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Technical Blade Question |
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dauntless 
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Joined: 10/06/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1471 |
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 Topic: Technical Blade QuestionPosted: 10/23/2008 at 6:58am |
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I'm going to describe a blade, and ask you experts how you think it should play and how it would be rated:
Thickness 6.5mm +- .05mm Dimensions: 159x150mm handle 100x22 or so Weight: 85g +-3g Layers(3+2): Hinoki Outer1.4mm; Aramid Carbon (blue and black), Kiri 3.7mm Sealing 3 ultra thin coats water based Q: Should it be a hard soft or medium feel? Is it a stiff, medium, or flexible blade? Outer plys hard, soft, or medium? Speed Rating? Looping, Hitting, On-table technique -- how will it play? What rubbers would you pair with a blade of this type? ------- I will post the blade name and what rubbers I have chosen in a few days-- because I think this is IT! The holy grail! I think I have finally found me setup. Your posts along with hitting with this setup will let me know. 2009 may be an EJ free year! |
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1. BTY Primorac, Nittaku H3N, T64 2. BTY Primorac, H3N, Mendo MP Feedback
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pongcrazy
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Joined: 07/07/2007 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 1055 |
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Posted: 10/23/2008 at 9:25am |
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Medium-stiff Flex, Soft feel, OFF speed rating, maybe a little head heavy even at 85g due to small handle size and 159 x 150 head size. Should be able to loop a little better than killing everything but should have no problems with smashing. Sounds like a good Offensive blade to me. Could really range in speed from KLHS to Iolite...... Guessing it to be a Xiom or Avalox blade.
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cole_ely
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Joined: 03/16/2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6899 |
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Posted: 10/23/2008 at 9:32am |
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It would probably be soft out of the box, but I'm afraid of three layers of sealing, even if they are thin. If you even dampen the blade three times I think that's enough to make it harder (sorry Tommy) and I wouldn't do it unless I specifically wanted a harder blade.
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Wavestone St with Illumina 1.9r, defender1.7b
Please let me know if I can be of assistance. |
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IAmI
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Joined: 09/29/2008 Location: Czech Republic Status: Offline Points: 221 |
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Posted: 10/23/2008 at 10:22am |
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I agree with all of the above. Sounds like a nice OFF blade. You NEED to try LiPing though...
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IFZLC
FH T05 2.1mm BH O4a max |
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zerowings007
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Joined: 10/22/2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 137 |
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Posted: 10/23/2008 at 11:46am |
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How does the LiPing plays ?
Is it as hard as Persson CarboTec ? Soft or hard feel ? How is the speed for an OFF blade ? Is there any flex in this blade ? |
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varghesep
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Posted: 10/23/2008 at 11:54am |
The blades with Hinoki ourter is good for close to the table and away from the table games. There wont be much energy loss, so you will get the same stroke response away or close to the table. The carbon will help hitting. This would be little stif.
The sealing can't make any change.
The rubbers I would go for this would be soft tensor rubbers. You will get the great spin of the rubber and power from the blade.
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dauntless
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Joined: 10/06/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1471 |
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Posted: 10/23/2008 at 3:16pm |
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Thanks guys! Good feedback. So far - right on the money.
How about rubbers? After some rubber suggestions, I will tell you what the secret combo is. (not so secret to anyone who knows me  or who reads my silly posts)Cole: The andro free sealer I used is a unique product to me. I have used a lot of chemicals - painting, staining, epoxying, spraying, shellac application (I used to do construction) and I have never seen a product more perfect for what I was trying to do. Went on SUPER micro thin. After one coat, it is almost impossible to tell the product has been applied. After second coat, slight sheen but grain is almost identical to before applying. Third coat, the blade surface is not so much altered as made a bit more uniform. The minor grain "filling" is actually quite nice and there is no "mirror" effect at all. Just a slight sheen. I could've stopped at two. In contrast, I used minwax on another blade same model. I sprayed satin poly, in three light mistings (and I mean ultralight like - mist mist mist done; dry, repeat after dry and light sand ( maybe 3 strokes) with super fine grit, tack cloth) and there is more sheen on that light poly spray job. It worked perfectly, I can still see glue going down into the grain but it wont stick. This was not a triple sealing job like TZ, It was more like a bare minimum so the voc free glues wouldn't pull up outer ply. |
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1. BTY Primorac, Nittaku H3N, T64 2. BTY Primorac, H3N, Mendo MP Feedback
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dauntless
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Posted: 10/23/2008 at 3:27pm |
Yeah, I have not tried this, I am shying away from 7 ply blades. I think 5 is good for me. LiPing: Plies 1 and 7: kiso hinoki. Plies 2 and 6: ayous. Plies 3 and 5: texalium. Ply 4: kiri. Sounds Like a nice FAST blade that would require softer rubbers than I am liking these days, probably not as much flex as the one described above, but might be pretty close. I have heard great things about texalium, mainly the Juic texalium blade. Not sure how this setup would play, but I bet it is faster than above. |
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1. BTY Primorac, Nittaku H3N, T64 2. BTY Primorac, H3N, Mendo MP Feedback
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IAmI
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Joined: 09/29/2008 Location: Czech Republic Status: Offline Points: 221 |
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Posted: 10/23/2008 at 3:57pm |
I've been playing with LiPing for four months already and even went as far as buying a spare copy that I keep in my bag with rubbers on and ready in case of accidental damage to my primary LiPing. I've never done this before, that's how enthusiastic I am about this blade.
