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I know you all want to say "I told you so" |
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Rhainur
Super Member Joined: 05/04/2014 Location: Dubai Status: Offline Points: 102 |
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Posted: 01/02/2015 at 3:03am |
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In life, there are really not many things more satisfying than being right about something when the person you were arguing with was convinced you were wrong, but unfortunately, politeness prevents us from rubbing it in their faces.
I'd like to give some of you the chance to enjoy that satisfaction without having to be worried about politeness (although it's the internet, so it's not like a lot of people care about politeness anyway) Short version of story: As a new player, I chose equipment that was too fast for me to control and now am "downgrading" to slower equipment. I will now be one more person who'll warn new players not to make this mistake, and whom the new players will ignore. Long version: Last December, I got a Timo Boll ALC. At that point, I had been playing for a little over half a year, but I had been playing almost every day for at least a couple of hours and had improved/risen quite a lot in the group I was playing with, all of whom had started playing much before me. Why TB ALC? I liked Timo Boll's style, I knew I enjoyed attacking on both BH and FH, and tended to loop more than flat hits. All the reviews were extremely positive, and it just made sense. I started off with Mark V HPS on it, but in April I got 2 sheets of Tenergy 05 and had the full Boll setup I had a lot of fun, and throughout 2014 I continued playing every day. Very early on I joined a club and was fortunate enough to befriend higher level players who taught me the importance of doing rallies and drills rather than showing up and playing games for 2 hours straight. My technique and consistency slowly started going up. However, 3 events occurred that made me reconsider my approach.
3 days ago I ended up going back to my old wooden blade, a Stiga Offensive Classic WRB. Yes, it felt slower while doing rallies but...suddenly using my full power swing was actually putting the ball back on the table, I could block shots that used to go flying away from the table, and I never actually noticed a lack of speed in my attacking, since I have more than enough strength/power to attack the ball. So at least for the first half of 2015, I'll be retiring the TB ALC and figuring out just how slow my equipment needs to be. Maybe I'll start EJ'ing and go crazy over beautiful wood blades. In any case, please feel free to vent all the smugness some of you must have built up while reading this post
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*_strataras_*
Gold Member Joined: 04/19/2010 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 1156 |
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After 2 months I started table tennis, I bought my first custom racket.The blade was a Donic waldner diablo senso (with fiberglass and OFF-) with a donic vario soft and a butterfly sriver fx.These were the years when we were still fresh-gluing with the old glue.After 4 months I decided to change my racket because I had 2-3 catalogues at that time and I was impressed by a lot of new and old blades I was seeing.I decided to see the most powerfull of the catalogue and it was the butterfly primorac carbon and for the rubbers I decided to take a pair of butterfly bryce (one of the most fast rubbers).When this setup is glued with the old glue, the result is a rocket which I couldn't control for my level, so after my coach advice and my personal, bad experience in official matches, I decided to move to a M.Maze OFF, which was too fast either.I then bought a Kong Linghui euro which was very nice and controlable blade but very heavy.I turned into some more controlable rubbers too such as tackifire and I started to make my moves better and generally seeing everyday improving.So I didn't make this mistake again and till now, I am using a very controlable setup.
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doraemon
Gold Member Joined: 05/14/2007 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 1738 |
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I can play with fast equipments but I am doing better with ALL+ or OFF- blades.
However, there were some heated discussions few months back (or last year??) regarding the merit of starting with fast equipments. And some testified that they have seen the speed of the equipment is not a hindrance to the progress of young players. On the other hand, I belong to the group that prefer slower blades while starting / developing your strokes. Edited by doraemon - 01/02/2015 at 4:06am |
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Blade : Just wood
FH : black rubber BH : red rubber |
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APW46
Assistant Moderator Joined: 02/02/2009 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3331 |
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I told you so...
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The Older I get, The better I was.
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NextLevel
Forum Moderator Joined: 12/15/2011 Location: Somewhere Good Status: Offline Points: 14842 |
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Good to hear, Rhainur. I won't say I told you so because I know people who have had success with your old approach. It usually boils down to how much coaching we have and how we want to play.
Some of us like to swing harder and get more dip and arc and some people like shorter, flatter quick strokes with more pace than spin. That's one difference. Usually, the problem with a beginner using fast equipment is that their timing is too poor to compensate or learn how to compensate for the increased speed/spin. In fact, this is the same issue for a higher level player who says equipment is too fast, but they can compensate far better if given time, but don't want to usually because changing habits is harder than sticking to what they know. As your timing gets better, you may revisit this question and end up in the same place or move to a different place. What I have found is that the changes to the speed of my equipment rarely improve my game, but they often change the way I feel playing it. |
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I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
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Rhainur
Super Member Joined: 05/04/2014 Location: Dubai Status: Offline Points: 102 |
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heavyspin
Gold Member Joined: 08/16/2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1533 |
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An often overlooked benefit of the slower blade is that it helps one keep their pushes low and short.
