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Chinese forehand Vs. Euro forehand?

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Leshxa View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Leshxa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/27/2012 at 10:20am
Originally posted by L2Pivot L2Pivot wrote:



Originally posted by Leshxa Leshxa wrote:

... He actually said, "do not watch the pros. Trust me." He also said, "I will not show you my loop because you will do it your own way anyways". He said, "We will try to create your loop so that it has all the necessary consistency and effects with whatever execution you will find best suitable for you."

While I was learning my forehand, many people kept coming up and suggesting different things I should do with my forehand and how I did things wrong. Well, there aren't any more left with suggestions, now these same people come up with questions instead. To this day, my technique keeps CHANGING. It is EVOLVING automatically when I practice on different elements. I am still making mistakes, but its a work in progress...


In my opinion, that's terrible advice. Sure, you could misinterpret certain things and pick up bad habits, but what's the harm in watching the pros? I'm assuming you have the required critical thinking ability to be able to determine whether something is conducive to your game.

On that note, when people give you advice, take it with a pinch of salt.

When a coach gives you advice, take it with a grain of salt.

What I'm trying to get at here is that only you can feel your arm swinging, or your knees bending. I've had people comment that my stance is wrong or that I'm not spinning the ball enough, when the actual problem was that my timing was just off!

Regarding stroke development, I believe that it is much more sensible to have a top-down approach than a bottom-up approach.

What I mean by this is, try and develop a forehand technique that is as fast and as spinny as you can possibly manage - try and utilise as many muscle groups as possible and ensure that they all work in harmony with each other. Obviously with the first few attempts you will not be able to execute the shot consistently. This is where practice comes into play so that you can familiarise yourself with the timing, acceleration etc. If you have a decent coach, then this would be made much easier for you as they know exactly what to look for.

Contrast this with the bottom-up approach, where you start off with a bog-standard 'brush-over-the-ball' stroke. You then tweak and tweak and tweak your stroke until you can play a stroke that is more powerful and spinny than when you first started learning it. The problem with this however, is that you have no idea how much more your technique can improve - is it the best you can do? Is it as efficient as you can make it?

These two approaches are kind of what lie at the root of the 'copying the pros' vs. 'find your own stroke' argument.

I'd say that there is a fuzzy area between the two; you can incorporate technical gems gleaned from other players into your game, as well as developing your strokes accordingly to your physical limitations.

I am however, heavily biased towards learning from the pros, especially if you already have a good idea of the basics. Think of it this way: the professionals get quality training from their coaches, they exhibit the training in publicly viewable matches, and we study the results. The only caveat would be, as already stated, misinterpretation of technique (and maybe a few injuries or two if you get overzealous Tongue).

This is what I think the main purpose of a coach is. His goal is not to help you find footholes in a mountain to climb as such, but to show you the peak of the mountain and to make you stretch for the shortest route.

To summarise, I guess the only reason why you wouldn't want to imitate the best would be if you're missing a limb or if you are more... prominently built. LOL


You may disagree, but there is a difference in watching and seeing. Many people observe the pros but do not see the same thing. When it comes to technique - it does not matter how many times you watch someone execute a certain shot, or how much you slow down the shot frame by frame, you are only watching 1 shot!!!

EVERY shot executed by the pro will come with a different element of adjustment of the stroke - it will come with slightly different delivery depending on the incoming ball and the resulting shot that the player wants to produce. You may try to immitate this as closely as possible, but you cannot learn the pro's feeling of executing that shot. This approach will teach you WHAT the pro does, but not HOW he does it.

Your timing being off as you mention is a perfect example of you copying the stroke without being able to feel the touch and adjustment!

Regarding top down or bottom up approach, you speak of it a bit more radically. I would like to compare it slightly differently. So here is my question and I certainly would like to get your take on it. Because I would like to see which approach will be best suitable for learning the forehand as you have described above.

