for a month and a half so i didnt get to use it, and did my ankle ligaments coming back. Will try remember to post how I find it when I do get better in the next 6-7 weeks (hopefully!)



Edited by Basquests - 01/20/2018 at 7:58pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dream1700 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/19/2018 at 11:16pm
best to ask a chemist-friend (if available) to run mass spectrometry analysis on a piece of blade. the approach should be able to detect if animal collagen is present (likely component in hide glue). it may even tell you the type of animal that was used.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Halon X Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/19/2018 at 10:14pm
What is good backhand rubber for Acoustic Carbon Inner? 
I will put Hurricane Pro3 Turbo Orange as FH... should I wait for Omega VII pro (what I read it is lightweight) to balance it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jolan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/19/2018 at 8:44pm
Originally posted by sanwei2018 sanwei2018 wrote:

What best rubber for violin blade? I am an offensive player
Thanks


We found out that fastarc P1 makes a perfect match with Violin.
Kong Linghui premium ST
Xiom Omega VII europe
DHS H3-50 mid 2.1mm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sanwei2018 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/18/2018 at 9:32pm
What best rubber for violin blade? I am an offensive player
Thanks
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arg0 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote arg0 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/18/2018 at 6:19pm
Originally posted by fatt fatt wrote:

wow you are not kidding are you? Big smile congrats on the hide glue experiment. 
are you in blade production mode? yay, you can do it! let's see who comes first, you or jpenmaster Tongue[...]

Not kidding, but I'm not planning to build my own blades. I just want to know the truth about Violins and hide glue.
It would be safer to start with Violin Carbon (the carbon layers are most certainly not glued with hide glue, as it does not stick to composite fibres), but there's a chance that the intermediate layers are glued to the core with hide glue, so I won't do this to my Violin Carbon either... at least not before I have finished testing it. LOL
But if I tried, and it resisted heating up to 55-60C, we would still not know whether the original Violin is glued with hide glue. But at least the VC would not have been harmed.
Nexy Arche & Nittaku Violin LG.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aeoliah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/16/2018 at 7:54pm
Acoustic has limba outer, Violin has White Ash outer.
Member of the Single Ply Hinoki Club
Soulspin Roots Zylon Carbon Speed 9, Acuda P2 max.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kindof99 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/16/2018 at 1:06am
It was said that Acoustic is a improved violin. But the wood structure is totally different. Acoustic does not have ash top layer, right?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Halon X Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/16/2018 at 12:16am
Hi I would like to join this clan if not to late :)

My Violin LG FL and Acoustic Carbon Inner LG FL will arrive soon

I also would like to ask if you also seal the handle of Violin and Acoustic?
Is orange oil safe to use for sealing the handle? 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/29/2017 at 4:33pm
wow you are not kidding are you? Big smile congrats on the hide glue experiment. 

are you in blade production mode? yay, you can do it! let's see who comes first, you or jpenmaster Tongue

for his typical 5-ply all wood, borko uses a balsa core, black walnut miedial and maple outer plies. 
there are different densities in balsa, up to 20+lb /cu.ft; chosing it among the hardest seems reasonable to me. This is just a suggestion in case you want a formula that has proven right.
GradeUltra LightLightLight MediumMediumMedium HardHard
Density in
lb/cu.ft
4-5.45.5-6.06.1-7.57.6-9.59.6-1214 +


Edited by fatt - 10/29/2017 at 4:39pm

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arg0 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote arg0 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/28/2017 at 3:33pm
fatt, JoeB,
thanks. I finally repaired my Violin using hide glue. Real hide glue, not liquid hide glue. It was not straightforward, and I had to do some tests on some scrap pieces of wood until I got the viscosity and the speed right, but I learned a lot.

All,
to finally answer the question of whether Nittaku use hide glue for their strings series blades, I plan to get one and heat it up to 55-60 C: if there's hide glue, it will melt, the layers will detach, and the blade will be wrecked. For obvious reasons I'm not willing to do this with my Violins.
So I'm looking for an Acoustic, Violin, Tenor, or Vio(lo)ncello in poor, very poor, or broken condition.
If you have one, let me know via PM. Blade must be original: ideally, you have proof of purchase from a reliable shop.

If you want to know, too, and want to contribute, you may toss me a few bucks via PayPal. I will then get an original blade from an official Nittaku reseller for the test. If the blade does not come apart, I will sell it and return the money.


