Which rubbers below won't survive re-gluing?
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Topic: Which rubbers below won't survive re-gluing?
Posted By: Dream1700
Subject: Which rubbers below won't survive re-gluing?
Date Posted: 02/21/2018 at 3:17pm
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Are any of these sensitive to re-gluing: Fastarc S-1, Factive, Vega Europe, Vega Asia DF, Rasanter V42? I would like to re-glue them four times on different blades using Elmer rubber cement. Any of these I should be particular gentle with? Other glue alternatives? |
Replies:
Posted By: Dream1700
Date Posted: 02/25/2018 at 12:20pm
| Will any of the above rubbers be affected negatively by Elmer cement? I have stumbled on the posts that claim that some tensors might be affected. Should I use Tearmender instead? I don't want to spend a fortune on fancy glue. |
Posted By: HarmonicTT
Date Posted: 02/25/2018 at 12:43pm
| Gotta wait in between also rubber cement doesn't just come off but the effect dies within a week or two so beware. Use tearmender to rip off the old existing glue. I have been boosting my mxp like such |
Posted By: Dream1700
Date Posted: 02/25/2018 at 12:56pm
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I use just enough rubber cement to make it stick and I let it dry before sticking the rubber on. I actually do not want any boosting effect. I am mostly worried that I may end up testing rubbers that are somewhat ruined by Elmer.
So far I have seen Rakza and Tenergy mentioned as negatively affected by rubber cement.
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Posted By: ohwell
Date Posted: 02/25/2018 at 12:57pm
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Elmer’s might make regluing even harder since it tends to stretch the rubbers, which worsens the shrinking when you unglue. Tearmender doesn’t do that but I find it much harder to get good results with than eg revolution number 3. To be honest I don’t understand the point of skimping in glue when working with such expensive pieces of rubber. When paying this much for rubber, I find compromising their performance and durability to save a few dimes on glue to be the much bigger waste of money.. IMO the best way to save money in this equation is to buy rubbers on sale, and to take all the care we can to get max performance and durability out of them. About whether rubbers can be reglued well, look for comments about rubber shrinkage in the threads about those rubbers. |
Posted By: GeneralSpecific
Date Posted: 02/25/2018 at 3:21pm
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Rubber cement on those soft sponges will definitely damage them. Just get Tearmender like Harmonic said. ------------- Blade - Xiom 36.5 ALX FL Forehand - Xiom Omega V Asia 2.0mm Backhand - Victas Curl P5V with Der Materialspezialist Firestorm Soft/Outkill 1.8mm sponge |
Posted By: HarmonicTT
Date Posted: 02/25/2018 at 7:45pm
| By the way guys I don't use rubber cement on new rubbers lol I use nittaku finezip water based glue and only on old dead rubbers I put some elmers on lol. Typically for backup blades or rubbers for example if my mains got damaged or got stolen etc |
Posted By: icontek
Date Posted: 02/25/2018 at 9:07pm
This. Rubber cement is only useful on modern rubber if you plan to leave it on a blade permanently. Even then, with modern rubbers wanting to shrink after the VOC from rubber cement, you may see shrinkage on the same blade. If you have 4 different blades with same or similar headsizes and want to freely swap rubber between them a few times, buy Revolution #3. ------------- http://bit.ly/vLMhuB" rel="nofollow - - RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42 |
ohwell wrote:Posted By: Dream1700
Date Posted: 02/26/2018 at 12:02pm
Revolution 3 glue costs $30 per 500ml. That's twice as much a Tear Mender. The videos at Megaspin suggest 3 layers per rubber, 2 layers per blade. 500ml will go fast. I will try Tear Mender first. I am guessing they are pretty much the same thing.
