Falco tempo long on chinese rubbers?
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Topic: Falco tempo long on chinese rubbers?
Posted By: jonyer1980
Subject: Falco tempo long on chinese rubbers?
Date Posted: 07/22/2013 at 4:12am
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Hi, I would like to know how it acts FTL booster on Chinese rubbers. Is it as effective as European Sponges or is it a much better to use Dianchi/Seamoon when using Chinese sponges??? ------------- Rosewood V FL Nittaku Fastarc G1-FH Stiga DNA Pro-S MAX BH Avoid any Butterfly stuff... at abusive prices. Raw power without control means nothing |
Replies:
Posted By: ashishsharmaait
Date Posted: 07/22/2013 at 4:36am
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It is not as effective as on chinese rubbers. Although there is a decent increase in speed and softness, Haifu is much better. Never used Dianchi. |
Posted By: 128YinYang
Date Posted: 07/22/2013 at 12:08pm
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I here that Seamoon and Haifu are among the better ones for Chinese rubbers. All that being said, when I purchased a booster, I decided to make it Falco Long because it seemed to have good results, could work on any type of sponge decently, and provide boost for a couple of months straight. I have heard that Haifu and Seamoon don't work on some other rubbers, but Falco seems to have an effect on EVERY rubber, even if the effect is greater on some than others. Of course, you could always use basic Paraffin Oil, which works on just about anything  ------------- Selling Everything! No set-up at this time. |
Posted By: slevin
Date Posted: 10/01/2014 at 10:51am
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Day 8 of FTL on H3 Prov 38 deg. First time doing this. How long does it take for the dome to recede? I'm assuming that now's not the time to glue to blade?  ------------- Trade feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50787" rel="nofollow - http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50787 |
Posted By: Roger Stillabower
Date Posted: 10/01/2014 at 11:42am
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Looks just like mine for 8 days also. I would give it another 3 to 5 days or when it is a little more relaxed to flatten out more. I also try to lay mine down as flat as it will. When you do mount I would use 2 layer of glue on blade and put in a press or weight on it for a few hours. Looking good so far. ------------- Shifter |
Posted By: Argothman
Date Posted: 10/01/2014 at 12:10pm
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When using FTL on H3, it may be less effective, but doesn't it last significantly longer than dianchi and seamoon? Also, in what way is it different? |
Posted By: tazdevil
Date Posted: 10/01/2014 at 12:24pm
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Hi Slevin, How many layers did you put on to achieve this? |
Posted By: bayttplayer
Date Posted: 10/01/2014 at 4:39pm
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I have been using FTL booster on Chinese rubbers. The effective is same as Dianchi/Seamoon. you need to boost on 'Neo' version, 2 thin layers is enought. old version will look like picture shows above after use booster, doesn't matter FTL or others. I think is depand on type of sponge, I did try a non 'Neo' national version before too and is good after FTL boosted. ------------- Innerforce-ZLC FL + H3 + T80 |
Posted By: bayttplayer
Date Posted: 10/01/2014 at 4:51pm
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this neo version with seal package OK to use booster. https://www.megaspin.net/store/default.asp?pid=dhs-h3-neo-p some unseal package will like the one shows above but not all. ------------- Innerforce-ZLC FL + H3 + T80 |
Posted By: NBSR
Date Posted: 10/01/2014 at 5:07pm
| Can you boost NEO rubbers with the glue sheet in the back? Or do you have to remove them first? If so, how would one go about doing that? |
Posted By: Roger Stillabower
Date Posted: 10/01/2014 at 5:39pm
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I have done it with the Neo's and non Neo's, but I prefer to use non Neo H3. I have done the none Neo before glueing and after glue layer. The way I do it now is put 1 layer of booster let it dry put a layer of glue let it dry put another layer of booster over glue let it dry and do this process till I get 4 layers of the booster on it, that generally works for and let it lay for several days. ------------- Shifter |
Posted By: slevin
Date Posted: 10/01/2014 at 6:21pm
Two: 1 very light 1st layer and then a 2nd layer 24 hours later. ------------- Trade feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50787" rel="nofollow - http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50787 |
tazdevil wrote:Posted By: bayttplayer
Date Posted: 10/01/2014 at 6:28pm
I don't take out glue. Usually 2 layers is enough, for me is one time deal until it broken, but you always can re-boost if you think not bouncing anymore. here's what I did. 1. first layer don't put too much because might cause top sheet bubble. 2. wait one day. 3. 2nd layer. is ok to put little more if you like softer. 4. wait one day, glue it! you can remove the glue sheet or just apply on top of it. I usually apply 4-5 layers glue (Dianchi water base） ------------- Innerforce-ZLC FL + H3 + T80 |
Posted By: stiltt
Date Posted: 10/02/2014 at 9:44am
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Slevin chop4ever has the method down to science and he underlined the gluing on the blade now! When it's highly curly, with 2 coats of wbg on the sponge. It worked for me after 3 coats of ftl. ------------- /forum/topic91512_page1.html#1124698" rel="nofollow - sales - forum_posts.asp?TID=19315" rel="nofollow - feedback |
Posted By: slevin
Date Posted: 10/02/2014 at 9:58am
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Thanks fatt. ------------- Trade feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50787" rel="nofollow - http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50787 |
Posted By: suds79
Date Posted: 10/02/2014 at 11:25am
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So speaking about boosting. I came across this video not too long ago where they recommend putting a player of WBG on first before boosting. (here he uses a DHS WBG) I've always applied falco booster directly to my 729 rubbers with no problem. One time with a DHS H2 Neo, it bubbled. So I'm thinking from this point forward, put that layer of glue on first. Problem is that I use Tear Mender which is a water/latex (not sure how to classify it) based glue. Will this work just fine as my base layer before boosting? Thanks,
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Posted By: Rich215
Date Posted: 10/02/2014 at 11:53am
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suds.....TM is pretty much almost exact to any TT water glue. Yea some DHS rubbers especially the NEO ones tend to bubble if you put too much booster on them. The glue they use to attach the sponge to the rubber must not like some boosters and tuners at certain amounts of applications directly. I boosted a H2 Neo with a real light layer first....then let sit for 4 days...applied glue and let dry ....then put a medium layer of Falco long on it. Never bubbled. ------------- |
Posted By: suds79
Date Posted: 10/02/2014 at 12:44pm
That was very helpful. Thanks. I've got a sheet of commercial H3 coming so I wanted to double check on the procedure first.
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Posted By: Fehrplay
Date Posted: 10/02/2014 at 8:04pm
Wow, reminds me how my rubber used to look on the old speed clue era!
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Posted By: schen
Date Posted: 10/03/2014 at 2:43am
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Be careful if you decide to boost over a glue layer, the glue thickens as it absorbs booster and it is very easy to accidentally expand your combined rubber+glue over the 4.04mm limit. Speaking from experience at the US Open  ------------- http://bit.ly/1clQmfp" rel="nofollow - Feedback | http://bit.ly/1rcjTiH" rel="nofollow - FOR SALE - updated Mar 19 Dynasty / H3 / H3 |
Posted By: zheyi
Date Posted: 10/03/2014 at 2:48am
| I always had rubber bubbled after a 2nd or 3rd boosting. even with natblue sponge. Anyone has solution? |
Posted By: NBSR
Date Posted: 10/03/2014 at 1:27pm
Hmm... Doesn't the glue sheet at the back impede the absorption of the booster? I read somewhere a long time ago that people remove the glue sheet that comes in with NEO rubbers before putting a layer of WBG then boosting it. So if I took some old NEO rubbers with the glue sheet and WBG glue left on the sponge it should have no problem absorbing the booster? Taking off the WBG and also the glue sheet seems to be really hard...
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Posted By: slevin
Date Posted: 10/06/2014 at 3:06pm
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A brief update after a league night: the boosting worked amazingly well! The topsheet became very elastic & supple. My main concern was that it might still not be fast enough given that I've been using Euro / Jap rubbers all along. I was surprised at how powerful it was - from mid-distance, it felt more powerful than Tenergy 05! Smashes were surprisingly amazing too. All-in-all, this boosting experiment was a big success. OTOH, I've been told by a US national team member that DHS has stopped producing H3 - is this true? ------------- Trade feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50787" rel="nofollow - http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50787 |
Posted By: Roger Stillabower
Date Posted: 10/06/2014 at 4:29pm
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I hope that it is not true that DHS quit making the reg. non Neo rubbers. I know that they where made for the voc glue but I prefer boosting them than the Neo rubber. ------------- Shifter |
Posted By: slevin
Date Posted: 06/25/2015 at 10:33am
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OK, I'm about to start using FTL on my 2nd H3 Provincial (38 deg). However, do we need to remove the sticky plastic topsheet covering (that comes with the rubber) before boosting? I'm assuming so but have forgotten what I did the last time around. ------------- Trade feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50787" rel="nofollow - http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50787 |
Posted By: illinichamps
Date Posted: 06/26/2015 at 4:10am
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slevin where did you buy the h3 prov? mind me asking? ------------- H3 Prov. |MJ SZLC | 05 FX |
Posted By: MLfan
Date Posted: 06/26/2015 at 5:10am
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yeah, remove the sticky topsheet protective film before boosting. the hurricane pic is the old hurricane. It's meant to be used with speed glue. Boosters are for the Neo Hurricanes.