When developing a forehand loop, do you teach a player to use his wrist right away or later? This is a perfect example of a question that will poke a hole in your top down, bottom up theory of learning.

If you look at how human as a species learn to do different things, you will realize that we never get the final thing perfectly right away. Everything changes, and everything comes with timely adjustment. Learning needs to start with basic mechanics and timing. Once that is done, you need to learn to adjust to different incoming shots and footwork. Then you work on improving balance and learning to transfer more weight for power. Then, you review everything and work on trimming timing and looking at how to make movements more efficient without a loss of any of the elements mentioned. Then, you can go back and look at any of these points again to see where you can make things stronger, better, faster. It is ALWAYS an ongoing progress.

Copying the pros won't teach you that and if it will, it won't teach you how to make a BETTER shot, just merely the SAME shot.

I will give you a final analogy. You drive a car right? So you have some experience driving. If you take a seat in FORMULA 1 and try to take it for a lap at the pro level, you will either kill yourself or will never be able to get it to move at the pro speed. That's just how complicated certain things get. You have ALL the skills to drive the car, but you WON"T be able to handle this one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrCrispy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/31/2012 at 12:16am
I firmly believe proper technique should be the #1 priority of all stroke development, training and practice. This flies in the face of conventional wisdom, because really in the end results are all that matters - you can have the weirdest most unorthodox strokes ever and still win. However even in that case, we will find that the strange looking strokes have sound fundamentals, because without them its impossible to be consistent, powerful and precise.

The issue then becomes - who defines correct technique. It now becomes a chicken and egg problem because you invariably look to best results being due to the best technique. But best is almost always the most efficient technique, it produces the most results and its also the smoothest, with least bio-mechanical stress.If we all had the luxury to rebuild our strokes and forget muscle memory, it would be easy to learn any style, within physical limits. But just because you can't hit the  ball like the pros doesn't mean you can't come close and learn valuable things.

The goal should be improvement and efficiency, not becoming a carbon copy of someone's strokes. The reason we copy them is they are best in class, and thus its important to try and copy the most technically sound strokes, even if they are executed at a level we can never hope to achieve. Fundamentals don't change, level of effort and execution can

Edited by MrCrispy - 03/31/2012 at 12:19am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nagatito Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/01/2012 at 3:23pm
I use roundell and I think that I have a chinese stroke. I stretch it all and the pick it up and I brush dont hit and then go up for engage the ball. So I think that you can make a chinese stroke with euro/jap rubbers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote richrf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/01/2012 at 4:02pm
Originally posted by Nagatito Nagatito wrote:

I use roundell and I think that I have a chinese stroke. I stretch it all and the pick it up and I brush dont hit and then go up for engage the ball. So I think that you can make a chinese stroke with euro/jap rubbers

Yes, it is possible to use any rubber with any technique but the overall effect is best when technique and equipment are harmonized. A hard tacky rubber will necessarily harmonize better with a brush stroke technique while a softer rubber, which allows more penetration, will harmonize better with technique that is more direct and penetrating. 

Some manufacturers attempt to bridge the differences with equipment that combines the two, e.g. tacky topsheet with soft rubber and the result is somewhere in-between. One of the problems is that often the rubbers that are available to the general public (commonly called commercial versions) are quite difficult to use no matter which type of stroke you use, so as a consequence there is lots of confusion as well as possible illegal tuning in order to compensate. 

Interestingly, Tenergy rubber seems to support a wide range of techniques quite well which may be why they it so popular. The cost of Tenergy, is probably due to Butterfly's ability to get a lock on the manufacturing of the rubber because of Butterfly's domination of the marketplace. When, I play with Tenergy, I am not so much impressed by any one performance aspect of the rubber (in many ways I find it ho-hum) as I am impressed by its bandwidth of capabilities. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote richrf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/01/2012 at 4:10pm
Originally posted by Leshxa Leshxa wrote:

Learning needs to start with basic mechanics and timing. Once that is done, you need to learn to adjust to different incoming shots and footwork. Then you work on improving balance and learning to transfer more weight for power. Then, you review everything and work on trimming timing and looking at how to make movements more efficient without a loss of any of the elements mentioned. Then, you can go back and look at any of these points again to see where you can make things stronger, better, faster. It is ALWAYS an ongoing progress.

