Currently I cannot do more than 10 or 15 continuous European Style forehand over the table rallies to the coach's corner without exerting a lot of energy after the 8th or 9th rally hit and my shoulder locks in. If I relax and use no engery the ball will hit the net. 

I tried the coach's T05 to rally and I literally needed no energy to rally the ball back, I did 20+ rallies in a row. 

I am not a fan of Butterfly Tenergy series because I heard rumors that they chip off in 2 or 3 months.

I guess I am looking for a speedy forehand rubber.

I still have in my inventory the DaWei Super Power 2008XP MAX 43 degree $9 and 729 Cream Transcend MAX 41 degree $12 but they are chinese rubbers and I dont think they are up to par with $30 rubbers.

SO far I eyed the

$30 Mark V

$25 Palio Marco

$50 BF, Acudas, Omegas and the Rasant Power grip.

What do you think?

Update: 4-16-15

I am getting an all euro made setup, I will see how it compares to my current setup. 

Big dipper didnt have good reviews at http://www.tabletennisdb.com/. I did not consider it when my EJ called.

I stumbled upon Big Dipper here at MTT forum while I was looking for a rubber with blue sponge.  To my surprise a lot of members here have rave reviews about it specially using it as their FH rubber.  I love it on my FH for Virtuoso and YEO blades.

ditto, but that would be hard for others to follow?

I will try that,  I dont like flooding the forum neither. 

how is the speed of it? I need a rubber for over table forehand rallies. 

2. Joola Rhyzm costs $25 at ttjapan, and is better that all of the rubbers on your list, no matter what metric you come up with. It is just a better rubber than any acuda or omega, regardless of whether they come in banana or strawberry flavor.

3. Mark V without speed glue feels very close to a door mat. If you are looking for Tenergy type of energy, this is about as FAR as you can get without buying chinese. Pretty sure your Moon is better than that.

hmm confident answers. what are you using if you dont mind sharing.

The first serious paddle I bought was the 9-ply carbon Zetro Quad from Xiom along with Xiom Vega Pro (FH) and Xiom Vega Europe (BH). At that time, I think I was in the 1100-1200 rating range. Not surprisingly, the setup was way too fast for my skill level. So I went ahead and tried tons of other blades (mainly 5-ply woods and a few carbon ones) and another ton of other rubbers (Tenergy 05 & 64, Rasant and Rasant Turbo, MX-P, P-7, Sigma II, and some others I can't remember). My game was improving, but not because of the equipment mentioned above. It was all practice plus more practice. All the different blades and rubbers I tried helped me understand one thing: the most popular, or the most expensive, or the spinniest, or the fastest rubber isn't necessarily the best rubber for YOUR game. Tenergy is so popular because most of the pros use them and they really know how to get the best of it. They can appreciate what the rubber can bring to the table. And, then, us amateurs, wanting to be like them, go running to spend tons of $$ on Tenergies. Sure, master Tenergy may indeed be the "best" rubber out there, but is it the best for you? 

18 months have passed, and I've improved to a 1600-1700 level. After all the blades and rubbers I went through, guess what I'm using now. Yes, a Vega Pro and a Vega Europe, which I bought for $30 a piece along with the Zetro Quad valued at $80 on TT11.

My recommendation, from personal experience, is to try out as much stuff as you can (but please don't go on a spending spree like I did ). Almost every rubber out there is good. But for it to be good for you, it must fit your style of play. I find the Vega Pro a solid choice for my forehand because it has decent speed and spin (nothing crazy). It's fast enough to end a point but also controllable for short pushes and returns. When power-looping, it creates a low to mid arc with a very sudden dip or bite at the end of the trajectory. I love this aspect of the rubber. On the other hand, the Vega Europe is soft and not too fast of a rubber and I use for the backhand. Its biggest asset, I believe, is its control. The ball sinks into the rubber and sponge giving you more time to guide it. I also like the spin this rubber creates. Again, it's nothing exaggerated like a Tenergy, MX-P, or Rasant, but it has enough of everything for solid play.

