seal blade

If  i  am  going  to  use  water  base  glue  do  i  need  to  seal  my  blade  .

Yes, you must seal your blade.

Have used Xiom I-Sure and it works pretty well. Once it dries, it leaves a nice sheen.

Then you can use water based glues or a glue sheet.

THEMANFZ1 wrote: water based or not, seal the blade

I second that : seal all your blades.

Second opinion: Never seal any blade unless you have splintering issues. Sealing will change the blade's properties and it won't be for better. Just my experience.

ok here goes my oppinion:
sealing a blade does change its properties a little...
not much though.
it will prevent any layers getting out while peeling off your rubbers.
i think with just one layer its enough.
its not true that if you dont seal your blade it will be destroyed when you remove the rubbers.
it depends on the rubber, the blade, the type of glue you use, how much glue you use.
for example:
i use joola mc1 with water based glue. i never sealed it and the blade is like new.
i used some time ago petr korbel not sealed, with fair chack and the blade didnt suffer.
the only blade i have that did get some layer peeled off is donic waldner senso carbon.
that was using fair chack too.
regarding hair spray, i dont see it as a good option:
i dont know how, but it must change the properties of the blade, just like barnish does, so why not use barnish directly?.
and you have to use this hair spray once every two weeks or less, let it dry, all the process.
its effect on the blade is not as good as the effect of barnish too.
my recommendation is:
if you dont care about the original properties of the blade being changed, then seal the blade.
if you want to use the original blade, as it came from the factory, then take a look at it, feel it.
if it feels smooth it probably wont suffer.
if the surface is kind of rough, maybe you need to seal it.

TSP Racket Coat is a good sealer and it's water based.

I use one layer each side of my blade.

7plywood wrote: If done properly you would not feel any difference between sealed and unsealed unless maybe if you have very soft and slow blade. I bet proper sealing�would�easily pass the "blind test". Don't soak it and you will be fine.

+1

DeathAngel wrote: Ive had 2 blades destroyd because of no sealing and than improper pealing of the rubbers. My first blade, a palio, and another stiga blade that got theyr top plies owned. First time i was using Rubber Cement, on my stiga i was using water based glue. Sealing will change it a bit just make sure u stay thin and do a max of 3 layers if u dont want to notice it that much.

could happen.
but its not common..
you have to be careful when taking off your rubbers.
and take them out diagonally.

sebas-aguirre wrote: ok here goes my oppinion: sealing a blade does change its properties a little... not much though. it will prevent any layers getting out while peeling off your rubbers. i think with just one layer its enough. its not true that if you dont seal your blade it will be destroyed when you remove the rubbers. it depends on the rubber, the blade, the type of glue you use, how much glue you use. for example: i use joola mc1 with water based glue. i never sealed it and the blade is like new. i used some time ago petr korbel not sealed, with fair chack and the blade didnt suffer. the only blade i have that did get some layer peeled off is donic waldner senso carbon. that was using fair chack too. regarding hair spray, i dont see it as a good option: i dont know how, but it must change the properties of the blade, just like barnish does, so why not use barnish directly?. and you have to use this hair spray once every two weeks or less, let it dry, all the process. its effect on the blade is not as good as the effect of barnish too. my recommendation is: if you dont care about the original properties of the blade being changed, then seal the blade. if you want to use the original blade, as it came from the factory, then take a look at it, feel it. if it feels smooth it probably wont suffer. if the surface is kind of rough, maybe you need to seal it.

I too have a MC1 actually I have 2.  I just acquired the second one and it was not sealed.  So given all the controversy and the fact that I now use YES past and there is really no worry about it pulling up the wood  I decided to do a test.  One MC1 sealed v.s. one MC1 not sealed.  I have the same rubbers on  the blades IQUL on FH and Lightning on BH.  Both rubbers applied in similar manner using Yes paste and put in "Ultimate Press" for 30 mins.  I switch between the two blades in between sets during a match and I can honestly say that I did not notice any difference.  They both played with similar speed and control.  So the quandary is to seal or not to seal?  Well, given the above and the fact that I am a woodworker and understand that wood soaks up moisture, both moisture that is in direct contact with it and ambient moisture(humidity) I would have to say seal the blade.  The blade is made of wood.(85% at least) and wood is to be protected.  There are very little wood working projects that do not require sealing of some sort, most if not all will require paint, stain, lacquer, oil, ect.  If you can do what I did and play with a blade that is sealed and an identical blade that is not and decide for yourself.  The choice is yours.

THEMANFZ1 wrote: sebas-aguirre wrote: ok here goes my oppinion:sealing a blade does change its properties a little...not much though.it will prevent any layers getting out while peeling off your rubbers.i think with just one layer its enough.its not true that if you dont seal your blade it will be destroyed when you remove the rubbers.it depends on the rubber, the blade, the type of glue you use, how much glue you use.for example:i use joola mc1 with water based glue. i never sealed it and the blade is like new.i used some time ago petr korbel not sealed, with fair chack and the blade didnt suffer.the only blade i have that did get some layer peeled off is donic waldner senso carbon.that was using fair chack too.regarding hair spray, i dont see it as a good option:i dont know how, but it must change the properties of the blade, just like barnish does, so why not use barnish directly?.and you have to use this hair spray once every two weeks or less, let it dry, all the process.its effect on the blade is not as good as the effect of barnish too.my recommendation is:if you dont care about the original properties of the blade being changed, then seal the blade.if you want to use the original blade, as it came from the factory, then take a look at it, feel it.if it feels smooth it probably wont suffer.if the surface is kind of rough, maybe you need to seal it. I too have a MC1 actually I have 2.� I just acquired the second one and it was not sealed.� So given all the controversy and the fact that I now use YES past and there is really no worry about it pulling up the wood� I decided to do a test.� One MC1 sealed v.s. one MC1 not sealed.� I have the same rubbers on� the blades IQUL on FH and Lightning on BH.� Both rubbers applied in similar manner using Yes paste and put in "Ultimate Press" for 30 mins.� I switch between the two blades in between sets during a match and I can honestly say that I did not notice any difference.� They both played with similar speed and control.� So the quandary is to seal or not to seal?� Well, given the above and the fact that I am a woodworker and understand that wood soaks up moisture, both moisture that is in direct contact with it and ambient moisture(humidity) I would have to say seal the blade.� The blade is made of wood.(85% at least) and wood is to be protected.� There are very little wood working projects that do not require sealing of some sort, most if not all will require paint, stain, lacquer, oil, ect.� If you can do what I did and play with a blade that is sealed and an identical blade that is not and decide for yourself.� The choice is yours.

Thanks for the input! Think it helps to clarify the matter!

Water based paints can be cleaned up with water untill they harden. After that, water does not touch them. For example, water based outdoor paints.
Poly has not been affected by any speed glue, rubber cement or anything else I have tried after hardening. It would show up Very quick on the blades I have a glass finish on. This includes water based Poly and water based Verithane and mineral based Poly and Verithane.  Water just beads right off these finishes.

in that case... i should go back to using poly... i need to get me a masker and rubber gloves though....

well... not really though, cause i don't use speed glue anyway... just that every now and then i don't bring glue and at the middle of playing i hit the edge of table and the rubber peeled off and need to glue it back on.... or someone borrows my blade to test and they use speed glue...