Yes, I have a similar attitude. When I teach my friends, I start with the very basic blocking stroke and build consistency and feeling. I have observed that younger and older players who never learn consistent basics seem to hit a ceiling which they cannot go beyond. Feeling for the ball (which requires a relaxed approach) as well as consistency seems to provide a proper foundation for developing a solid, all-around game. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote decoi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/14/2012 at 8:49pm
some one earlier said that euro technique is more relaxed than chinese.
its seems contradictory since the chinese more body than european players to generate power. therefor their whole body is very relaxed. only just before point of contact to they really engage the muscle.. think of the way Bruce Lee punches "muscle is relaxed up untill the body is hit to get that extra kick of power"- not exact words but something like that.

also with the way the chinese move so much they cant be tensed up or else they cant be fluid and light weight...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote L2Pivot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/23/2012 at 8:12pm
Originally posted by Nagatito Nagatito wrote:

I use roundell and I think that I have a chinese stroke. I stretch it all and the pick it up and I brush dont hit and then go up for engage the ball. So I think that you can make a chinese stroke with euro/jap rubbers


Your technique would not suit well with Chinese rubbers, therefore it cannot be a Chinese stroke.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomtat92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/03/2012 at 9:37am
In the last months I have changed my technique from an european style to an chinese style. Do you think i should change rubber too, to chinese rubbers? I have increased my speed very much and my strokes are also consistent, butt its less spin in my hits. Im not sure if i need more spin beacuse my hits are already powerfull and consistent, butt do you think it will be even easier for me to play with chinese rubbers?

Edited by tomtat92 - 06/03/2012 at 9:38am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote L2Pivot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/03/2012 at 10:47am
My opinion is that it's very difficult to know if your style [really does fit Chinese rubbers/is Chinese].

Try on a sheet of the hard sticky stuff and see how your shots are. If you manage to get a decent amount of speed as well as spin on the ball and you feel that you can 'control' the path of the ball better then I see no reason why you shouldn't switch.

Seeing as you mention you feel that you hit more than spin, I think that Chinese rubbers would serve your loops well as you get [an arbitrary] twice as much feeling on your shots.

And to finish off, one caveat to using Chinese rubbers is that you must really be confident and consistent in your ability to produce a snappy accellerating stroke. It is much too easy to make a fairly decent shot using Euro rubbers with an inconsistent power output, just because of the nature of the rubber to feed on the speed of the ball. With Chinese rubbers if you don't 'whip' the ball properly the rubber can appear dead and the reliability of your shots drop dramatically. A good indicator that I've contacted the ball correctly is if I hear a loud 'crack' from the blade. I find that my YEO seems much louder than my old blade so it's easier for me to evaluate my shots.

Of course using these rubbers is definitely no easy feat and even after using them for a year I can still make the most basic of errors. As I mentioned in another post, there was a time when my shots were more consistent with Tenergy than they were with my H3. It was only after I changed it to a harder (and therefore slower) sponge that I got more used to outputting the appropriate amount of power.


Edited by L2Pivot - 06/03/2012 at 11:10am

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomtat92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/03/2012 at 12:31pm
As you said, when i use the chinese strokes every single steps in the technique must fall togheter at the same time. My technique is not 100 % yet, but when most of the things fall together it feels more natural for my body and I find meny other benefits with the chinese strokes. 

Atm im playing with a medium hard rubber. And an offensive blade. 

Do you think its the best for my development to change to chinese rubbers now, or should i wait till i developed my technique even more? Do you have any suggestion which chinese rubber woulld be the best to start with? 

Did i Understand you right, you changed to a harder rubber and it was slower? I thought harder rubber = more speed


Thank for your answear btw =)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote decoi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/03/2012 at 1:59pm
harder rubber less dwell more power. also lets you use more of your own power
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote racquetsforsale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/03/2012 at 3:01pm
Harder rubbers must be complemented by a soft to medium blade with medium flex.
Softer rubbers, for me, perform well on a medium blade with medium flex.

If you play a looping game, it's best you don't venture into the extremes: soft blades with high flex, and hard blades with little flex.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote power7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/03/2012 at 3:05pm
The only thing to really get use to is the point of contact is further away from the body than Euro forehand.  But it allows for greater coverage of the table and greater margin of error in guessing the amount various spins, since you are over powering the ball with topspin.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cotdt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/03/2012 at 8:24pm
You can't contribute the difference in chinese forehand vs euro forehand due to rubber, because the stroke used for T05 and the stroke used for (tuned 38-39°) H3 is exactly the same. The difference are in passive shots, you would open your blade more to block with H3. T05 also allows you to get away with smaller, more compact strokes. But you can definitely use a Ma Long forehand w/T05 or a Timo Boll forehand with H3. It has nothing to do with rubber.


Edited by cotdt - 06/03/2012 at 8:26pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote L2Pivot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/03/2012 at 9:04pm
I have tried using T05. It is not the same.

Tomtat92: The softer the sponge, the more kinetic energy from the ball is stored as potential energy, which is then transferred back into the ball as kinetic energy.

Think of a trampoline vs. a concrete floor.


Edited by L2Pivot - 06/03/2012 at 9:09pm

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cotdt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/03/2012 at 9:44pm
Originally posted by L2Pivot L2Pivot wrote:

I have tried using T05. It is not the same.



All the forehand strokes (drive, loop, etc.) work for both H3 and T05. I don't know what you're talking about.

Also, harder sponges are faster than softer sponges when hitting hard. Softer sponges are just more bouncy (faster low gear), but the top gear would be slower.


Edited by cotdt - 06/03/2012 at 9:46pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote racquetsforsale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/03/2012 at 9:52pm
Originally posted by L2Pivot L2Pivot wrote:

I have tried using T05. It is not the same.

Tomtat92: The softer the sponge, the more kinetic energy from the ball is stored as potential energy, which is then transferred back into the ball as kinetic energy.

Think of a trampoline vs. a concrete floor.

The sponge has to be more elastic, not just softer or necessarily softer, hence BTY's Spring Sponge technology. I have a cleaning sponge that is softer than the sponge on any rubber, yet the ball doesn't bounce much on it at all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote L2Pivot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/03/2012 at 10:27pm
Originally posted by cotdt cotdt wrote:

All the forehand strokes (drive, loop, etc.) work for both H3 and T05. I don't know what you're talking about.

Also, harder sponges are faster than softer sponges when hitting hard. Softer sponges are just more bouncy (faster low gear), but the top gear would be slower.


Since this could go back and forth with no foreseeable mutually acceptable conclusion, I'll back up my argument and you can retort with a counterargument.

My point is that the optimum stroke for both types of rubber would not be the same if you were to use the rubbers to their maximum potential. During the period in which I was and am using Chinese rubbers, I have had a few occasions where I tried having a few hits with some Euro rubbers.

Test #1:

I was using H3 Neo 38 degrees and my loops near the table were hard to control - I had to resort to 'brush looping'. My shots were usually very spinny but unacceptably slow and weak. After trying T05 however, my shots improved dramatically. It was the same stroke with different rubbers. Did it work for both? Yes. Did it work well for both? No, my shots were spinny but weak with H3 but acceptably spinny and fast with T05.

Test #2:

By this time I was using H3 Neo 40 degrees and my technique had improved a lot. I tried out a friend's Gambler Outlaw: all my shots were blazing fast but they flew straight over the table with many inches to spare. With the H3 I was able to make fast loops that were low and dipped just enough without sacrificing forward speed. Did my technique work for both? No, it did not.

