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    Posted: 03/26/2011 at 11:49am

i have just bought one of this blade. do you think it's good to use stiga neos tacky with this blade? or stiga boost tc?

this rubbers are my current rubber. i'm kinda having difficulty to control the stiga boost tc in my forehand. do you think i should use the same rubber for FH and BH?  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ztec Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/26/2011 at 11:54am
If you're having difficulty controlling the rubber, why would you get such a fast blade? If you're having trouble controlling a fast rubber, use a slower blade. Or if you're going to keep the faster blade, use a slower rubber. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EZRO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/26/2011 at 12:04pm
MC1 is a very fast blade with good control, but if your having a trouble with controlling it, two option's get a slower rubber or get rid of it and get a ALL+ or OFF- blade Tongue
Blade: Butterfly Photino and Keyshot light
FH: DONIC Baracuda / Tenergy 64 and 05
BH: 802-40/1 and Raystorm
DONIC BURN ALL+
FH Kokutaku 868 tacky
BH Kokutaku 110 Medium Pip
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluebucket Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/26/2011 at 3:10pm
The MC1 actually has huge amounts of control for such a fast blade, its still too fast for me but much easier to use than anything else I've tried in that speed range
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skybitter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/27/2011 at 9:27am

i just want to try it for myself. base from ratings the control of this blade is much higher from my current blade (stiga active). i loved to use stiga boost when drilling bec. it's really fast, but when i use it during game im having difficulty to spin/loop backspin. 

my type of game is push/chop and wait for right time to spin,i know my problem is footwork.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skybitter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/27/2011 at 9:40am

stiga active, speed=8, control=8

joola mc1, speed=13, control=9

stiga neos tacky, speed=6, control=9.6

stiga boost tc, speed=13, control=8

stiga active+neos tacky, speed=14,control=17.6

stiga active+boost tc, speed=21,control=16

joola mc1+neos tacky,speed=21,control=18.6

joola mc1+boost tc,speed=26,control=17

is this correct? will the speed of neos tacky will be the same of the speed of stiga boost when i paired it from joola mc1? 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/27/2011 at 10:26am
Originally posted by skybitter skybitter wrote:

stiga active, speed=8, control=8

joola mc1, speed=13, control=9

stiga neos tacky, speed=6, control=9.6

stiga boost tc, speed=13, control=8

stiga active+neos tacky, speed=14,control=17.6

stiga active+boost tc, speed=21,control=16

joola mc1+neos tacky,speed=21,control=18.6

joola mc1+boost tc,speed=26,control=17

is this correct? will the speed of neos tacky will be the same of the speed of stiga boost when i paired it from joola mc1? 



Sadly the numbers provided by TT manufacturers are put together by their marketing departments, and while they are designed to help you compare within the same brand, are almost always tainted by the fact that new products need to be sold, so new products get "better" numbers.

And while www.tabletennisdb.com frequently has some very good product reviews - some of the rating numbers are just bunky because not enough people have reviewed the product - I'm still biased toward the feedback from this forum, where players of varying levels (ranging from US800-US2200 or so) will provide feedback on specific equipment.

In fact, one of the big reasons my ratings are in my sig is that I want to make sure that a player making buying decisions knows the source and level of the information.

Regarding the Stiga Active and Joola MC1 -

I've spent about 10 minutes with both blades but I frequently play people right around my level who own them. The Active is a very controllable 7 ply blade.  It's like a "baby clipper" that is closer to the Stiga Allround/OC in speed, while still being good for medium distance controlled attack. The players who use this are very consistent and excel at both attack and defense. I'd rate it at about OFF-, in spite of what Stiga markets it as (OFF). However, it's a very "low quality blade" in terms of overall build, and I've seen two broken at the neck in the last 6 months, and several handle breaks (came unglued).

The MC1 is another story entirely. It's an OFF+ blade. No doubt. The only person I know using this likes to hit that raging loopkill whenever he can. That means that about 15-25% of his attacks actually hit the table. The rest go long. Unless you have very high level technique, (or are a blocker with very passive strokes that needs all the speed you can get to outplace your opponent) this blade will cost you more points that it will help you earn. The Multi-Compound-System reminds me of Andro's Blax technology and some of Donics blades. Basically, to save cost by using smaller cuts of wood, they glue blocks of wood together and call it a blade. IIRC these are made in China, but the finishing is quite good, and frequently results in a blade that has good control for it's speed. But despite what some folks will say, there is no such thing as a "controllable" OFF+ blade. There are only OFF+ blades that are easier to use for certain strokes than others.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EZRO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/27/2011 at 10:45am

Very well said, incontek... I actually find it easier to use than BTY sardius.  OT. is Andro and Donic a sister company or something?  I find there products to be of similar quality and looks.  Maybe there blades are made from the same factory or something. 

