Springiest Combo: spinniest, fastest, most control

Stiga Energy wood, 3D extra, Violin, Acoustic, these kind of blades are super flexy

A few people here are pretty fast to knock balsa blades, a lot of the better long term loopers around where I live had decided on medium thickness balsa blades and Chinese rubbers totally indepentant of each other, that's just what they have found best over the years. But NO one any good uses a 10mm thick one. I haven't used the R1 but I'm assuming it's almost as fast as the Kool and that's too fast, if it's indeed alot slower than that then it might be ok, I highly reccomend the TSP 6.5 Fitter, it's only got a very thin Limba ply then a very thin layer of fibreglass (no carbon). The grain of the Balsa runs from face to face, it's the only line of blades that do that. It's a really good thing, although I'm almost the only person on the forum that uses it :) so no one else will know. haggisv uses the TSP 4.5 and I'm sure he has not only used almost every blade but can have any blade he wants :)

Right. It's just impossible to have fastest, spinniest and most control on the same blade. Flexy blades with high dwell are not that good for flat hitting. Light blades aren't either. For flat hitting I would choose something like a Clipper, Mazunov, Yasaka Max Wood, or Avalox 7ply. Soft rubbers aren't good for flat hitting either, so stay away from F3 Big Slam, etc. Best rubber for flat hitting  (for me) is Bryce Speed.

Offensive blades with very high dwell (not sure if "the maximum", but very high for sure) would be Yasaka Extra 3d and Bty Jonyer for example. But those are archetypical looper's blades not hitting blades. If you pair them with super soft rubbers you have a disaster, super springy catapult with no directional control, horrible for flat hitting.

Exactly. It's a matter of balance. The "*******est" blade or the "most ****" and "maximum ******" will result in a horrible blade and useless for playing in the real world. 

Its all solved thanks to Waldmeister post in MYTH: Tacky rubbers produce more spin.  Perhaps this thread should have been titled Longest Dwell Time Combo...but I cannot edit it....

isn't stretching softening?  And hardening compressing?  So if the rubbers left to beat up with balls..wouldn't they end up being just dead?!(returning to their original state...medium hardness)...even when the sponge is hard..I feel topsheet is soft...to create the speed therefore...

Sid, the whole point of different rubbers and blades isn't to say, this is the softest, this is the best rararar etc. It's all about matching the blade and rubber to each other and match them both to yourself (most important).

You can gain quite a few points per game by fine tuning this to suit your style, getting as detailed as the right hardness sponge for how hard you hit the ball, so you get the contact on the blade *just* right so that the ball plays consistantly each and every time you hit it. My game is improving all the time now, just because I understand more about the relationship between blade rubber and ball since I became a part time EJ :). But it could easily take 5 rubber tests and then 3 different hardness's of the selected rubber to find the right rubbers for any one blade and your style, that's just what you have to do if you want it just right. It's not so hard to select a blade since mostly you are just choosing a speed that your skill level can control, rubbers are more complex.

I'm not sure how the us ratings are below 1600 but

1600 ALL+
2000 OFF-
2200 OFF
2200+ OFF+

I think that would be a rough guide as to what is usable to almost it's full potential (for a conventional player), One of my little aprentices uses a soft feel Aralyte blade, I had a go with it tonight, it's quite nice but it's too slow for me, however it's great for him, he had _no chance_ to control that V1 I was having a hit with and played very badly with it, so it's all about finding the right combo for _you_