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Donic Blue contact glue

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Baal View Drop Down
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    Posted: 09/08/2013 at 10:05pm
A much thicker latex glue that the manufacturer says is designed for large-pored sponges like Bluefire, Tenergy, etc.  Because it is thicker (more viscous), it does not penetrate so far into the large pores, and so the sponge maintains maximum springiness -- at least that is the idea.  I'm not sure why it is blue, probably just a gimmick.  Very easy to use.  Even though it is quite thick, it does not dry more quickly than regular glue (and it is dries much more slowly than Tearmender).  This means you can get a very even coating on the blade and rubber.  So far, I very much like it.  Donic claims it is easy to clean off your blade.  I won't know anything about that for awhile, though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote haggisv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/08/2013 at 10:56pm
Thanks Baal, I had been wondering about that glue.Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hans Regenkurt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/08/2013 at 11:31pm
So far I have found it really makes the sponge springier. It has that ammonia smell like Revolution nr 3 but it is a lot thicker and it glues differently. I am sure the blue colour is just marketing. I have the impression that it dries very quickly and one layer is amply enough for the blade and the rubber.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/09/2013 at 12:58am
Absolutely, one layer is sufficient for very strong adhesion.  Yes, Donic marketing team is obsessed with color blue lately.  By drying time above, I am comparing to Tear Mender.  One problem with Tear Mender is that it dries out even before you have finished spreading it over the whole blade or rubber (unless you dilute it a little, and even then).   The thickness of the Blue Contact also makes it easier to control and less messy (especially compared to Tear Mender, but all the other WBGs as well).  It stays where you put it.  I have not used other glues in awhile, I had been using Tear Mender, but I do have the impression that Blue Contact dries a little bit faster than Free Chaque etc., as Hans says.


Edited by Baal - 09/09/2013 at 1:01am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger Stillabower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/09/2013 at 7:54am
How easy does it come off the sponge ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote AndySmith Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/09/2013 at 9:28am
Originally posted by Baal Baal wrote:

Yes, Donic marketing team is obsessed with color blue lately. 
 
Yeah.  You can wear your Bluebird shoes, and use Blue Contact glue to stick your Bluefire rubbers to your Blue Feeling blade:
 
This was a great signature until I realised it was overrated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote j-bo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/09/2013 at 9:34am
Originally posted by Roger Stillabower Roger Stillabower wrote:

How easy does it come off the sponge ?


X2.. this is what I'm waiting to hear about also.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/09/2013 at 9:36am
Don't know yet how easily it comes of sponge -- or whether it will take big chunks of wood off the blade too.  That's a bigger concern for me since I'm not generally testing blades of my own these days, so I keep a rubber on a blade until it is dead and then don't reuse the rubber.  But if the glue splinters the top ply, that would really suck.  Maybe somebody else knows. 


Edited by Baal - 09/09/2013 at 9:40am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote igorponger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/09/2013 at 9:49am
   
THE BLUE COLORATION OF THE DONIC NEW ADHESIVE... WHAT FOR???


I strongly suspect the blue coloration of the glue is NOT just for decoration.
i can well argue for my presumption..

Some alcohol products (eg. methyl alcohol, dimetylhlycolle, etc) are known to be blue or orange coloured, which is a "warning coloration" to better distinguish a toxic, non-potable product.    
Alcohol liquids are well known for being able to effectively prevent the latex-based solution from coagulation on a cold weather.


   ------------
HOME-MADE EXPERIMENT.

Let's have an experiment.
Put a small sample of the Donic Blue, just a thimbleful , into the freezing chamber and see if it gets frozen after a while at -5* Celsius subzero....
Be sure to keep the glue sample in a well sealed bottle.

     -------------
Waiting for reports of the experiment impatiently.

It would be very advantageus for all our players to have got the opportunity to buy latex-based adhesives in a WINTER time without the risk of getting some "bublegum" in the glue bottle on arrival.
Getting coagulated at subzero temperature is a gross defect with all the current WGs on market. It seems Donic managed to cope the problem..
Let's complete the experiment and see ...    