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NextLevel
Forum Moderator Joined: 12/15/2011 Location: Somewhere Good Status: Offline Points: 14842 |
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Yeah, but when you are starting out and trying to blast the ball past people all the time, who cares about pushing short...
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I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
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NextLevel
Forum Moderator Joined: 12/15/2011 Location: Somewhere Good Status: Offline Points: 14842 |
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Just switch either the blade or the rubber but not both whenever you plan to change over the next year or two. Switching both at the same time is what usually leads to disaster.
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I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
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BH-Man
Premier Member Joined: 02/05/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5042 |
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I never buy the punch line of pundits about ALL+ class blades and control rubbers that it is the only way to go and if you don't use them, you will hit everything long and crash n burn. I believe if a player cannot read spi, cannot be on balance, cannot get into position, cannot hit the ball within the effective strike zone... that that player will miss shots using ANY bat.
I have my own reasons why at the end of the day, I endorse similar equipment for those who do not know the direction they wish to pursue. The best benefit I see in an ALL+ blade vs and OFF blade is that when you play witht the ALL+ blade, usually, you have to make another shot or two or three to setup your finish. Playing in this manner gives your game another dimension you didn't develop before. It is good to have well trained options. |
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Korea Foreign Table Tennis Club
Search for us on Facebook: koreaforeignttc |
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JimT
Premier Member Joined: 10/26/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 14602 |
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My experience tells me that there are at least two ways of looking at it.
First, I agree that having a slower setup is, more often than not, quite beneficial. More of your strokes land on the table, you get better control etc etc. So on one hand you have that big plus. Second, however, is the fact that for some people having a slower setup either doesn't satisfy their sense of enjoyment, or they believe (and some of them might be even right) that for them it is a trade-off worth the price. Usually that happens when you have to play against younger, faster and better opponents. They will not be impressed that you managed to return the ball 10% or even 20% more times than before - they will however gladly seize on the fact that your shots are a bit slower, with less deception, and generally less dangerous for them. The fact that they will have to hit three power-loops against you vs two as they did before, won't bother them. It might however bother you if you are in a worse physical shape than you would like yourself to be. The rallies will become on average a bit longer, and your stamina will likely suffer. Also, another factor that might be of importance here, is whether you use deceptive rubbers/combo like LPs, anti, hardbat. For those, reasons in item 2 will probably be a bit less crucial. So, as always, it is a compromise. For a developing or upcoming player, whose job is usually not to win the matches but play better and more consistently, first option is the must. For advanced amateurs, mileage may vary, especially if we are talking about match results. |
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Single Ply Hinoki Club, Founding Member
Say "no!" to expensive table tennis equipment. Please... |
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LOOPMEISTER
Platinum Member Joined: 11/13/2008 Location: U.S.A. Status: Offline Points: 2486 |
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There's about 540 blades out there between ALL+ and a Timo Boll ALC. I'm a convert from carbon to all-wood. The extra feeling and slightly slower speed has done wonders for my game, but I still won't go near an ALL+ blade. Carbon (and ALC, etc) are probably too fast for the AVG tournament players, but that's up to them to figure out. But at the same time, no USATT player over 1000 has any business using an ALL+ blade unless they are defenders.
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bbkon
Premier Member Joined: 04/19/2005 Location: Afghanistan Status: Offline Points: 7260 |
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it depends how you score more points, i need a more accurate(forgiving) OFF blade than the clipper with better feel
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Rhainur
Super Member Joined: 05/04/2014 Location: Dubai Status: Offline Points: 102 |
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NextLevel
Forum Moderator Joined: 12/15/2011 Location: Somewhere Good Status: Offline Points: 14842 |
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That's not my point - my point is that most beginners start out not thinking about things like pushing short. Samsonov Force Pro or Stratus Powerwood are decent alternatives.
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I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
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cole_ely
Premier Member Joined: 03/16/2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6898 |
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I know so many good players who use slower equipment. I sold a w6 to Freddie Gabriel because the new ye were coming in too hard. Mitch Seidenfeld uses a super soft Banda blade.
Music to my ears. You can't develop arm speed if you're afraid of the racket. |
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Wavestone St with Illumina 1.9r, defender1.7b
Please let me know if I can be of assistance. |
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Crowsfeather
Super Member Joined: 08/03/2013 Location: Thailand Status: Offline Points: 448 |
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You can handle TMB ALC.