Blade: Butterfly Photino and Keyshot light
FH: DONIC Baracuda / Tenergy 64 and 05
BH: 802-40/1 and Raystorm
DONIC BURN ALL+
FH Kokutaku 868 tacky
BH Kokutaku 110 Medium Pip
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stiltt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/27/2011 at 2:58pm
I always think super fast blades like MC1, Kool, Schlager, Yinhe T1 etc... go very well with medium tacky hard sponged chinese rubber.
Those hard sponge rubbers feel a bit dead on the short game and that's I want for optimum control. Close to the table driving, the rubber does not really wake up yet so it is still very controlable while plenty of speed is available. But now when we get a bit away from the table and swing harder, the hard sponge gets called into play and kicks back to give in conjunction with the fast blade all the force such a combo can give.
I remember playing Yinhe T1 with globe 999 2.0 on both sides and I had more speed than needed while keeping tremendous control on the short game.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/28/2011 at 12:13am
By "go really well" you mean for a US1900 level player, right? Wink


Originally posted by EZRO EZRO wrote:

Very well said, incontek... I actually find it easier to use than BTY sardius.  OT. is Andro and Donic a sister company or something?  I find there products to be of similar quality and looks.  Maybe there blades are made from the same factory or something. 



I think you are right. At least the BLAX and the DOTEC blades appear to be made in the same chinese factory judging by the construction method and finish. Donic does some pretty good QC, but the DOTEC handles sometimes get loose.

However, I don't know if Andro uses the Woodhouse AB factory in Tranas Sweden.
Yasaka and Donic (and likely Avalox) use this for their "Made in Sweden" blades.

IMHO Appelgren Allplay > Stiga Allround Classic.
US1260.RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takaaki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/28/2011 at 2:02pm
"But despite what some folks will say, there is no such thing as a "controllable" OFF+ blade. There are only OFF+ blades that are easier to use for certain strokes than others."

con, button your fly, your n00bieness is showing!

a blade is only as good as the rubber you put on it (and what glue you use and how well you glue). 

i have the mc1--an old one which i bought when it was first released here in the US.  i have been to the joolausa site and i have noticed that current mc1 looks slightly different from the one i have.

that said, unless joola has radically changed it, i have had some success with the NITTAKU NARUCROSS EX SOFT rubber.  so, i can say it's an excellent combination.

why don't i play with it now??  well, cuz it's a balsa blade.  and the problem with balsa blades is the very low dwell time.  to compensate, i used the max thickness of that rubber, but for some reason, a few years ago, NITTAKU drastically increased the thickness of the max size of narucross ex soft.  though i was still able to play with it, for some reason, it took about 3 wks. to a month before the rubber "stabilized" or "broke-in" or whatever, during which the rubber felt odd and i was missing a lot.  then, more or less a month later, the feeling on the rubber changed and i felt like i couldn't miss a ball.  the control was excellent.

i'm an attacking player, so it suited me perfectly.  but there was still one problem, which i find common to balsa blades and that's the spin on the serve, or lack thereof (due to the low dwell time).

though i was able to loop and block and smash and push with no problem, the one thing i couldn't do was generate much spin on the short serves.  so, my opponents were flipping my short serves with no problem.  i tried changing my service motion, but nothing seemed to work.

i tried other rubbers like tenergy 05, nimbus soft, stiga neos soft, and joola air, but none of those rubbers had the good feeling like the "seasoned" narucross EX soft max.

so, i think you guys should add narucross EX soft to the list above.  it should work fine w/the mc 1, but i'm not sure which rubber thickness you should try.  i think that max is perhaps too thick, so maybe you should try 1.9.

one more thing...  when you try a different rubber, chances are, you are NOT going to be able to hit shots like you used to with the rubber you were using before.  so, you need to make an adjustment, like opening or closing the racket angle, hitting at a slightly different spot on the racket than what you did before, changing your backswing or forward swing (and the footwork that goes along with that) and changing how you contact the ball (up? straight thru? horizontal? vertical?).  and, last, but not least, allowing the rubber some time to "break-in."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EZRO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/28/2011 at 11:53pm
Originally posted by icontek icontek wrote:

By "go really well" you mean for a US1900 level player, right? Wink


Originally posted by EZRO EZRO wrote:

Very well said, incontek... I actually find it easier to use than BTY sardius.  OT. is Andro and Donic a sister company or something?  I find there products to be of similar quality and looks.  Maybe there blades are made from the same factory or something. 