Being a thin(er) blade it actually has some flex to it. It's a feature I'm not necessarily looking for per se but I seem to have developed liking for mild flex thin blades through extensive use of Waldner Senso Carbon which I kept using up until the end of the speed glue era. I have never played the CarboTec but I can say LiPing is more flexible than Persson Power Carbon I have. Speed is clearly OFF but not Schlager kind of OFF. Faster than the Waldner I used to play, no question there.
Anyway, I don't mean to steal this thread!
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IFZLC
FH T05 2.1mm BH O4a max |
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dauntless
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Posted: 10/23/2008 at 4:25pm |
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IAmI, no worries. Sounds like what you are into is a faster version of what I have going on. I will be using harder rubbers though so end speed will probably be less, but not a lot less. Also, flex, plus aramid will allow a bit more looping, not as much of a hitter's blade. (not thought you couldn't loop with that) looks like he was having trouble here against Chen Qi: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIv66Yu8Bvg
I think that every blade has some merits if you find the right combo... I need a slightly slower blade. Thanks for the comments. Just to give you a hint of what I am doing with this blade: FH medium hard rubber forhand: between 38-40 degree maybe even harder -- kind of tacky, possible grippy if I can find one with the right amount of spin/control on serve and short game. BH softer more grippy rubber NO tensors anymore ! |
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1. BTY Primorac, Nittaku H3N, T64 2. BTY Primorac, H3N, Mendo MP Feedback
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IAmI
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Posted: 10/24/2008 at 3:54am |
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Off topic: Yeah, I've seen the video before. But don't be fooled. At that same tournament (at least I hope it was Russian open 2007) he beat Samsonov, Steger, Eloi, Lundquist... Also, consider his age.
Sort-of-on-topic: I don't even think the guy has anything to do with the Donic blade other than it's wearing his name so what the heck.
Interesting what you say about looping vs. hitting. I barely do any hitting at all. I'm an old school looper guy.
I wonder where this thread is going, you're one mistery boy... :)
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IFZLC
FH T05 2.1mm BH O4a max |
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dauntless
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Joined: 10/06/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1471 |
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Posted: 10/24/2008 at 4:12am |
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This thread? All my threads are off topic! I am like the worst at staying on topic....sorry.
Anyway, to get back ON topic, the blade I have been talking about here is Control 3 from Xiom. PongCrazy has the most points correct... It is an ALL+ blade so they say. And that proves to be true with softer euro rubbers. But with a harder tacky FH, this blade plays well. Feels more like a OFF- I was going to get rid of both I have, I had in favor of a Butterfly flavor of the month ZLC but after putting a 12$ of Reactor Tornado 2.2 (but looks like MAX), I was really taken aback by the performance, it was like I INCREASED speed and CONTROL at the same time - I don't even think that is possible...but it seems to be working. Playing with Roxon 2.3 BH and liking the setup. Just ordered some TSP Real that I am getting for a nice price and will probably experiment with that. This Sunday, heading to Honolulu from Maui to train with the best coach I wil probably ever get to train with. Former Number #9 Player in China from way back in the day, my buddy is taking me to the club for a lesson. I am hoping he "allows" me to use this rubber combo, probably will say is too fast for my level. I have gone way up in the last year, 2009 will be my year to start playing tournaments! This is gonna be the blade that gets me there. Cheers! |
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1. BTY Primorac, Nittaku H3N, T64 2. BTY Primorac, H3N, Mendo MP Feedback
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IAmI
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Posted: 10/24/2008 at 4:41am |
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I personally think it's OK to use a setup that's perhaps a little faster than what the other kids on your level play with as long as you're willing to give it the hours. It may take you where you wanna be quicker assuming you're an attacker. Good coach is cool but make sure you get the best out of the coach inside of you too. |
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IFZLC
FH T05 2.1mm BH O4a max |
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IAmI
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Posted: 10/24/2008 at 4:49am |
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...by the way I, for one, would NOT seal a hinoki surface blade 'cos I don't see why I should as hinoki rarely suffers from splintering.
I'm sure you sealing guys have your stuff figured out but it never worked for me. The one time I tried the blade (non-hinoki) became sharp and I ended up sanding it down. Then I never trusted it again and gave it to my niece to play with. Well it was not a great blade to begin with (Stiga Tube Off).
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IFZLC
FH T05 2.1mm BH O4a max |
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dauntless wrote: