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Unnecessary thread for blade Sealing |
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Epid3xia 
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Joined: 01/22/2016 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 47 |
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 Topic: Unnecessary thread for blade SealingPosted: 01/27/2016 at 10:02am |
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Edit: I apologize for being unable to find the threads for sealing in "Tips/Tricks/Help on equipment". Dear Ladies and Gentlemen of this forum My new unused Darker Speed 90 (9mm 88g) just arrived at my home. Now my question is: how do I seal my beauty without loosing any of the Hinoki feel of the wood? This is the reason I bought one of these, so why destroy the feeling of it with bad/hard sealing? But I still want to protect my blade from splintering from changing rubbers. Now I searched a lot in forums all over the internet and came up with 4 ways to do it. First: use polyurethane. The disadvantage is that it alters the playing characteristics of the wood. Even thought it is just slightly and can't be feelt by 99% of people it still will change it due to hardening the outer ply of the wood. So i don't want to do that. Second: hardwax oil I read somewhere in this forum that hardwax oil will retain the wood feeling and could even alter the feeling to a more soft wood feeling. But it still will protect the wood from splintering while changing rubbers. This might be a good choice. Third: hair spray I have read that people use hair spray before glueing their rubbers. It should not alter the playing characteristics and will work. Will it work with every glue? Or do I have to be carefull using not too strong glue? If it works I may use this. Fourth: some special stuff either Charlie from BBC or Kevin from American Hinoki uses It would be awesome if somebody could remember and tell me what they use to seal their blades especialy Kevin from Ahinoki. Fifth: Any TT-manufacturers sealant Well I didn't consider any of those products because of price and the unknown ingredients. But maybe someone can change my mind with some awesome answer about sealing a 1 ply Hinoki with it  Now I would like to hear what you ladies and gents think about how I can protect my blade without loosing any of the feel of it. I hope you don't mind the length of my post!  Cheers Epi
Edited by Epid3xia - 01/27/2016 at 3:52pm |
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Single Ply Hinoki Club Member
Darker Speed 90 9mm Shakehand 86g |
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TT newbie
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Joined: 11/25/2011 Location: Far Far Away Status: Offline Points: 1391 |
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Posted: 01/27/2016 at 10:43am |
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Forget 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th options.
Best thing to seal any blade is a proper racket sealer. I used to use TSP Racket Coat or Joola Blade Sealing. Very simple, after a thin layer of the product, wait 24h to dry and sand with a very thin sandpaper.
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Epid3xia
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Joined: 01/22/2016 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 47 |
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Posted: 01/27/2016 at 10:52am |
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Oh, yes I forgot about the 5th method using racket sealants from TT-manufacturers. I am hesitant to use something like that since I don't know what is in it. I will edit my original post for the convenience of other readers.
Well if one of those TT-manufacturers sealants don't alter the blades characteristics at all I will consider one of those products. Edited by Epid3xia - 01/27/2016 at 11:00am |
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Single Ply Hinoki Club Member
Darker Speed 90 9mm Shakehand 86g |
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Tinykin
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Joined: 10/30/2003 Location: England Status: Offline Points: 2338 |
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Posted: 01/27/2016 at 11:03am |
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Pure linseed oil.
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Blade:
Darker Speed90 Rubber Fh and Bh DHS Hurricane 3, 39/38deg Delusion is an asset |
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frogger
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Joined: 08/03/2010 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3062 |
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Posted: 01/27/2016 at 11:54am |
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Tibhar water based sealer. Light so recommend 2 coats. Does not alter playing character. This sealer does not effect water based glues. |
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Wood Paddle
Red side Black side. |
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Epid3xia
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Joined: 01/22/2016 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 47 |
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Posted: 01/27/2016 at 12:31pm |
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I read on American Hinokis website that you should not use water based sealer for blades because "wood doesn't like water"(http://www.badeola.com/AmericanHinoki/bladeCare.html). So I guess it's not good for a 1 ply hinoki racket since I read somewhere else that hinoki is very sensitive to water even more than other woods. But unfortunately he didn't write what he uses for his blades...
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Single Ply Hinoki Club Member
Darker Speed 90 9mm Shakehand 86g |
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LOOPMEISTER
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Joined: 11/13/2008 Location: U.S.A. Status: Offline Points: 2486 |
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Posted: 01/27/2016 at 12:51pm |
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Get some spray-on "spar varnish". Its the best. it creates a waterproof/protective seal, but its made for outdoor and marine applications, so it flexes along with expanding and contracting wood. By comparison, its not as rigid as polyurethane. Best way to seal a blade without changing the playing characteristics!
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onehander
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Posted: 01/27/2016 at 12:54pm |
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I would not seal the blade.
