Does CR need sealing?
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Topic: Does CR need sealing?
Posted By: Asaomi
Subject: Does CR need sealing?
Date Posted: 11/02/2007 at 11:45am
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Ive got an Offensive CR and was just wondering and doublechecking:
does this CR system acctually need sealing? ------------- Butterfly Viscaria FH: DHS Hurricane 3 BH: Stiga Calibra Sound |
Replies:
Posted By: tommyzai
Date Posted: 11/02/2007 at 12:25pm
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The top players in China not only seal, but varnish the Offensive CR. The one I had was done to these oversealing specs and it was lovely. The Stigas in general are a little rough and not finished well like the Butterfly, especially the edges. I would sand that smooth and seal no matter what. The CR does have that special ultraviolet (or whatever) coating, but still . . . . I say SEAL and NOT with hairspray. Use Varathane. ------------- For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected] |
Posted By: Asaomi
Date Posted: 11/02/2007 at 12:29pm
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but, how many layers of sealing is needed? after the first layer of laquer there should bump out some splinters, then u need to sand paper it and do a 2nd coat.
is it like this with the blades too? ------------- Butterfly Viscaria FH: DHS Hurricane 3 BH: Stiga Calibra Sound |
Posted By: speed_king
Date Posted: 11/02/2007 at 12:32pm
| In past I had Carbo 7.6 wrb. This wood have same outer plys as Offensive CR. I not seal him and I destroy him when it was reglue. I was young and I dont know that I must seal all Stiga blades, because they have softly outer plys. |
Posted By: Asaomi
Date Posted: 11/02/2007 at 12:36pm
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what about layers? is it like laquering normal wood? ------------- Butterfly Viscaria FH: DHS Hurricane 3 BH: Stiga Calibra Sound |
Posted By: tommyzai
Date Posted: 11/02/2007 at 12:50pm
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Besides threatening rude members and creating the ping pong vs. girlfriend posts, here's my biggest contribution to this site:
VARATHANE DIAMOND INTERIOR WOOD FINISH-SATIN (not gloss)-#2002-61. *Prepare blade first. If you have to lightly sand, do it carefully with a fine gauge sponge sanding block. Do not round off blade edges. Use rubbing alcohol to clean. Let dry (a few minutes). Now you're ready . . . 1. Stir Can well without shaking (causes air bubbles). 2. Dip the corner (twisted or folded up a little) of clean, dry cotton cloth* and quickly rub the sealer into the blade and with a technique that covers evenly. I go in circles starting at the center of the face of the blade and work my way to the outter edges, then wipe along the side edge (perimeter) of the blade where the edge tape will go, then quickly return to the face of the blade to wipe off any spill over from the edge sealing with some light vertical strokes from handle out over top of blade. You might want to stroke a nice even level line across the top of the handle where the bottom edge of the rubber will go; however, I think it looks better and strenthens the blade to seal the wings/shoulder. Some prefer to use a sponge or china bristle brush when applying, but that leaves a heavy coat and/or streaks of sealant. THAT IS NO GOOD. The trick is to rub the sealant INTO the blade, then gently wipe off the excess with the cloth. Some use a good quality paper towel. Basically, use whatever is clean and doesn't leave link or fuzz stuck in the wet sealant. 3. Wait two hours, then polish with a clean dry cloth. 4. Repeat. 5. Repeat a third or forth time ONLY if the blade is like bare porous wood (I have over sealed and made a mess. My blade looked like an over protected night table . . . hard as a rock). Luckily, I managed to fix this by sanding with a fine gauge wet sanding sponge and it took hours to repair my disaster. But only do this if you mess up, which you shouldn't. 6. Wait 24-hours. 7. Affix your rubbers! I use glue sheets and NEVER get splinters when removing!!!!!! *Use a cotton cloth or an expensive paper towel like Bounty that will not leave lint of fall apart and get stuck to your wet sealer. I use an old pair of 100% cotton boxer shorts. :-). I don't remember who turned me on to this Sealer, but it was on this site. My hats off to him/her. I added the boxer shorts. ------------- For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected] |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 11/02/2007 at 2:44pm
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Hi Tommy,,, I use the exact same process but with Minwax Fast Drying Satin Poly-urethane. To all those that still think sealing with these products will change your blade, Try It. Only try it with TWO blades. Seal one and use a blind test, someone gives you one of the blades and you try to see which one it is by playing with it. Just sealing one blade and then playing with it tells you nothing. You need a reference blade to compare to. There are many things that will make a bigger difference than sealing. A 2m sponge vs Max. A lighter rubber on the backside. Speed glue. Even regular glue. Three coats of Victory changes the play as compared to one layer of Victory. (regular glue) Glue buildup from regluing over time. I seal All my blades now. Especially Stiga.  |
Posted By: Asaomi
Date Posted: 11/02/2007 at 3:20pm
could anyone make a video? sometimes its hard to understand when just reading. would making a video about sealing blades be too much to ask?  ------------- Butterfly Viscaria FH: DHS Hurricane 3 BH: Stiga Calibra Sound |
Posted By: aeoliah
Date Posted: 11/02/2007 at 9:16pm
Anybody has the same experience ? All blades that I have bought have smooth surface, and they don't show the slightest bump of splinters after the sealing process. I have the same opinion with Tommy : seal all the blades! I seal my blades very lightly, and I also use the rag but I put very little wood varnish, and it becomes dry very fast that I don't have to wipe it again with fresh rag. ------------- Member of the Single Ply Hinoki Club Viscaria Super ALC C-Pen Rasanter C48 |
Asaomi wrote:Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 11/03/2007 at 1:53am
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Hi Aeoliah,,, Some blades will raise the grain after one coat of sealer. Light sanding with fine sandpaper, (#300 or #400) will take care of it. If one more is applied, it usually makes it very smooth. It varies with the wood type. Tommy and I seal pretty heavy. The glue sticks very well and even glue sheets come off with no problem. Glue sheets stay on the rubber and then you can just apply it to the next blade without more glue. Seal the edge while you are at it. It acts like edge tape and helps keep the top ply from coming up if you hit the table. |
Posted By: tommyzai
Date Posted: 11/03/2007 at 2:04am
Sealing the edges also protects the wood from splintering/slicing off when you trim the rubbers off the blade with a Xacto knife. The ONLY negative thing about sealing heavily is . . . strangly the value goes down. This is due to a misconception that sealing is bad. Maybe I think too much about myself and technique, but I feel the blade is worth more not less after I am done. Yikes, it takes me a few hours spread over a few days to complete the process, then if I try to sell I get members telling me I've "modified the blade and it's no longer new."  ------------- For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected] |
Posted By: Hookshot
Date Posted: 11/03/2007 at 2:36am
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Hey Tommy,,, I look at as buying unfinished furnature,,, we are just finishing the job. |
Posted By: tommyzai
Date Posted: 11/03/2007 at 11:38am
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After knowing what I know and experiencing what I've experienced with blades I would be scared NOT to seal. I am tired of ruining a good blade when I peel off the old rubbers. I'm also tired of using wood filler and sanding, then explaining to potential buyers that the blade had a couple dings, but I repaired them. Viva La Sealo ------------- For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected] |