Why WBG and not RC?

As inexpensive, easy to clean up, easy to detach and reattach without reapplying as rubber cement is, why do you guys still choose to use water based glues?

racquetsforsale wrote: As inexpensive, easy to clean up, easy to detach and reattach without reapplying as rubber cement is, why do you guys still choose to use water based glues?

1. Rubber Cement sucks to get off softer sponges and often allows for the high probability of chunking the sponge.

2. WBG gives me a much much better application that is more even and smooth, allows for a think or thick layer quite easily in comparison.

3. RC sucks to apply smooth and even, unless you thin it way down...but then you get a dome and have to wait for the rubber to relax prior to mounting.

4. WBG gives me a much much stronger adhesion to the blade.  I use Tear Mender. 


Now, I just find using the TE.....I can glue pretty quickly and get a much better result.  The cost difference to RC is not a big deal as the cost difference to a table tennis companies glues are about the same difference in the other direction.  For me, getting a good glue job and not having problems removing and re-gluing are my main concerns. 

I used both and I don't think WBG gives a more even and smooth application. If you look at the light reflection from the glued rubber you'll see unevenness more often with WBG. The other disadvantage is if the rubber peels off near the outer edge, you can't press it to make it stick again like with rubber cement.

But I still prefer to use WBG now, because it's clean, easy to remove from sponge, and doesn't smell, which is important as that avoids the wife's complaints.. The cost isn't really an issue as it's so cheap with Tear Mender.

I've use RC (Elmer's) and WBG (Tear Mender). Both work fine. No problems applying or removing it. However, some of the newer rubbers may be adversely affected by RC (so I am told) which is why I switched to WBG (Tear Mender) as have several of my friends. However, there are so many different permutations of blades, rubbers, and glues that I think it is very easy for a problem to develop. Now, I am dealing with a whole new level of problem over above gluing - i.e. sealing! Now, I have to ask, what is the best combination of rubber, blade, glue, and sealant? I wonder if I will have time to actually play. 

ZingyDNA wrote:  It seems WBG does splinter the wood more often, maybe because it gets into the grains more. I've sealed blades with polyurethane and water-based polycrylic. I just use a paper towel with both and never had any splintering afterwards, although I don't remove rubbers often, like once or twice in a few months...

richrf wrote: ZingyDNA wrote:  It seems WBG does splinter the wood more often, maybe because it gets into the grains more. I've sealed blades with polyurethane and water-based polycrylic. I just use a paper towel with both and never had any splintering afterwards, although I don't remove rubbers often, like once or twice in a few months... It is quite a dilemma. I just received a reply from Killerspin blaming a badly splintered blade on Tear Mender, which is a WBG. They even suggested I use RC. I am not sure I should seal since if I seal it and something goes wrong, then the manufacturer will blame the sealant or the glue, or a combination of both. There is no good way to do this.

They're just making excuses. Their blade is obviously prone to splinter due to poor design or quality control,  and if not sealed would of done so with most of the relatively strong TT glues, water-based or not.

It's easy to seal your blade to prevent splintering: just rub a little poly-u onto the blade face and edge with paper towel or lint-free cloth. It really can't get too thin, and I don't bother to sand it afterwards.