Blade splintering

jt99sf wrote: Can you name the brands you have to seal, it'd be helpful for others.

I agree with the recent Stiga blades, very bad attention to detail. My favorites right now is the Donic and Butterfly blades.

Blades you want to seal if you don't like splinters. "Everything that makes spin". Hardwood blades don't need it. If you don't want to seal your blades then you need to become more skilled at removing rubbers, this involves taking the rubber off diagonally and more than likely using some heat (a hair drier on a mild setting) to soften the water based glue, you point the hair dryer between the blade and sponge as you remove it, this works a treat, even a modern stiga allround resists splintering if you do this. Another option is using rubber cement on the blade and water based glue on the sponge. I don't seal my blades, be careful use a good water based glue and you have no problems

Edited by bluebucket - 10/20/2013 at 12:12pm

frogger wrote: GwaiLo wrote: I ordered from paddle palace as well.  I think the problem may be the type of glue they use because I ordered for them to seal my blade, however, I still had a four inch long splinter come off in the middle of the blade when changing rubbers.  The glue felt so strong, I couldn't believe how hard it was to pull the rubber off.  So, I think the problem may not be whether or not to seal the blade, but to use the right type of glue.  Anybody else order glued paddles from paddle palace?       Paddlepalace is using a stronger bonding glue than they had in the past. That is part of the problem. They are now selling this glue under "Paddlepalace" brand glue. Blades with softer outer plys will not do well with it without splintering. When ordering a setup from Paddlepalace never have them assemble it unless they seal the blade first.

From GL's pst, he did order sealing for the blade and it still splintered. If you use RC, you'll never have these issues. If you use WBG, you're just looking for problems.

NextLevel wrote: jt99sf wrote: NextLevel wrote: jt99sf wrote: frogger wrote: Not all BTY blades are sealed. Fact. prob the one's made in China, that's not what I'm talking about. You don't use WBG, which is the primary reason people seal, so why not mention that so people get some context? since I only use RC,  what are you referring to ? My point is that Butterfly blades can splinter if not sealed - the reason why you don't have splintering issues is mostly because you use RC, which is much harder to splinter a blade or tear a rubber with than WBG.  You mention the RC thing almost in passing.

mertus wrote: haggisv wrote: A good polyurethane coat will go a long way towards protecting the more fragile blades.... a lot better than the water based ones.   +1. Agree polyutherane (oil based) varnish is way better than water based ones.

+1. Oil based polyurethane is the best for me.

I always seal using Minwax Clear Fast-Dry Polyurethane finish. Just half a teaspoon per side (or even less), then spread it evenly and set on a flat surface for a few hours.

I think there are different formulations for oil based sealers. Some have a hardening agents that makes them set up to hard for blade sealing. The ones I have tried did alter the feel and playing characteristics of my blades. I have had zero issues with water based sealers.