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Falco tempo long on chinese rubbers?

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jonyer1980 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonyer1980 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Falco tempo long on chinese rubbers?
    Posted: 07/22/2013 at 4:12am
Hi, I would like to know how it acts FTL booster on Chinese rubbers.  Is it as effective as European Sponges or is it a much better to use Dianchi/Seamoon when using Chinese sponges???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ashishsharmaait Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/22/2013 at 4:36am
It is not as effective as on chinese rubbers. Although there is a decent increase in speed and softness, Haifu is much better. Never used Dianchi.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 128YinYang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/22/2013 at 12:08pm
I here that Seamoon and Haifu are among the better ones for Chinese rubbers. All that being said, when I purchased a booster, I decided to make it Falco Long because it seemed to have good results, could work on any type of sponge decently, and provide boost for a couple of months straight.

I have heard that Haifu and Seamoon don't work on some other rubbers, but Falco seems to have an effect on EVERY rubber, even if the effect is greater on some than others.

Of course, you could always use basic Paraffin Oil, which works on just about anything Tongue

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slevin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/01/2014 at 10:51am
Day 8 of FTL on H3 Prov 38 deg. First time doing this.

How long does it take for the dome to recede? I'm assuming that now's not the time to glue to blade?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger Stillabower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/01/2014 at 11:42am
Looks just like mine for 8 days also. I would give it another 3 to 5 days or when it is a little more relaxed to flatten out more. I also try to lay mine down as flat as it will. When you do mount I would use 2 layer of glue on blade and put in a press or weight on it for a few hours. Looking good so far.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Argothman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/01/2014 at 12:10pm
When using FTL on H3, it may be less effective, but doesn't it last significantly longer than dianchi and seamoon?

Also, in what way is it different?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tazdevil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/01/2014 at 12:24pm
Hi Slevin,

How many layers did you put on to achieve this?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bayttplayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/01/2014 at 4:39pm
I have been using FTL booster on Chinese rubbers. The effective is same as Dianchi/Seamoon.
you need to boost on 'Neo' version, 2 thin layers is enought. old version will look like picture shows above after use booster, doesn't matter FTL or others. I think is depand on type of sponge, I did try a non 'Neo' national version before too and is good after FTL boosted.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bayttplayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/01/2014 at 4:51pm
this neo version with seal package OK to use booster.
https://www.megaspin.net/store/default.asp?pid=dhs-h3-neo-p

some unseal package will like the one shows above but not all.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NBSR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/01/2014 at 5:07pm
Can you boost NEO rubbers with the glue sheet in the back? Or do you have to remove them first? If so, how would one go about doing that?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger Stillabower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/01/2014 at 5:39pm
I have done it with the Neo's and non Neo's, but I prefer to use non Neo H3. I have done the none Neo before glueing and after glue layer. The way I do it now is put 1 layer of booster let it dry put a layer of glue let it dry put another layer of booster over glue let it dry and do this process till I get 4 layers of the booster on it, that generally works for and let it lay for several days.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slevin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/01/2014 at 6:21pm
Originally posted by tazdevil tazdevil wrote:

Hi Slevin,

How many layers did you put on to achieve this?



Two: 1 very light 1st layer and then a 2nd layer 24 hours later. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bayttplayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/01/2014 at 6:28pm
Originally posted by NBSR NBSR wrote:

Can you boost NEO rubbers with the glue sheet in the back? Or do you have to remove them first? If so, how would one go about doing that?


I don't take out glue. Usually 2 layers is enough, for me is one time deal until it broken, but you always can re-boost if you think not bouncing anymore.

here's what I did.
1. first layer don't put too much because might cause top sheet bubble.
2. wait one day.
3. 2nd layer. is ok to put little more if you like softer.
4. wait one day, glue it! you can remove the glue sheet or just apply on top of it. I usually apply 4-5 layers glue (Dianchi water base)


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stiltt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2014 at 9:44am
Slevin chop4ever has the method down to science and he underlined the gluing on the blade now! When it's highly curly, with 2 coats of wbg on the sponge. It worked for me after 3 coats of ftl.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slevin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2014 at 9:58am
Thanks fatt. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote suds79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2014 at 11:25am
So speaking about boosting.

I came across this video not too long ago where they recommend putting a player of WBG on first before boosting. (here he uses a DHS WBG)



I've always applied falco booster directly to my 729 rubbers with no problem. One time with a DHS H2 Neo, it bubbled. So I'm thinking from this point forward, put that layer of glue on first.

Problem is that I use Tear Mender which is a water/latex (not sure how to classify it) based glue. Will this work just fine as my base layer before boosting?

Thanks,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich215 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2014 at 11:53am
suds.....TM is pretty much almost exact to any TT water glue. 