Edited by arg0 - 10/28/2017 at 3:51pm
Nexy Arche & Nittaku Violin LG.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kolev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/21/2017 at 3:30am
The reason I didn't buy me an Acoustic was the popular opinion that the blade is head heavy. Recently I bought a Latika FL and although people were saying it is head heavy as well I found it to be reasonable with Aeolus(very heavy) and T64. BTW this blade is maybe the best in a period of extensive testing and EJ'ing. Simply love it
4x Hallmark Carbon Extreme
FH: TG3 NEO, Thors
BH: any fast and light rubber
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonyer1980 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/21/2017 at 1:59am
after my comeback to Acoustic I realized why I quit using using it. It's quite head heavy and I don't like the gap at your hand grabbing the handle.

My RWV has exactly  the same weight but the master handle is way better and feels more balanced.

Those that own Acoustic L-Size, how's the shape of FL L-Size handle? Is it's squarish or rounded type? Has it got the same issue being so head heavy?


Edited by jonyer1980 - 10/21/2017 at 2:06am
Nittaku Acoustic FL

Thibar MX-P MAX FH

Thibar FX-S BH


Avoid any Butterfly stuff... at abusive prices. Raw power without control means nothing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/03/2017 at 10:15am
Yesterday night I tested a vega tour with omega v Asia 2.0 fh and rasanter r47 bh. I needed 5 games v. a strong 1800 friend I beat 3-0 last time with the violin + r47 2.0 x2. Then I went back with that violin setup and played a strong 2k, won 3-1 after leading 2-0. The opening loop is the best that setup does while I was not often too long like the match before.
The spin of r47 on a flexy 5-ply is phenomenal and we're talking about rubbers that are 2.5 months! BEST COMBO EVER!!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gekogark1212 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/01/2017 at 9:24pm
I took two sets off someone 300 rating points above me with violin and R47
(\__/)
(='.'=) But there's no sense crying over every mistake,
(")_(") You just keep on trying till you run out of cake.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/01/2017 at 8:42pm
Originally posted by jonyer1980 jonyer1980 wrote:

Originally posted by fatt fatt wrote:

Originally posted by jonyer1980 jonyer1980 wrote:

Well I'm back to this club after 5 years in a row playing with Rosewood V. 
I was trying my spare acoustic for a while the other day and immediately felt in love with it. It's almost as fast a RWV but way easier to control, specially for short game, so now I'm able to land on the table a few balls more than before, and my overall game is more balanced right now. Maybe I don't have the raw power as before, but its a wiser choice for anyone that can't train more than 4h a week.
very well said. Best tribute to the nittaku violin ever. I have 2 and won't sell them because I'll buy some more in a year like I've done 5 or 6 times already. It's my home blade I come back to when in doubt. So much spin, control, the blocking and short game are divine while not being slow from mid distance: no 5-ply all wood can compete with it.
 

I meant Acoustic, not Violin  .

I loved violin before the glue ban, I would surely keep using it if I could speed glue or add some boosters but I feel it's kinda slow for modern power loopers
oops Confused

Originally posted by jonyer1980 jonyer1980 wrote:

Mid-hard rubbers will be nice on Acoustic since it´s quite soft blade.

I tried an Omega V Asia 2.0 on a Vega Tour and I would expect that rubber to fit the acoustic perfectly; next is to slap it on a violin: on the fh it might be better than rasanter r47; actually on any blade as far as my (perception of) technique is concerned.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonyer1980 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/01/2017 at 5:27pm
Mid-hard rubbers will be nice on Acoustic since it´s quite soft blade.
Nittaku Acoustic FL

Thibar MX-P MAX FH

Thibar FX-S BH


Avoid any Butterfly stuff... at abusive prices. Raw power without control means nothing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpenmaster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/01/2017 at 1:13pm
I am using Tenergy 80
Mizutani ZLC/T05
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/01/2017 at 11:03am
Can you guys tell me what rubbers you are using on your Acoustic Carbon blade?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonyer1980 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/30/2017 at 6:33pm
Originally posted by fatt fatt wrote:

Originally posted by jonyer1980 jonyer1980 wrote:

Well I'm back to this club after 5 years in a row playing with Rosewood V.
I was trying my spare acoustic for a while the other day and immediately felt in love with it. It's almost as fast a RWV but way easier to control, specially for short game, so now I'm able to land on the table a few balls more than before, and my overall game is more balanced right now. Maybe I don't have the raw power as before, but its a wiser choice for anyone that can't train more than 4h a week.
very well said. Best tribute to the nittaku violin ever. I have 2 and won't sell them because I'll buy some more in a year like I've done 5 or 6 times already. It's my home blade I come back to when in doubt. So much spin, control, the blocking and short game are divine while not being slow from mid distance: no 5-ply all wood can compete with it.


