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Boosters/Tuners: Your Results!

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bbkon View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bbkon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/17/2014 at 9:34pm
Originally posted by stefashka stefashka wrote:

Originally posted by kurokami kurokami wrote:

it's not placebo effect. i've played with provincial and national hurricane 37-40 deg, then tried commercial briefly while waiting for more pieces. very big difference. 

So, what is the difference exactly? Maybe I'm making too few mistakes to see how much provincial is more forgiving than commercial or put just enough power and spin from myself that I don't see that the provincial version do it for me? Wink  I see that provincial version is a bit "nicer", "crispier" and more consistent (comparing to commercial, both boosted), but difference is not that big that I should care about adjusting my technique while switching between them.

Originally posted by kurokami kurokami wrote:

which member u got from? i pretty much know all ex-CNT players in US. 

I am not in the US and it was not a ex-CNT player, it's a young player from CNT-2, they visited Europe January this year together with Chen Qi and Qiu Yike giving some training to European juniors. 



where can  i buy a prov h3  sheet?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stefashka Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/18/2014 at 12:03am
Originally posted by bbkon bbkon wrote:

where can  i buy a prov h3  sheet?


I got Neo version fron TTnPP several times and once from powerpingpong, they all seemed legit to me. I also got some non-Neo orange sponge Provincials from Eacheng, they also were good when boosted.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zheyi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/18/2014 at 12:27am
it seems that blue sponge hurricane /skyline react better with tuner. Will upload my trial soon.
1st layer after a night...
2nd layer in the evening...
4th day evening...


Edited by zheyi - 02/20/2014 at 7:01pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hans Regenkurt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/18/2014 at 12:58pm
I boosted a new sheet of Donic Bluefire JP01 Turbo about two weeks ago. I literally poured Falco Long on it and put it on some blades while the dome was still on. I could immediately feel the improvement.

I put it on the final blade 2 days ago. The dome had already gone, it had a slight U shape. I am testing it extensively next week but the initial test on Friday showed that the spin is huge and the oil fixed the its dry feel. It grabs the ball and control has improved 30-40% on loops and counter strokes / blocks.

I did the same with Xiom Sigma II Pro but I applied biobooster to it. It still had a dome when I reattached it but the improvement in feel and control was drastic too. More to come later.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butt Stallion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/18/2014 at 1:47pm
I have a question about gluing your boosted rubber on your bat. How do you manage to do this?

Ill use VOC free Donic glue and I wait over a week till my H3s actully come down but I still have a lot of problems to glue on my Stiga Rosewood XO. 

Is Nittaku Finezip the best glue to do this? How much layers after boosting do you aply on the sponge? Is there any good technique to do it?  With my normal H3 it worked okay, but with my H3.50 and my Blue Whale 3 I actually had a lot of problems, they really didnt stick especially on the edge of writing... 


Edited by Butt Stallion - 05/18/2014 at 1:47pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hans Regenkurt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/18/2014 at 2:11pm
I never achieved as good adherence with Chinese rubbers as with Euro. It must be due to the material they use.

I usually sandpaper off some of the factory sealing from my blades, imho they just result in loss of feel. That might be one of the reasons why you do not manage to get it to stick properly.

Revolution is the glue I use, although it has some disadvantages the positive things outweigh them.

Pluses: it sort of seals the sponge, adheres better than the other glues I have tried (you will not get bubbles with it), it is very easy to remove after you build up 5-6 decent layers, it does not hurt most sponges (maybe the exception here is the very soft sponges, etc "Sound") and it can be fast to remove. If you use biobooster, etc TRF or similar, it is possible to tune the rubber without removing the buildup.

Minuses: some of the fellow players I talk to mention that it somehow eliminates feel and makes the racket sort of blunt. They use Blue Contact and they never tune. They may be right about this.

I have no experiences with Finezip.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote glanden.zheng Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/18/2014 at 9:09pm
Originally posted by Butt Stallion Butt Stallion wrote:

I have a question about gluing your boosted rubber on your bat. How do you manage to do this?

Ill use VOC free Donic glue and I wait over a week till my H3s actully come down but I still have a lot of problems to glue on my Stiga Rosewood XO. 

Is Nittaku Finezip the best glue to do this? How much layers after boosting do you aply on the sponge? Is there any good technique to do it?  With my normal H3 it worked okay, but with my H3.50 and my Blue Whale 3 I actually had a lot of problems, they really didnt stick especially on the edge of writing... 