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Posted By: ohwell
Date Posted: 02/26/2018 at 2:36pm
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Like I said, they aren’t the same thing. (I’d also stick to tearmender if I thought the results I got with it were as good as R3.) But feel free to test for yourself, YMMV. Most people prefer to test TT glues in smaller amounts first. Getting 500ml of Revo 3 or anything else untested is a recipe for frustration. |
Posted By: NextLevel
Date Posted: 02/26/2018 at 2:52pm
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If you need to save money do it however you feel comfortable. I have never been able to make Tearmender work consistently and I buy enough rubbers at a discount that it makes sense not to save on quality glue. My preferred brand is Donic Varioclean. Rubber cement is also for people who like the feel and who do not might the shrinkage and stretching from the VOCs. I am making my best attempt to be not too denigrating of people who use rubber cement and cheap glues to work with $30 to $40 rubbers. But again, money means different things to different people. ------------- https://youtu.be/jhO4K_yFhh8?t=115" rel="nofollow - I like putting heavy topspin on the ball... Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
Posted By: ohwell
Date Posted: 02/26/2018 at 3:25pm
Getting less performance out of expensive rubbers because of bad glue is money too! Arguably much worse bang for the buck than spending < 3 % more (relative to rubber cost) on good glue. Your point holds regardless of what money means.. ;) |
Posted By: Baal
Date Posted: 02/26/2018 at 4:07pm
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Here is my experience with Revolution #3. It comes in different viscosities. I recommend the thickest one for ease of use or if you use Tenergy or other rubbers with large pores. Also, it does an unusually bad job of adhering rubbers to even lightly sealed blades. It does come off the rubber pretty easily, but if you want it to behave like the videos, be prepared to used multiple layers. I agree that if you spend a lot on rubber, don't go cheap on the glue! |
Posted By: rocketman222
Date Posted: 02/26/2018 at 4:36pm
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The key to using tearmender is atleast 2 thin layers on rubber and blade, otherwise the bond is too weak. ------------- http://www.bladesbycharlie.com/models/hinokighost" rel="nofollow - BBC Hinoki Ghost http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=74126&title=feedback-rocketman222" rel="nofollow - My Feedback |
Posted By: ohwell
Date Posted: 02/26/2018 at 4:48pm
Agreed that certain kinds of thick sealants can cause problems with it, for sure. (IMO the Revo 3 sealant is one of those, ironically.) No problem so far with thinner sealants like Minwax wipe-on poly and BBC’s non hardening sealant. Having used all 3 viscosities, I see what you mean. The thick is least unlike other glues. I prefer the normal viscosity even with decently large pores because of how well it levels, and how seamlessly the glue layers merge with one another, but YMMV. The thing that made me think it might be especially suited for the OP is how easily it comes off sponges (at least in normal viscosity). To me that’s a boon when regluing a lot. (Not just because glue builds up, but also because making mistakes when regluing can make removing the glue a must. I’ve ruined rubbers trying to remove glue lumps that held too tightly to the sponge.) Nittaku finezip does pretty well too, on that score. But there are lots of great TT glues out there if ease of removal from sponge isn’t a big concern. |
Posted By: icontek
Date Posted: 02/26/2018 at 10:03pm
When WTB glues first launched, I tried everything (BTY, Nittaku, DHS, Donic). Tearmender was better than some and not significantly worse than the best of them, Nittaku Finezip (as long as you got a fresh bottle, that hadn't sat on the shelves for months or even years). Fast forward a few years, and Revolution is hands down just plain better than any of the other WTB glues I tried. I no longer use Tearmender, because the cost savings aren't worth the extra hassles during application. ------------- http://bit.ly/vLMhuB" rel="nofollow - - RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42 |
Posted By: jonyer1980
Date Posted: 02/27/2018 at 1:42pm
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Finezip might be quite expensive but it's sponge friendly, thicker and sponge friendly. Besides, booster effect last longer than any glue since. ------------- Rosewood V FL Nittaku Fastarc G1-FH Stiga DNA Pro-S MAX BH Avoid any Butterfly stuff... at abusive prices. Raw power without control means nothing |
Posted By: tom
Date Posted: 02/27/2018 at 5:11pm
| " Besides, booster effect last longer than any glue since." Joyner - care to further explain your reference to booster effect? |
Posted By: tom
Date Posted: 02/27/2018 at 5:14pm
| I have used Rev#3 . normal on a newly boosted H3 still with a slight curl on a varnished blade and it sticks, 2 to 3 coats on the rubber and one on the blade. |
Posted By: Knuckle Ball
Date Posted: 03/02/2018 at 1:09am
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I have tried Fastarc S1 with Elmer's Rubber Cement on several blades. Reglueing no problems, on the rubber no problem so far. I mix a little lighter fluid on the Elmers. ------------- Blade: Rosewood NCT V FH: Dignics 05 Black BH: Moristo SP Red |
Posted By: bbkon
Date Posted: 03/02/2018 at 11:01am
removing glue buildup in brittle sponges are a problem you just cant rub any technique to clean the sponge? |
Posted By: Dream1700
Date Posted: 03/02/2018 at 11:19am
Example of using Tear Mender to pull off old glue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-gb1vOM1nk" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-gb1vOM1nk
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Posted By: bbkon
Date Posted: 03/03/2018 at 9:23am
T05 sponge is not brittle |