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Posted By: Clarence247
Date Posted: 06/27/2015 at 12:04pm
The best is to buy Nittaku H3 pro from ttnpp or tt-japan . You will always get an amazing sheet ------------- OSP Virtuoso (Off-) MX-P (Max) Mantra M (Max) Backup: Yasaka Extra Offensive, Nittaku H3 Prov 729-802 SP |
Posted By: Clarence247
Date Posted: 06/27/2015 at 12:06pm
Harder sponge bubbles less ------------- OSP Virtuoso (Off-) MX-P (Max) Mantra M (Max) Backup: Yasaka Extra Offensive, Nittaku H3 Prov 729-802 SP |
Posted By: unstopabl3
Date Posted: 06/27/2015 at 12:08pm
What's the difference between the DHS H3 Neo and Nittaku H3??? |
Posted By: Clarence247
Date Posted: 06/27/2015 at 12:15pm
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There is no difference - if you get one like this: http://ttnpp.com/store/dhs/620-dhs-nittaku-hurricane-3-pro-6.html The only added advantages are that: 1) Quality control is amazing and you always get an amazing sheet 2) Quality in general is higher than DHS H3 Pro and therefore many EU and Chinese who live in EU players around 2200+ use Nittaku H3 Pro You get what you pay for and the price is higher because Nittaku is able to guarantee a top quality sheet - which is really equal to National grade orange sponge. ------------- OSP Virtuoso (Off-) MX-P (Max) Mantra M (Max) Backup: Yasaka Extra Offensive, Nittaku H3 Prov 729-802 SP |
Posted By: unstopabl3
Date Posted: 06/27/2015 at 5:18pm
But this one still requires boosting to unleash it's potential??? And what's the difference between the one you mentioned and this one: http://ttnpp.com/store/dhs/770-dhs-nittaku-neo-hurricane-3-6.html |
Posted By: Clarence247
Date Posted: 06/27/2015 at 5:49pm
The one you have added as a link is the Neo version - it is factory boosted - but only lightly and the effect wears off after time... it's also a bit different. The original version is better... without boosting it's still very spinny, but it will have less bounciness and elasticity...the speed will still be there, but you will always have to hit hard (80% power or more).... with the booster playing at 70% (which most players do on FH strokes) will produce a fast ball... Boosting it makes it easier to play with... the potential is there even unboosted but boosting it makes it easier to tap into the potential... I would boost with H3. ------------- OSP Virtuoso (Off-) MX-P (Max) Mantra M (Max) Backup: Yasaka Extra Offensive, Nittaku H3 Prov 729-802 SP |
Posted By: unstopabl3
Date Posted: 06/27/2015 at 6:41pm
So many hurricane 3 versions out there, it's making my head spin. There's a provincial version, then national version, then there is blue sponge and orange sponge, and now there is Nittaku version Is there any post/link which describes and reviews all of these versions for a layman like me  P.S Which one would you say plays the best out of all these versions??? AND Which one would you recommend to a developing amateur like myself??? I'm currently using Rakza 7 on my FH and Rakza 7 soft on my BH on YEO blade. |
Posted By: asifgunz
Date Posted: 06/27/2015 at 6:55pm
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Get H3 neo. Train for about 6-7 months with it. Then look into prov versions if you feel that you need it. Beginners shouldnt boost rubbers under any circumstance. Nd btw, coming from rakza, hurricane is a different rubber. Like really really different. Its not for lazy people. Even boosted, you will need to work for it. -------------  "I do not have any idols. I am my own idol." - Zhang Jike Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=71761&PN=1#905629 |
Posted By: Argothman
Date Posted: 06/27/2015 at 7:50pm
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I agree. I started out playing table tennis seriously with Hurricane 3 and struggled for probably six months before switching to Bluefire M2. That was much easier to learn basic strokes with, and I kept at it for a year, after which I went back to regular Hurricane 3 Neo and found that I could actually use the rubber properly, which I used for half a year. I've just started playing with a boosted H3 Neo, and I've found that it fits my game perfectly --- after having developed the proper technique with slower rubbers for two years. |
Posted By: slevin
Date Posted: 06/27/2015 at 8:55pm
TTNPP ------------- Trade feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50787" rel="nofollow - http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50787 |
Posted By: Clarence247
Date Posted: 06/29/2015 at 3:36pm
