Handcrafted Blades by Ross Leidy

JimT wrote: Ross Leidy wrote: peter79 wrote: mg wrote: Peter, may I ask you what do you use for sealing the handles? Thanks It's is sealed by Ross, usually I use MinWax Polyurethane to seal my blade handle. Peter and I are on the same wavelength here.   I use the oil-based Minwax Wipe-On Poly.  The oil-based product really brings out the character of the wood. I am using the same. It is really nice. However I noticed that after a few regluings (maybe ten?) the thin layer of sealer starts peeling off in places. I guess that is how it is supposed to be, nothing lasts forever. The question is, how do I clean it off, because it looks really ugly with sealer sloughing off in some places and still staying on in others...

I use paint remover to remove the sealer, But the ink print will disappear too...

JimT wrote: I am using the same. It is really nice. However I noticed that after a few regluings (maybe ten?) the thin layer of sealer starts peeling off in places. I guess that is how it is supposed to be, nothing lasts forever. The question is, how do I clean it off, because it looks really ugly with sealer sloughing off in some places and still staying on in others...

If you are applying multiple coats of poly, if you let the previous coat cure too long before applying the next, then it doesn't adhere as well and can result in the peeling layers as you describe.  To prepare the surface on an already poly-coated blade, use some fine sandpaper (say 400 grit) or a green scotchbrite pad to scuff the surface to give it some "tooth" so that the new coat of poly will have something to grip.  Also, apply it in a thin coat.  You should wipe off as much as you can after applying it.  You don't want any really wet spots showing on the surface.

Ross Leidy wrote: JimT wrote: I am using the same. It is really nice. However I noticed that after a few regluings (maybe ten?) the thin layer of sealer starts peeling off in places. I guess that is how it is supposed to be, nothing lasts forever. The question is, how do I clean it off, because it looks really ugly with sealer sloughing off in some places and still staying on in others... If you are applying multiple coats of poly, if you let the previous coat cure too long before applying the next, then it doesn't adhere as well and can result in the peeling layers as you describe.  To prepare the surface on an already poly-coated blade, use some fine sandpaper (say 400 grit) or a green scotchbrite pad to scuff the surface to give it some "tooth" so that the new coat of poly will have something to grip.  Also, apply it in a thin coat.  You should wipe off as much as you can after applying it.  You don't want any really wet spots showing on the surface.

No multiple layers - just one layer, relatively thin. After that changed rubbers on that blade about 10 times over 1 year time... when I pulled off the last rubbers, the sealer started to peel off as well, leaving traces of dried-up poly on the sponge. Blade surface looks kinda ugly after that.

Ross Leidy wrote: JimT wrote: I am using the same. It is really nice. However I noticed that after a few regluings (maybe ten?) the thin layer of sealer starts peeling off in places. I guess that is how it is supposed to be, nothing lasts forever. The question is, how do I clean it off, because it looks really ugly with sealer sloughing off in some places and still staying on in others... If you are applying multiple coats of poly, if you let the previous coat cure too long before applying the next, then it doesn't adhere as well and can result in the peeling layers as you describe.  To prepare the surface on an already poly-coated blade, use some fine sandpaper (say 400 grit) or a green scotchbrite pad to scuff the surface to give it some "tooth" so that the new coat of poly will have something to grip.  Also, apply it in a thin coat.  You should wipe off as much as you can after applying it.  You don't want any really wet spots showing on the surface.

With "letting the cure too long" do you mean hours, days or months ? I usually apply the second coat after one or two days, and until now I have no peeling, but reading your post I become a bit worried.

strikewzen wrote: wow a true artist ... and a master of taste (not ass kissing but admiring sincerely) although i do not have money for them right now if i may ask a curious question for J pen users  that only play with one surface, is it still necessary to have the reverse side of the blade laminated just like the playing surface? all Jpen multiplies have the exact same laminates on both surfaces. why is this the case? wouldn't it be more efficient to have a thicker core to support the playing surface instead? thank you very much for sharing with us, i think they are not expensive, and are true masterpieces

fatt wrote: My new TT baby (in the mail):   RL 7-ply white limba-red dyed koto-black limba-kiri-black limba-red dyed koto-white limba

Ross Leidy wrote: Peter, I think you must have a neural connection to your photo hosting site.  :)  I no sooner email the final photos and they appear on mytt.  :)

I just saw there's a new email on my smart phone, and post it as soon as I can, to save your time posting it yourself

Ross, is Tung wood available in your inventory?

Ross Leidy wrote: I started researching tung wood when I first was asked to build a rendition of an Acoustic (which is the posted core for that blade) .  What I eventually found was that tung wood is an obscure name for kiri or paulownia.  (Here's one source.)  So, yes, I do have it in core thicknesses, but not as a veneer.

Could you please share with us the Custom Acoustic you've made? just want to know how it looks like, will make one later too

Wooow!!! looks great!!! Thanks for uploading Ross :)

Well the Custom Acoustic looks like Heaven Sword, while the custom hurricane king is more like a dragon sabre 

http://www.google.co.id/imgres?imgurl=http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_tIgnLkJ3VN4/S9W2esnYHBI/AAAAAAAAAw0/UWkcc9SWA2w/s1600/Heaven%2BSword%2BAnd%2BThe%2BDragon%2BSabre.jpg&imgrefurl=http://downloadbioskop21.blogspot.com/2010/04/heaven-sword-and-dragon-sabre-1986.html&h=478&w=350&sz=200&tbnid=IOkFA_pe3aIDFM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=66&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dheaven%2Bsword%2Band%2Bdragon%2Bsabre%2B1986%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=heaven+sword+and+dragon+sabre+1986&docid=X6vOYyJ58H9CzM&hl=id&sa=X&ei=6mL9TtXBJ8XirAfkt_j8Dw&ved=0CF4Q9QEwCA&dur=421

Nice blades but also beautiful pics Ross !

frenchy wrote: Nice blades but also beautiful pics Ross !

Thanks!  I try to show the blades in their best light. 

Edited by Ross Leidy - 12/30/2011 at 8:31am

frenchy wrote: Did you still send blades to my country ? How long does it take ?

France:  Sure - jcdi has one of my blades.

yogi_bear wrote: ross, what wood veneer do you have that is more or less identical to the japanese kiso hinoki in terms of hardness, feel and wood grains?

The closest veneer I have at present is alaskan yellow cedar, which is not a true cedar at all.  It really belongs to the cypress family, as does hinoki.  It's a pale yellow color with very fine, straight grain.  It's a bit softer than hinoki. 

can we please stop posting pics of Ross's blades!  I always thought my Donic burn blade looked pretty nice, but now after seeing his blades mine looks like junk.  His blades look too nice to play with.