I think you are right. At least the BLAX and the DOTEC blades appear to be made in the same chinese factory judging by the construction method and finish. Donic does some pretty good QC, but the DOTEC handles sometimes get loose.

However, I don't know if Andro uses the Woodhouse AB factory in Tranas Sweden.
Yasaka and Donic (and likely Avalox) use this for their "Made in Sweden" blades.

IMHO Appelgren Allplay > Stiga Allround Classic.

good observation there Clap 
Blade: Butterfly Photino and Keyshot light
FH: DONIC Baracuda / Tenergy 64 and 05
BH: 802-40/1 and Raystorm
DONIC BURN ALL+
FH Kokutaku 868 tacky
BH Kokutaku 110 Medium Pip
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2011 at 12:27am
Originally posted by takaaki takaaki wrote:

"But despite what some folks will say, there is no such thing as a "controllable" OFF+ blade. There are only OFF+ blades that are easier to use for certain strokes than others."

con, button your fly, your n00bieness is showing!

a blade is only as good as the rubber you put on it (and what glue you use and how well you glue). 


I'm sure you're in good company with that opinion.

The hoards of US1100 players who used speed glued max bryce with schlager carbons before the ban would most certainly agree with you.



Again, I'm pretty open to the fact that I am a low level player with rec-grade technique. I put my rating in my signature, not only to brag about my "improvements" but also so that any players reading my posts are free to witness the bias and limitations of my understanding.

But when I see the better ~US1900+ players using OFF gear and the ~US1400 players using OFF+ gear, I just shake my head...
US1260.RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skybitter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2011 at 8:40am
 you guys are so lucky because you have club to play with... now i just play for exercise, i wish there are still open tournament that i can join.i don't know what my level is, but i beat those player who joins CLAARA.   

Edited by skybitter - 03/29/2011 at 8:41am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takaaki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2011 at 10:37am
Originally posted by icontek icontek wrote:

Originally posted by takaaki takaaki wrote:

"But despite what some folks will say, there is no such thing as a "controllable" OFF+ blade. There are only OFF+ blades that are easier to use for certain strokes than others."

con, button your fly, your n00bieness is showing!

a blade is only as good as the rubber you put on it (and what glue you use and how well you glue). 


I'm sure you're in good company with that opinion.

The hoards of US1100 players who used speed glued max bryce with schlager carbons before the ban would most certainly agree with you.



Again, I'm pretty open to the fact that I am a low level player with rec-grade technique. I put my rating in my signature, not only to brag about my "improvements" but also so that any players reading my posts are free to witness the bias and limitations of my understanding.

But when I see the better ~US1900+ players using OFF gear and the ~US1400 players using OFF+ gear, I just shake my head...


good point...

a few of the 1900-2100 players at my club are using slow blades with fast rubber.  maybe you should try that.

cuz if you just go with slow-slow (blade-rubber), then your shots will be slow (and powerless, if, like most low players, you're swinging your arm all the time instead of turning the body and pushing off the right foot) and when you do play with higher players, even if you're consistent, they'll still rip all your balls, cuz they have lots of time to get a good look and get set.

if you play with a slow-fast combo and stick with it and get used to it, then you can transition to a fast-fast combo which will really help you when you play higher players.

also, i notice that most people who have problems with "fast" combos are generally swinging the arm too much instead of turning the arm into position by turning the body.  so, when they swing the arm, they end up throwing the ball off the table, especially if they are playing with rubber with a high throw angle.

also, low players have a tendency to stand up too high and too close to the table, which means they end up hitting the ball at too high a point in the air and too early which also causes them to throw the ball off the table.

why do i bring this up?  cuz a frequent (and legitimate) criticism of (essentially ej'ing) threads like this comes sometimes in the form of a question like, "yeah, but, how good are you?"  or something like, "what's your rating?"

or it comes in the form of a comment like, "you should learn how to play first, otherwise you're just wasting your money on all this equipment."

playing with a fast-fast combo is NOT a problem if you already know how to play to begin with.

so, for those of you who play at a club, try out the rackets of some of the better players there and buy one that feels ok (not too heavy) and stay with it and learn how to play.  cuz if you are constantly changing rackets all the time, you will never ever develop a good rhythm or consistency and that is a fact.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2011 at 1:03pm
Originally posted by takaaki takaaki wrote:



a few of the 1900-2100 players at my club are using slow blades with fast rubber.  maybe you should try that.



there is no way that an ALL blade would tame a Tenergy or a Calibra at my level. I've seen how several southern maine students (who are roughly at my level -but they have a 2000 level coach and 2x a week practice) play with gear like that. Long pushes, blistering attacks and nothing else. No thank you. Their gear is simply too sensitive to opponent input for their level.

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cuz if you just go with slow-slow (blade-rubber), then your shots will be slow (and powerless, if, like most low players, you're swinging your arm all the time instead of turning the body and pushing off the right foot) and when you do play with higher players, even if you're consistent, they'll still rip all your balls, cuz they have lots of time to get a good look and get set.


two "local" US1600-1700 players who play about as infrequently as I do use gear a bit slower than mine (slower wood, slower rubbers). Both of them have developed weight transfer play a controlled style. At the distances they play (within 3 feet of the table) even slow/slow is fast enough to rip winners. But I understand that I lack both their control and weight transfer, so I compensate a bit with my gear (OFF- blade/medium speed-fairly spinny rubber).

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if you play with a slow-fast combo and stick with it and get used to it, then you can transition to a fast-fast combo which will really help you when you play higher players.

also, i notice that most people who have problems with "fast" combos are generally swinging the arm too much instead of turning the arm into position by turning the body.  so, when they swing the arm, they end up throwing the ball off the table, especially if they are playing with rubber with a high throw angle.


tell it to those southern maine US1000 students with their Tenergies. I don't think their coach has shared that bit of wisdom with them ;D Thankfully for me, at any rate.

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also, low players have a tendency to stand up too high and too close to the table, which means they end up hitting the ball at too high a point in the air and too early which also causes them to throw the ball off the table.


Of those, I am guilty as charged. On all counts. But I'm actively working at getting into my sweet spot where I drop back slightly after service or return of service. Given a few more feet from the table (3-5) I am able to take slightly bigger strokes and pressure my opponents with topspin, rather than push and pick hit. But it's years of habit that I am trying to overcome here, so it takes some doing :)

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why do i bring this up?  cuz a frequent (and legitimate) criticism of (essentially ej'ing) threads like this comes sometimes in the form of a question like, "yeah, but, how good are you?"  or something like, "what's your rating?"

or it comes in the form of a comment like, "you should learn how to play first, otherwise you're just wasting your money on all this equipment."


This forum has the perception from the larger Online TT community of being a bunch of US1000-1300 players who consistently chatter about how the latest and greatest rubber X is better than rubber Y and how so and so was wearing a dress by prada at the latest awards ceremony. oops, I mean so and so was playing with a blade by stiga at the latest cup event.

On the latter issue, I acknowledge that there is nothing inherently detrimental to the sport about fanboyism and fashion-fetish but to the former, I would like to have a hand in it's evolution. To that end I encourage people to post vidoes, share their rating or level, with the interest of greater transparency for reviews and opinions.

Because if you see a poster raving about the performance of calibra, is it important to know whether his is a teenager playing recreationally for a year or if he is veteran member of a UK club who regularly competes in county-wide tournaments .

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playing with a fast-fast combo is NOT a problem if you already know how to play to begin with.


Really? How do you define "know how to play"? Case in point, I know a king-of-the-basement player who has been using a Hunter Pyro (OFF) blade with OFF Nittaku built in speed glue effect rubbers. He's been using the same blade for 10 years and might play 20-30 times each year. He picked it from Paddle Palace because is an "Offensive Attacker". He is athletic, has well developed stroke mechanics from the FH side with good weight transfer, and better than average footwork for his level (about US1200) Against controlled placement and attacking players who focus on speed, even a slight level above, he regularly rips indefensible winners. But it leads to unforced errors against people who focus on creating spin in their loops. His equipment is so demanding that he lacks the precision to play his aggressive offense and is forced to chop loops rather than smash or counter. As a result, when he needs to go offensive in the point, instead of taking his usual big swings - his natural stroke from the back foot, through the torso with rotation, he is forced to be more tentative, and create smaller countering shots. My point is that with a slower and more flexible blade, more of his stroke energy would go into creating spin, and he would be freer to use his more natural (and developed) technique without worrying about the ball going long when smashing loops.

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so, for those of you who play at a club, try out the rackets of some of the better players there and buy one that feels ok (not too heavy) and stay with it and learn how to play.  cuz if you are constantly changing rackets all the time, you will never ever develop a good rhythm or consistency and that is a fact.


I agree that consistency with equipment is important and that it does produce better results than changing equipment constantly. I just think that it's important to pick equipment that reasonably fits your practice regimen and goals. I just think that even in the day of Speed Glue Effect rubbers that impart some of the control of VOC-laden glue (like Acuda S3) that having a blade that tames them is important.

