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Best VOC Free Glue

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arg0 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote arg0 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/09/2012 at 3:14pm
Originally posted by stefashka stefashka wrote:

I am also a fan of Copydex, but I add some water (15-20%) to make it more liquid and easier to apply, very similar to Haifu, so I also use multiple glue layers on sponge and find it very good. 

I must try that: one of the problems I had with Copydex is that it clotted very easily.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote arg0 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/09/2012 at 3:15pm
Originally posted by berkeleydoctor berkeleydoctor wrote:

i just rubber cement (from a hardware store) not sure if it's VOC free, but it works!

Rubber cement is surely not VOC-free.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote arg0 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/09/2012 at 3:18pm
Originally posted by loopkill loopkill wrote:

I have used Butterfly Free Chack and found it to be a very strong bond. It also gives you an ample time to work the glue around, however it is not ideal for glueing more than once since it will not remove easily.

Both are true. Free Chack does not clot easily like, for example, Copydex. But the bond is so strong that you better triple-seal your blade. And forget about removing Free Chack from the sponge: unless it's a very hard sponge, removal will tear holes in the sponge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GoldenDragoon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/09/2012 at 8:15pm
Originally posted by arg0 arg0 wrote:


Originally posted by GoldenDragoon[... GoldenDragoon[... wrote:

However all rubbers I have glued so far hold fine with 4 layers on sponge and 1 on blade. Its easy to remove rubbers and the glue comes off the rubber easy too. I would say that so far it is the best glue I have used by a mile.
Wow, 4 layers on sponge? isn't that a hassle? When I glue rubbers I prefer not to have to deal with multiple layers of glue. The process should be quick: 1 layer on blade, 1 on sponge, short wait, roll-on, (wait 3 days in the case of normal glue), play.


You use a hair dryer to dry the layers which takes about 30sec a layer. You can glue your rubber on with 4 layers on sponge and one on blade in about 5mins, then play with it 5mins later. I do this all the time and it is fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berkeleydoctor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/09/2012 at 8:19pm
Originally posted by arg0 arg0 wrote:

Originally posted by berkeleydoctor berkeleydoctor wrote:

i just rubber cement (from a hardware store) not sure if it's VOC free, but it works!

Rubber cement is surely not VOC-free.

sad ... i havent played in tournaments a long time but i suspected it wouldnt be VOC free
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GoldenDragoon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/10/2012 at 1:42am
I'm pretty sure a few ppl here have stated that while rubber cement is not VOC free, it will be undetectable within a few days of gluing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote arg0 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/10/2012 at 1:55am
Originally posted by berkeleydoctor berkeleydoctor wrote:

Originally posted by arg0 arg0 wrote:

Originally posted by berkeleydoctor berkeleydoctor wrote:

i just rubber cement (from a hardware store) not sure if it's VOC free, but it works!

Rubber cement is surely not VOC-free.
sad ... i havent played in tournaments a long time but i suspected it wouldnt be VOC free

Well, if you wait long enough (several days) after glueing, the racket will be nearly VOC-free, so it won't give you any unfair advantage and it should also be legal to use it at a tournament. I would not, however, take the risk if I were competing at such tournaments, because some VOC may still be present and trigger the detector.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jinlai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/10/2012 at 8:41am
Originally posted by rpbnakata rpbnakata wrote:

What is the best VOC free glue you have already tried? Donic Formula First? Andro Free Glue? Nittaku Fine Zip? And what makes it the best glue?
Please share your opinions.


I used Xiom I-Bond Water Based Glue that has a head-applicator and is easy to apply using the head-applicator unlike other that does not one and this make the glue uneven if you do not have sufficient experience in handling it. With Xiom you don;t get uneven glue on the rubber or blade.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote haggisv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/10/2012 at 9:19am
Originally posted by jinlai jinlai wrote:

I used Xiom I-Bond Water Based Glue that has a head-applicator and is easy to apply using the head-applicator unlike other that does not one and this make the glue uneven if you do not have sufficient experience in handling it. With Xiom you don;t get uneven glue on the rubber or blade.

It's quite a good glue, but it's very strong, so make sure you seal the blade well before you apply it, or you run a high risk of pulling off fibres when you replace the rubber next time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cje Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/10/2012 at 11:30am
Originally posted by arg0 arg0 wrote:

Seems like I should try Finezip, after having finished the normal glue I'm using now.
Otherwise, my favourite WBG is Copydex, which is not table-tennis specific and is very cheap. In any case, it's much better than Butterfly Free Chack, which is a total disaster IMHO.


Copydex for me-using a hairdryer.
cheap (so great if you are trying different rubbers or are glueing lots of bats for others/ your club), spreads nicely (when slightly diluted), peels easily from rubbers..
gives a strong bond but not too strong.

downsides...smell! (though only when wet)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TSuBaSa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/10/2012 at 11:59am
Finezip is the best but its a bit pricey,  LKT is easy to peel( finezip is a bit better though) and much cheaper than Finezip.

TSP Biofix is easy to peel (like LKT ) but its expensive like Finezip.

