Nittaku Violin 1st Generation Pics

I manage to buy Nittaku Violin FL handle in a small sport shop in Taiwan which looks different with my 2006 Violin FL. The wood is more yellow than my 2006 Violin and the wing is sealed while my 2006 doesn't come with factory sealed.
When I visit the shop in April, I didn't buy it, because I thought I already have so many Violin.
But this Violin looks different, the side of the head size is not as clean/white as the current model.
This blade has a more vintage looking than the current one.
The handle isn't as tiny as my first Violin, will take more photos when the blade is arrived.
Here are the photo's taken by cellphone at the shop,I would like thanks for my sister in law who buy it for me

cool_natja wrote: Congrats on your getting a vintage Violin, Nittaku lover ! You were so lucky to get the 1st edition of one of blades you love so much. I look forward to seeing the pics along with your review. (About price ... How much did you pay ?)

I pay it for NT 4.960, you can see the price on the 2nd Pics
Sure I will take more photo's and weight it to see how heavy is it.

Not sure if I'm going to play with it, probably for display only

There are no pins on the Nittaku metal logo of the new Violin.

My 2006 Violin weight 80 gr, now modified with bigger handle now become 85 gr.
Compare with my 88 gr L-sized Violin, the 80 gr has more feel and it's has more dwell, but slower.

To upload picture in the websites, you must upload it to photobucket.com
after you upload it, copy and paste the Image code, very simple.

Yeah the old model has more hollow kind of feel, the newer one has more solid feel. Not sure if my old Violin which is only 80 gr, so it's not as solid.

Hi Mercur, interesting theory, is this just a matter of your imagination or do you have any empirical evidence for your theory (like broken Violin showing whats going on inside the wood layers)? To me, it sounds quite realistic what you say, but as long as no empirical research done in this, it will only stay as a theory, interesting though....

the violin I play wit is probably one of the early editions (it had been launched back in 2003 as a new brand of Nittaku - I mean these musical series Violin, Acoustic, Tenor and Vioncello) and my piece has a black/gold metal logo with pins. The outer plies are quite yellowish and the feeling is marvellous. Many reviewers of Violin complain on it to be quite slow, well, I have never had this feeling, for me, it is almost as fast as TBS but much more precise and better balanced, the dwell time is hard to evaluate for me, as I have no comparison with later editions of Violin, but is almost comparable to TBS too, my team mates, watching me playing my new/old Violin were repeateadly very curious what combo I have, like " I´ve never seen such a sharp topsin from you before" etc...at which my short answer at was very simple: Nittaku Violin!

but one significant fact, about my "old" Violin, I got it in exchange for brand new Innerforce ALC, but the Violin I got was almost untached, like played maximu 30 hours, which suggest me, that I can along with my playing it expect more playing quality improvements:-)

Mercuur, I think that's why the pros keep changing blades, because they hit so hard that the blade itself crack???
But there's a pro which use only 1 blade, even it's damaged, it's repaired.
Because I know it's difficult to find 100% the same playing blade even it's the same batch, same tree, same weight.

Peter,
Sorry I forgot to congratulate you for having found and been able to buy this beautyfull blade.  When Nittaku came out with violin and accoustic I allready had bladebuilding as sort of a hobby and these blades got me interested then for using this glue.  As it appeared to be quite cheap for sale in local artist shop (artist painters use it for mixed with white chalk for grounding canvas weave) I bought some and since then love to work with it not just making blades also other woodworking.

About the - possible - crackling, I don,t want you to have nightmares from playing with these blades :-).
The glue is applied as layers (on both sides to be glued) but doesn,t really stay as a distinct layer in between the plies after pressing. Wood is to rough and open surface for that. It,s more like how epoxy embeds carbonfibres the glue embeds the fibres at the outside of the woodplies. Gluing and pressuring builds a thin mixed zone of two woodtypes as a weave with the glue as binding medium. With hideglue this layer stays much thinner because it has no time to absorb as it gels quickly. After applying the glue only works as glue for maybe a minute then it,s non tacky and soft solid. The layers have to be pressed together before this happens. Then it has to dry further.

When toplayer is ash (hard) and underneath tung (soft) it initially becomes an ash-tung layer but harder then the ash from the glue.  When it is damaged  specifically from use the woodfibres will still keep it together and be kept together. It stays local with woodfibres avoiding the cracks to build further.  Constructionwise the same as what steel does to concrete and concrete to steel when used in combination. But the initial hardness (concrete) will gradually decrease from playing with the sweetspot becoming sweeter. The natural suppleness and elasticity of the woodfibres becomes apparent (the steel) , the tung softness becomes involved more aso. The at first closed layers (as a plastic or polyurethane film) sorta open up.
So it,s not a  reason to ever change the blade it,s funktionality or the glues funktionality is not damaged at all from this no reason to change blades for this.

Arg0,
Pro,s is much different, they can play many hours a day and many days before tournaments or competitions and all with very high energy and more constant impact. Few weeks of play by them does a lot then.  Plus the chinese team have special testplayers in between the bladesponsor/ manufakturer and the players that do the international tournaments.  Non pro,s don,t have this luxury and much less hours before competition or a tournament starts.




Edited by mercuur - 12/15/2011 at 6:04am

Possibly the better woodquality is from shelftime in the shop. The wood has had years to age and dry natural without disturbance from gluesolvents, rubberchanges, sealing aso.

For griptape I use badminton overgrip tape from a general sports-store. This is somewhat wider but can be cut lengthwise. Only a short piece near the lowerend of the grip, an inch or so, mostly suffices. If not I wouldn,t use the blade or change the griphalves.  I use the same edgetape as for the side of the bat to secure. This helps to avoid slippage between handlewood and griptape plus it looks nice with the same colour coming back.

Just got it today
It's 85 Gr, put tennis grip on it, and put H3 National and Tenergy 05 weight 182 Gr.
The feel is the best among my 2006 Violin, 93 Gr ST old logo, all L-sized violin...

This blade has more butter smooth feel compare to L-sized, L-sized has a bit dry feel.
85 Gr vs 88 Gr L-sized the 85 Gr is more solid but smoother feel.
The Violin has the best feel among all of my Violins (2006 Violin, 93 Gr ST old logo, all L-sized violin)

sugengz wrote: Small handle... Put tyre grip hahahaha.... All i can say is that this blade is gorgeous....

Tyre grip is too heavy
I use Babolat VS grip original black color, which is 0.4 mm thick, very nice to hold and I can still feel the good vibration...

http://www.tenniswarehouse-europe.com/descpageBABH-BVS10PK.html

Indeed this blade for me is the best looking blade and has the best feel




Edited by peter79 - 01/21/2012 at 11:04am