And I don't think that the MC1 is a good blade for anything less than high-intermediate club players.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takaaki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2011 at 2:50pm
"And I don't think that the MC1 is a good blade for anything less than high-intermediate club players."

on this point, i would wholeheartedly agree, which is why i don't play with it anymore.

what you said above goes for all balsa blades.  the low dwell time is a big issue.  low players will like the speed and the consistency (if you have the right rubber) but the weak spin generated due to the ball shooting off the racket so quickly will put you in weak position after you serve if your opponent is smart enough to deal with the speed.

also, it's tough to find the right rubber for that (and other balsas).  as i said above, i bought the mc1 long ago and the rubber i was playing with on it got changed by nittaku.  so, i'm not 100% sure that combination will work today.

the last time i played with it was 3 yrs. ago on my spare racket (my main racket was something totally different).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takaaki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2011 at 3:07pm
"Of those, I am guilty as charged. On all counts. But I'm actively working at getting into my sweet spot where I drop back slightly after service or return of service. Given a few more feet from the table (3-5) I am able to take slightly bigger strokes and pressure my opponents with topspin, rather than push and pick hit. But it's years of habit that I am trying to overcome here, so it takes some doing"

one thing that might help is to, in your mind, set up a strike zone.  in the beginning, visualize it around say 2 feet back from the table.  stand in the middle of the table and have your partner hit one ball to the FH and one to the BH.  and then watch for the ball to land in your strike zone and then hit it.  just hit the balls slowly so you can learn how to adjust your body, shift your weight and turn your body and arm and wrist into the ball as if falls into your strike zone.

as you get more consistent then you can back up and move the strike zone further back and have your partner hit a little harder.

and you do it over and over again until mentally you have "separated" yourself from the table and you realize that "the strike zone" is basically 1-2 ft. in front of wherever you happen to be on the court.  and, eventually, you'll come to realize that the strike zone wherever you want it to be.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skybitter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/02/2011 at 2:20am
i have just tried this blade today. i like it very much in neos tacky. my partner said it is much spinier and faster than my old blade. even if it's fast i can say that i can control the ball.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/02/2011 at 4:50pm
Originally posted by takaaki takaaki wrote:

"Of those, I am guilty as charged. On all counts. But I'm actively working at getting into my sweet spot where I drop back slightly after service or return of service. Given a few more feet from the table (3-5) I am able to take slightly bigger strokes and pressure my opponents with topspin, rather than push and pick hit. But it's years of habit that I am trying to overcome here, so it takes some doing"

one thing that might help is to, in your mind, set up a strike zone.  in the beginning, visualize it around say 2 feet back from the table.  stand in the middle of the table and have your partner hit one ball to the FH and one to the BH.  and then watch for the ball to land in your strike zone and then hit it.  just hit the balls slowly so you can learn how to adjust your body, shift your weight and turn your body and arm and wrist into the ball as if falls into your strike zone.

as you get more consistent then you can back up and move the strike zone further back and have your partner hit a little harder.

and you do it over and over again until mentally you have "separated" yourself from the table and you realize that "the strike zone" is basically 1-2 ft. in front of wherever you happen to be on the court.  and, eventually, you'll come to realize that the strike zone wherever you want it to be.


Good point. One of my buddies has been playing for @15 months. He learned his footwork in conjunction with his stroke. He "visualizes" the FH and moves to accommodate the stroke each time. He's basically setting up the "strike zone" you describe. He can consistently attack, or consistently defend. Unlike most of my normal opponents, he can counter a big opener. I think that coaches would be smart if they taught a step in or step out with the stroke itself; too many players can warmup or drill in a way that copies the pros, but in a game, they don't adjust their footwork to make the shots that they practice (myself included).
US1260.RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/02/2011 at 4:53pm
Originally posted by skybitter skybitter wrote:

i have just tried this blade today. i like it very much in neos tacky. my partner said it is much spinier and faster than my old blade. even if it's fast i can say that i can control the ball.


controlling it during warmup/practice with your partner is different than matches. please do us a favor and report the match results with this blade, including wins/losses.

my guess would be that the extra speed will benefit you vs. a few higher level opponents, but that folks with varying styles (even those around your level) may find ways to turn that speed against you.
US1260.RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EZRO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/02/2011 at 5:14pm
good point there icontek.. controlling the speed during the game is really different when you are drilling.  Alot of factors involve in a game that you don't care when you are doing some drills.
Blade: Butterfly Photino and Keyshot light
FH: DONIC Baracuda / Tenergy 64 and 05
BH: 802-40/1 and Raystorm
DONIC BURN ALL+
FH Kokutaku 868 tacky
BH Kokutaku 110 Medium Pip
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skybitter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/03/2011 at 8:03am
im not a member of a club. so i can't try it in other player.  all i can say is, i love this combination. 
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