Test #3:

Same as above, but with the new Tenergy 64 I got for my backhand.


These were by no means rigorous scientific tests in a laboratory environment, but I'm sure as hell that if I were to give my bat a twiddle tommorow and try to play my driving forehand stroke with my Tenergy I'd be getting some reliable results. Also, seeing as the last two tests were loop-to-loop it negates your point about 'gears', which has (I presume) more to do with the blade than the rubber.


Originally posted by racquetsforsale racquetsforsale wrote:

The sponge has to be more elastic, not just softer or necessarily softer, hence BTY's Spring Sponge technology. I have a cleaning sponge that is softer than the sponge on any rubber, yet the ball doesn't bounce much on it at all.


Yes, thank you for the semantic review, the more accurate term would be 'elastic'.

But as a general rule softer sponges will be faster than harder sponges; I doubt that any respectable manufacturer would consider using the the same material and structure as your cleaning sponge for the sponge of a TT rubber.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cotdt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/03/2012 at 10:35pm
Both T05 and H3 can brush loop with slow, spinny topspins. If you're doing textbook forehand strokes, with waist rotation and wrist snap, then such strokes are not dependant on equipment. In fact, when I play with short pips, it's still the same stroke as these inverted rubbers, except the blade is more closed.

An example is looping heavy backspin. T05 and H3 both does this the same if you have fast arm speed, but T05 would be much more forgiving if you have slow arm speed. H3 would just hit the ball into the net if you're slow, but T05 you can get away with it. This just means bad technique. Some rubbers are more forgiving of bad technique, but the textbook strokes work for any rubber with decent grip.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote L2Pivot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/03/2012 at 10:43pm
Yes, but have you tried both?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cotdt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/03/2012 at 10:52pm
Of course, I've played thousands of hours with tuned H3 and T05, that's why I use them as examples. I can switch from one to the other very easily. Ironic, because I have a hard time playing with Tenergy clones made by ESN.

People always say that H3 requires some special stroke. Maybe super hard untuned samples are like that. Today's H3 Neo at most hardnesses can play the same strokes as euro/japanese rubbers just fine. Watch the Chinese pros. Their strokes are just textbook forehand strokes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomtat92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/04/2012 at 3:32am
If I should test Chinsese rubbers should I try H3 then? Seem like more peoples give Skyline 3 better rating. Or is there any other alternative of chinese rubbers? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dingyibvs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/04/2012 at 6:10am
I have the same experience as L2.  Most people try to use Chinese rubbers the same way they use Euro rubbers, by brushing with a concave stroke.  Now, there are many situations where it's entirely appropriate to use Chinese rubbers that way, but in many situations, particularly when driving low blocks and backspins, a different, convex stroke is required to get the maximum speed and spin.  Like L2, when I use Euro style rubbers like Tensors or Tenergies, that type of covex stroke results in the ball going WAY long with seemingly little spin.  This is especially true for Tensors, Tenergies actually work pretty well with some adjustments.

As for the question of TG3 vs. H3, generally, people evaluate using Euro-style strokes, so rubbers that play more Euro will get higher ratings.  TG3, being a bit softer, seems to perform better for people using Euro style.  It does Chinese stroke just fine too, and you do get the best performance out of it using a more Chinese stroke.  Personally, I like it quite a bit, I think I can switch to it with rather minimal adjustments from the H3.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote power7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/04/2012 at 12:18pm
I don't think it is the rubber.  It is more about technique at that point.  I've been using Tenergy, Tensors, and DHS Neo TG2 for a while now.  As long as you have proper technique for your FH loop they all more or less play the same.  

It is only in touch shots, chopping, and smashing that you notice a bigger difference in technique to keep the ball in play.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote racquetsforsale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/04/2012 at 2:17pm
Originally posted by dingyibvs dingyibvs wrote:

I have the same experience as L2.  Most people try to use Chinese rubbers the same way they use Euro rubbers, by brushing with a concave stroke.  Now, there are many situations where it's entirely appropriate to use Chinese rubbers that way, but in many situations, particularly when driving low blocks and backspins, a different, convex stroke is required to get the maximum speed and spin.  Like L2, when I use Euro style rubbers like Tensors or Tenergies, that type of covex stroke results in the ball going WAY long with seemingly little spin.  This is especially true for Tensors, Tenergies actually work pretty well with some adjustments.

As for the question of TG3 vs. H3, generally, people evaluate using Euro-style strokes, so rubbers that play more Euro will get higher ratings.  TG3, being a bit softer, seems to perform better for people using Euro style.  It does Chinese stroke just fine too, and you do get the best performance out of it using a more Chinese stroke.  Personally, I like it quite a bit, I think I can switch to it with rather minimal adjustments from the H3.
 
Dingy,
 
By concave, do you mean if the swing path is traced out, then the slope of the tangent line to that path is increasing in magnitude in the direction of the swing, and by convex, the slope is decreasing in magnitude in the direction of the swing?
 
Are you saying Euro/Jpn rubbers REQUIRE a concave stroke, because a convex stroke would send the ball long, but Chinese rubbers can accomodate either a concave or convex stroke?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cotdt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/04/2012 at 3:51pm
Originally posted by power7 power7 wrote:

I don't think it is the rubber.  It is more about technique at that point.  I've been using Tenergy, Tensors, and DHS Neo TG2 for a while now.  As long as you have proper technique for your FH loop they all more or less play the same.  

It is only in touch shots, chopping, and smashing that you notice a bigger difference in technique to keep the ball in play.


This.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cotdt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/04/2012 at 4:02pm
Furthermore, I don't understand why Chinese hard tacky rubbers is associated with brush looping when none of the Chinese pro's do such a stroke. They do mostly drives near table and non-brush looping away from the table. There is always a strong forward component to the stroke.


Edited by cotdt - 06/04/2012 at 4:04pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote power7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/04/2012 at 4:45pm
I think people mistaken their more straight arm, or more specifically, they contact the ball further away from their bodies as being a brush.  Since they don't realize in the Chinese FH you still have to generate forward momentum via arm swing and truck twist.

In reality the basic mechanics are the same between the two FH loop strokes.  The Chinese just has more emphasis of the shoulder acting as the pivot for the swing.  Where Euro stroke emphasis is on the bending of the elbow.

That was one thing that struck me about the CH loop when I was learning it.  Is how far one is reaching to make contact.  It use to be if my arm was out that far, I was out of position and lunging for the ball.  Now that I'm use to it, all FH strokes are just a variation of having the arm out that far.

I'm not too sure about the rubber hardness thing.  I was brought up on Japanese soft rubbers and had a hard time playing with Chinese hard rubbers.  However, after learning the CH style forehand, I can twiddle on either Japanese, Euro, Chinese rubber for the forehand.

Only on extreme shot like a loop-drive (I might prefer tacky Chinese for that extra spin to bring down the ball) or a hard smash (I might prefer less sensitive to spin Euro, Japanese rubber with more bounce).

But on normal shots using 30% - 70% of ones power, the popular high quality inverted rubbers seems to play more or less the same to me now on the FH side. 


Edited by power7 - 06/04/2012 at 4:58pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote seguso Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/04/2012 at 7:21pm
Originally posted by cotdt cotdt wrote:

There is always a strong forward component to the stroke.


a strongly forward, please
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote viktorovich Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/05/2012 at 4:01pm
 POWER7 : " In reality the basic mechanics are the same between the two FH loop strokes.  The Chinese just has more emphasis of the shoulder acting as the pivot for the swing.  Where Euro stroke emphasis is on the bending of the elbow."
 
Ma Long,Ma Lin,Zhang Jike,Xu Xin,... - do both : that and another.
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