Speed Glue

Would this make sped glue?

in my days of illegal player I would put one layer of lem-oil, let it dry (around 1 minute) then immediately one layer of haifu whale speed glue.
let dry, adhere.

this was ridiculously fast with h3, like 100 times what any real booster gives you.

also the more times you do it, the more it reacts and the softer and better the h3 becomes.

there's no better fh combination than this.


Edited by puppy412 - 01/10/2014 at 4:37pm

neutronbomb wrote: If you be apply the rubber cement first, let it dry completely, then apply a think layer of baby oil on top and let it sink in for a day, it will dome up a it  and that's basically how booster works. Most people use paraffin oil, though. That would be what I would recommend. The speed glue part comes from VOCs, which rubber cement does have a low amount of. If you are mixing the two together, it wouldn't do much. By the time the baby oil absorbs completely, all of the VOC from the heptane in the rubber cement would have evaporated. I'm not even sure how well the rubber cement would dry if you mixed the two together. You might just end up with a mess.

puppy412 wrote: n8stee wrote: lem-oil? http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/kyser-dr.-stringfellow-lem-oil the magic potion

Lem-oil is liquid used for cleaning and conditioning guitar fretboards. It is not to be confused with high grade lemon oil. I should know since I am also an advanced guitarist. If you want speed glue any good bike shop should carry Vulcofux glue used in tire repair. Full of voc's and perhaps not available anymore I'm not sure. That stuff was the ultimate speed glue back in the day.

When we ran out of speed glue back in the day, we would use something like this stuff, which we found at Pepboys and some Walmarts:  rubber vulcanizing cement, ususally used to repair bicycle tires and such.  It was a very powerful speed glue.  If you are completely unconcerned with legality and just want to see what it was like, this is the stuff.  Only one coat needed on blade an rubber.  Wait for rubber to dome (which will be very quick).  If you really want to experience speed glue, don't improvise with rubber cement.  Go for the real thing, and this is it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tire-Repair-Vulcanization-Solution-Glue-Cement-32oz-1-Qt-for-Patching-Plugging-/230972171563

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rema-Tire-Repair-Glue-Cold-Vulcanizing-Fluid-8-oz-203-Made-in-U-S-A-/151189488261

This is some nasty smelling stuff, so use it in a well-ventilated area.

Put it on your rubber and then party like it's 1999.

Baal wrote: Alternative two for OP.  Use lighter fluid mixed with rubber cement (not baby oil).  Maybe about 50-50 mixture.  Use as above.  Also pretty good.  Back in the day, people would also use lighter fluid to remove built up speed glue from rubbers. Remember, these speed glues have to be re-used each time you play.  The effect only lasts a few hours, with some small residual effect for the next day or so.

Edited by n8stee - 01/10/2014 at 7:37pm

Vulcanizing cement gives best effect.  It is like early day speed glue.  People forget, but ITTF banned speed glues in two stages.  First they banned glues with certain solvents, in the 90s a some point.  Probably not a bad idea to get rid of halogenated hydrocarbon solvents.  Then in 2008 they banned anything with an organic solvent at all (they claimed for health reasons, but it was not really the problem with the stuff people were using by then, although they stank).  In between, companies discovered all sorts of speed glues with quite safe solvents.  Many were patented.

Baal wrote: Lemon oil and eucalyptus oil were discussed here a lot around 2008, and also on OOAK forum.  These are really boosters, not speed glues.  Speed glue gives a much stronger effect.

together effect gets multiplied.

Baal wrote: Off the top of my head I doubt it but I can't say that I ever tried it myself.  Speed glue works by causing expansiion of the sponge that is greater than expansion of the top-sheet, so it puts some extra tension on the top sheet.  This is what causes it to dome (like the bimetalic strip on an old thermostat that changes shape with temperature).  There is no obvious reason why lemon oil plus one of these older glues would have greater effect.  But I could be wrong about that.  Anyway, the effect of those vulcanizing rubbers is so strong, you won't need more, trust me!

well I'm saying that I tried it and it works that way, you doubt me without having ever tried it....

puppy412 wrote: Baal wrote: Off the top of my head I doubt it but I can't say that I ever tried it myself.  Speed glue works by causing expansiion of the sponge that is greater than expansion of the top-sheet, so it puts some extra tension on the top sheet.  This is what causes it to dome (like the bimetalic strip on an old thermostat that changes shape with temperature).  There is no obvious reason why lemon oil plus one of these older glues would have greater effect.  But I could be wrong about that.  Anyway, the effect of those vulcanizing rubbers is so strong, you won't need more, trust me! well I'm saying that I tried it and it works that way, you doubt me without having ever tried it....

I have used vulcanizing cement.
lasts maybe the rest of the day, not more.
lem-oil + haifu whale lasted 3 weeks when I used it (I did for many months).
the h3 stretches so much that once in a while you need to cut a chunk off.


Edited by puppy412 - 01/10/2014 at 7:58pm

I use the Haifu Whale 2 speed glue on my H3 sponges. I apply several applications and let it sit a few days before glueing to blade using a WBG. It seems to make the H3 as fast as a ESN rubber and I don't have to re-apply the speed glue,just the initial. But I would not use speed glue on a ESN or Tenergy rubber.

@puppy412
? One layer of lem-oil + WBG ? Thanks.

puppy412 wrote: no contact with air = no evaporation.

That would explain why it lasts.  Too bad you didn't figure this out 15 years ago, could have made money with the idea.

Me, I just glued every time I played.