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Rapscallion by Ross Leidy |
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emihet 
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Joined: 09/22/2009 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 2315 |
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 Posted: 02/26/2013 at 3:19am |
i might have to watch that movie now... |
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Viscaria, Ma Long 5, Old Clippers, BTY Ovtcharov and Various Custom blades
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aeoliah
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Joined: 11/18/2005 Location: Indonesia Status: Offline Points: 3215 |
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Posted: 02/26/2013 at 8:28am |
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What wood is the handle ? I have never seen a wood of that colour.
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Member of the Single Ply Hinoki Club
Viscaria Super ALC C-Pen Rasanter C48 |
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Ross Leidy
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Joined: 10/13/2011 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 402 |
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Posted: 02/26/2013 at 8:32am |
It's not its natural color - it's dyed (not by me, I found a source of dyed wood blocks). This handle is dyed-blue Big Leaf Maple burl.
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arg0
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Joined: 07/22/2009 Location: Germany Status: Offline Points: 2023 |
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Posted: 06/15/2013 at 2:01pm |
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Ross,
I got very interested in the Rapscallion. I may be able to get a used one from another player, but I noticed that in his blade the core layer in the handle is dicontinuous, I mean you made it in two parts (see picture). Why is that? Is that so on all Rapscallions? If not, what differences in feeling can I expect? Thanks!  |
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Cncpen
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Joined: 06/07/2013 Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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Posted: 06/15/2013 at 4:20pm |
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Is it a good brush looping blade with h3 on fh?
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Pingvinis
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Joined: 02/16/2013 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 167 |
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Posted: 06/15/2013 at 4:49pm |
I don't want to answer for Ross Leidy, but just noting that I have two blades with this kind of "joint", but it runs "north-south" across the blade face. One of them is a limba-limba-ayous all+/off-- blade and it feels like other such blades that I have. I bounced balls across the blade face and there was no irregularity near this joint. I think it's just the plywood manufacturer that glues together these plies when they have some pieces that are too small to make one large enough unit. Edited by Pingvinis - 06/15/2013 at 4:58pm |
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Ross Leidy
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Joined: 10/13/2011 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 402 |
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Posted: 06/16/2013 at 4:04pm |
Sometimes it is not possible to find wood of the minimum dimensions required for a blade blank, so it must be pieced. This is true of commercial blades, as well. The glue joint is not a weak spot - it's usually stronger than the surrounding wood. When I have a choice, I source materials that have dimensions that do not require a joint, but that is not always possible. But, you would not be able to detect a difference in blade characteristics between one that has a joint and one that does not. The one place where I insist on having no joint is on the face of the blade. However, that is for aesthetic purposes than functional purposes. Ross
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stiltt
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Joined: 07/15/2007 Location: Location Status: Offline Points: 1012 |
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Posted: 06/16/2013 at 5:47pm |
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Hello Ross,
In the last sentence you write about no joint on the blade's face: "that is for aesthetic purposes than functional purposes." does it mean even if the core at the level of the blade's face was made out of 2 pieces, we would not detect a difference? I believe so (because I see many commercial blades building the core out of many pieces) but I want to be sure I understood well. On other blades than yours, I can see sometimes 3 pieces total with 2 joints in the core --> 1 like you above and one across as well, 50mm from the top of the head and I can't feel a difference. The Donic Waldner Dotec Hinoki (3-ply all hinoki) rewards very highly in terms of feel (still in my top 3 in that category) and the core is made out of so many pieces: the head of the core has joints all over the place and it's never the same. It looks almost like some manufacturers play a puzzle game to save on core material and only focus on the visible plies; yes, I would not be surprised if middle plies were also made out of multiple pieces in some blades, and not necessarily the cheap ones... I am glad to have to insurance when I buy a RL blade that the only possible joint is 1) in the core and 2) at the level of the handle like shown above. |
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Ross Leidy
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Joined: 10/13/2011 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 402 |
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Posted: 06/16/2013 at 7:26pm |
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Yes, you shouldn't be able to detect any difference between either type of blade. I assume that the commercial manufacturers source plies that have been pieced and glued into very large sheets, which are then assembled and glued together into a large blank. Multiple blades are then cut out and the joints fall where they may.
Since I assemble a blade blank only large enough for single blade, I can be more careful about where the joints fall. While the joints should not affect playability, I still try to keep them away from the head when it's possible. |
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sonykurniawan
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Joined: 03/17/2014 Location: Indonesia Status: Offline Points: 77 |
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Posted: 06/13/2014 at 12:56pm |
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Sorry for reviving this thread back to life.
But for those who still have their Rapscallion blade for over a year, can you point out what you dont like about this blade? What are the weakness and strength... |
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Cncpen
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Posted: 06/21/2014 at 10:53am |
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Look like on one are using it now.
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rusttt
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Joined: 03/16/2014 Location: Danbury, CT Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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Posted: 06/21/2014 at 1:42pm |
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I still play with mine occasionally - it's one of the compact head designs with a Tenaly style handle. Likely I would use it more often if it was a typical BTY shape/handle. My new Leidy blade is based on the ZJ FL shape and it's terrific.
Pros: Light <80g Fast (OFF) Easy to loop Great flicks "snick" sound when hitting Cons: Very noticeable difference in speed between the edges and center - good for slow spinny serves, but punishes my bad technique sometimes Small head size on mine makes blocking harder  |
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fatt wrote: