Alex Table Tennis - MyTableTennis.NET Homepage
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Different Glues: Pro's and Cons
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Different Glues: Pro's and Cons

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  123 4>
Author
NoRema View Drop Down
Silver Member
Silver Member
Avatar

Joined: 02/04/2015
Location: On The Table
Status: Offline
Points: 564
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote NoRema Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Different Glues: Pro's and Cons
    Posted: 04/05/2015 at 9:29pm
Comments to expand my list would be greatly appreciated :)

Strongest Bond
      • Butterfly Free Chack
      • Donic Blue Contact
      • Rubber Cement
      • Tulpe?? (possibly)
Average Bond
      • Nittaku Finezip
      • Donic Varioclean
      • Tearmender
      • Haifu BlueWhale (borderline weaker bond)
Weaker Bond (needs multiple layers)
      • Revolution 3
      • DHS #15
      • Haifu BlueWhale (borederline average bond)



Revolution 3:
  • Very cheap for a lot of glue.
  • Takes multiple layers of glue, otherwise it wont stick
  • Ease of removal: Average, takes about 5-10 minutes and doesn't destroy rubber or splinter blade
  • No need for sealing
Butterfly Free Chack
  • 1 Layer of glue is plenty, The glue is extremely strong
  • If you care about your blade you better seal it. This glue is strong enough to splinter the wood when you remove the rubber.
  • Virtually impossible to get off your rubber without tearing holes in the sponge.
Donic Vario Clean
  • From the looks of reviews/comments this seems very similar to nittaku finezip. (this is a good thing)
  • Removal of the glue isn't difficult but it is still strong enough to bond the rubber to the blade firmly.
  • Not likely to splinter an unsealed blade but it's still possible.
  • One thin layer of glue on the blade and rubber is all that's needed.
Donic Blue Contact
  • another very strong glue, 1 layer on the blade and rubber should be plenty.
  • I've splintered a blade with this stuff before, it was the first time i had ever done so, so i learned to start sealing them.
  • Also extremely hard to get the glue off the sponge, but not quite as hard as free chack.
  • Playing characteristics are great for this rubber, Especially for rubbers with larger pores: Like Tenergy, or the bluefire series rubbers. The reason this glue is great for porous rubbers is because even when it settles, it stays very thick. This makes it so none of the glue seeps into the sponge.
  • My all time favorite glue.
Elmer's Rubber Cement
  • I hate this stuff with a passion but it works great for gluing rubber onto a blade.
  • Easy to find, (any craft store/walmart/cvs/virtually anywhere)
  • removal of this is the absolute worst among any others. Once you remove the rubber from the blade there will be sticky spots on the wood that you have to rub at for about 20 minutes to try and ball up and take off.
Haifu Blue Whale WBG
  • Another glue with great value. 
  • Multiple layers are needed.
  • No need to seal blade.
  • Removal of the glue from the sponge is simple, comes off in one stretchy,rubbery sheet.
  • One of my favorite glues.

Nittaku Finezip (more info please)
  • Very Expensive
  • 1 layer works well and it is also very easy to clean up. 
  • no issues gluing on sealed blades and doesn't take too long to remove to the glue (generally). I have occasionally run into times where it was more of a struggle though.
  • If money isn't an issue than this is the glue for you.
Tearmender (The Cheap Finezip)
  • Very popular glue among many players, good value for you $
  • This is one of those hidden gems, a glue that's not made for table tennis but works great to glue on your rubbers. I like multiple layers of this but many players seem to be able to get away with just one.
  • Cleanup = easy
  • Readily available at walmart ++
DHS #15
  • Cheap
  • Seems pretty thin but after a few months (still in the bottle), it tends to clump up on the inside in a weird way. The only way i can describe this clumping is if you put a layer of glue on a blade, and then try to put another layer on before the first layer has finished trying and you will then get a stringy bulge of glue in random spots.
Tulpe's Glue
  • mixed answer's on what this one is like, more reviews needed


Edited by NoRema - 04/06/2015 at 12:27pm


Click the picture for feedback ^
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
Baal View Drop Down
Forum Moderator
Forum Moderator


Joined: 01/21/2010
Location: unknown
Status: Offline
Points: 14336
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/05/2015 at 9:36pm
DOnic blue contact can definitely splinter your blade.  Quite viscous and easy to apply -- one thin coat is all that is needed -- and gives very good playing qualities for large pored rubbers like Tenergy, but forget ever getting it off the sponge. 
Back to Top
NoRema View Drop Down
Silver Member
Silver Member
Avatar

Joined: 02/04/2015
Location: On The Table
Status: Offline
Points: 564
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NoRema Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/05/2015 at 9:43pm
Originally posted by Baal Baal wrote:

DOnic blue contact can definitely splinter your blade.  Quite viscous and easy to apply -- one thin coat is all that is needed -- and gives very good playing qualities for large pored rubbers like Tenergy, but forget ever getting it off the sponge. 

Agreed, but it's still my favorite glue ;) I only use it though on my main blades/rubbers that i know i won't be reselling. I love the feeling of it. I plan to use it when i get my MX-S in the mail. :)

Also thank you for reminding me that it's great for large pored rubbers, Just added that to its description 


Edited by NoRema - 04/05/2015 at 9:47pm


Click the picture for feedback ^
Back to Top
asifgunz View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: 09/15/2013
Location: Queens NY
Status: Offline
Points: 1448
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote asifgunz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/05/2015 at 9:58pm
tearmender:

cheap. readily available. super easy cleanup. Great bond. Love that clicking sound. My friend preferred 18 dollar aurora on my zxi, more than his new tenergy.  Voc free.

also, easy to remove from sponge. lost skin from tip of my index finger removing lkt waterbased glue. I believe free chack is in the same region. If you got $, go for fine zip. Otherwise Tearmender does it well.


Edited by asifgunz - 04/05/2015 at 9:59pm


"I do not have any idols. I am my own idol." - Zhang Jike

Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=71761&PN=1#905629
Back to Top
skip3119 View Drop Down
Premier Member
Premier Member


Joined: 02/24/2006
Location: somewhere
Status: Offline
Points: 8257
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skip3119 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/05/2015 at 10:32pm
I switched from rubber cement (Elmer) to tearmender a few years ago, and I have never looked back.

skip3119
Back to Top
RyKnocks View Drop Down
Super Member
Super Member
Avatar

Joined: 05/15/2011
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Status: Offline
Points: 231
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RyKnocks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/05/2015 at 11:00pm
Wow, what a great thread. Can an administrator sticky this?

Anyway, I'm currently using Elmers Rubber Cement but I think I'll give Tearmender a try with my next set of rubbers.

BTY Viscaria: FH Black Battle II / BH Red 802-40 2.0mm

Galaxy W-6: FH: FH/BH Yinhe Big Dipper 38*
Back to Top
NextLevel View Drop Down
Forum Moderator
Forum Moderator
Avatar

Joined: 12/15/2011
Location: Somewhere Good
Status: Offline
Points: 14842
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NextLevel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/05/2015 at 11:28pm
Donic Varioclean is still my personal favorite.  Have never looked elsewhere - don't know how it compares to other stuff because I don't use other stuff.  It can splinter bad blades but I can't remember any major problems with it.
I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon
FH/BH: H3P 41D.
Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train...
Back to Top
asifgunz View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: 09/15/2013
Location: Queens NY
Status: Offline
Points: 1448
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote asifgunz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 12:15am
Elmers has voc right?


"I do not have any idols. I am my own idol." - Zhang Jike

Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=71761&PN=1#905629
Back to Top
NoRema View Drop Down
Silver Member
Silver Member
Avatar

Joined: 02/04/2015
Location: On The Table
Status: Offline
Points: 564
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NoRema Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 12:16am
Originally posted by asifgunz asifgunz wrote:

Elmers has voc right?
 yea but i don't consider it VOC. wait 2 days and it can't be detected


Click the picture for feedback ^
Back to Top
popperlocker View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member


Joined: 03/24/2008
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 1753
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote popperlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 2:09am
Originally posted by NoRema NoRema wrote:

Originally posted by asifgunz asifgunz wrote:

Elmers has voc right?
 yea but i don't consider it VOC. wait 2 days and it can't be detected
I consider it voc, that stuff F**ks up my Tenergy. Imo, kills half the rubber life, and makes the rubber inconsistent. Every week it's like a different rubber.
Back to Top
asifgunz View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: 09/15/2013
Location: Queens NY
Status: Offline
Points: 1448
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote asifgunz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 2:19am
Thing with tearmender is that i can start gluing process half an hour before game, and be good to go in twenty minutes.