Yea some DHS rubbers especially the NEO ones tend to bubble if you put too much booster on them.  The glue they use to attach the sponge to the rubber must not like some boosters and tuners at certain amounts of applications directly. 

I boosted a H2 Neo with a real light layer first....then let sit for 4 days...applied glue and let dry ....then put a medium layer of Falco long on it.   Never bubbled. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote suds79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2014 at 12:44pm
Originally posted by Rich215 Rich215 wrote:

suds.....TM is pretty much almost exact to any TT water glue. 

Yea some DHS rubbers especially the NEO ones tend to bubble if you put too much booster on them.  The glue they use to attach the sponge to the rubber must not like some boosters and tuners at certain amounts of applications directly. 

I boosted a H2 Neo with a real light layer first....then let sit for 4 days...applied glue and let dry ....then put a medium layer of Falco long on it.   Never bubbled. 

That was very helpful. Thanks.

I've got a sheet of commercial H3 coming so I wanted to double check on the procedure first.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fehrplay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2014 at 8:04pm
Originally posted by slevin slevin wrote:

Day 8 of FTL on H3 Prov 38 deg. First time doing this.

How long does it take for the dome to recede? I'm assuming that now's not the time to glue to blade?



Wow, reminds me how my rubber used to look on the old speed clue era! Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote schen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/03/2014 at 2:43am
Be careful if you decide to boost over a glue layer, the glue thickens as it absorbs booster and it is very easy to accidentally expand your combined rubber+glue over the 4.04mm limit.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zheyi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/03/2014 at 2:48am
I always had rubber bubbled after a 2nd or 3rd boosting. even with natblue sponge. Anyone has solution?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NBSR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/03/2014 at 1:27pm
Originally posted by bayttplayer bayttplayer wrote:

Originally posted by NBSR NBSR wrote:

Can you boost NEO rubbers with the glue sheet in the back? Or do you have to remove them first? If so, how would one go about doing that?


I don't take out glue. Usually 2 layers is enough, for me is one time deal until it broken, but you always can re-boost if you think not bouncing anymore.

here's what I did.
1. first layer don't put too much because might cause top sheet bubble.
2. wait one day.
3. 2nd layer. is ok to put little more if you like softer.
4. wait one day, glue it! you can remove the glue sheet or just apply on top of it. I usually apply 4-5 layers glue (Dianchi water base)



Hmm... Doesn't the glue sheet at the back impede the absorption of the booster? I read somewhere a long time ago that people remove the glue sheet that comes in with NEO rubbers before putting a layer of WBG then boosting it. So if I took some old NEO rubbers with the glue sheet and WBG glue left on the sponge it should have no problem absorbing the booster? Taking off the WBG and also the glue sheet seems to be really hard...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slevin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/06/2014 at 3:06pm
A brief update after a league night: the boosting worked amazingly well! The topsheet became very elastic & supple.

My main concern was that it might still not be fast enough given that I've been using Euro / Jap rubbers all along. I was surprised at how powerful it was - from mid-distance, it felt more powerful than Tenergy 05!

Smashes were surprisingly amazing too. All-in-all, this boosting experiment was a big success.

OTOH, I've been told by a US national team member that DHS has stopped producing H3 - is this true?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger Stillabower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/06/2014 at 4:29pm
I hope that it is not true that DHS quit making the reg. non Neo rubbers. I know that they where made for the voc glue but I prefer boosting them than the Neo rubber.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slevin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/25/2015 at 10:33am
OK, I'm about to start using FTL on my 2nd H3 Provincial (38 deg).

However, do we need to remove the sticky plastic topsheet covering (that comes with the rubber) before boosting? I'm assuming so but have forgotten what I did the last time around.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote illinichamps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/26/2015 at 4:10am
slevin where did you buy the h3 prov? mind me asking?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MLfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/26/2015 at 5:10am
yeah, remove the sticky topsheet protective film before boosting. 

the hurricane pic is the old hurricane. It's meant to be used with speed glue. Boosters are for the Neo Hurricanes. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clarence247 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/27/2015 at 12:04pm
Originally posted by illinichamps illinichamps wrote:

slevin where did you buy the h3 prov? mind me asking?

The best is to buy Nittaku H3 pro from ttnpp or tt-japan . You will always get an amazing sheet
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clarence247 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/27/2015 at 12:06pm
Originally posted by zheyi zheyi wrote:

I always had rubber bubbled after a 2nd or 3rd boosting. even with natblue sponge. Anyone has solution?

Harder sponge bubbles less
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unstopabl3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/27/2015 at 12:08pm
Originally posted by Clarence247 Clarence247 wrote:

Originally posted by illinichamps illinichamps wrote:

slevin where did you buy the h3 prov? mind me asking?

The best is to buy Nittaku H3 pro from ttnpp or tt-japan . You will always get an amazing sheet


What's the difference between the DHS H3 Neo and Nittaku H3???
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