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Blade Sealing

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/19/2012 at 1:29pm
Please see above for sealing instructions . . .

Edited by tommyzai - 04/19/2012 at 1:30pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/19/2012 at 1:30pm
:-).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/19/2012 at 1:33pm
Originally posted by kickass kickass wrote:

blade manufacturers don't make a lot of money from people replacing glue-damaged blades every 3 years. They make a lot of money from people replacing undamaged blades every 3 months.

Both actually. And, if you damage your blade it will happen before 3 years unless you wait that long to change rubbers.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jt99sf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/19/2012 at 1:35pm
Originally posted by tommyzai tommyzai wrote:

Please see above for sealing instructions . . .
 
I found a use for my old socks...EmbarrassedLOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/19/2012 at 1:36pm
Originally posted by jt99sf jt99sf wrote:

Originally posted by tommyzai tommyzai wrote:

Please see above for sealing instructions . . .
 
I found a use for my old socks...EmbarrassedLOL

Be careful using old socks. Sometimes they have the little lint balls that come off, or worse . . . toe jam or toe nails. Undies work better! :-).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluebucket Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/19/2012 at 1:37pm
I don't seal my blades and have never had anything more than a few microscopic fibres come off a blade. These guys that tear top plys off blades must get very enthusiastic when removing rubber or be extremely uncoordinated... The downside of a possible bond failure between sponge and blade during a tournament far outweighs any possible slight damage to a blade to me.

I do sand all my blades when new which both lessens the chance of the sponge pulling up fibres and gives the sponge something to stick to on factory sealed blades


Edited by bluebucket - 04/19/2012 at 1:38pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jt99sf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/19/2012 at 1:47pm
Originally posted by tommyzai tommyzai wrote:

Originally posted by jt99sf jt99sf wrote:

Originally posted by tommyzai tommyzai wrote:

Please see above for sealing instructions . . .
 
I found a use for my old socks...EmbarrassedLOL

Be careful using old socks. Sometimes they have the little lint balls that come off, or worse . . . toe jam or toe nails. Undies work better! :-).
 
I'll use my wife's old VS undies...LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mhnh007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/19/2012 at 1:53pm
Originally posted by tommyzai tommyzai wrote:

Please see above for sealing instructions . . .
OK.  I read your instruction.  Funny I sort of do the same thing, and also use the same sealant :).  I am now experiment with using my bare fingers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vvu.tee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/19/2012 at 2:04pm
tommyzai's method revisited: 

(0) sand lightly with very fine sandpaper
(1) dilute polyurethane for priming (i use single-component poly that needs 2 parts poly + 1 part water)
(2) apply an even thin coat on the blade's face using strokes along the direction of the structure of the wood (usually up and down)
(3) brush dry with silk or cotton cloth before the sealant is dry.
(4) wait at least 6 hours and apply another* layer if needed.
(5) sand lightly with very fine sandpaper
(6) repeat on the other side

* do not apply more than 2 layers using this method, although the resulting coat is very thin, 3 or more layer can be felt on the blade especially if you have played with it unsealed before. the sensation of over-sealed blade is very unpleasant and characteristics do change materially.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/19/2012 at 2:21pm
Originally posted by mhnh007 mhnh007 wrote:

Originally posted by tommyzai tommyzai wrote:

Please see above for sealing instructions . . .
OK.  I read your instruction.  Funny I sort of do the same thing, and also use the same sealant :).  I am now experiment with using my bare fingers.

If you use your own fingers you might leave too much on the blade. Be careful to rub off the excess fast before it dries. You don't want to create an end table!

Victoria's Secret Cotton G-String Undies work best!


Edited by tommyzai - 04/19/2012 at 2:22pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tuco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/19/2012 at 3:05pm
Originally posted by tommyzai tommyzai wrote:

Victoria's Secret Cotton G-String Undies work best!
but they are waaay over priced!  don't ask how I know :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jt99sf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/19/2012 at 3:21pm

Embarrassed



Edited by jt99sf - 04/19/2012 at 3:26pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote arg0 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/19/2012 at 8:22pm
tommy,
is this the way you sealed the miyabi I got from you? It has a very smooth finish!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/19/2012 at 8:36pm
Originally posted by arg0 arg0 wrote:

tommy,
is this the way you sealed the miyabi I got from you? It has a very smooth finish!

YES! I was going to keep Mr. Miyabi for myself so I detailed it to my specifications. It's a lovely blade and hopefully you like the way I lightly sanded and sealed it. You can put rubbers on it with any glue or even a glue sheet without worry!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote arg0 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/20/2012 at 6:16pm
yes, I very much like the way you sanded the wings, and notwithstanding the sealing, the blade still smells like hinoki. The only thing I'll do is to clean the lens, because there is some dry sealant on it. I usually put some tape on the lens before sealing the handle of a blade, so that it stays clean.

