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Stiga OFF WRB vs OFF NCT vs Rosewood 5 vs OFFCR

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pingpongpaul View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pingpongpaul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Stiga OFF WRB vs OFF NCT vs Rosewood 5 vs OFFCR
    Posted: 03/04/2012 at 7:08am
Please can you compare?
vs
vs
vs

It would be much appreciated :)
Blade: Stiga OFF NCT (Penhold)

Forehand: DHS Hurricane 3 NEO 2.15
Backhand Coppa X1 turbo hard

GLUE: COPYDEX YEY SOO CHEAP DIY TT ftw the win:)
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ejmaster View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ejmaster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/04/2012 at 8:09am
well imo i would reduce the choice between the off nct and the rwv.
 
the off cr (the one i have is non wrb) feels softer than some off wrb. between the off wrb there are differences (someones feel harder than others). but in general they are thinner blades belonging to the 38 mm era. now they can feel a little unpowered to a certain level player.
 
the off nct feels softer and imo mushy compared to the rwv. the quality feeling and the crispness is better in rw v. the outer is better quality in rwv. but both blades feel good. to non likers about the rw hollow handle maybe the off nct is the blade.
 
highly recommended sealing all these blades. particularly the off nct.  


Edited by ejmaster - 03/04/2012 at 8:33am
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MM T05(fh)/Srvfx(bh); InfVps,LSW,Viscaria,RwV,TBAlc,PG7,yextsc,yeo. EJmaster wood.
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kickass View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kickass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/04/2012 at 8:51am
get the rosewood. as it gets older it turns into a Rosewood XO. then you can resell it for a profit.
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seguso View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote seguso Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/04/2012 at 9:03am
offensive classic (wrb or not):

5.4mm, very flexible, hard.

speed: off for power loops and opening loop, off- for drive/block.

offensive cr (wrb or not):

5.4mm, very flexible, very hard.

speed: off+ for power loops and opening loop, off-/off for drive/block.

offensive wood nct:

5.5mm, medium-flexible, soft.

speed: off- for power loops and opening loop, off for block and drive. this is bouncier than the above 2, but less powerful.

rosewood 5 nct:

I haven't tried it. I think it is flexible like offensive wood but harder, so it should be faster, probably off+ for power loops, block and drive.


Edited by seguso - 03/04/2012 at 9:06am
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Nelsonckh View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nelsonckh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/04/2012 at 11:54pm
myself own a stiga offensive classic ... playing quite long edi
tis blade rate as offensive but actually its really not tat fast / power
n u can feel the blade is not stiff enough when u blocking ...

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Stavros View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stavros Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/05/2012 at 7:47am
Originally posted by kickass kickass wrote:

get the rosewood. as it gets older it turns into a Rosewood XO. then you can resell it for a profit.

Big smile   + it doesn't need sealing.
InfinityVPS   -   D80   -   D05
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doraemon View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote doraemon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/05/2012 at 11:09pm
You are probably right about Rosewood as I have not tried it.  But for all my Stiga blades, I strongly recommend sealing.  I tore the outer ply of Stiga EW even though I have sealed it twice (thin sealing though) with Donic Sealer.  For Stiga it is better to use PU sealer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nelsonckh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/05/2012 at 11:29pm

sealed ... the blade feel different also right.
now im using stiga super carbon, i can see the side the of wood some are coming out also ...
previously using oc more worst ...Ouch
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seguso View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote seguso Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/06/2012 at 2:56am
IMHO sealing blades is useless if you glue with copydex (or pure latex) thinned at 50% with ammonia (or water). it is impossible to splinter a blade.
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Imago View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Imago Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/06/2012 at 3:21am
We have managed to splinter an MC-3 blade with 60% latex, so sealing is a must. More so the new CC and NCT stiga blades which are varnished to such an extent that the glue doesn't stick. You have either to sand the blade or to seal it wth another layer of wb varnish and water sand it. The fresh example - Stiga Intensity Carbon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JHD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/06/2012 at 10:25am
Originally posted by Imago Imago wrote:

You have either to sand the blade or to seal it wth another layer of wb varnish and water sand it.
 
Can you elaborate this process and the sealer you use? I am experiencing difficulty gluing Rosewood V.
 
Thanks.
Blade: Stiga Rosewood NTC V
FH: Xiom Vega Pro
BH: Sriver FX
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Imago View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Imago Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/06/2012 at 10:41am
Seal the blade with whatever water-based varnish you have, wait 30 min, take a 300-grid sandpaper, spit on it and rub the sealed surface.
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