Edited by igorponger - 09/09/2013 at 10:19am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/09/2013 at 10:11am
Or we wait until Joola introduces their green version of the same glue in 3, 2, 1......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger Stillabower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/09/2013 at 10:11am
Coagluation is why the put ammonia in the latex glue.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carbon TT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/09/2013 at 10:45am
Originally posted by Baal Baal wrote:

Don't know yet how easily it comes of sponge -- or whether it will take big chunks of wood off the blade too.  That's a bigger concern for me since I'm not generally testing blades of my own these days, so I keep a rubber on a blade until it is dead and then don't reuse the rubber.  But if the glue splinters the top ply, that would really suck.  Maybe somebody else knows. 

If you really cared to find out, you could always try removing the glue from one of the cut-offs.  Obviously this doesn't give any information about how it will come off the blade though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/09/2013 at 10:56am
At this point, I don't have cutouts.  This time I took the sheets of rubber off my blade -- they were just about due to be replaced -- and carefully removed all the old glue residue and then re-glued them with Blue Contact.  I wanted to see if it affects rubber performance using rubber at the same wear level on the same blade.  It is not a perfect experiment for several reasons, but maybe they add some tuner to the glue or something.  The main reason I did that is I wanted to practice gluing with it first before using it on the two new sheets of Tenergy that are sitting on my desk.  Just in case there was something weird about this glue, I didn't want to be taken by surprise with expensive new rubber sheets (as happened to me once with a bottle of Haifu glue, which turns out to need multiple layers and a hair dryer, and was in general a total pain to use with no redeeming features that I could see).  Blue Contact turns out to be easy to use.

It turns out that I have another old sheet of something lying around.  I am going to try that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/09/2013 at 11:24am
OK.  I just put some Blue Contact on a an older sheet of rubber I had lying around and let it dry.  I didn't attach it to a blade.  Once it dries, is really hard to remove it from the sponge and it doesn't want to come off in a single sheet.  In fact, I put the glue on an area about 2 cm each side and gave up atempting to remove it after about 5 minutes of trying.   I don't care much about that personally, but it could be a big issue if you like to tune---or for some other reason need to detach/reattach your sheets before replacing them with new ones.  Thanks CarbonTT for suggesting that experiment.

Here is a description.  Tear Mender mostly stays attached to rubber rubber when you remove it and sometimes can be pulled off in a single sheet, but it also sometimes has a weird effect of making the top sheet look uneven.  Dried Blue Contact on sponge is more like trying to remove bubble gum from a piece of wood after it has been left there for about 6 months.


Edited by Baal - 09/09/2013 at 11:27am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger Stillabower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/09/2013 at 11:50am
Baal, I found if you put TM on to thick you can have a uneven look on top sheet, I thin it with just a little ammonia and put 4 to 6 thin layers. I know this is time consuming,but I always end up with a nice glue job, and it's easy to remove from the sponge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote igorponger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/09/2013 at 2:45pm

JOIN WITH THE EXPERIMENT !!

dear Friends,
Please be aware of the fact about natural latex international traffics:.

-- all the major exporters of natural latex, --Malaysia, Vietnam, Tailand etc.-- would discontinue any bulk shipment of the product to most of nothern Regions of Europa as long as from November to April just because of the cold whether.

Adding some ammonya into the prevulcanized latex liquids is NO prevention from latex getting frozen and thus decomposed under cold winter conditions.
Some specific freezing inhibitors are needed, other than the ammonia infusion.

Considering this all. I dared a guess that the blue ingredient to DONIC Contact Adhesive would be methyl alcohol which is well known for a strong antifreezing effect.

Course, the guess of mine needs to be verified through an experiment. Let's have the DONIC adhesive chilled down to 5* Celsius below zero and see what happens.

If, upon unfreezing, we do find no, or minor deterioration of the glue sample, this would well argue in favour of my guess --that Donic is now using a blue coloured methyl additive for the DC formula.

Join with the experiment, I want you !!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger Stillabower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/09/2013 at 3:14pm
The reason for the ammonia is not because of freezing, it is because of being exposed to the air and turning to like bubble gum. A water based latex glue will freeze at certain temp. and is ruin. I don't believe that they would put anti-freeze in it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/09/2013 at 5:08pm
The freezing point of an aqueous solution with all of those solutes that you have in TT glue should be pretty low!  It is because of the colligative properties of aqueous solutions.  That's a term in physical chemistry that says that the more solutes you put in the water, no matter what they are, then physical properties changes, one of them being to lower the melting/freezing point of the solution.  Remember in organic chemistry lab where you used this to figure out the purity of your product? 

