|
|
|
Sealing Blade with Woodworking Varnish? |
Post Reply 
|
Page <123> |
| Author | ||
figgie 
Gold Member 
Joined: 01/28/2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1026 |
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote Reply
 Posted: 06/12/2009 at 3:52pm |
|
<--- mental note. Drink and swallow coke before reading hookshot's post. You bum!! You made me spray the coke all over my keyboard with that post!!!! LOL If it is any consolation, I did buy 6 sheets at one time :) |
||
 |
||
| Sponsored Links | ||
|
||
|
vader555
Super Member 
Joined: 06/26/2008 Location: Philippines Status: Offline Points: 231 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/13/2009 at 7:43am |
|
|
there is a blade sealing video in about.com
http://tabletennis.about.com/od/blades/a/sealing_blade.htm < id="gwProxy" ="">< ="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" =""> |
||
|
||
|
Hookshot
Gold Member
Joined: 07/24/2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1797 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/13/2009 at 9:18am |
|
|
He is a better table tennis player than he is a woodworker. His method will leave streaks. If I was not leaving for China soon, I would do one for him. There are a few problems with his method. He is putting it on thick which I consider OK, BUT, standing it up to dry will let it run down and can make an uneven coat top to bottom.
If you want a nice even thick coat, you want the blade FLAT while it dries so the finish will even itself out. I do this by sticking the handle in the side of a stack of magazines. Using a piece of paper to spread the finish does not give a smooth finish. A much nicer finish will be obtained by using 2 or 3 thin coats. A thin coat with Quick Dry Poly or Verithane will be dry in a couple hours. A rubbed on THIN coat will dry in one hour. 
|
||
|
||
|
tommyzai
Premier Member 
Senior Animator Joined: 02/17/2007 Location: Tucson AZ USA Status: Offline Points: 9289 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/13/2009 at 1:52pm |
|
|
My current sealing rating points are 12874.51.
|
||
|
For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected]
|
||
|
||
|
Hookshot
Gold Member
Joined: 07/24/2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1797 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/13/2009 at 3:09pm |
|
|
Tommy, I challenge you to a "Seal Off" in China!
|
||
|
||
|
tommyzai
Premier Member
Senior Animator Joined: 02/17/2007 Location: Tucson AZ USA Status: Offline Points: 9289 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/13/2009 at 3:19pm |
|
Would you mind if a couple hundred of my female students were involved? |
||
|
For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected]
|
||
|
||
|
Hookshot
Gold Member
Joined: 07/24/2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1797 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/13/2009 at 3:30pm |
|
|
Twist my arm! LOL
|
||
|
||
|
player87
Super Member
Joined: 04/04/2011 Status: Offline Points: 183 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/11/2011 at 6:25am |
|
|
I want to seal my Acoustic with Andro free seal (2 layers). Is that ok?
|
||
|
||
|
tommyzai
Premier Member
Senior Animator Joined: 02/17/2007 Location: Tucson AZ USA Status: Offline Points: 9289 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/11/2011 at 1:09pm |
|
|
I found that many of the professional sealants need extra amount or coats to cover because they tend to b light. You want even coverage no matter what. All the best!!
|
||
|
For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected]
|
||
|
||
|
player87
Super Member
Joined: 04/04/2011 Status: Offline Points: 183 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/11/2011 at 1:31pm |
|
|
Didn't get what you said.
|
||
|
||
|
ZingyDNA
Platinum Member 
Joined: 09/19/2008 Status: Offline Points: 2373 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/11/2011 at 1:59pm |
|
He meant sealers from professional TT manufacturers, like yours, are thinner than other wood sealers, so you need to apply multiple coats. |
||
|
||
|
assiduous
Platinum Member
Joined: 05/01/2011 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2521 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/11/2011 at 2:38pm |
|
|
I use fast dry minwax that I had left from when i did my garage.
I apply only 1 layer and apply it with 8-fold VIVA paper towel. Next day I sand with whatever automotive sandpaper I find in my garage, usually 1000 or higher. I sand very little, just to take the tiny microscopic grains out. The blades become BEAUTIFUL after the sealing. The wood gets that tan color and it looks so perfectly smooth and homogeneous. It looks like a very expensive blade. I love the finish of a blade after sealing. Even after a single layer, that has been sanded down some too, I have never experienced any splintering of any form afterwards.
|
||
|
puppy412 : Sorry man, I don't mean to sound disrespectful, but I know that more training will make me better, I don't need to come here to figure that out
|
||
|
||
|
Tinykin_2
Silver Member 
Joined: 01/30/2009 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 540 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/11/2011 at 7:50pm |
|
|
In the old days, very few players bothered with varnish as the VOC glue also sealed the blade.
|
||
|
Member of Single Ply Club. Shakehand, Kauri wood by American Hinoki, 1-ply 7mm. FH> Gambler Reflectoid. BH> Yasaka Mark V
|
||
|
||
|
tommyzai
Premier Member
Senior Animator Joined: 02/17/2007 Location: Tucson AZ USA Status: Offline Points: 9289 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/11/2011 at 9:53pm |
|
|
I know a guy who rubs the blade with the grease off his forehead. The problem is the rubber usually flies off in matches and knocks the opponent unconscious.