If you get Nittaku H3 Pro there is nothing to be confused about... u dont have to think about commercial, provincial. national anymore... u have a rubber which plays well even unboosted, but plays excellently boosted with 1 layer of water glue, then 2 FINE (or 1 medium) layers of Falco, then again water glue to stick - u have no complications. The rubber is easy enough to play with... in many aspects easier than tensors..short game, opening loop / spin vs underspin, heavy push, serve.... in other aspects its harder to play with because the rubber has not much catapult. It is better than Rakza 7 - on FH - I like Rakza 7 on BH ------------- OSP Virtuoso (Off-) MX-P (Max) Mantra M (Max) Backup: Yasaka Extra Offensive, Nittaku H3 Prov 729-802 SP |
Posted By: unstopabl3
Date Posted: 06/29/2015 at 4:36pm
I've read a lot about it and I don't think it's my cup of tea, I can't spend months changing my strokes and develop a new style just for this rubber. I'll stick with rubbers similar to Rakza 7 and try a new blade. Thanks for the help, and sorry for hijacking this thread  |
Posted By: Clarence247
Date Posted: 06/29/2015 at 6:59pm
Thing is, what you have read is not really true... most of it comes about because of people trying hard versions of the rubber (this makes it very unforgiving and technique has to be perfect), and because they did not have a good FH in the 1st place - they move upwards and rely on the catapult of the rubber to take the ball forwards... with this rubber if you want the ball to move forwards, you have to move forwards with your arm! coming from Adidas P7 I found this rubber to be excellent and very easy to get used to... but I will be honest.... I win less points with it than with P7 - every time my footwork is not right and I lose power, the ball risks going into the net - it's true... P7 is easier to use and gives same results apart from a tad less spin on full power shots, a bit less control on both offense and defence, and worse short game... If you want to switch from Rakza 7 to a rubber which will give you a more deadly FH using very similar technique... then Adidas P7 is really good. But to say you need totally different technique to use Nittaku H3 Pro is not right... it's the same technique with a small adaptation (very natural) of moving a bit more forward to guide the ball forward... ------------- OSP Virtuoso (Off-) MX-P (Max) Mantra M (Max) Backup: Yasaka Extra Offensive, Nittaku H3 Prov 729-802 SP |
Posted By: Kolev
Date Posted: 06/30/2015 at 3:33am
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I kind a like the H2 NEO and can play very well with it, although smash isn't as good as I am used to with the euro/jap. I would like to know is there a big difference between the H2N and the Nitakku H2 Pro. Thanks ------------- Hallmark Carbon Extreme (x3) FH: D05/G1/RX BH: Z2/D64/Ω7Pro |
Posted By: MLfan
Date Posted: 06/30/2015 at 11:00am
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Personally, I think Dianchi or Seamoon is better, since Hurricane is a chinese rubber after all... |
Posted By: Argothman
Date Posted: 06/30/2015 at 1:48pm
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Can you compare Dianchi and Seamoon on H3 Neo? I currently use Seamoon, but I've heard that many provincial players use Dianchi. |
Posted By: MLfan
Date Posted: 06/30/2015 at 9:43pm
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Sorry, I can't lol I have never used Seamoon. I use Kai Lin Oil. Shanghai team uses Kai Lin and I think Beijing team uses Dianchi. I don't even know if Seamoon is used by professional teams. From what I know, Haifu produced Seamoon for the mass public to use. As for performance, I honestly dont think there will be that much difference between Seamoon and Dianchi. I've used Haifu Oil that the CNT uses, however, and it is very similar in viscosity to Seamoon.
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Posted By: Johnny Erasure
Date Posted: 07/18/2015 at 2:45am
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FTL is ok for Tenergy rubbers? What is the first layer for a new rubber: water glue or FTL? ------------- Blade: JM ZLC Rubbers: FH Dignics 09C BH Dignics 05 Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=63937&KW=Johnny+Erasure&PID=764628&title=feedback-for-j |
Posted By: crackfst
Date Posted: 07/18/2015 at 7:30am
recommendation is one WBG layer for slower and more even absorption ------------- Darker Speed 90 Jpen Tenergy 64 |
Posted By: Lestat
Date Posted: 07/18/2015 at 7:39am
Always put 2 thin layers of WBG first, it makes a big difference in how the setup behaves, especially throw angle.
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