CNT all use Finezip. The technique I've heard a lot of people do is apply one layer of Finezip (the Chinese pros who told me about this tells me to ALWAYS apply one glue first and apply booster over glue), blow dry that layer of glue then apply one layer of Dian Chi-like booster (the CNT uses some special Haifu one). After 10 hour or so to let it dry, apply another layer of glue and when blow dried, apply another layer of booster. Repeat for however long until after the last layer of booster is dried, apply one more layer of glue onto the rubber, chuck a layer onto your blade and glue. 

For me I put 3 layers of glue in one setting onto the rubber before I even start boosting, and then apply one layer of booster every 10 hours. Then I put that last layer of glue on the rubber just before I glue it on my blade. I save on glue applying sponge this way LOL

I don't get what you meant by "edge of writing", but I'm assuming it's a typo and you mean that it's peeling at the edges of the blade? That's quite normal (I get that when I glue the rubber on without waiting for the dome to settle) and you see the same phenomenon on many CNT's Hurricanes. Personally I don't think it really affects anything.

Check here, that's Wang Liqin's bat:


Edited by glanden.zheng - 05/18/2014 at 9:11pm
Butterfly Viscaria FL

FH: Hurricane 3 Prov

BH: Tenergy 05
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote simon_xuan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/18/2014 at 11:33pm
Wow, with so many layers of glue and booster, how do you retune? Do you remove glue first? Do you do the same on backhand rubber, such as T64. Thx
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zheyi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/19/2014 at 5:49am
I realised something too. Using voc glue, the tuning effect tends to go off faster than voc free glue. Is that true? Anyone experience that? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote channyboi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/19/2014 at 6:05am
I think you add less layer of booster to tenergy. If the glue job is done correctly, after taking rubber off, it should have a clean layer on sponge, just apt one layer of booster over that layer (don't take it off).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote simon_xuan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/19/2014 at 12:47pm
OK, thanks for the confirmation. I was under the impression you can do it with Dian Chi and Seamoon. But the Falco instruction says to apply it on the sponge directly. I suppose the oily matter will penetrate the glue layer somehow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote glanden.zheng Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/19/2014 at 7:59pm
Originally posted by channyboi channyboi wrote:

I think you add less layer of booster to tenergy. If the glue job is done correctly, after taking rubber off, it should have a clean layer on sponge, just apt one layer of booster over that layer (don't take it off).

+1

There is also a video on YouTube (I think the channel was PP Station) which has a detailed instructional in English for using the Falco Long as well. They apply it through the glue layer and it seemed to be fine. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote glanden.zheng Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/19/2014 at 8:02pm
Originally posted by zheyi zheyi wrote:

I realised something too. Using voc glue, the tuning effect tends to go off faster than voc free glue. Is that true? Anyone experience that? 

I don't know the exact reason, but of course! Boosters typically last a few days at least
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beeray1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/19/2014 at 9:07pm
That's exactly how I've always gone about it, glue first, and then for each layer of oil another layer of glue first. I've had really consistent results, and the effect lasts. Even after the strong effect wears off, the residual effect remains just like when you prime a rubber with speedglue, and I usually don't even re-tune the rubber anymore unless I've moved it around too many times, but even then it still plays very well without doing it again. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger Stillabower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/19/2014 at 10:16pm
Originally posted by beeray1 beeray1 wrote:

That's exactly how I've always gone about it, glue first, and then for each layer of oil another layer of glue first. I've had really consistent results, and the effect lasts. Even after the strong effect wears off, the residual effect remains just like when you prime a rubber with speedglue, and I usually don't even re-tune the rubber anymore unless I've moved it around too many times, but even then it still plays very well without doing it again. 
+1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Argothman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/19/2014 at 11:38pm
Originally posted by beeray1 beeray1 wrote:

That's exactly how I've always gone about it, glue first, and then for each layer of oil another layer of glue first. I've had really consistent results, and the effect lasts. Even after the strong effect wears off, the residual effect remains just like when you prime a rubber with speedglue, and I usually don't even re-tune the rubber anymore unless I've moved it around too many times, but even then it still plays very well without doing it again. 

Does Hurricane 3 remain relatively soft for a long period of time or does the hardness come back when the strong effect wears off?


Edited by Argothman - 05/19/2014 at 11:38pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote simon_xuan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/19/2014 at 11:43pm
I can see the rationale now. Sounds like a sandwiched tuning effect. I will try that approach. Thx.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote glanden.zheng Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/20/2014 at 12:27am
Originally posted by Argothman Argothman wrote:

Originally posted by beeray1 beeray1 wrote:

That's exactly how I've always gone about it, glue first, and then for each layer of oil another layer of glue first. I've had really consistent results, and the effect lasts. Even after the strong effect wears off, the residual effect remains just like when you prime a rubber with speedglue, and I usually don't even re-tune the rubber anymore unless I've moved it around too many times, but even then it still plays very well without doing it again. 