I hope you end up making an informative decision and avoid spending unnecessary money. But, if you don't mind, you are welcome to join the legendary EJ club.  

Joola Rhyzm x2 (get the regular one); if you have $ to burn, get the JOOLA Maxxx 

It also has a reasonable price tag. If you are looking to focus on stroke development and want a bit more spring in your rubber than your current, Mark V should suit well.

I am going to buy a couple rubbers together to save on shipping:

Maxxx 500 Red 2MM for FH

Calibra Tour H Red 2.1MM for FH

Sigma I Pro Black Max for BH

 

That being said...I do think the Japanese and German rubbers are better quality overall than many of the Chinese brands. I know there are many good Chinese rubbers out there, but there also seems to be a problem with consistency as sometimes I've bought a sheet of Chinese rubber that developed bubbles or had the topsheet come unglued.

Any higher would be the proverbial Tenergy series which I remain a contractarian. 

I played: Moon, H3, T88-I, TinArc, Aurora and 729 OEMs. I still have Super 2008 XP and Cream Transcend sealed. I feel bad about my EJ syndrome.

I have used XP 2008 for my BH for a few years... and had great control.

Even though I do not think Moon is all it si cracked up to be, it is essentially a control OFF rubber.

Either rubber are suitable rubbers for a blade anywhere in the ALL to OFF- class.

Your T-11 is not a great blade to be learning how to loop, it is a hitters or combo player blade.

There are hundreds of suitable blades out there, snatch one up, transfer your rubbers and have at it.

if you are around a club and someone to coach or at least help out, you'll be fine.

Btw, I dont consider myself a beginner's level. I can loop, flick, push and serve all with spins or no spins.

How is the Omega 5 Asia? maybe I should have bought it instead of the Sigma I Pro. FML, just 30 minutes ago. 

Sigma I is not going to be legal after July 1?  Why?  I have a sheet or two laying around I better use up, but they last forever.

Just for the record, I read and took you guys' advices wholeheartedly, I have used Vega PRO and EURO from other players in my area and did not like it. 

Sigma I Pro is OOS, I am getting Joola Maxxx 450 instead, read its a good BH rubber.

Having a coach is a double-edged sword, he/she may want to sell you some items that you do not need. I saw kids got MJ with T-05 / T-05 fx from their coach (too fast, some of the kids still have no idea why they miss the ball ), a guy got Rhyzm 425 on fh be'cos the coach ran out regular Rhyzm (too slow, he got a Maxxx later), a guy got Maxxx on both side be'cos of $$$$ (too fast for him, he got a Rhyzm later). 

Also T11 is a great blade, given the price and class. I play with it occasionally, using my friend's spare paddle. It is very stable, no vibration, and decent speed. I don't think you need to change your blade for quite a while. Don't buy softer, slower blades, they just ruin your game.

Joola Maxx needs u to have a very active stroke when receiving serves. Put the Joola Maxx on fh. XIOM's Omege is good on FH 

then whats a right way to respond. i didnt know that stating the rubber facts is general? the guy did not post what Maxxx hes talking about. I researched. I relate to the medium sponge for backhand. 

I do not get to try out all the big names out there and then I choose this or that. 

Also, are you going to tell me you would put a Maxxx 400 for FH? Obviously not. Saying that my response was wrong is one sided. 

ha! my premade A6002 has the bubble problem. On both sides. what a waste.

Thanks to GS for posting his signature. Omega V Asia is awesome. Looping is better than BlueFire M1, M2 and Omega Pro IV that I tried before. 

My usual coach missed all the rally balls last night and I am happy that he cant b!tch about my setup anymore. 

Baracuda lacks speed but is spinny for BH, should I get a Xiom Omega V Tour or any other faster rubbers?

Good for you, a lot of people find the Asia series a little bit too hard; may be you can check out the Nittaku Fastarc 

FastArc is another premium rubber like Airo....? damn it im broke. Maybe I should get a cheap chinese rubber for BH?

S-1 is only ~$30 usd

Do you mean the same direction loops or oscillation topspin style from opponent?

