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Restoring your topsheet with oil (video)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kolev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/04/2010 at 7:01am
Originally posted by pdotec pdotec wrote:

Anyone add oil to tenergy 64?  My sheet is pretty dead now and I'm tempted to try it.

Yes I did-one thick layer olive oil. It definitely became gripper, but since then I suspect it had become a tad heavier. BTW, I am talking about a T64 which I have since April 2009 and it still plays OK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bull_harrier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/04/2010 at 7:51am
I can't remember the name of the stuff but a guy I know put one layer of this green (green as in the catchword for environmental) stuff on a sheet of old rubber and it's grip came back quite well. It was something he put on remote control car tires to restore its grip and traction. I'll try to look it up and get back about it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bull_harrier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/04/2010 at 2:23pm
The stuff is called Simple Green
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stiltt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/04/2010 at 2:33pm
www.simplegreen.com    Thanks for the info bull, I'll try it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bull_harrier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/04/2010 at 3:31pm
Cool, let me know what you think fatt. He only applied one layer to the rubber just as a heads up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/04/2010 at 3:56pm
What I do rather regularly (once every week or two) with my working rubbers is this:

Squeeze one-two drops of GooGone citrus oil based cleaner (can be had at Walmart for 4-5 bucks per small bottle) on a piece of lint-free slightly wet paper towel, then wipe the rubber with it. Let it sit for a minute, then wipe it off with regular wet paper towel. Then same with the other side.

First, it helps to get rid of the accumulated dirt.

Secondly, it freshens up your topsheet without making it heavy - I do not go for real full absorption, just for the cleanup-refresh of the very thin top layer of the rubber.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote minicd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/04/2010 at 4:27pm
LOL.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote debraj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/04/2010 at 6:19pm
most oils are is great.... and i think kenetix is nothing but oil and water solution.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Egghead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/04/2010 at 8:26pm
Originally posted by sugengz sugengz wrote:

I put parafin oil on topsheet of my Neo H3C 40degree, just like the video on the first post....
After one time application, and let it dry (more precisely soaked), and the topsheet become softer and more elastic... Become a little bit tacky, but not as tacky as it was when I open it for the first time from the plastic pack.
It play much better than the brand new.
When I remove it from the blade, the rubber is dome a lot, it seems like the topsheet expand...
Pretty tough to reglue it with that condition. FYI: I use Haifu WBG.
After reglue, it still plays very good.
Over all, after the tuning on topsheet using Parafin oil, my Neo H3C, softer more elastic, no significant change on speed, but spin much better....
Worth to try (of course at your own risk... :D )

I get the lamp oil from Walmart. For 6 dollars, you can have 1L lamp oilLOL; I applied the lamp oil (kerosene base) on my H2 topsheet. The topsheet does not expand, but the rubber does become soft. However, the smell is a dead giveaway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thaidog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/05/2010 at 2:42am
I just put a small layer of olive oil on my old spin art... can't wait to see how it ends up!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote minicd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/05/2010 at 1:38pm
chemistry 101, OIL AND WATER DONT MIXED!!
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote minicd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/05/2010 at 1:41pm

just go with trial and errors, specially if you have alot of rubbers to spare,  commercial chemicals, are always very corrosive, thats why they are commercial grade, im sure that alot of these cleaner like googone and commercial cleaners and oil will work, but im sure you will shorten your rubber life drasticlly. been there done that,,, you need something to clean and maintain the clean and new rubber feel, specially when you just broken in your rubber.

 
again let me repeat, CHEMISTRY 101,  water and oil doesnt mixe..... LOL, that cracked me up.


Edited by minicd - 08/05/2010 at 1:45pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thaidog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/05/2010 at 5:49pm
Well the oil soaked in to the spin art topsheet last night... it left a little marking where the oil was thicker... I used a little spin max and it cleared it up. No noticeable increase in the tackiness of the topsheet however... but spin art is really midly tacky so that could be the reason. Now to go hit some with it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stiltt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/05/2010 at 6:19pm
hey thaidog did you ever try ultra pure lamp oil?

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/productdetails.aspx?sku=998005822


http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/ultra-pure-lamp-oil-255232/
I use that one and it works beyond my expectations on old 729 sheets that my buddies use in my garage. The only problem is you need to do it any time you play.

The advantage of the method is it is SO CHEAP!

Also it is the best to boost the rubber by applying it to the sponge (3 ml twice). It is not detectable by enez (I tried). http://borkoandson.com/lampoil/msds_ultra_pure_lamp_oil.pdf
The reason is VOC are SOOOOO LOOOOOW

Originally posted by Safety Data Sheet Safety Data Sheet wrote:

"CALIFORNIA AIR RESOURCES BOARD Title 17, Article 2, Section 94510 Consumer Products:
This product is VOC exempt by 94510 (d)(1) as it has a vapor pressure below 0.1 mm Hg at 20°C."

But you knew all this did not you?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thaidog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/06/2010 at 12:05am
Well spin art played judt fine today... so tonight I took out one of my unused oil brushes and painted a nice thick coat of olive oil.. no telling how long it will take to dry! Could be interesting to see if there is any change in tackiness this time.

Would adding oil to a topsheet remove oxidation marks? If so it could be a nive way to clean up Apollo sheets!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nicefrog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/06/2010 at 1:38pm
I had a go at something I've been thinking about to repair a rubber today. I took a heat gun and quickly passed it over a old marked oxidized Neo that had been left out without a cover for a year. Just pass the heat gun over it enough to make the topsheet shiny again. Be careful not to get it too hot so just do a small part at a time, if it gets too hot it will separate from the sponge and bubble. By the way I inadvertently figured out how to fix bubbles at the same time, since I did make one but if you put a book over the rubber while it's still hot the glue will reset perfectly, so you can use this to fixed bubbled rubbers also.

Once the topsheet was shiny again I put 3 layers of olive oil, then cleaned it with foam rubber cleaner, now it's really nice again



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stiltt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/06/2010 at 1:58pm
Originally posted by nicefrog nicefrog wrote:

I had a go at something I've been thinking about to repair a rubber today. I took a heat gun and quickly passed it over a old marked oxidized Neo that had been left out without a cover for a year. Just pass the heat gun over it enough to make the topsheet shiny again. Be careful not to get it too hot so just do a small part at a time, if it gets too hot it will separate from the sponge and bubble. By the way I inadvertently figured out how to fix bubbles at the same time, since I did make one but if you put a book over the rubber while it's still hot the glue will reset perfectly, so you can use this to fixed bubbled rubbers also.

Once the topsheet was shiny again I put 3 layers of olive oil, then cleaned it with foam rubber cleaner, now it's really nice again



I am somehow convinced that somebody really inventive will come soon with a method to take a few microns of rubber off the topsheet to see a brand new sheet again.

The way I  imagine it is a hot roll covered with very fine sand paper. That roll will rotate fast while pressing on the topsheet and advancing slowly with a liquid lubricating the topsheet applied generously before.



For sure with the prices of rubbers going up we'll have to get something like that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nicefrog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/06/2010 at 2:14pm
hha, this sheet actually looks pretty much as good as new, I often wet sand the old top layer off sheets and play with them just fine but they aren't super tacky once you do that, I was never able to get that fine a polish like a fresh moulded sheet. Now I can sand the dead layer off and then make them tacky again with the heat :). I actually have a very old sheet of H2 blue sponge that I sanded so that the top sheet is veeeeeery thin which I will make shiny and tacky again. Home made pro rubber :p 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote stiltt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/06/2010 at 2:23pm
Originally posted by nicefrog nicefrog wrote:

hha, this sheet actually looks pretty much as good as new, I often wet sand the old top layer off sheets and play with them just fine but they aren't super tacky once you do that, I was never able to get that fine a polish like a fresh moulded sheet. Now I can sand the dead layer off and then make them tacky again with the heat :). I actually have a very old sheet of H2 blue sponge that I sanded so that the top sheet is veeeeeery thin which I will make shiny and tacky again. Home made pro rubber :p 
this is so valuable information. thanks for sharing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nicefrog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/06/2010 at 3:31pm
I've been working on this some more since my last post, currently I've made my "pro sheet" of H2 so sticky I can't even touch it lol or my finger gets stuck on it like glue and its shinnnny like a mirror. But the key to everything seems to be, once you ahve melted the sheet so that it's glossy, once it's coole a bit then rub some olive oil into it, that seems to condition it so it's not so crazy sticky. I actually got this one so hot to melt the scratches out of it from my heavy sanding without it unglueing, hot enough to be difficult to hang onto the sponge actually.

edit: wowoooo woops, I think I've destablized this rubber :) it's just turned into glue, bad bad hah I need to figure out what to put on it to make it set hard again :)


Edited by nicefrog - 08/06/2010 at 3:56pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/06/2010 at 3:57pm
That is so wack... Smile and so illegal, LOL Thumbs Down

If Sharara read this topic he would have plotzed! Angry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nicefrog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/06/2010 at 4:31pm
hhah, I'm not going to use a dodgy rubber in competition :). Although I have used sanded rubbers, but then again when I did it was probably legal and even now, it's just wear and tear :D. 