Does Hurricane 3 remain relatively soft for a long period of time or does the hardness come back when the strong effect wears off?

Hardness more or less doesn't come back

Also +2 on beeray, even without re-tuning a Hurricane in general is still much more playable once you've given it enough of a kick when tuning it new. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yesyup Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/20/2014 at 1:25am
I used to put Dian Chi Oil booster on Tenergy 64. 
Only two layers because the sponge is already soft.
The result is increasing in speed compare to untuned Tenergy 64. 
The effect is last for one month and the speed will return to untuned T64.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hans Regenkurt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/26/2014 at 12:56pm
Originally posted by Hans Regenkurt Hans Regenkurt wrote:

I got to try Three Sword Leap professional boosted with one think layer of Falco Long.

It was spinnier than any euro rubber when the ball came to where I was but otherwise it is slow and when the timing is just a bit off, the spin was below average. It felt like I should have put a lot more layers.

H3 Neo 39 deg was very fast and spinny. It felt like an all-wood blade is best with it. More on that later.


The conclusion is: unfortunately, H3 Neo did not show enough improvement. It is still a good rubber and maybe Falco Long is too week to bring out the beast of it. It could be better with proper Chinese oil, I do not know.

As for Three Sword Leap Professional, I think the topsheet is not really "professional". I tried it recently with biobooster instead of Falco and it is dead. For comparison, the topsheet of H3 commercial is a lot better.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hans Regenkurt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/26/2014 at 1:35pm
I completed my test of some rubbers last week. They were tuned and stuck on the blade when they still had a slight dome. The best thing about tuning them was that they gained a lot in control, now it is possible to play them without having to hold back stronger shots. When untuned, this was not possible.

All of them max:

Donic BF JP01 Turbo tuned with Falco Long
Donic BF M1 Turbo tuned with biobooster
Xiom Sigma II Pro tuned with biobooster
Victas V > 01 tuned with biobooster

I tested it with my partner blocking my forehand topspins, both soft and fast. The result is based on his subjective preception of the spin / curve / speed of the topspins and my error ratio (control).  They ranked as follows:

1. Donic BF M1 Turbo

It had awesome curve and spin and the topspins were very fast at the same time as confirmed by my training partner. It gave me confidence even on out of the position shots.  The whole rubber has some flex to it and I needed some adjustment because of it. Very good spin on soft and fast shots too. Good at varying the angle of the topspins and good over the table too.

2. Xiom Sigma II Pro

Control on fast topspins was definitely better than BF M1T but the spin on all kinds of topspins was a little below. Still very good though. The trajectory is shorter, BF M1T shoots the ball closer to the edge of the table by default, XSPII about 10 centimeters shorter.

3. Donic BF JP01T

The oil did not fix its very flat trajectory. Some topspins dipped lower than my partner had anticipated. He observed that the succession of the topspins I launched was easier to handle  than either of 1 or 2. However, the rubber became a lot more usable and the control issue went away. I would say it is a rather one dimensional rubber, not for those who like to vary the height of the topspin. Maybe it is for those who spray the ball around while it is ascending. What makes it difficult to play against is the ball does not come up as much after bouncing  when the opponent topspins. Still not really enjoyable to play.

4 Victas V > 01

I ranked this fourth because it is not really the same speed category as the other three. The throw is highest in comparison with the other three and I could not let my hand go as naturally as with the others. The spin was as good as on other ESN products. Personally I think the topsheet is German made too. Because the pimples are thinner and stand further apart, it has a softer feel and it makes it more suitable for backhand play. Or the forehand for those who play topspins at medium speed.

All of this is not to say that tuning these rubbers will make their user invincible but results in a more usable rubber. A thing that struck me is how much the control is better when 2.0 rubbers are tuned. A friend hand tuned Omega V Tours on him and they were a lot easier to counter / block with.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote seguso Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/26/2014 at 3:20pm
A very good player (top 60 Italy), who uses M1 boosted, told me he recently tried a friend's h3 national blue sponge (non neo), tuned properly, and it was faster than m1. He said you basically need to tune the glue, not the sponge. And for this reason you can't just use latex, you need the dhs glue and the dhs booster. This would explain a lot. What do you think?

He also said the rubber was chosen 2.0, in order not to exceed the thickness. Also that it did not last long; it made a bubble quickly, even though the topsheet looked as new.