Although I switched styles last year, I got back into table tennis dusting off a 30+ year old Senkoh 1 with 30+ year old Tackiness D on it. The racquet looked really worn and beaten from years of play and then stored away for many years. Pulling off the old rubber, I was happy to see that the playing surface looked like new! The blade plays wonderfully. Last fall, a co-worker pulled out her old Butterfly case to join a company tournament. She had not played for 40 years. Inside the case was an even older Senkoh 1 with the oldest Sriver with original logo. That old rubber pulled off easily to again reveal a pristine playing surface. After gluing on a new sheet of MX-P, the blade played better than ever. These all used rubber cement. So if you're concerned with water harming the blade surface, just use rubber cement. Don't boost. Just glue new rubber on and play. A good sheet of rubber should last for months. The blade surface should remain new for decades. Unless you're playing a tournament immediately after gluing, there should be no concerns about using rubber cement. |
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LOOPMEISTER
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Posted: 01/27/2016 at 12:59pm |
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yep you're right, no need to seal a 1-ply anyway, because the grains are as thick as the blade!
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jpenmaster
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Posted: 01/27/2016 at 1:02pm |
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DO NOT SEAL THE BLADE!
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OSP Expert II w DNA Dragon Grip
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cole_ely
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Posted: 01/27/2016 at 1:03pm |
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If anything you may just want to go around the outside edge with something.
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Wavestone St with Illumina 1.9r, defender1.7b
Please let me know if I can be of assistance. |
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Tinykin
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Posted: 01/27/2016 at 1:53pm |
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Are you sure about the age? I have at least 100 old blades with rubbers still attached. Not once was the rubber easy to remove. |
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Blade:
Darker Speed90 Rubber Fh and Bh DHS Hurricane 3, 39/38deg Delusion is an asset |
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Epid3xia
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Joined: 01/22/2016 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 47 |
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Posted: 01/27/2016 at 3:30pm |
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Well I have to apologize for making this thread and beeing half blind.
I have just found a lot of information about what I asked. Sticky thread "Tips/Tricks/Help on equipment". Well I have used the search function but I couldn't find the threads listed in "Tips/Tricks/Help on equipment" because when I search for threads older than one year the search will stop with the message: Search Error A timeout expired while performing the search. Please narrow your search criteria and try again. Well I might have to post that in some bug-report thread... So if someone from the moderators want to delete this thread so go ahead. Please excuse my inability! Cheers Epi Edited by Epid3xia - 01/27/2016 at 3:32pm |
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Single Ply Hinoki Club Member
Darker Speed 90 9mm Shakehand 86g |
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the_theologian
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Posted: 01/27/2016 at 8:14pm |
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There are a zillion threads on this, I assure you.
And at the end of the day, there just isn't a consensus. That said, Minwax Satin Poly. |
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Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max
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jpenmaster
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Posted: 01/27/2016 at 10:08pm |
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I have and had a ton of single plate Hinoki blades. I have never had one splinter. They are nothing like a multi ply veneer blade. Hinoki holds up to moisture(sweat) very well cause of the oil content. It is also bug and rot resistant.This is why it is used in soaking tubs ,japanese shrines and many other outdoor uses. Sand the neck down for comfort, glue your rubber sheet on and enjoy .
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OSP Expert II w DNA Dragon Grip
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notfound123
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Posted: 01/27/2016 at 11:08pm |
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Joola varnish for me. I apply a very thin coat, wait 30 seconds and wipe it off. The blade would still look brand new. Never had a single issue with the rubbers not sticking or the blade changing its properties.
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ThePongProfessor
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Posted: 01/28/2016 at 1:32am |
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+1 on Joola Varnish. I sand lightly before application, then apply two thin layers one day apart, and lightly sand again. Works like a charm without any changes in characteristics. And, it is fairly inexpensive and lasts for a long time.
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haggisv
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Posted: 01/28/2016 at 4:19am |
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What do you use to apply the Joola varnish? Does it come with an applicator?
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suds79
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Posted: 01/28/2016 at 10:39am |
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I've always used Minwax Sanding Sealer I got from Mendards. Think it cost me like 5 bucks and there's enough to last you a long, long time.
Simple, inexpensive, easy.
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rocketman222
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Posted: 01/28/2016 at 12:41pm |
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This is from a friend who has been a long time distributors for a company that is known for wood blades, "Dilute White wood glue and spread it all around the blade with your fingers to have a thin coat, this seals the blade as well as doesn't change any properties of the blade"
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haggisv
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Posted: 01/28/2016 at 7:15pm |
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Perfect, thank you! |
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Matt Pimple
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Posted: 01/28/2016 at 7:17pm |
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Dilute with what? |
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rocketman222
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Posted: 01/29/2016 at 12:57am |
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frogger wrote: