Sealing Hinoki Wood?

Hi guys,
   New to this forum, but it contains a wealth of information as I've found a lot of answers to my questions(Thanks).

Anyways to get to the point, I just received a Xiom Athena Platinum RSM Special(J-pen) as a gift and I was wondering if I should seal this blade? 

I wasn't sure because I just read some information saying that Hinoki wood doesn't need to be sealed.

If anyone has sealed this blade or knows about sealing it, I would appreciate the information. 

FYI, I do plan on changing rubbers every 2-3 months, so not sure if it makes a difference.

Thanks.

Seal EVERY blade!
Hinoki often needs less, but the first coat usually soaks in unevenly and requires a few more light coats smooth coverage.

Of course hinoki single ply needs to be sealed. I do it with Joola varnish, IMO the best available in the market. Then I use a #150 sandpaper to remove excess and repeat the process.

i never sealed my 1ply hinoki...

I seal everything also. With glue sheets, it is best to seal no matter what. One coat of Poly will not hurt. Also, if you use some of the new water based glues, you will be able to use a wet cloth to clean the blade. The blade will be water proof.

SEAL IT!  Regardless of what type of glue you are using.  Sealing of the wood will not only make clean up after removing rubbers easier it will also protect the wood from ambient moisture that will cause the wood to swell and move.  Multiple ply blades are not quite as susceptible due to the laminating effect of the the ply's however a single ply blade will eventually warp if left natural, unless it is kept in a climate controlled area that is of the same humidity and temperature all the time.  As a rule wood workers will leave newly purchased wood in the shop for up to two weeks to allow it to acclimate before making anything out of it for this simple reason.  Hope this helps.

Hookshot wrote: Gunstock wood is air dried for a minimum of 5 years to let it stabilize and moisture content to drop. (for high end custom stocks.)

And even with 5 years of stabilizing they still free float the barrel so that it doesn't put pressure on the barrel as it swells and moves.

hey,don't seal.wait!you should buy a product made by ZINSSER.It is called "Bulls Eye Shellac".It is alchohol -based laquer.Any time you can reapply it,as it comes off .You can copmletely remove with a damp pice of cloth.

Got a 22/250 bull barrel that shoots one hole groups with a 24 power target scope. Going to sell it for more $$$ for China. Still have 11 pieces of presentation grade wood left after closing the business 15 years ago. Only build for my son and I now. Been offered $1500 for one piece of Claro.

Thanks guys for all the information :)  I'm going to end up sealing the blade as a precaution.  

As long as the wood grain is visible it is legal I think.

BOTH?!!!. You bought 2 Kokutaku? Well done I am sure you will enjoy the feel of this blade. It is fast and powerful

aeoliah wrote: As long as the wood grain is visible it is legal I think.

exactly! that's why Kreanga (Tamca) Carbon with this stupid gray metallic paintjob was illegal!

GenomicsKnight wrote: everest81 wrote: Ok i just finished my first sealing job, applied thin layers of coat to both of my kokutaku blades(both are new, never used). Wil try out the 10mm on thursday probably.  What did you use?

Minwax Fast dry polyrurethane, got this at Lowe's Store.

Good choice. I use Minwax Fast dry also. Good stuff. The National Woodworkers Magazine did tests on all finishes and Poly is the toughest. Water based Poly is second but I can't tell the difference. I have not had ANY glue or cleaner affect the Poly.