I meant Acoustic, not Violin .

I loved violin before the glue ban, I would surely keep using it if I could speed glue or add some boosters but I feel it's kinda slow for modern power loopers
Nittaku Acoustic FL

Thibar MX-P MAX FH

Thibar FX-S BH


Avoid any Butterfly stuff... at abusive prices. Raw power without control means nothing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/30/2017 at 1:09pm
I would strongly endorse Elmer's Professional Wood glue. I have used it on handle and other blade repairs with great results.  The bond will be stronger than the original wood itself.  Joe
Joe B     Nittaku S-5
              OSP Virtuoso S

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/30/2017 at 12:44pm
Originally posted by arg0 arg0 wrote:

Just in case you wonder whether Violin has a milled handle or not... it does. At least the LG version.
Yesterday my Violin slipped out of my hand and dropped to the floor while I was collecting it from the table and one handle part broke off. Just so. It must have fallen on a tsubo, as I never thought that a handle may come off so easily.

Now I wonder what glue I should use to glue the parts back together. Though there is no evidence that Nittaku actually uses hide glue for their strings series (see my previous posts), I would still be more comfortable in using hide glue than others, just in case.

However, since using real hide glue is cumbersome and I never did before, I thought of maybe getting some Titebond Liquid Hide Glue, instead. Any advice?
(Note: I know I have to sand the surfaces, prior to applying glue.)




sorry to hear that. Tidebond liquid hide glue will be close enough, don't sweat it just do it, you'll feel proud to make it work again.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/30/2017 at 12:42pm
Originally posted by jonyer1980 jonyer1980 wrote:

Well I'm back to this club after 5 years in a row playing with Rosewood V.
I was trying my spare acoustic for a while the other day and immediately felt in love with it. It's almost as fast a RWV but way easier to control, specially for short game, so now I'm able to land on the table a few balls more than before, and my overall game is more balanced right now. Maybe I don't have the raw power as before, but its a wiser choice for anyone that can't train more than 4h a week.
very well said. Best tribute to the nittaku violin ever. I have 2 and won't sell them because I'll buy some more in a year like I've done 5 or 6 times already. It's my home blade I come back to when in doubt. So much spin, control, the blocking and short game are divine while not being slow from mid distance: no 5-ply all wood can compete with it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonyer1980 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/30/2017 at 9:29am
Well I'm back to this club after 5 years in a row playing with Rosewood V.
I was trying my spare acoustic for a while the other day and immediately felt in love with it. It's almost as fast a RWV but way easier to control, specially for short game, so now I'm able to land on the table a few balls more than before, and my overall game is more balanced right now. Maybe I don't have the raw power as before, but its a wiser choice for anyone that can't train more than 4h a week.
Nittaku Acoustic FL

Thibar MX-P MAX FH

Thibar FX-S BH


Avoid any Butterfly stuff... at abusive prices. Raw power without control means nothing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote arg0 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/23/2017 at 4:55pm
Just in case you wonder whether Violin has a milled handle or not... it does. At least the LG version.
Yesterday my Violin slipped out of my hand and dropped to the floor while I was collecting it from the table and one handle part broke off. Just so. It must have fallen on a tsubo, as I never thought that a handle may come off so easily.

Now I wonder what glue I should use to glue the parts back together. Though there is no evidence that Nittaku actually uses hide glue for their strings series (see my previous posts), I would still be more comfortable in using hide glue than others, just in case.

However, since using real hide glue is cumbersome and I never did before, I thought of maybe getting some Titebond Liquid Hide Glue, instead. Any advice?
(Note: I know I have to sand the surfaces, prior to applying glue.)


Nexy Arche & Nittaku Violin LG.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gekogark1212 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/16/2017 at 5:04am
Just whipped out my violin too. Not sure why I stopped using it.
(\__/)
(='.'=) But there's no sense crying over every mistake,
(")_(") You just keep on trying till you run out of cake.
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