Of course, Russia is really really really cold, so it may not be enough to keep glue from freezing in the mail there.

Methanol would keep it from freezing.  You add too much, then you have problems with the glue not being VOC free. Also, normally methanol is colorless, even when they add stuff to it to warn you from drinking it (because it is very poisonous).  So Blue Contact may very well have some methanol in it (I don't smell it, though), but it would most likely not be the thing that turns it blue.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AcudaDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/10/2013 at 12:33pm
I ordered a 90ml bottle of Donic Blue to tryout since I play with Donic Bluefire. Will post my review with it later in the week when I get it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carbon136 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/19/2015 at 7:21am
Could you somebody give me an advice how to boost a rubber with a booster and this glue? Should I apply the glue first, or the booster? Because this glue is designed not to go deep into the sponge, but if I apply the glue first and then booster, it probably would...

Please, if anybody knows, answer ASAP if you can, thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote haggisv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/19/2015 at 8:27am
Since someone resurrected this topic, some of you might be interested in my review of Donic Blue Contact glue here.

Sorry, I can't answer your question about boosters carbon136, as I have not tried it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hans Regenkurt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/19/2015 at 11:27am
Originally posted by carbon136 carbon136 wrote:

Could you somebody give me an advice how to boost a rubber with a booster and this glue? Should I apply the glue first, or the booster? Because this glue is designed not to go deep into the sponge, but if I apply the glue first and then booster, it probably would...

Please, if anybody knows, answer ASAP if you can, thanks!


Remove the glue first, my experience shows that it dampens a lot if it builds up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carbon136 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/19/2015 at 11:28am
Remove it when?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hans Regenkurt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/19/2015 at 11:31am
Remove the glue if there is any and apply the booster after that. IF your rubber is new, apply the booster first.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carbon136 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/19/2015 at 11:37am
The rubber is new. I already put the glue on it, and after that booster too. But only very thin layers.

EDIT: Boosting seems OK, the rubber is getting a dome after just 1 hour.


Edited by carbon136 - 08/19/2015 at 11:44am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m123456 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/15/2017 at 12:28am
does anyone know how to remove the blue contact glue. I glued it on my rubber for tenergy 80, and like now it has formed a layer of blue-drakish rubber layer and like rubber came of the blade quite easily, like no residue on the blade. it's prob because I've lacquered it, but like the rubber sponge has this layer of glue reside that's impossible to remove. I've tried removing it but it's really strenuous and peels of piece of the sponge come off even when taking out a little of the glue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/15/2017 at 12:35am
I never found a way to get it off rubber. I tried aseveral things and sventually gave up.

Be glad you laquered your blade because otherwise this glue would badly damage your blade. It seals very tightly to both blade and rubber. Too tightly, unfortunately.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m123456 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/15/2017 at 2:27am
why is it so expensive when this crap can't do the job correctly????Angry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/15/2017 at 2:33am
Good question.  Maybe somebody will have tried some other tricks, but I tried peeling it off but only manged to get pull of pieces of sponge.  Then I tried using booster.  Made a bit of a slimy mess but still only got off a little of the glue.  Fortunately, the rubber was pretty old and I was just transferring it to a spare blade (I usually use a rubber until it is dead and never detach it).

If getting glue off rubber is important to you (because maybe you move it from one blade to another, or just feel like periodically removing it helps it play better), probably the best stuff on the market is Revolution 3 glue but it takes a little longer to use because you need several coats.  For ease of use but still won't hurt your blade, there is Butterfly Free Chaque 2, but it's is harder to get off the blade.  Some people like Nittaku Finezip too, and something similar, Stiga Attach.  All of those are better than Blue Thunder.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonyer1980 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/15/2017 at 2:47am
It´s curious that TT non VOC glues still keep the same formula as they were released. Zero improvement on TT glues so far during theses years, and same insame prices as well.


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