TIBHAR Evolution rubber FX-P, EL-P, MX-S, MX-P

Today I tried evolution mx-p black on forehand. First impressions are it is worse than tenergy in almost every aspect.

after 7 days of MX-P on my blade it has lost the speed glue effect. EVERY ball I light brush goes into the net now where as it would bounced fast and high into the opponent from day 1-6.

:(

still good if I use some more power than when I first started playing on day 1 - 6.

the rubber is perfectly flat on the surface on the blade. i dont know what else to look for except to peel the rubber. The rubber is fine after being cleaned with rubber detergent. My guess is that it lost the speed glue effect and was dusty making the touch none-existent.

NextLevel wrote: ahsq wrote: the rubber is perfectly flat on the surface on the blade. i dont know what else to look for except to peel the rubber. The rubber is fine after being cleaned with rubber detergent. My guess is that it lost the speed glue effect and was dusty making the touch none-existent. If I didn't know your level, I would actually be puzzled as to what is happening.  Sometimes, you need to just learn to play with your equipment and forget about all these buzzwords like speed glue effect and touch.  Brushing too lightly just means you aren't picking up the ball and you need to develop a better feel for the ball. On Saturday night, someone looked at my rubber on an old blade and said it was dead.  But I picked it up and proceeded to loop spinny loops with it.  Very often, every small trivial issue with equipment becomes a big deal when one does not have good technique.  Pros have precision based games so for them those things matter.  For us, even at the 2000 level, the gap between our Mark V loops and Tenergy 05 loops is more about effort than speed glue effect.  You will hear my rubber popping even if I loop with Mark V - just not as loudly as Tenergy 05.

hi nextlevel

my analysis of the situation is perhaps he had a gluing mistaken when he applied the mx-p? because many people have made good review of it but his experience has varied so much. i am about 1500 and looking for new rubber but i think it must have a good speed glue effect and the proper pip structure for me to advance my game. can you advise me what is optimal for a standard teenager 2 wing chinese looper? regards

Ball dropping into the net on softer loops while behaving OK on more committed ones is quite typical of the rubber coming off.

It's quite common with the big pore sponges, as they absorb a lot of the glue. It doesn't mean it doesn't look flat.

So I also think it's a likely possibility. Going from good to dead in seven days is, on the other hand, very unlikely.

no NL, I will sell you for $4.95. 

ahsq wrote: no NL, I will sell you for $4.95.  maybe it has to do with my not cleaning the rubber from the night before and the dusts covered the topsheet. keep in mind this topsheet is very detrimental to dust and overall cleanliness like a lady.  I did 1 heavy layer of r. cement to blade, 2 heavy layers (wait to dry in between) on the rubber, rolled on it like it owed me money and then 10lb weight on top of 4 inches of papers for 12 hours over night. I doubt the glue job is the culprit in this situation here.

Oh. Dear.

too much?

Buy a big bottle of Donic Varioclean.  Buy it before the winter so that it doesn't freeze while shipping.  It will last you enough uses and reglues that you won't need to waste time.  You can buy it from timtts.be or paddlepalace.com.  It will save you a lot of headache and keep your glue jobs consistent.  I buy one bottle or less every year or so.  IT is so sticky and thin that you can leave it on the rubber and then just add it to the blade.  When you do this a few times, if you think the layer is to thick, the layer at that point is easy to peel off.  And if you like thicker layers, it is always easy to peel off.  Revolution glue is also good as well.

If you have only tried Tearmender, you tried the cheapest and worst. Any others?

One hour should be fine but with modern rubbers, good luck with that.

Rolling on rubbers intensely is also a no-no.

Edited by NextLevel - 09/08/2015 at 1:29pm

Maybe 3 mins or less.

im happy to report back that after one hour of exclusive forehand light brush.full loop topspin and blocking tonight, my MX-P did not suffer the fall into net syndrome aforementioned. It was as bouncy and spinny as the first day.

I think 3 factors might have been the cause:

1. the layer dust on the topsheet prevented the touch and made MX-P react like a cheap chinese rubber.

2. My stroke/stance/angle was off last time and that made the ball go into the net

3. The Stiga table was not as solid/good as the Kettle table I used tonight.

After tonight I dont think I will go back to Xiom Omegas when Evolutions are around....


Edited by ahsq - 09/10/2015 at 10:48pm

DreiZ wrote: Which of the evo rubbers is the lightest? I put 2 2.1-2.2mm MX-Ps on my SSCB 87g and it feels much heavier than my old TBALC + 2x T05 2.1mm. I remember the later was around ~186gs. I haven't weighted the Tibhar setup yet but it feels way over 195g. Idk maybe its the balance, cant tell yet. Also would 1.9-2.0mm MXP (or a lighter Evo) sheet have an at least ~5g of difference? Because if I can shave of ~10g total by going with smaller thickness I could live with that.

DReiZ, how is your MX-P going?

what is your wrist involved with? check your PM.