Edited by arg0 - 04/20/2012 at 6:18pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aeoliah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/20/2012 at 10:57pm
Yes ! Keep the blade clean ! I like it that way. Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote right2niru Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/08/2012 at 2:47pm
I may perhaps be the first person in this thread asking on how to remove a sealing from the surface of the blade ? I bought a used blade and only 1 side of it was sealed and it feels really really smooth but i dont like that and also feel that in some way not sealing both side of the blade is affecting the overall feel; could the experts chip in on how to remove a sealing from the surface without damaging the holy grains of wood ? I tried sanding but not sure if it works.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/08/2012 at 4:01pm
Blade sealing! LOL
Removal is easy, but I'm not telling.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote assiduous Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/08/2012 at 4:23pm
Originally posted by icontek icontek wrote:


To clarify:
I can come up with at least THREE REASONS that most manufacturers don't seal.

1 increased cost in materials and complexity/cost of manufacturing process
  
2 if you damage your blade and have to replace it, this can help the manufacturer sell more blades (it's likely why so few blade manufacturers integrate edge protection into their design).

3 for years the player has been responsible for final finishing-Stiga is a great example- we complain that these blades often look shoddy, but Stiga understands that some of their players will want a light seal and others will want a heavy lacquer. A bare blade is the best way to allow players to customize and the Classic Series allows for that.

Icontek, none of these three reasons are valid in a competitive market. 

Think about american auto manufacturers. They produced cheap junk than needed to be replaced often. Did that help them? They all went bankrupt. There is always someone who will decide to produce high quality product and win all the market share, so you can't survive by intentionally producing junk and hoping they will buy more of it.

Also higher costs are not a deterrent. The question is are these costs justified, do they improve the product enough. When iphone came around it was the most expensive phone on the market. It still killed everything ( for a while, now even better phones out there). 

That is exactly the beauty of the free market. None of these games work. Companies get punished hard for poor quality. The only way these nasty practices can work is with the help of the government. Like the Big Three bitched to congress and congress imposed import quotas on cars, so GM can sell the junk free of competition. Without government restriction of free market every company strives to produce the highest quality product at the lowest price. Amazing feast of nature that we should never interfere with.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote right2niru Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/08/2012 at 4:39pm
Originally posted by tommyzai tommyzai wrote:

Blade sealing! LOLRemoval is easy, but I'm not telling.


Anybody else who really knows and cares to share the same ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/08/2012 at 4:52pm
Originally posted by right2niru right2niru wrote:

Originally posted by tommyzai tommyzai wrote:

Blade sealing! LOLRemoval is easy, but I'm not telling.

Anybody else who really knows and cares to share the same ?


Are you seriously upset with me? I'm joking. :-0.
Why do you want to remove the sealant? Is there too much?
What kind of sealant is on there?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommyzai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/08/2012 at 4:53pm
Unsealed blades are basically disposable. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote right2niru Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/08/2012 at 5:00pm
Originally posted by tommyzai tommyzai wrote:

Originally posted by right2niru right2niru wrote:

Originally posted by tommyzai tommyzai wrote:

Blade sealing! LOLRemoval is easy, but I'm not telling.

Anybody else who really knows and cares to share the same ?


Are you seriously upset with me? I'm joking. :-0.
Why do you want to remove the sealant? Is there too much?
What kind of sealant is on there?
Nay i really didn't get the tone ; nevertheless i do not have a clue of the sealant used as i bought the blade used from somebody else who bought it used too . Now the reason i want to remove is it's not applied to both sides of the blade as said earlier and it feels different especially while applying the glue the WB glue doesn't stick to the rubber very well sometimes only on this side.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tuco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/08/2012 at 11:03pm
you'll need at least one tool to remove sealant: sandpaper.
another tool highly recommended: a small wood block.
wrap the sandpaper around the wood block so you can sand evenly.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Imago Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/09/2012 at 3:04am
Originally posted by right2niru right2niru wrote:

 the WB glue doesn't stick to the rubber very well sometimes only on this side.
 
If the sealant is WB spit on the blade and slightly rub it with fine sandpaper.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smackman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/09/2012 at 5:32am
Ive never sealed any of my blades ( started in a club in 1974) 
 actually only one customer has ever asked for a sealed blade
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote right2niru Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/10/2012 at 5:55pm
Thanks ! The original sanding tool i had used was real cheapo and wasn't meant for removing paint / lacquer. i had bought something just like what you mentioned from lowes and it worked. i no longer see the trace of sealant on the surface and i can feel the wood now. 

Edited by right2niru - 12/10/2012 at 5:55pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bschap Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/08/2015 at 3:48pm
good info here, thanks to everyone esp Tommy Zai.
Q - I am loath to sand my blade head surface and also to apply anything harsh like rubbing alcohol.  What is the potential problem to applying the seal without doing these two things?  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlexVan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/30/2017 at 7:19pm
Hi Folks,

Do I need to re-apply the sealer if the blade had been sealed?  If yes, How do often do I need to do that? thanks!


Edited by AlexVan - 03/30/2017 at 7:20pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Egghead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/30/2017 at 11:30pm
Originally posted by AlexVan AlexVan wrote:

Hi Folks,

Do I need to re-apply the sealer if the blade had been sealed?  If yes, How do often do I need to do that? thanks!
Only once, no need to re-seal.

P.S. Some blades you must seal them, and some blades (not the coated blades) you do not need to seal them Embarrassed


Edited by Egghead - 03/30/2017 at 11:32pm
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