"I do not have any idols. I am my own idol." - Zhang Jike

Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=71761&PN=1#905629
Back to Top
kakapo View Drop Down
Premier Member
Premier Member
Avatar

Joined: 02/24/2013
Location: Mordor
Status: Offline
Points: 3430
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kakapo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 4:44am
Dianchi: very liquid, needs 2 layers, very good and easy to remove from sponge and blade. This glue really stinks.
I like Dianchi booster but prefer nittaku fine zip for glueing.

Soulspin connect: also very liquid, takes a long time to dry if you don't use hairdryer. Not easy to remove from sponges usually used for short on long pimples rubbers. For those, you will have to be very very patient....
Def play grey grip 94gr, Venus 2 blue 2,2, Neubauer KO extreme 1,3mm
Back to Top
antipatrul View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 07/03/2013
Location: Bulgaria
Status: Offline
Points: 52
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote antipatrul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 5:16am
DHS №15 is the best glue for me and my club.  Really easy to apply and to remove. It`s cheap and really strong, too

Edited by antipatrul - 04/06/2015 at 5:16am
Back to Top
alex5908 View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 12/06/2009
Location: Canada
Status: Offline
Points: 85
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alex5908 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 7:30am
Tulpe is a good water based glue. 300 ml for $18.66 at http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Shipping-Tulpe-Tension-Table-Tennis-Ping-Pong-Glue-300ml/202364_1848553237.html. No need to remove. I mean I don't see any traces of the glue. Just re-apply glue when re-gluing.


Edited by alex5908 - 04/06/2015 at 10:41am
Back to Top
haggisv View Drop Down
Forum Moderator
Forum Moderator
Avatar
Dark Knight

Joined: 06/28/2005
Location: Australia
Status: Offline
Points: 5110
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote haggisv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 7:46am
DHS #15 I found to be very inconsistant. Had some really good one early on, and then some bad ones full of little solid bits a few months later. I have not gone back since.
I've tried the Tulpe one several years ago too. Strongest glue I even tried, was near impossible to removed from the blade without pulling off the fibres.
I use Donic Vario for almost all bats I glue, as it's really easy to use, and provides a string enough bond to hold, but not too strong so it's still easy to remove. Nittaku Finezip is really good too, but expensive.
Smart; VS>401, Dtecs OX
Tenergy Alternatives | My TT Articles
Back to Top
alex5908 View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 12/06/2009
Location: Canada
Status: Offline
Points: 85
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alex5908 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 7:59am
Originally posted by haggisv haggisv wrote:


I've tried the Tulpe one several years ago too. Strongest glue I even tried, was near impossible to removed from the blade without pulling off the fibres.

I am not quite sure but it seems like the technology for production of  Tulpe glue has changed since that time. It's not strong at all. Rubbers can be easily removed from a blade but stay on firm. I've already used up one bottle and bought the second. I apply two layers of glue. 5 min interval between the layers. Definitely no chips  on a blade after removing rubbers. I  use  lacquer on my blades, though.


Edited by alex5908 - 04/06/2015 at 8:03am
Back to Top
NoRema View Drop Down
Silver Member
Silver Member
Avatar

Joined: 02/04/2015
Location: On The Table
Status: Offline
Points: 564
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NoRema Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 9:08am
Originally posted by NextLevel NextLevel wrote:

Donic Varioclean is still my personal favorite.  Have never looked elsewhere - don't know how it compares to other stuff because I don't use other stuff.  It can splinter bad blades but I can't remember any major problems with it.

How thick is it? Do you need multiple layers of glue? How easy is it to remove from your sponge?