1st Try to remember ball placement. Keep practice placement from a single blue spot to just one red spot. Don't rush for top spin or loop. Just do a normal - simple hitting, don't try to make it fast or rush your movement, keep it on a rhythm over and over, until you are confidence enough. Do it both back hand and forehand. This really help, it does. 2. Learn how to position yourself. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlJ_4zdaYhQ See this video, this guy always say, neutral position, according to what I mention above, (ball placement). Positioning help you to hit more effectively, as your body do the right swing and right power. 3.Practice short play and try to keep ball low. This help you to make your shot more delicate. 4.Reading spin takes time, it might be a while. I'm sorry that I don't know how to help. 5.Get used to a TT set up is like riding a horse, tame it. lolz 6. If you are not confidence, a slower blade is A GREAT WAY !! Hope this might help. Edited by Crowsfeather - 01/03/2015 at 12:01pm |
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I'm no longer an EJ and I'm proud .
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lineup32
Gold Member Joined: 12/06/2012 Location: Calif Status: Offline Points: 1195 |
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+1
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BH-Man
Premier Member Joined: 02/05/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5042 |
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Fatt, I have ALWAYS many times went on forums with my position against pundits and their one way only works doctrine, yet I end up agreeing with many of their equipment recommendations (except I am totally against thin sponged rubbers) for a player who hasn't yet decided on a playing style and need a bat that will allow him the possibility to develop every fundamental of the game. I usually say a similar line that an ALL+ to OFF- bat with classic or modern offensive control rubbers is a good choice.
For my own reasons, I differ, but generally agree with the pundit. Their way is tried and true, but it isn't the only effective way.
I always here that if the spong is thicker than 1.7 or if the blade has carbon ball will fly out and if they have no coach their stroke will be jerky relying on the blade for speed... blah blah blah. If a player has no coach, he will not develop proer fundamentals like hitting in the strike zone, bad stance, reaching, bad timing, bad shot selection, bad transfer of weight and we could go on... ALL+ blade with thin rubber or any kind of bat will not help a player who is hopelessly terrible in fundamentals.
The LEAST publicized aspect about a bat that is a step or two or three slower than what you normally use is that when you choose to TRY to finish the point on the first presentable chance, your chances of hitting it by or through the player is not so good as before. That causes you to make a better preparation for the finish with another 1-3 connecting shots using tactical intelligence. This is an aspect that many players who use OFF and above class setups do not develop enough. having this style of play available to them as an option in rallies or matches can only be a positive thing.
EVERY time I long term tested a slower blade (with the same Aurus/XP 2008 rubbers) I was forced to make another 1-3 shots to get a high percentage opportunity to finish the point. When I operated TBS with any rubber, I went for the finish on the first presentable chance or wnet for a heavy spin opener then a finish. Using Lissom, 896, Spear, Amazon, Sparticus, Allround Evolution, and anything else I cannot remember ATM... I was forced to lay off trying to finish right away and make better quality connecting shots to keep control of the point and be more patient and high percentage in trying to setup a finish or win by placement and consistency.
The last sentence is a confession and truth of the value of playing with an uncomfortable slower bat you are not accustomed to using.
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Korea Foreign Table Tennis Club
Search for us on Facebook: koreaforeignttc |
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APW46
Assistant Moderator Joined: 02/02/2009 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3331 |
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So true.
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The Older I get, The better I was.
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Rhainur
Super Member Joined: 05/04/2014 Location: Dubai Status: Offline Points: 102 |
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I've been using the slower setup for 5-6 days now, and all the practice partners I've mentioned it to have said that they didn't really notice a drop in the speed of my attacks at all, while on the other hand I've noticed that it's a bit easier for me to land blocks/return balls, and I feel much more comfortable swinging with my full power and being confident the ball will land on the table. What I'm taking away from this is that Rakza 9 + TB ALC is too fast for my playstyle + skill level. I had wondered about this but I had no way of being sure without trying a slower setup for a decent amount of time. I felt really uncomfortable about making a judgement based on borrowing someone's racket for 20 minutes and trying it. Now I've spent 15+ hours with this and I can definitely say that I didn't need that much speed. Now, NextLevel has said that I should change either the blade or the rubber, and I'm inclined to agree with him. I do like the larger sweet spot of the ALC, so it seems like the solution would be to go for a softer/slower rubber on it, but even in the Rakza range I could choose between a thinner Rakza 9 vs a Rakza 7 vs a Rakza 7 Soft. Maybe I'll just work my way through the list? :P I was hoping to stick with one setup in 2015, at least in the first half
Edited by Rhainur - 01/04/2015 at 8:16am |
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NextLevel
Forum Moderator Joined: 12/15/2011 Location: Somewhere Good Status: Offline Points: 14842 |
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FWIW, I find Rakzas in general to be faster and less controllable than the Tenergy 05 for looping, but that view may vary from person to person. T05 has so much dip that it tames faster blades when looping, and even makes slower blades fast as well if the spin component is well used. That said, what I was really pointing to was that if you want to change anything about a setup, you should not change both the blade and the rubber - only the blade first so you can understand what the blade is doing. Then you can change the rubbers on that blade if you want to try a new setup. Or you can change the rubbers first to see what that is doing and then change the blade. While I have changed equipment for the last 5 months, I have mostly been using 3 rubbers on 3 blades - I am now very familiar with Tenergy 05, Rasant Grip and Big Dipper and used them on Force One pro blades, Xiom Vega Blades, and Rossi Emotions. That way, you get a better idea of what is changing as you go from one blade to another or one rubber to another. Trying an entirely new set up just leads to confusion as you aren't learning much about how what you left behind is really different from what you are moving to in any reasonable way. Blades are often different across ranges of shots and sometimes, we overvalue the points we win on offense, but forget about all the points lost on defense, especially blocking and passive service return. You also should probably stick to one rubber, one blade and one setup for long enough that you can get an idea of how it performs inside out. That I think is extremely valuable. Final note: I have found all my favorite blades to cost less than $60. Crazy but true.
Edited by NextLevel - 01/04/2015 at 11:56am |
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I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
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Baal
Forum Moderator Joined: 01/21/2010 Location: unknown Status: Offline Points: 14336 |
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Just my opinion, but it may be too soon to say anything. After you have played some tournaments or leagues against a wider range of opponents, or after a month or so, you will know more. I'm not saying it wasn't the right move (for reasons that Cole and APW noted, you really can't be afraid of your blade). But it kind of takes awhile for all of the ramifications to become clear (if you attack with a blade that is too slow you will find yourself off balance a lot). And also what JimT said. This happens a lot, by which I mean people try a slow blade and "get religion". (And some people advocate slower equipment with almost religious piety.) Then later they realize it wasn't all it was cracked up to be. Or they realize that what they had before really was too fast. So you will see. |
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jt99sf
Premier Member Joined: 04/29/2005 Location: San Francisco Status: Offline Points: 4949 |
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+1. It heavily depends on who you play and under certain conditions.
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Photino/Super Viscaria : H3 (FH)/Dr N pips(BH)
林德成 HardBat:Hock 3-Ply /Dr Evil |
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NextLevel
Forum Moderator Joined: 12/15/2011 Location: Somewhere Good Status: Offline Points: 14842 |
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Agreed, but I will say this - when I use it against my coach and execute all the shots I usually do, and I use it for a 30 minute session of service practice, I get a good idea pretty quickly. However, part of the key here is Rhainur's playing level and how he wins points. There is also the possibility of fatigue as he swings harder to execute certain shots but he might put more balls on the table when blocking passively. That said, I find Razka 9 harder to loop with then Tenergy 05 when I use a fast blade. Not enough spin so it makes my loops go too long.
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I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
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CraneStyle
Silver Member Joined: 08/06/2013 Location: Europe Status: Offline Points: 786 |
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@ Rhainhur - TB ALC is a blade that can be slowed down to All-/ Def - Tackiness Chop/ Xiom Musa, for example...
You could even do a slow budget setup with Konkataku 868 or similar for starters... Or faster, as with your Raska 9 setup... If you liked the feel of the TB ALC just clock the rubbers down and enjoy. ... That versatile blade can start and progress with you as you progress... |
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1. Mizutani Jun ZLC, FH T80, BH T05
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kenneyy88
Premier Member Joined: 01/06/2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4074 |
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So you are still using fast rubber, and slower blade?
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Rhainur
Super Member Joined: 05/04/2014 Location: Dubai Status: Offline Points: 102 |
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NextLevel
Forum Moderator Joined: 12/15/2011 Location: Somewhere Good Status: Offline Points: 14842 |
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Because the blade dominates when you swing hard or block fast shots, I think slower blade is better unless you already have advanced timing. OFF- is slow enough for most people. Or even all wood OFF.
Edited by NextLevel - 01/05/2015 at 12:26am |
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I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
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CraneStyle
Silver Member Joined: 08/06/2013 Location: Europe Status: Offline Points: 786 |
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Really...? I guarantee that Xiom Musa Max sponge (or similar non-tensor) will slow down a TB ALC dramatically on EVERY shot compared to Raska 9... |
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1. Mizutani Jun ZLC, FH T80, BH T05
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