Russian/Glass glueing method?

I have heard of this from a few people the russian gluing technique I think Adam Hugh uses it sometimes it has to do with speed gluing after you put the glue on you put the rubber on a sheet of glass or plasic so it absorbs the vapors does anyone know the exact method on how to do this and what makes it better?

Just throw a piece of plastic wrap over it.  That way if it domes it won't pull up off the glass.  If you wanna get serious you can wrap it completely so that it keeps the sides and everything blocked.

Is there a need to put glue on the blade?or its only the rubber that is to be glued?

used it before, its good, just looks weird carrying a plastic bag around hehe

You can use a thick plastic foil instead of glass also. This method is good for turbo glueing hard sponges. You put 2-4 thick layers of speed glue on the rubber without letting them dry - just put on the glue. Then you put it on the plastic/glass and put something heavy on top of it so it is kept firmly on the foil. You don't want to really press it hard, but you only want to lightly press it onto the plastic foil. You have to wait about 20-40 minutes. When you pull off the rubber you'll notice a perfectly shiny layer of glue. The rubber will expand considerably at this point. You can now roll it onto the blade. The effect of this method is very intense and is recommended for hard sponges like Bryce, Tackifire Special or Chinese rubbers in general. The sponge will get much softer and will be much more springy. The solvents dissipate better inside of the rubber and the speed glue effect is much more even.

An alternative method is the so called "wet glueing". Here you put several thik layers of glue on the rubber without letting the individual layers dry. Then you put a thick layer of glue onto the blade and then you put the rubber with the wet glue onto the blade (also with the wet glue). To make the rubber stick to the blade you have to put something heavy on the rubber or use some form of press. Wait 40 minutes and you have a super fast racket with the pips shining through the surface. This method leads to an even more springy and even faster racket than the above "plastic foil glueing method" because the rubber cells can't spread sideways. The form of the cell is like this: 0 instead of o. The downside ist that this leads to a considerable loss of control. However, it's a good method for rubbers that aren't particularly springy. Which method is best depends varies very much from rubber to rubber. Classic Japanese rubbers like sriver are glued best with the classic layer method, however.

It depends on the players and the type of rubbers they use. The wet glueing mathod is used with new rubbers in the first place to skip the time consuming pre-glueing process and get a super fast rubber right away. Pros put INSANE amounts of speed glue on their rubbers that's why they use hard rubbers in the first place. With all this glue they are pretty soft They go by the weight of a new rubber to select them and thus have the same degree of hardness. They chance rubbers at least once a week because the layer of speed glue gets too big and the glue doesn't enter easily enough anymore. They speed glue before each match and reglue between training sessions. Then you have to see that it makes a HUGE difference if you speed glue several times a day or just 2 or three times a week or even less. If you glue very often there is still lots of speed glue left in the rubber and the rubber feels TOTALLY different and the effect is totally different also (much better if you glue often). If you play 3-4 times a week the "foil glue method" is quite good. It sort of gets close to a often-glued-rubber because the solvents fully penetrate the rubber and have enough time to spread evenly throughout the rubber.

 it sounds like a good method!!

do you know how wet is it supposed to be? ( how much time to wait from the time i put the glue on the rubber)

is there any downside in the glass method?

thanks!!

 

Glue the rubber and then directly put it "wet" on the blade'.

then you wait for about an hour or maybe more thats up to you.

then you get it off the blade and put one layer of glue to the rubber!!!

I think its about the same method only easier!!!!

It's called "wet glueing" if the blade is also glued heavily and you put the rubber with its wet glue onto the wet glue of the blade and then into a press. You have to leave it for an hour or two in the press and then you can directly play with the racket.

Exactly. It can't strech horizontally. That's why the sponge cells take an oval form instead of a circular form (0 instead of o). This increases the catapult of the sponge dramatically and makes it much faster but less controllable.

edwin wrote: Glue the rubber and then directly put it "wet" on the blade'. then you wait for about an hour or maybe more thats up to you. then you get it off the blade and put one layer of glue to the rubber!!! I think its about the same method only easier!!!!

Almost but not exactly. The blade is porous and permeable.

edwin wrote: But it isn't when you laquer your blade, is it???

Just a matter of degree I guess

It doesn't really matter, some rubbers dome some don't. But if it domes too much you won't be able to stick it on.

nothing at all it just seals the blade and makes it a tad faster but it will make it a little harder to make the rubbers stick to the blade at first.

lol it really mucks up your rubber though....... makes your rubber go dead twice as fast as it would if you normal speedglued it.