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Limba wood vs. Hinoki wood?

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    Posted: 01/29/2010 at 9:41am
I have a question regarding the outer ply of a blade for loopers.  Which wood type is better for looping:  limba or hinoki?

Thanks.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/29/2010 at 10:19am
Subjective - depends on which "feel" you prefer.
 
Personally, as a shakehand player I like Limba. Hinoki seems to lose some of it's wonderful feel when you put it in thinner plies.
 
Compare a friends 1 ply JPEN with any 5-7 ply hinoki blade - on the 1 ply you have something that's almost magical (soft, fast, forgiving yet precise) on the plywood you feel the resin/layup of the plywood.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wealthweb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/29/2010 at 10:25am
Originally posted by FireHorse FireHorse wrote:

I have a question regarding the outer ply of a blade for loopers.� Which wood type is better for looping:� limba or hinoki?Thanks.FireHorse


I don't know about limba. But I have the fastest blade made by Butterfly named Haruvatart Jpen blade with Hinoki outer ply and ZL carbon. The speed rating is 10.2 which is even higher than 10 of my KTS blade.

The Haruvatart ZL carbon blade comes with two hybrid layers of Carbon and ZL Fiber which results in great speed and holding the ball a little longer than normal carbon making the production of heavy topspin easier.

It is one hell of a very offensive blade good for attacker and looper and I am quite happy playing TT with it. I believe that the shakehand blade equivalence of Haruvatart is Amultart. Both blades allow for deadly loop and controlled drive.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FireHorse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/01/2010 at 10:56am
Originally posted by icontek icontek wrote:

Subjective - depends on which "feel" you prefer.
 
Personally, as a shakehand player I like Limba. Hinoki seems to lose some of it's wonderful feel when you put it in thinner plies.
 
Compare a friends 1 ply JPEN with any 5-7 ply hinoki blade - on the 1 ply you have something that's almost magical (soft, fast, forgiving yet precise) on the plywood you feel the resin/layup of the plywood.


I'd like to have the soft feel.  I prefer Limba outer ply too.  Currently, I use Timo Boll ALC which I don't know what the outer ply of this blade is but I know that it's not Limba.  I do not have problem with this blade looping but I think I'll try one with Limba outer ply to see if it's a difference.

Thanks.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FireHorse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/01/2010 at 10:59am
Originally posted by wealthweb wealthweb wrote:


I don't know about limba. But I have the fastest blade made by Butterfly named Haruvatart Jpen blade with Hinoki outer ply and ZL carbon. The speed rating is 10.2 which is even higher than 10 of my KTS blade.

The Haruvatart ZL carbon blade comes with two hybrid layers of Carbon and ZL Fiber which results in great speed and holding the ball a little longer than normal carbon making the production of heavy topspin easier.

It is one hell of a very offensive blade good for attacker and looper and I am quite happy playing TT with it. I believe that the shakehand blade equivalence of Haruvatart is Amultart. Both blades allow for deadly loop and controlled drive.


Thanks.  I like Amultart too but with my tight budget now, I think I will have to wait before attempting to buy anything that expensive.  I see that there will be Innerforce series that I heard that most of them will have Limba as outer ply so I'll buy one of them one day.  Right now, I'm pretty happy with Timo Boll ALC so I'll stick with it for a while.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 729 FX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/01/2010 at 10:51pm
For me, it is also subjective.
 
Generally, to my knowledge, for a shakehand player Limba has the "feel" which Hinoki seems to lose some when the blades comprised of thinner plies.
 
For a Jpener, a 1 ply JPEN has the feel, IMO; like fellow member said earlier, it 's almost magical (soft, fast, forgiving yet precise) .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/02/2010 at 1:13am
Boll ALC is a great blade.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FireHorse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/02/2010 at 1:32am
Originally posted by Baal Baal wrote:

Boll ALC is a great blade.  


Yeah, I think so too.  But I want to try something else with Limba outer ply.  I'm thinking about trading it with Holy Crown.  Do you know anything about Holy Crown blade?  I believe that its outer ply is Limba.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SLee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/02/2010 at 1:35am
the mizutani jun blade has limba outer plies if anyone is interested
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 729 FX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/02/2010 at 4:41am
Not sure if Holy Crown's outer is Limba.
 
The Holy Crown is Butterfly addition to their high-tech Uniaxial Light Carbon blades. These blades feature a unique construction process such that all the carbon fibers are pointing in the same direction. The result is blades that are lighter in weight than traditional carbon blades. The Holy Crown has a medium feel, a large sweet spot, excellent control, and is an excellent choice for the modern all-round attacking style of play.
(Note : Excerpts from Butterfly's Online)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FireHorse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/02/2010 at 9:39am
Originally posted by 729 FX 729 FX wrote:

Not sure if Holy Crown's outer is Limba.
 


I read at one post that Holy Crown's outer ply is limba.  It doesn't look the same as the outer ply of Korbel blade in the picture so I think you could be right.

I probably will keep the Timo Boll ALC and then maybe will try to get one of the Innerforce blade which I think most of them have Limba outer ply.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/02/2010 at 2:19pm
I like limba...best feeling for me...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MildSeven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/03/2010 at 11:41pm
Limba is soft but also slow. In most offensive blades it is paired with a stiff center ply and/or composite material. Hinoki is an oddity in that it is physically hard, but vibrates as if it was softer. It is fast and has a sensation of catching the ball and catapulting it out that no other wood I have used has.

You can make good looping blades out of either.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote addoydude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/04/2010 at 12:13am
hinoki is physically hard? how so? my hardness test is to try to mark the surface with a fingernail. hinoki is readily marked -- it is soft. A hard surface wood is something like White Ash, resists the fingernail test much better than hinoki.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote walleyeguy7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/04/2010 at 12:33am
the boll alc has koto outer ply, which is stiffer than limba. its used commonly on higher quality 7 ply looping blades, has a nice solid feel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MildSeven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/04/2010 at 12:48am
Originally posted by addoydude addoydude wrote:

hinoki is physically hard? how so? my hardness test is to try to�mark the surface with a fingernail. hinoki is readily marked -- it is soft. A hard surface wood is something like White Ash, resists the fingernail test much better than hinoki.


Believe what you want to. Makes no difference to my life.

edit - I also don't know of white ash being commonly used in table tennis rackets. Hinoki/cypress is definitely on the harder side of woods used in table tennis and limba is definitely one of the softer ones.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote addoydude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/04/2010 at 1:09am
Nevermind what I believe.  But it would be wise to let facts make a difference to your life. I'm just saying...
 
White Ash is the surface wood of Nittaku Violin. A more common hard wood is Koto.  Hinoki is probably the softest wood used for top layer. Balsa is softer but it's not used for the top.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TBS9x Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/04/2010 at 1:26am
OMG...I've heard this type of question so many times : '' is this better or that... '' :-< You should know when it comes to wood, the feeling is very decisive, and that depends on you, if you like stiff, less vibration or soft, etc...But anyway, doesn't Timo Boll Spirit have a Limba top layer ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnny89atc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/04/2010 at 5:12am
Originally posted by TBS9x TBS9x wrote:

OMG...I've heard this type of question so many times : '' is this better or that... '' :-< You should know when it comes to wood, the feeling is very decisive, and that depends on you, if you like stiff, less vibration or soft, etc...But anyway, doesn't Timo Boll Spirit have a Limba top layer ?


No, I think that it has koto outer ply like the Timo Boll ALC...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote metallikviper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/04/2010 at 11:31am
I think the TBS has Limba as the second ply (below the ALC layer) and the top ply being Koto with a Kiri core. I also have a blade called Hunter Pyro which has Koto outer, Walnut inner and Kiri center. It is fast (rated OFF+) but still has decent dwell for a good looping game.

http://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=7194
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Best99 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/04/2010 at 9:07pm
koto outer ply...
Blade: Timo Boll ALC 92 g.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Best99 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/04/2010 at 9:08pm
Originally posted by FireHorse FireHorse wrote:

Originally posted by icontek icontek wrote:

Subjective - depends on which "feel" you prefer.
 
Personally, as a shakehand player I like Limba. Hinoki seems to lose some of it's wonderful feel when you put it in thinner plies.
 
Compare a friends 1 ply JPEN with any 5-7 ply hinoki blade - on the 1 ply you have something that's almost magical (soft, fast, forgiving yet precise) on the plywood you feel the resin/layup of the plywood.


I'd like to have the soft feel.  I prefer Limba outer ply too.  Currently, I use Timo Boll ALC which I don't know what the outer ply of this blade is but I know that it's not Limba.  I do not have problem with this blade looping but I think I'll try one with Limba outer ply to see if it's a difference.

Thanks.

FireHorse 



It's koto...
Blade: Timo Boll ALC 92 g.
Forehand: Tenergy 05 2.1 mm. (black)
Backhand: Tenergy 05 2.1 mm. (red).
Perfect loops
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ejmaster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/05/2010 at 3:42pm

limba favours shakehand play. and hinoki, korean jpen play.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote viktorovich Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/06/2010 at 4:13am
M.Maze --> Limba.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ichini Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/11/2010 at 1:53am
Hi everybody,I just wanna know whether kiri or ayous is better of as a core veneer.Thanks in advance for your advice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote loop+loop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/11/2010 at 2:01am
Limba
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ichini Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/11/2010 at 2:06am
Originally posted by loop+loop loop+loop wrote:

Limba
 
I don't think limba is used as a core veneer.anyone else?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote loop+loop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/11/2010 at 2:46am
Originally posted by FireHorse FireHorse wrote:

I have a question regarding the outer ply of a blade for loopers.  Which wood type is better for looping:  limba or hinoki?

Thanks.

FireHorse
Limba
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ichini Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/11/2010 at 3:21am
Originally posted by loop+loop loop+loop wrote:

Originally posted by FireHorse FireHorse wrote:

I have a question regarding the outer ply of a blade for loopers.  Which wood type is better for looping:  limba or hinoki?

Thanks.

FireHorse
Limba

OK,at least I get what you mean now.btw,do you by any chance know whether Kiri or ayous is a better core veneer?TIA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tompy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/11/2010 at 5:35am
The difference between Limba and koto in hardness is minimal but koto has a straighter grain, Limba more curvy. Hinoki and spruce also has straight (and long) grains. Woods with a straight grain are faster and more crisp for how hard/soft they are. In a lamination grains of following plies are orientated perpendicular to each other (with some exceptions like Nexy Lissom which has three center plies lengthwise to the handle with softer inner ply harder outerplies for the (3 ply) core).
Two thin plies with straight grain like spruce and koto the higher tensile strength works both direktions instead of unidirectional making this combination harder and faster. Hinoki five plies is also much harder then one ply hinoki. The curlier Limba grain makes it a less tense wood and therefor for being not particularly soft it has a longer dwelltime (which can favor looping) then Koto making the feel softer/more dwell.




Edited by tompy - 10/11/2010 at 5:43am
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