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Using water based contact cement?? |
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Egghead
Premier Member Joined: 09/05/2009 Location: N.A. Status: Offline Points: 4230 |
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Posted: 08/28/2011 at 2:43pm |
I've been using rubber cements for a while and it works fine. Just I need to get it from an art store. Now, I see my friends using this water based contact cement from home depot(my coach told me contact cement is a nono few years ago). does anyone use it? TIA
Edited by Egghead - 08/28/2011 at 2:49pm |
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Aurora ST: Rhyzm / Talent OX
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firetack
Silver Member Joined: 10/18/2006 Location: England Status: Offline Points: 950 |
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stick with the rubber cement,the water based stuff is only good for ox pimples imo
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Black Balsa 3.0 fh/tenergy 05 1.9 388d ox
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mmerkel
Silver Member Joined: 01/02/2010 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 746 |
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Usually contact cement is for permanent adhesion only. I don't think you will like how the rubber will NOT come off again after using contact cement. That's why you use rubber cement or water based rubber glue or something like tear mender.
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#1 RL Balance -Bluefire M2 -Acuda S2
#2 RL Avalanche#2 -Bluefire M2 -Sigma Europe #3 Primorac -Boost TP -Magna TC |
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wturber
Premier Member Joined: 10/28/2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3899 |
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The Materials Safety Data Sheet says that it is a water based latex adhesive. That may be essentially the same thing as TearMender or Copydex. I'd say its worth a try. But I'd try it on a non-important blade with old rubbers first.
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Jay Turberville
www.jayandwanda.com Hardbat: Nittaku Resist w/ Dr. Evil or Friendship 802-40 OX |
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Egghead
Premier Member Joined: 09/05/2009 Location: N.A. Status: Offline Points: 4230 |
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you are correct, my coach and my other friends told me the same thing. However, those friends who used water based contact cement told me the rubber came off as easy as rubber cement |
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Aurora ST: Rhyzm / Talent OX
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mmerkel
Silver Member Joined: 01/02/2010 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 746 |
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Like Jay said, it looks like it is a latex adhesive, which seems to be the similar to other TT rubber glues, so give it a try on something non-critical. Do you have any rubber cut-offs that you can try it on?
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#1 RL Balance -Bluefire M2 -Acuda S2
#2 RL Avalanche#2 -Bluefire M2 -Sigma Europe #3 Primorac -Boost TP -Magna TC |
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Egghead
Premier Member Joined: 09/05/2009 Location: N.A. Status: Offline Points: 4230 |
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thx guys; will try it at my old tt stuff
Foget to mention that I saw my friends use it on the their zlf with T05/T64. THat is why I am so tempted to try :) |
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Aurora ST: Rhyzm / Talent OX
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ezeng
Member Joined: 04/18/2012 Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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Since there wasn't any follow up on the contact cement thread - here is my experience,
I have been using Andro Turbo Fix glue. It was pretty much the cheapest TT specified glue I can find in my local store but I still find it rather over priced for what it is (gets worse when I look at Japanese brands). Price aside, I'm not too happy with it's performance as the assembled edge splits too easily. So I took off to a hardware store to look for alternative and found this Contact cement to be quite interesting. Through the most comprehensive scientific test mankind can ever come up with - dipping a finger tip into the glue -> thin it out with two fingers -> let it dry a bit -> check tackiness -> peel/rub it off to check elastic character. This thing was darn good!!! in both strength and elastics. It comes with a built-in brush too, not the greatest but should be sufficient. Came home with $10 short in my wallet and a can of the contact cement. Tried it on a used 729 Faster FH and a UNSEALED clipper. I was ready to sunk $50 to the drain for the good of saving human from over paying underwhelming products. I can only manage to put 1 layer on the rubber and the blade due to the mediocre brush it came with but they look fine (to me) after hair dryer. Sticking on was like any other dried glue. played for half an hour. Everything was fine. Time to remove it! Slowly ripped rubber off the blade sideway - the only correct way! The bond was significantly stronger than Turbo Fix. Most of the glue stayed on the blade, some residue on the rubber. peel glue off the blade was quite easily done due the elastics of the dry glue. NO SPLINTERS at all! NIL!!! I was quite happy about that. Removing residue off the rubber was rather easy as well - not much different than Turbo Fix. In conclusion, I like Contact Cement. - Stronger bond. I have a feeling that the edge would stay cured as long as you don't deliberately rip it apart. The edge should remain cured a lot longer from hitting the table in short games. - Economical (I put it as the second item so I don't sound really cheap :D, but I AM) - Convenient as it comes with a built-in brush - Easy removal. - Legal (?). I don't see how can it against the rules though. It didn't have any smell and the label says non-toxic. Lastly - YMMV E Edited for typo Edited by ezeng - 07/23/2012 at 9:38pm |
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