Click the picture for feedback ^
Back to Top
NoRema View Drop Down
Silver Member
Silver Member
Avatar

Joined: 02/04/2015
Location: On The Table
Status: Offline
Points: 564
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NoRema Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 9:21am
Originally posted by haggisv haggisv wrote:

DHS #15 I found to be very inconsistant. Had some really good one early on, and then some bad ones full of little solid bits a few months later. I have not gone back since.
I've tried the Tulpe one several years ago too. Strongest glue I even tried, was near impossible to removed from the blade without pulling off the fibres.
I use Donic Vario for almost all bats I glue, as it's really easy to use, and provides a string enough bond to hold, but not too strong so it's still easy to remove. Nittaku Finezip is really good too, but expensive.

I've experienced this with dhs#15, completely forgot about this glue though. It holds the rubber on tight and is easy to remove, but those little "floaters" are quite discerning. Thanks for the vario information, i've never used it. 


Click the picture for feedback ^
Back to Top
haggisv View Drop Down
Forum Moderator
Forum Moderator
Avatar
Dark Knight

Joined: 06/28/2005
Location: Australia
Status: Offline
Points: 5110
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote haggisv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:04am
Originally posted by alex5908 alex5908 wrote:

Originally posted by haggisv haggisv wrote:


I've tried the Tulpe one several years ago too. Strongest glue I even tried, was near impossible to removed from the blade without pulling off the fibres.

I am not quite sure but it seems like the technology for production of  Tulpe glue has changed since that time. It's not strong at all. Rubbers can be easily removed from a blade but stay on firm. I've already used up one bottle and bought the second. I apply two layers of glue. 5 min interval between the layers. Definitely no chips  on a blade after removing rubbers. I  use  lacquer on my blades, though.

Someone on OOAK had exactly the same problem, and this was quite recently, he said "Also if you can find it Kokutaku Tulpe voc free glue has a really strong bond and also stays on the blade,I used this myself the bond was too strong really without watering it down as the ox rubbers can rip when removing".
It might simply be quality control, some batches much strreonger than others.
This is the glue I'm referring to:


Smart; VS>401, Dtecs OX
Tenergy Alternatives | My TT Articles
Back to Top
NextLevel View Drop Down
Forum Moderator
Forum Moderator
Avatar

Joined: 12/15/2011
Location: Somewhere Good
Status: Offline
Points: 14842
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NextLevel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:16am
Originally posted by NoRema NoRema wrote:

Originally posted by NextLevel NextLevel wrote:

Donic Varioclean is still my personal favorite.  Have never looked elsewhere - don't know how it compares to other stuff because I don't use other stuff.  It can splinter bad blades but I can't remember any major problems with it.

How thick is it? Do you need multiple layers of glue? How easy is it to remove from your sponge?

It's likely similar in some ways to Blue Contact though I have never used that before and I am just speculating.  I would describe it best as thin rubber cement without the VOCs - it has ammonia in it to make it pretty smooth, and the stickiness tends to transfer with the sheet and the sponge - I have been able to transfer rubbers across blades without significant re-gluing.  Never had any blade damaged except one extremely old one that was likely rotting already or blades with chips and cracks already - I don't seal or varnish. 

Right now, I use very thin layers and can get the job done with one thin layer on sponge and blade - there was a time I used multiple layers, but I no longer see the value and prefer a consistent one-time job, especially since I now have a rubber I trust.  But you can use multiple layers if you want.  With multiple layers, it is much easier to peel off, though not extremely easy.  But since I don't move rubbers around anymore, I don't think about that seriously.  If I do move a rubber, I would simply add a thin layer to the blade and not the sponge - it is thin enough that glue buildup is not significant unless you want it to be.
I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon
FH/BH: H3P 41D.
Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train...
Back to Top
chroot View Drop Down
Silver Member
Silver Member
Avatar

Joined: 07/17/2013
Location: US
Status: Offline
Points: 949
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chroot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:42am
Originally posted by NextLevel NextLevel wrote:

Originally posted by NoRema NoRema wrote:

Originally posted by NextLevel NextLevel wrote:

Donic Varioclean is still my personal favorite.  Have never looked elsewhere - don't know how it compares to other stuff because I don't use other stuff.  It can splinter bad blades but I can't remember any major problems with it.