So I'm using LKT now.(ttnpp price: 100ml= 8$ !!!!!!)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Takkyu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/13/2012 at 5:07pm
Originally posted by benfb benfb wrote:

Originally posted by Takkyu Takkyu wrote:

I've ordered a bottle of Dianchi WBG, received yesterday. I opened it to look inside and smell it (WORST ever smell of WBG btw...), but something bugs me: is it normal there isn't any brush in my bottle ? I expected a brush like in the Dianchi bottle... Confused
 
Water based glues never come with a brush.  If anything, they come with a sponge.  Most people buy their own sponges anyway.  The two most common choices: sponge paint brushes that you cut up or sponge make-up applicators.


Yes Haifu WBglue comes with a brush. Plus, Dianchi booster comes with a brush, and the Dianchi WBG is in the same exact bottle as the booster...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/18/2012 at 3:02pm
Has anyone tried Falco Water Glue?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HowToPlayChineseLoop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/30/2013 at 5:15pm
Originally posted by Takkyu Takkyu wrote:

Hey,

everybody seem to enjoy the Finezip glue, however, I tried it recently and was pretty disappointed. Once the layer is on the blade (or rubber) I wait about 5 min for it to dry and turn white to transparent, as advised. BUT, each time, when transparent, just when it's supposed to be good to slap rubber an blade together, the glue doesn't stick. I put another layer: same result, after 5' the glue doesn't stick. It's a bit sticky 2 or 3 min after the layer is on the blade, but the glue is still white.

So every time I used it, I had to put 1 or 2 layers of Free chack or Donic Vario clean on top of the Finezip.

I've contacted presport to inform them. They only proposed me to send back the almost empty tube so they can try it and if there is a problem with the glue they will replace, if not, I'd have to pay again for the shipping return if I still want it.

What do you think ? Did I get a bad tube ? Is it supposed to be like that once dried ? If so, HOW the heck is it supposed to bond if when you touch it slightly: it doesn't stick ?

--------------------------------------

Another question: is Dianchi water based glue very much like Donic Vario clean or not at all ?

Did anybody tried to buy it from a chinese site (not TTNPP nor Prott) where it can be found very cheap (Taobao for instance) ?

I have the same problem with FineZip, I wait for the transparent, but it doesnt stick, especially at the edge of the rubber. Help me plz.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chopper88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/30/2013 at 11:49pm
Try the tibhar Clue it's the best I used so far . It easy to take off sponge without damage 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HowToPlayChineseLoop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/27/2015 at 7:47pm
Originally posted by Takkyu Takkyu wrote:

But don't you mind FineZip being expensive ? I wonder if people like this glue that much would be cause CNT tend to use it..?

At first I didn't like FineZip because if you wait a bit to much, the glue doesn't stick anymore, it's just dry. I have to keep an eye on the glue, and quickly slap the rubber onto the blade just after it's became transparent, and not waste time.

same experiences. if we wait for transparent glue, it's dry too fast.
i'm using dianchi wg
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Argothman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/27/2015 at 11:28pm
Vario Clean doesn't stick well on a sealed blade, are there better glues for this?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote right2niru Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/27/2015 at 11:33pm
Originally posted by Argothman Argothman wrote:

Vario Clean doesn't stick well on a sealed blade, are there better glues for this?

Some of the Stiga sealed blades always present challenges in gluing , whatever you may use , however in those cases you may wanna try multiple layer of glue on the blade ... 1st layer let it dry and then apply another layer on top 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Magic_M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/28/2015 at 2:37am
For me Copdex is the best, but unfortunately it is not easy to find it here in Germany


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kakapo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/28/2015 at 3:36am
Originally posted by Magic_M Magic_M wrote:

For me Copdex is the best, but unfortunately it is not easy to find it here in Germany




Yes, neither in Belgium of course :(((

Nittaky finezip is expensive but easy to clean...depending also of the sponge of course.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/28/2015 at 6:18pm
You can get Copydex through the ebay.com . I got last year 250ml for around 12eur, but that seller won't ship outside the UK anymore.

However, this one ships worldwide and 250ml for 18eur incl. shipping is a real deal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote neon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/22/2016 at 3:53pm
Hello friends. From the begining in 2008 I use butterflay free chak, donic vario. I stick to the blade new rubbers or old with some tunning. I find only one problem. First two
week I find that rubbers feel tightened. While blink and ball goes on from the bat. Then gradually you feel that rubbers become softer with perfect feel and control. I can 
compare with fresh glued rubber with old voc glue. In this moment glue assumed factory booster in good leval and become high elastic. After two weeks rubber become "dead".
 Low dinamic proparties and low feel. In this moment glue assumed very much factory booster and become mushy like a jam. In this momen glue is not elastic. It is plastic wiht
dead feel. In 2014 I feel that butterfly free chack is become different. I can't feel any softening (speed glue feel after two weeks) and mushy feel after other two weeks. Glue
become strong with no any change in the time. I find that with this glue is hard to play with strong rubbers luke t05, t80 especially in the summer. I feel my rubbers so tight
and very hard to control. After some days I find that dhs no. 15 is like old voc free glues, after some days rubbers becom softish with dynamic and feel. Now I split
glues in two ways. 1 - glue that react to factory booster and become soft and elastic with good feel. And 2 - glue that no react to factory booster and feels riggid with
no speed glue feel.
In this moment butterflay free chack is hard glue that no react to boosters, tide.
DHS no. 15 after some days I feel that that my rubbers a live!!
No impressions from others glues, no time and money.
For me it is main different between glues in this moment. Good luck friends.


Edited by neon - 05/23/2016 at 2:11am
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