Tibhar clean tune?

cole_ely wrote: If I were going to use a product like that I would still remove the rubbers and wrap them up when not playng. If you leave them streched over the blade the whole time it will surely lessen the speed glue effect as the top will stretch. I would wrap them in plastic wrap so they could maintain their concave shape and keep the tension off the top when not in use.

              Then you would have about 20 layers of glue to remove when you come to re-tune your rubbers,just not practical

is their a review on speed optimzer 1??

no Cole you have to glue the sponge and the blade everytime you want to attach it to the blade

paulmac173 wrote: is their a review on speed optimzer 1??

Here is another little experience of mine with CTE:

I was a bit frustrated that CTE wasn't immediately coming in necessary amount when I stabbed it into the rubber so I squeezed it a bit too harsh while I was holding it up in the air and... whoops... the tip of the bottle flew off and I ended up with the puddle of CTE on my desk.

First, about 5-7 ml were on the FH rubber - I had to scoop it off but still the amount of CTE that stayed on the rubber after I spread it over was way too much (probably 2-3 times more than necessary).

Secondly, the other end of the puddle was UNDER the BH rubber which was lying on the desk next to the FH rubber - the result was upper region of the topsheet being pretty heavily soaked with CTE for about 10-20 secs; it developed "rubber blisters" making up an area about 7-8 cm long and 7-8 mm wide along the edge of the rubber. Also, some small thin and narrow splashes of CTE created kind of a cobweb in some other parts of the topsheet but judging by the feel, that didn't effect the rubber much.

Also because a lot of CTE was going to be wasted I had to scoop it off the desk and put it on BH rubber as well - again portion was probably about 2-3 times more than usual.

Forgot to mention: this was the third treatment for my Srivers FX, so all I needed was supposedly just 1 or 2 very thin layers.

Results: surprisingly good. First of all, blisters are going away (and they didn't really change the rubber much). Second, the speed effects are even better than after a regular treatment - however, I saw opinions that CTE-treated rubbers get gradually better after 3-4 treatments, so perhaps this is just the case confirming that point.

In any case, I am almost glad I spilled CTE. Hopefully, that will help me a bit at the upcoming tournament this Sunday... or not.

Jim T -- Yes you are finding out as I have that ample CTE is a lot of fun.  My technique doesn't match yours though!

JRSDallas wrote: Jim T -- Yes you are finding out as I have that ample CTE is a lot of fun.  My technique doesn't match yours though!   Using the sponge to put on thin layers is a complete waste of time in my opinion.  If you push the sponge down onto the rubber (to depress the valve) and squeeze the bottle while tilting it a bit, you can get good blob of CTE to come out so that you can lay down a thick wet layer.     Three of these wet layers are equal to 10 silly thin layers and your done in an afternoon!   Let the rubber dry over night and you're ready to go!    I don't have the patience to let the rubber keep sitting once I can see that it is dry enough to get it glued down on a blade.     I also retune with 2 - 3 thick wet layers.

Unfortunately tilting doesn't do much with my bottle - you really have to stab this thing into  the rubber for a couple of minutes until CTE starts to come out. That's OK but my experience with CTE led me to the following conclusion:

I think the next time I will simply open the bottle and scoop out a bit of CTE with a disposable spoon or with some other disposable thingie - then plop it on the rubbers, spread it evenly with the sponge and be done with it. Sounds like a good plan, huh?

Since the rubbers will curl up quite significantly with the inital CTE applications and you do not want CTE to get on the top sheet, do you guys tape down the rubbers as someone on the EEII thread suggested?  Would CTE ruin the top sheet permanently?

I "spill" CTE on purpose every time I apply it.  Just like applying speed glue.  And still barely enough after few layers.  I just can't imagine applying it with the sponge - would take alot longer to saturate.

Well here it is!

what do you use to get the cte off the topsheet?

where can you get tarpentine from then?

yeh thats exactly what i would like

Wooooow turpentine, i suggest not to go there...........:(

Flicker wrote: lildudejds wrote: you have to use a water based glue - if you want your paddle to pass the ENEZ test.   Isn't part of the reason for using the water-based glue because of the need to retune the rubbers periodically?  My understanding is that the water-based glue allow the subsequent layers of tuners to soak into the sponge more easily.   Thoughts?