I can't even get this thing unstuck off my hand, all that easily, it's just silly. But just in case he does read it, lest jsut be done with fast rubbers and more spin and have the 38mm ball!? back :P then there's more than enough of everything straight up on a $5 rubber :)?


Edited by nicefrog - 08/06/2010 at 4:33pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thaidog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/06/2010 at 10:26pm
What kind of sandpaper are you using? Also what kind of "heat gun" are you using?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stiltt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/07/2010 at 12:06am
Originally posted by Thaidog Thaidog wrote:

What kind of sandpaper are you using? Also what kind of "heat gun" are you using?
i was about to ask Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Egghead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/08/2010 at 1:34am
my H2 was as hard as a brick, but it is very very playable now. However, I found that it is hard to clear with water LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rupertgriffin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/08/2010 at 8:47am
Saw that the Simple Green stuff might work so I tried Mr Muscle Orange.
Sprayed an old omega 3 and wiped it off straight away. Magically the grip came back! Thanks guys :D! I recommend it. It says it has orange oil in it too

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nicefrog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/08/2010 at 1:27pm
Originally posted by fatt fatt wrote:

Originally posted by Thaidog Thaidog wrote:

What kind of sandpaper are you using? Also what kind of "heat gun" are you using?
i was about to ask Wink

Just normal wet and dry sandpaper, and a normal heat gun, you know the ones you use to remove paint with and various of jobs :). I fixed one rubber that had only been sanded with super fine paper in the past with just some very slight heat gun action it was shiny like new, but the other one that was heavily sanded, to get that smoth again I needed a lot of heat to re-melt the topsheet shiny and it somehow unvulcanised the rubber and made it liek glue :P so don't do that. The first one turned out perfect how ever :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stiltt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/08/2010 at 2:26pm
Originally posted by nicefrog nicefrog wrote:

Originally posted by fatt fatt wrote:

Originally posted by Thaidog Thaidog wrote:

What kind of sandpaper are you using? Also what kind of "heat gun" are you using?
i was about to ask Wink

Just normal wet and dry sandpaper, and a normal heat gun, you know the ones you use to remove paint with and various of jobs :). I fixed one rubber that had only been sanded with super fine paper in the past with just some very slight heat gun action it was shiny like new, but the other one that was heavily sanded, to get that smoth again I needed a lot of heat to re-melt the topsheet shiny and it somehow unvulcanised the rubber and made it liek glue :P so don't do that. The first one turned out perfect how ever :)
 
the one at $35.99 might be useful (?)
 
 
I am going to the home depot in an hour to buy pvc to make a catch ball net so I might buy that guy as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nicefrog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/08/2010 at 6:14pm
Yep that's a pretty normal looking heat gun :), but that's almost a sheet of expensive rubber :). Then again you'll use it for heaps of stuff. I lost count of how many times I've used mine over the years. Stipping paint/tar. Heating metal so interference fits go on easy etc. Don't forget to be gentle on the rubber or you might end up with a sheet of black glue like my second attempt :P, best to have it on high heat then just flick it over the rubber, on spot at a time until you see it go juussssssst glossy, then let the rubber cool a bit then do another bit etc

Edited by nicefrog - 08/08/2010 at 6:16pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stiltt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/10/2010 at 7:12pm
Originally posted by nicefrog nicefrog wrote:

......

Just normal wet and dry sandpaper, and a normal heat gun, you know the ones you use to remove paint with and various of jobs :). I fixed one rubber that had only been sanded with super fine paper in the past with just some very slight heat gun action it was shiny like new, but the other one that was heavily sanded, to get that smoth again I needed a lot of heat to re-melt the topsheet shiny and it somehow unvulcanised the rubber and made it liek glue :P so don't do that. The first one turned out perfect how ever :)



http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310249522308

I'll be on nicefrog's steps in a few days trying to revive a 3 years old rubber that stayed in the air in my garage for 3 years. It is a 729 rubber that I bought $2.45 from eacheng.net (I had purchased 48 of them for a class).
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