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Pip lengths and chopping |
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GeneralSpecific
Platinum Member Joined: 03/01/2010 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 2811 |
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I see so to make the most of controlled defense with medium pips you twiddle. My playing style on the backhand is an aggressive hit and block game with chopping as my "secondary weapon" and I never twiddle. This is why I'm thinking the Palio CK531A is a good choice. Many reviews and also the product description state it's capable of fast attack hitting. So my intention is to keep my solid backhand drives and punches that I can do with 802 while having maximum reversal on my blocks and chops. |
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Blade - Xiom 36.5 ALX FL
Forehand - Xiom Omega V Asia 2.0mm Backhand - Victas Curl P5V with Der Materialspezialist Firestorm Soft/Outkill 1.8mm sponge |
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pnachtwey
Platinum Member Joined: 03/09/2010 Location: Vancouver, WA Status: Offline Points: 2035 |
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roundrobin
Premier Member Joined: 10/02/2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4708 |
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Your drive to learn all aspects of table tennis has impressed me quite a lot... Since I mainly chop, block chop and twiddle, perhaps I could help you shorten your various trials with chopping equipment a bit... If your goal is to reach intermediate level by our club's standards (2150+), I suggest you start chopping exclusively with long pips with 0.5mm or no sponge on your backhand, and learn to attack viciously on your forehand. Forget about any medium or short pips to chop on your backhand. It's not going to help you achieve your goal based on statistical data alone. Most players who are very serious about table tennis can not contain 2150+ level attacks to their backhand by chopping with medium or short pips. It's simply too difficult even for many skilled players to do. The main reason is medium and short pips do not bend enough like long pips to absorb energy upon impact, so you will have to cushion every shot with your wrist. This doesn't sound so bad as you have found out when testing on your robot, you could chop with almost any rubber after your "grooved" your strokes. In match situations, however, you will find yourself moving at enormous speed at all times to get into position to chop the ball, so you will need much more skillful "cushioning" than you'd ever practiced from a fixed position. This is the reason why most choppers use a rubber that provides maximum amount of energy absorption and control of spin. Trust me, even with the "easiest" rubber to chop (long pips with 0.5mm or no sponge), you will still need years of intensive practice to reach 2150+ level... Stay away from inverted, semi-anti, anti, short or medium pips on your backhand if you really want to become a good chopper. Some players with rare talents can do it, sure, but for most people who intent to learn chopping they are simply being unrealistic. The sooner you realize this the shorter your path to success will become.
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Old-Man-Southpaw
Super Member Joined: 03/19/2011 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 248 |
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Great post. LOL, I wish I had seen it long time ago, but it confirms my experiences. If I try any sponge, the thicker it is, the less I am able to control the hard loops and smashes enough to get them back on the table, much less low and spinny...
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--- Push/Chop or Attack ---
Blade: TT Piet Off/All Custom 5 ply FH: Rakza 7 BH: DTec.S Long pips Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=48168 |
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bluebucket
Platinum Member Joined: 02/20/2011 Location: 16 Status: Offline Points: 2882 |
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I came across this nice clip of Greg playing a while ago
Edited by bluebucket - 06/04/2012 at 9:31pm |
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the_theologian
Premier Member Joined: 01/11/2009 Location: U.S. Status: Offline Points: 3895 |
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fantastic rally!
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Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max
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pnachtwey
Platinum Member Joined: 03/09/2010 Location: Vancouver, WA Status: Offline Points: 2035 |
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I have seen that video before. That is a fantastic rally. It wasn't the long pips that won the point, it was Greg's FH flat hit.
roundrobin, I am probably about 1500 USATT but I have hit a wall. I can't beat the the 1600 and 1700 players it a match but I can win games. I haven't lost to anyone lower since the beginning of the year at least. When I play with LP I play with my Firewall Plus with Giant Dragron Talon 0X on the back hand. I am not really a chopper but I will chop if I find my opponent can't return chops. The average player where I play is far below 2100. When I chop I chop with with my GD Talon 0X or sometimes with a different paddle that had 755 0X on the BH. |
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roundrobin
Premier Member Joined: 10/02/2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4708 |
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Peter, if you don't chop much and prefer to stay on the table with your LP setup, perhaps you should try something slower than Talon OX on your Firewall Plus... I'd highly recommend Spinlord Dornenglanz or Dr. Neubauer Desperado. Either one without sponge will work better than Talon. The key to play with LPs right at the table is to be able to place the ball at will to either corner as deep as possible with a small motion. Once you master this technique (like Pushblocker), you will be able to move your opponents out of position very often, thus taking them completely out of their game. Talon is too fast for this purpose. Dornenglanz and Desperado work better because they are slower and less spin sensitive. Red color usually works better. |
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Old-Man-Southpaw
Super Member Joined: 03/19/2011 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 248 |
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I'm no expert to be telling anyone anything, but I made it from not playing for decades (only played one non sanctioned tournament in 1976 before) to mid 1600's within one year, so it is possible. I suggest you get a match against a tough opponent taped and go back and analyze the match in slow motion, stroke by stroke to find your strengths and weaknesses. Then try to change how you play to concentrate on avoiding and improving your weaknesses areas, and getting your strengths involved in the play. Once you know where your weaknesses are, you can try to find ways to improve them. I haven't played with that blade or rubber to comment on them, but suggest that if you make equipment changes that you limit changes to one at a time lest you make things worse. I say that because its a goof I've made, changing a bunch of things, only to have to go back to the old setup because things don't work, and with too many changes, I couldn't identify which change caused the problem.
Edited by Old-Man-Southpaw - 06/05/2012 at 12:16pm |
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--- Push/Chop or Attack ---
Blade: TT Piet Off/All Custom 5 ply FH: Rakza 7 BH: DTec.S Long pips Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=48168 |
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pnachtwey
Platinum Member Joined: 03/09/2010 Location: Vancouver, WA Status: Offline Points: 2035 |
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roundrobin, I am aware of Desperado and Dornenglanz. I have been waiting to hear more results from those that use these rubbers. Desperado is relatively new. Believe me, I am quite aware as a subscribe to the LP players channels. I already use red rubbers on my BH as a standard. My GD Talon 0X is red. When my Talon loses a pip or two I will use that as an excuse to get a new LP and try one of the two LPs mentioned or what ever one is the latest super, must have, LP. Old-Man-Southpaw hit the nail on the head. I need to settle down and limit changes. I do make videos. The real problem is keeping mental focus when tired. |
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Speedplay
Premier Member Joined: 07/11/2006 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 3405 |
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Pnachtwey,
Have you tried Bomb Talent? It's not the latest and hottest rubber out there, but it's certainly the funkiest rubber I have ever played against. A LP blocker at our club used it a while ago. Before, I was probably 80/20 against him, but when he used Bomb Talent, I dropped to 50/50. For some reason, he changed and now I'm back to 80/20 against him. I do think he said he had some control issues with it, but I know I "hated" to play against it. |
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The holy grail
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