Edited by seguso - 05/26/2014 at 3:26pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beeray1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/26/2014 at 3:30pm
Originally posted by seguso seguso wrote:

A very good player (top 60 Italy), who uses M1 boosted, told me he recently tried a friend's h3 national blue sponge (non neo), tuned properly, and it was faster than m1. He said you basically need to tune the glue, not the sponge. And for this reason you can't just use latex, you need the dhs glue and the dhs booster. This would explain a lot. What do you think?

He also said the rubber was chosen 2.0, in order not to exceed the thickness. Also that it did not last long; it made a bubble quickly, even though the topsheet looked as new.

You mean the DHS #1 Intensifier? I used to use that stuff, but I think it's a bit outdated. It had a great effect, but was meant for the #19 sponges initially. I think the important part about the glue is that it's thicker and very elastic. That's why a lot of them use Finezip. It's thick and very elastic, so however the tuning works out with the glue I think this amplifies the effect. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote seguso Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/26/2014 at 3:51pm
I am not sure about the booster. This is second hand information. He'll be able to tell me more in a few weeks. He said it is a 50 dollar rubber.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hans Regenkurt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/28/2014 at 5:02pm
Further tested the Victas V > 01 and I changed my opinion slightly: its topsheet's relative softness and high throw requires a little different technique and it is possible to launch very fast topspins close to the table. Very good. It may lack a little power in away from the table counter topspinning. Good rubber overall.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote janchor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/01/2014 at 5:28pm
Im playing M1 on my FH but I can't boost more than max 1 layer of falco (not long), if i put 2 layers the rubber gets really bad. I use one layer of blue contact before boost. Should I put more layers of glue before boost like someone did to Hurricane?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JigglyPuff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/06/2015 at 9:57pm
So I boosted my rubbers last night and I must say... they play a lot better. They are towards the end of their life but the boost definitely rejuvenated them

Boosted with Falco Tempo Booster, an extremely light coat, on both Bluefire M1 Turbo 2.0mm and IQUL SV 2.0mm

Couldn't tell much difference on the IQUL but the Bluefire was definitely much springier, spinier, and even more controllable.... I read these sorts of reviews beforehand and thought it was such a paradox, but now I find myself saying this...

I am probably gonna stick it to the ITTF and continue to do this... Happy boosting everyone...!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clarence247 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/06/2015 at 10:43pm
Originally posted by JigglyPuff JigglyPuff wrote:

So I boosted my rubbers last night and I must say... they play a lot better. They are towards the end of their life but the boost definitely rejuvenated them

Boosted with Falco Tempo Booster, an extremely light coat, on both Bluefire M1 Turbo 2.0mm and IQUL SV 2.0mm

Couldn't tell much difference on the IQUL but the Bluefire was definitely much springier, spinier, and even more controllable.... I read these sorts of reviews beforehand and thought it was such a paradox, but now I find myself saying this...

I am probably gonna stick it to the ITTF and continue to do this... Happy boosting everyone...!

1) yes booster rejuvinates dying rubbers and saves you $$

2) the reason why M1 reacted better than IQUL is that M1 is originally factory boosted.... that is...to play like an M1 it has to be boosted... by boosting it you reestablished it's properties...IQUL evidently plays ok without booster and boosting an old one cannot bring back all the quality it had when new
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hans Regenkurt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/07/2015 at 12:37am
Interestingly, I have come to find that Falco Long is not such a good booster. It makes the rubber rigid and less controllable compared to other boosters when applied in larger quantities. And its effect does not last so much longer.

In my experience, thinner boosters are the way to go and most pros tend to use those.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wturber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/07/2015 at 12:52am
Originally posted by seguso seguso wrote:

A very good player (top 60 Italy), who uses M1 boosted, told me he recently tried a friend's h3 national blue sponge (non neo), tuned properly, and it was faster than m1. He said you basically need to tune the glue, not the sponge. And for this reason you can't just use latex, you need the dhs glue and the dhs booster. This would explain a lot. What do you think?

He also said the rubber was chosen 2.0, in order not to exceed the thickness. Also that it did not last long; it made a bubble quickly, even though the topsheet looked as new.

If the rubber is doming, then it is pretty clear you are affecting the sponge in a significant way.  His comment about starting with only 2.0 mm sponge confirms that.   I'd guess that when tuning max sponge rubbers, that tuning would make the rubber thicker than 4.0mm much as he seems to.



Edited by wturber - 09/07/2015 at 12:54am
Jay Turberville
www.jayandwanda.com
Hardbat: Nittaku Resist w/ Dr. Evil or Friendship 802-40 OX
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