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Jerem View Drop Down
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    Posted: 03/06/2012 at 5:07pm
Hello,
I've read a lot about therse blades but unfotunately i found really opposed reviews.
I am decided to buy one but I cannot decide which.
Blade which I want to choose should have more control and should be suitable for quite hard rubbers H3/T05.
I am playing continously safe topspin close to table. (rotation+control+speed)
Could you help me decide which one because I am really confused reading so diffrend reviews depending on reviewer.
[I got TBS but it have too dead feeling and it's just a little bit too fast]
Thanks in advance.
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aeoliah View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aeoliah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/06/2012 at 6:10pm
In my opinion, Violin has a harder feel compared to Acoustic, and I prefer Violin.
Everyone has his own taste, and the best for you is to try both if you have the chance.


Edited by aeoliah - 03/06/2012 at 6:11pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cho! Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/06/2012 at 6:31pm
I've read reviews over these two blades for months because I had too wanted one of these but couldn't decide. From everything I've read, the Violin gives more control than the acoustic but doesn't have the extra edge of speed that makes the acoustic exceptional. I've heard that the violin is still relatively fast though, and has much more control than the acoustic.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aeoliah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/06/2012 at 7:31pm
Many people said that Acoustic is faster than Violin, but my opinion is they have the same speed, maybe Violin is a little bit faster (or is it because the sound of Violin is louder than Acoustic ?).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Imago Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/07/2012 at 2:29am
Originally posted by Jerem Jerem wrote:


Blade which I want to choose should have more control and should be suitable for quite hard rubbers H3/T05.
 
Violin has more control - and better feel, when combined with T05.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dingyibvs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/07/2012 at 4:37am
What I've learned about vastly differing opinions is that whenever it happens, especially with high level players, is that there isn't much of a difference and you can go ahead and pick any of them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranger-man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/07/2012 at 7:41am
I prefer the Violin but in my opinion you can't go wrong with either of the two blades. I would pick the Violin for better control, since I have always believed I can generate that extra bit of speed using arm and shoulder strength whenever needed. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluebucket Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/07/2012 at 8:58am
The thing that stands out for me is you say the TBS feels dead, well the Acoustic has practically zero feeling. It's a very smooth blade so I'm not so sure you would like it. I haven't tried the Violin although from what I've read it's got more feel than the Acoustic
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote metallikviper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/07/2012 at 9:35am
Violin is has a very crisp feel almost hard. The Acoustic feels like playing with butter. Both are good in their own way. Personally I found the Acoustic to be a tad bit faster. If you're looking for a controlled close to table topspin game with the occasional flat hit and drive then I would go for the Violin. I found the Acoustic better for loop driving and has a very linear power curve and is very good from mid-distance.

You should have plenty of power with the Violin if you plan to use T05. Like most reviewers you cant go wrong with either blade and they work well with most rubbers.


Edited by metallikviper - 03/07/2012 at 9:37am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jerem Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/07/2012 at 5:43pm
I want to use H3 on FH and t05fx/t64 on bh - close to table looping and I dont want to get T05 on fh, I keen on using chineese rubbers on fh
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote doraemon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/07/2012 at 11:47pm
I like Violin better compared to Acoustic.  It does not mean Violin is the better one, it's just personal preference.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/08/2012 at 2:57am
Acoustic it's a little bit faster than Violin...Violin has a crisp feel and acoustic has a softer feel...acoustic it's better for mid distance...has enough resources...Violin it's better for close to the table atiack....IMHO it's very good for a young player who want to develop a good game....Acoustic it's better with med hard rubbers while violin it's better for med soft rubbers...Acoustic has the power to end a point for a intermediate player...for a pro player even acoustic could be too slow, soft...Have a nice day and hope it helps!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/08/2012 at 3:26am
Both blades are used by Ma Long, he use Violin first then Acoustic, but it's during speed glue era.
For me Acoustic pairing with H3 is better than Violin.
While if you like to use Japan/euro rubber on FH, Violin is a better choice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jerem Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/08/2012 at 5:39am
Thank you for your responses they were really helpful.I hope that in few days I will recive my Acoustic : )
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aeoliah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/08/2012 at 8:02am
Congratulations on your coming blade Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranger-man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/08/2012 at 8:36am
I am sure you will love it. And an advance welcome to the Violin/Acoustic Clan. :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jerem Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/08/2012 at 9:15am
Shop assistant told me it will be in my home on Monday so then I am going to weight it and join Violin/Acoustic Clan : ) And again thank you for yours advice. 
And last question :
Does it need sealing if I want to use water based glue ?


Edited by Jerem - 03/08/2012 at 9:20am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/08/2012 at 11:51pm
Originally posted by Jerem Jerem wrote:

Shop assistant told me it will be in my home on Monday so then I am going to weight it and join Violin/Acoustic Clan : ) And again thank you for yours advice. 
And last question :
Does it need sealing if I want to use water based glue ?


Seal 1 thin coat with Donic Formula sealer or any other brand sealer for table tennis, other wise it will splinter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dingyibvs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/09/2012 at 12:04am
I think all blades need sealing if you change rubbers a lot, I haven't seen a blade that doesn't splinter yet without sealing.  I seal all of mine with polyurethane.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BMonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/09/2012 at 1:02am
Originally posted by dingyibvs dingyibvs wrote:

I think all blades need sealing if you change rubbers a lot, I haven't seen a blade that doesn't splinter yet without sealing.  I seal all of mine with polyurethane.
I think this depends on the wood of the outer ply and blade construction. Never sealed my Butterfly Timo Boll Spirit or Schlager Carbon Light and have never had a problem with splintering, even after years of regular rubber changes. Also, the Rosewood V I had came with a nice coating that prevented splintering. My Clipper Wood on the other hand required sealing because the first one I had splintered like a mo fo.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/09/2012 at 1:18am
Originally posted by dingyibvs dingyibvs wrote:

I think all blades need sealing if you change rubbers a lot, I haven't seen a blade that doesn't splinter yet without sealing.  I seal all of mine with polyurethane.


Well Violin doesn't need sealing, even if you use Water based glue. I use Haifu Waterbased glue though...
Not sure about Butterfly free chack...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dingyibvs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/09/2012 at 2:44am
I use Haifu WBG too, do you use a blow dryer?  I find that when I let it dry naturally, it soaks into the top ply and splintering is inevitable.  Then again, I've only tried it on Koto, Limba, and Basswood top plies, so I don't know if other plies matter.

 Anyway, I don't see why you wouldn't seal the blade, I apply a somewhat thin, but not too thin, layer, then I sand the crap out of it after letting it dry for at least 5 hours or so.  It doesn't change the blade's playing characteristic at all, at least not with the amount I sand.  I use 300 grit paper and sand it all the way until I see sawdust, so that I know the top layer is completely sanded off.  But polyurethane soaks into the wood slightly, so what you're left with is a top layer that's a wood/sealant mix.  The woody part makes sure the rubber stays glued, and the sealant layer makes sure that all the woody parts stick together.  What you get is perfect rubber attachment with zero splintering Smile  My blades don't look like they've been sealed at all, and it doesn't feel like it when you run your finger across them either, yet whereas before it would splinter every single friggin time I remove a rubber, now I don't get even the slightest splinter.  Maybe some blades, like perhaps the Violin, is pretreated this way?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/09/2012 at 3:07am
I use a blow dryer, so that it's faster to dry.
Well Violin top ply is white ash, which is considered a hard wood. And it looks like it's Factory sealed.
While Limba top ply of Acoustic isn't sealed from factory.

Your method of sanding the top ply is too risky for me Big smile
I afraid I over sand the wood which make the wood isn't equally smooth.
Violin is a must have blade for all wood 5 ply enthusiast Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dingyibvs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/09/2012 at 3:27am
Lol, I thought it was risky too, but I had the hardest time gluing this H3NP with a giant reverse dome onto my blade, so one night I got really pissed off and decided to sand all the sealant off.  Needless to say, I was quite surprised to see that the rubber stuck on perfectly AND peeling it off didn't leave splinters.

Personally, I don't think slight uneven-ness is a problem.  300 grit is pretty fine to start with, so it's unlikely to create any significant uneven spots, plus both the glue and the rubber are much softer than wood, so they should help mitigate any potential uneven-ness.  I can see why you'd be worried though, and if a blade doesn't need sealing then why bother, right? LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CY930 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/09/2012 at 3:49am
Hi guys, I am new here, see everybody talking about Violin and Acoustic, just wonder if anybody tested Nittaku Adelie? What sort of rubber is recommend to match with this blade?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluebucket Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/09/2012 at 5:34am
When I seal a blade which isn't very often I also use polyurethane, one coat and the sand back to wood like dingyibvs
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dingyibvs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/09/2012 at 5:38am
Yea, I actually recent discovered a better method courtesy of hookshot, which is to apply a layer, rub it in and let it sit for a few minutes, then wipe everything off.  After it dries, with some light sanding and it works great.  It's both faster and easier this way.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/09/2012 at 6:49am
Originally posted by dingyibvs dingyibvs wrote:

Lol, I thought it was risky too, but I had the hardest time gluing this H3NP with a giant reverse dome onto my blade, so one night I got really pissed off and decided to sand all the sealant off.  Needless to say, I was quite surprised to see that the rubber stuck on perfectly AND peeling it off didn't leave splinters.

Personally, I don't think slight uneven-ness is a problem.  300 grit is pretty fine to start with, so it's unlikely to create any significant uneven spots, plus both the glue and the rubber are much softer than wood, so they should help mitigate any potential uneven-ness.  I can see why you'd be worried though, and if a blade doesn't need sealing then why bother, right? LOL


Well If you feel difficult to glue the reverse dome rubber, you may use tuner to tune the sponge, to make it flat. Such as Parafin oil or Dian Chi Wink

I'm too perfect guy, so although the uneven-ness doesn't really effect in playing, but I just afraid it will effect my blocking consistency LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonyer1980 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/09/2012 at 1:48pm
Originally posted by peter79 peter79 wrote:

Both blades are used by Ma Long, he use Violin first then Acoustic, but it's during speed glue era.
For me Acoustic pairing with H3 is better than Violin.
While if you like to use Japan/euro rubber on FH, Violin is a better choice.

+1 Clap


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2012 at 12:18am
I realised that I forget to tell you one thing... if you go for acoustic you should choose one with black label one the handle(older version)...I don't know for sure but I was told that Violin it's always the same...Good luck!

Edited by flash - 03/10/2012 at 12:18am
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T05 hard, 2,1 mm, black, fh
T05 hard, 2,1 mm, red, bh.
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