|
||
|
For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected]
|
||
|
||
|
player87
Super Member
Joined: 04/04/2011 Status: Offline Points: 183 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/12/2011 at 5:00am |
|
Thanks. The main issue for me is not to loose unique characteristics of the blade. That's why I am asking about it.
|
||
|
||
|
Imago
Premier Member
Joined: 07/19/2009 Location: Sofia Status: Offline Points: 5897 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/12/2011 at 5:18am |
|
|
W/b floor varnish is OK with me. I buy a bucket, varnish the floor twice and always keep 2-3 bottles of 100 ml for the blades. A gallon is about $40 around here.
|
||
|
||
|
tommyzai
Premier Member
Senior Animator Joined: 02/17/2007 Location: Tucson AZ USA Status: Offline Points: 9289 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/12/2011 at 2:51pm |
|
|
That's right!! Just be sure not to walk on the blade for 24-hours. LOL
|
||
|
For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected]
|
||
|
||
|
Hookshot
Gold Member
Joined: 07/24/2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1797 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/12/2011 at 3:02pm |
|
|
Imago,
Read the can please and see what it is made from. Poly-U maybe?
 |
||
|
||
|
tommyzai
Premier Member
Senior Animator Joined: 02/17/2007 Location: Tucson AZ USA Status: Offline Points: 9289 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/12/2011 at 3:04pm |
|
|
Listen to Hookshot. He knows. After all, he varnishes his wooden leg semi-annually. :-).
|
||
|
For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected]
|
||
|
||
|
Imago
Premier Member
Joined: 07/19/2009 Location: Sofia Status: Offline Points: 5897 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/12/2011 at 3:38pm |
|
Self-webbing (?) acrylate emulsions, polyurethane emulsions, teflon. Water based.
|
||
|
||
|
Hookshot
Gold Member
Joined: 07/24/2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1797 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06/12/2011 at 3:51pm |
|
|
If I don't varnish with Poly-U, my leg warps when in S. China.
|
||
|
||
|
Davey
Member 
Joined: 11/22/2010 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 70 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12/14/2011 at 1:53pm |
|
|
use a sealer like any of the brands- Joola do a great light one. why use normal thick heavy wood varnish designed to protect against rain and weather or at the very least to protect wooden floors-DONT CHEAP OUT ON A SEALER AFTER SPENDING THE MONEY ON A BLADE ITS A FALSE ECONOMY AND VERY FOOLISH I wouldnt dream of destroying a new blade with thick varnish plus it would weigh ALOT more.
|
||
|
David
|
||
|
||
|
Hookshot
Gold Member
Joined: 07/24/2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1797 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12/14/2011 at 3:06pm |
|
|
Obviously you are not a woodworker. There are many methods to use any varnish besides a brush or paint roller. A little use of the serch function will bring up some of these methods. Also, just read page one of this thread. I have put one here, used by TommyZia and I. He and I have done hundreds of blades.
Seal ALL blades. One coat of Poly-U will not change a blade. My fav is Minwax Poly Quick Dry, Satin. Dip the corner of a lint free rag in it, rub it into the wood. Then wipe it off, let dry. If it is very open grain wood, use two or three coats. Apply about 10 minutes apart, then dry for one hour. Done. You "might" be able to feel a little difference on an ALL- or DEF blade. I can't tell you. I do not use slow blades. OFF- to OFF+, you can not feel the difference with one or two coats. I have done tests by comparing an unsealed blade to a sealed blade many times. Bouncing a ball on the bare blades, (OFF- or faster) two coats gave a "slightly higher" sound on "some" of the blades. With rubbers on the blade, (blind test) NO ONE could pick the sealed blade. I have done tests with up to 10 coats of Poly-U. Varathane works the same. Both brands make water or mineral based finish. When dry, both are water proof. Water based gives a crystal clear finish while mineral based adds a slight golden glo to the wood. If you use many coats for a "table top" finish, you must "lightly" sand with #320 to break the shine so the glue will stick better. With one or two coats, the glue holds fine and will stay on the sponge 95% of the time when the rubber is removed. I would not use "Made for Table Tennis" sealers as they do not even tell you what they are made of and they cost too much. Tests by Woodworkers Magazine have shown Poly-U to be the strongest, most scratch resistant, waterproof finish commonally available. A small can will do dozens of blades. If you use water based glue, remember to seal the edges of the blade. Edited by Hookshot - 12/14/2011 at 4:09pm |
||
|
||
|
bbkon
Premier Member
Joined: 04/19/2005 Location: Afghanistan Status: Offline Points: 7260 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12/15/2011 at 12:02pm |
|
but that would render the blade ilegal since the outer ply must look and feel like wood
|
||
|
||
|
Hookshot
Gold Member
Joined: 07/24/2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1797 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12/15/2011 at 3:49pm |
|
|
This is my fav but I use other Minwax products also.The rub on Poly works well also.
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/interior-clear-protective-finishes/minwax-fastdrying-polyurethane I think this is the one Tommy uses. It is water based. Can be had in clear or satin. http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=70 Edited by Hookshot - 12/15/2011 at 3:54pm |
||
|
||
|
Hookshot
Gold Member
Joined: 07/24/2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1797 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12/15/2011 at 4:04pm |
|
|
I like the gloss. Some think the semi or satin gives better adhesion but I have not found that. If you use enough coats to make a smooth finish with any of them, it will need to be lightly broken with #400 or #600 sand paper for the glue to grip. I think the satin or semi look is "IN" the finish, not on the surface.
|
||
|
||
|
Cho!
Super Member
Joined: 05/23/2011 Location: Kansas City, MO Status: Offline Points: 289 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12/17/2011 at 5:03pm |
|
|
How does Spar Urethane compare to Poly U? I Just got my new blade in the mail 30 minutes ago and found a can of both Spar and Poly in my basement. Which would work better for singly ply hinoki?
|
||
|
Jpen: Senkoh-1 w. Xiom Vega Pro
SH: Expert All+ w. TG3 Neo & Illumina |
||
|
||
|
tommyzai
Premier Member
Senior Animator Joined: 02/17/2007 Location: Tucson AZ USA Status: Offline Points: 9289 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12/17/2011 at 5:25pm |
|
|
I use: http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarestore.com/60-352-clear-finish-polyurethane/varathane-polyurethane-diamond-semi-gloss-620633.aspx
But in Satin finish. Blade Sealing by Tommy Zai *Prepare blade first. If you have to lightly sand, do it
carefully with a fine gauge sponge sanding block-DRY. If you wet-sand a bare
wood blade it might soften the wood and could deform it. Do not round off blade
edges. Use rubbing alcohol to clean. Let dry (a few minutes). Now you're ready
. . . VARATHANE DIAMOND INTERIOR WOOD FINISH-SATIN (not
gloss)-#2002-61. 1. Stir can well without shaking (causes air bubbles). 2. Dip the corner (twisted or folded up a little to provide
a nice little flat area) of clean, dry cotton cloth* and quickly rub the sealer
into the blade and with a technique that covers evenly. I go in circles
starting at the center of the face of the blade and work my way to the outer
edges, then wipe along the side edge (perimeter) of the blade where the edge
tape will go, then quickly return to the face of the blade to wipe off any
spill over from the edge sealing with some light vertical strokes from handle
out over top of blade. You might want to stroke a nice even level line across
the top of the handle where the bottom edge of the rubber will go; however, I
think it looks better and strengthens the blade to seal the wings/shoulder.
Some prefer to use a sponge or china bristle brush when applying, but that leaves
a heavy coat and/or streaks of sealant. THAT IS NO GOOD IMO. The trick is to
rub the sealant INTO the blade, then gently wipe off the excess with the cloth.
3. Wait one hour, then polish with a clean dry cloth. 4. Repeat. 5. Repeat a third time ONLY if the blade is like bare porous
wood or if you want a stiffer lacquered effect (I have over sealed and made a
mess. My blade looked like an over protected night table . . . hard as a rock
and too thick). Luckily, I managed to fix this by sanding with a fine gauge wet
sanding sponge and it took hours to repair my disaster. But only do this if you
mess up, which you shouldn't. However, I should mention many of the Chinese
players are over-sealing to stiffen the blade. Some call over-sealing
"lacquering." There are also other product and techniques
specifically designed for lacquering, but I recommend using Varathane and
adjusting the number of layers. 6. Let harden overnight. 7. Affix your rubbers! I use glue sheets and NEVER get
splinters when removing!!!!!! *Use a cotton cloth or an expensive paper towel like Bounty
that will not leave lint of fall apart and get stuck to your wet sealer. I use
an old pair of 100% cotton boxer shorts. :-). I don't remember who turned me on to this Varathane, but it was on MYTT. Edited by tommyzai - 12/17/2011 at 5:27pm |
||
|
For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected]
|
||
|
||
|
pokerpete
Silver Member
Joined: 09/05/2006 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 797 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 02/08/2012 at 10:11pm |
|
|
i want to try sealing a spare blade..... what do you guys recommend as far as water based or oil based?
i have access to full line of min-wax products at home depot im thinking water based, satin, fast dry, wipe on, by minwax........ but wondering if the oil base one will hold up better in the long run?
|
||
|
Blade:Stiga Sense 7.6/ Timo ZLC FH: Tenergy 05FX BH: Tibhar Q5 Sound |
||
|
||
|
Hookshot
Gold Member
Joined: 07/24/2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1797 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 02/08/2012 at 10:16pm |
|
|
Water based and mineral based are both very tough. You will not be able to tell the difference when done.
The mineral based gives a "small" golden hue compared to the crystal clear finish of the water based. This shows most when you have very pretty wood.
Read the methods in this thread and use the "TEE shirt" method. |
||
|
||
|
Post Reply
|
Page <123> |
Tweet
|
| Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |
MyTableTennis.NET is the trading name of Alex Table Tennis Ltd. |
Topic Options
Hookshot wrote: