Blade Sealing

AlexVan wrote: Hi Folks, Do I need to re-apply the sealer if the blade had been sealed?  If yes, How do often do I need to do that? thanks!

This depends on many factors.   What type of sealer was used, how much was used (how thick it was or was not applied), and what type of wood is on the surface of the blade. 

Some sealers last a long time....some are very thin and may require resealing from time to time.  It will depend on how often you change your rubbers or re-glue them. 

You will definitely know when it it time to reseal your blade when you find tiny (hopefully) wood splinters in the glue on the rubber when you take the rubber off the blade.  But, it it could be too late if you see large splinters coming up. 

I previously used water-based Varathane, but later switched to an oil-based mini wax (both clear satin finish). The reason I switched was . . . the oil-based penetrates the top layer better to bind the fibers whereas the water-based only binds the very top fluffy layer and sits on top more . . . probably better for over-sealing or lacquering. HOWEVER, lately I've become more concern with health and keeping my racket legal. As a result, I have switched to:  Safecoat PolyureSeal BP by AFM. It's non-toxic. Regardless of what you use, use sparingly . . . put sealant on a clean cotton clothe that does not fray or have fibers falling off it . . . then evenly rub into top ply, careful not to allow spillage over the edge (wipe the edge after coat). I usually let it dry and go over it once more, but that depends on the type of wood, e.g., Hinoki usually doesn't need additional coats. I hope this helps. All the best and happy sealing. Tzai.

tommyzai wrote: DreiZ wrote: I haven't noticed any changes to the blade feel, speed, or anything like that. Sealing might add a gram or two to the overall weight of the blade. Ditto!! If there is a difference, it's not noticeable . . . unless you put a zillion layers on the blade so it looks like a high-gloss coffee table. Do a search for a member called Hookshot. We did a lot of experimenting over the years.

I followed your recommendation when I started to seal my blades tommyzai

Baal wrote: A simple approach is old fashioned hair spray.  Let it dry on the blade.  Then glue. Doesn't interfere with glue sticking the rubber to the blade which can happen with some sealed blades.

I think that can happen with oversealing or using those water based top coat sealers tommyzai mentioned. With oil based wipe on poly 1 layer absorbs really well into the bare wood and retains the original bare wood texture. I was afraid of splintering when taking off rubbers, hence started sealing.

For a non-toxic, VOC-Free sealant:

Ranger-man, you're too kind. ;-) Thanks, my friend. Glad it worked out. No sealing service at this time, but . . .