I mean you topspin to block 20 times - you loop and your partner blocks and you can loop with control into your partner's block consistently with your rally loop.  That way, you can have an idea what your basic loop is like with one rubber vs. another rubber.  If your blocker is good, he can tell you whether the loops seem faster or spinnier and you can sometimes even tell by how well he is blocking them or how consistently you are placing the ball.  But when you don't have a consistent shot, you will often blame the equipment (rightly or wrongly, usually wrongly).  Making one good fast loop doesn't mean much, making 5 with similar power and placement under control is more important.

Ideally, you should test all your shots, especially your block and push, but at least, the loop is a quick benchmark for an advanced player once you assume that spin generation and spin sensitivity go together.

I do that easily. the repeated Point A to point B looping is easy to me. 

What I have problems before was Point A to point B, then Point A to point C, then Point A to point D from the partner. I didnt have that issue last night with my setup. 

You have apparently already convinced yourself that you need a super light paddle (likely a bad idea), a carbon blade (ditto), and high $$ rubber.  Some thoughts:

Really light blades are often tricky to control and hence generally less consistent.  It seems like they react to every little twitch of your hand and fingers, which can be a problem.  Some good players use them, but these players have remarkable touch, technique, and dexterity.  Very light paddles often require MORE input to get similar results (not generally drastically more, but more). Unless you are less than about 100lbs, or have some significant physical issue, handling a 180g paddle should be no problem.  Granted, you'll have to get used to it, but the additional stability and more consistency could well be a good thing.  But that is your decision - just be aware than there are complications with going super-light.

Carbon blades (or other super material reinforced) are something some love and others hate.  I don't think they are a good idea for most (relative) beginners.  Learning to actually generate power using proper technique (legs, waist, shoulders - all working in the proper sequence) is a CRITICAL skill if you have aspirations towards high-level play.  Fast blades and high $$ rubbers can cover up for some very bad habits and poor technique.  They MIGHT help if you goal is to beat one slightly better guy next week.  They likely to hurt, or at least slow you down a bit if your goal is to become a USATT 1800 (or better) two wing looper.  If you learn to loop properly and with power using "moderate" equipment, stepping up to a "super" blade later may have a nice effect.  

Same with rubber.  You need something consistent.  Lots of inexpensive rubbers are consistent - even a good number of Chinese ones.  Depending on your strokes and taste you might need firm, medium, or soft sponge - suit yourself.  I think Omega V - and a good number or the other rubbers mentioned are ridiculous for someone who is still learning to loop.  It is fast and spinny to be sure, but it can be a little finicky and (like essentially all super rubbers) demands accurate responses (be they counters, blocks, or counterloops) to incoming spin.  

For fun, put some of your 2008XP on your slowest blade, then loan it to a good player at your club.  Bet him $50 that he can't beat a player ~100 points lower than him, then stand back.  I'm 100% sure that, after about 30 seconds of warm-up, they'll be able to loops very nicely with no problem.  This test is VERY likely to cost you $50 though!

bes

p.s. I didn't listen either when I started out.  Like (likely) everyone else telling you to "simmer down on the equipment front", I've been there and done that and really wish I hadn't!  I totally understand the lure of finding the perfect blade, rubber, or combo.  It is fun and a challenge.  But it isn't the quickest or cheapest way to improve!

Thanks for the through reply, I didnt try to use N9 with Moon after the glued OEM 729 RITC rubber was too slow for looping. I am very happy about my current setup. I need little adjustments but thats all i think i need. V Asia does a slow/fast play exactly as how I wanted.

I think I'd be with this all euro setup for a while. 

ps. are all euro chicks also this consistent and high ended? :D

I have seem others do high bounce and slow loops, I cannot stand that as I'd smash it dead.

My friend, you are still learning about this sport - try to learn more, rather than believe you understand everything based on simple reasoning like fast is better than slow, or low bounce is better than high bounce.  You may be right, but you will find that there are always things to learn.

Sure - I will be at the NYISC at College Point at least two more times this year to play league matches.  If you can make it there, let me know.