How thick is it? Do you need multiple layers of glue? How easy is it to remove from your sponge?

It's likely similar in some ways to Blue Contact though I have never used that before and I am just speculating.  I would describe it best as thin rubber cement without the VOCs - it has ammonia in it to make it pretty smooth, and the stickiness tends to transfer with the sheet and the sponge - I have been able to transfer rubbers across blades without significant re-gluing.  Never had any blade damaged except one extremely old one that was likely rotting already or blades with chips and cracks already - I don't seal or varnish. 

Right now, I use very thin layers and can get the job done with one thin layer on sponge and blade - there was a time I used multiple layers, but I no longer see the value and prefer a consistent one-time job, especially since I now have a rubber I trust.  But you can use multiple layers if you want.  With multiple layers, it is much easier to peel off, though not extremely easy.  But since I don't move rubbers around anymore, I don't think about that seriously.  If I do move a rubber, I would simply add a thin layer to the blade and not the sponge - it is thin enough that glue buildup is not significant unless you want it to be.


I also had good experience with Donic Varioclean. I used to have some stiga blades with nct layer. Donic Varioclean is the only one which can glue the rubber firmly on the blades.  One thin lay on the blade and one on the rubber, wait for about 10-15 minutes before putting the rubber on the blade. 
BTY Viscaria 90g
DHS Hurricane 3 NEO, 39/2.1
BTY Tenergy 05 1.9

My Feedbacks
Back to Top
alex5908 View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 12/06/2009
Location: Canada
Status: Offline
Points: 85
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alex5908 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:45am
Originally posted by haggisv haggisv wrote:


This is the glue I'm referring to:



Mine is like this
 


Edited by alex5908 - 04/06/2015 at 10:47am
Back to Top
chroot View Drop Down
Silver Member
Silver Member
Avatar

Joined: 07/17/2013
Location: US
Status: Offline
Points: 949
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chroot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:46am
currently using rubber cement on Chinese rubbers and tear mender on tensors.

rubber cement can soften the Chinese rubber (hurricane 3) a little bit. tear mender is easy to use and very easy to remove from both rubber and blade. 
BTY Viscaria 90g
DHS Hurricane 3 NEO, 39/2.1
BTY Tenergy 05 1.9

My Feedbacks
Back to Top
alex5908 View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 12/06/2009
Location: Canada
Status: Offline
Points: 85
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alex5908 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:49am
Originally posted by chroot chroot wrote:

currently using ... tear mender on tensors.

Where do you buy it and how much is it?
Back to Top
chroot View Drop Down
Silver Member
Silver Member
Avatar

Joined: 07/17/2013
Location: US
Status: Offline
Points: 949
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chroot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:56am
Originally posted by alex5908 alex5908 wrote:

Originally posted by chroot chroot wrote:

currently using ... tear mender on tensors.

Where do you buy it and how much is it?


you can buy them from walmart.com. very cheap.
BTY Viscaria 90g
DHS Hurricane 3 NEO, 39/2.1
BTY Tenergy 05 1.9

My Feedbacks
Back to Top
skip3119 View Drop Down
Premier Member
Premier Member


Joined: 02/24/2006
Location: somewhere
Status: Offline
Points: 8257
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skip3119 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 12:24pm
Originally posted by chroot chroot wrote:

[QUOTE=alex5908][QUOTE=chroot]
you can buy them from walmart.com. very cheap.
======================================
It will last you a long long time.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Tear-Mender-Fabric-Leather-Adhesive-6-oz/17338063
skip3119
Back to Top
yogi_bear View Drop Down
Forum Moderator
Forum Moderator
Avatar

Joined: 11/25/2004
Location: Philippines
Status: Offline
Points: 7219
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yogi_bear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 12:26pm
Revolution no. 3 glue high viscosity. The best wbg!
Independent online TT Product reviewer of XIOM, STIGA, JOOLA, SANWEI, GEWO, AIR, ITC, APEX, YASAKA and ABROS

ITTF Level 1 Coaching Course Conductor, ITTF Level 1 Coach
Back to Top
NoRema View Drop Down
Silver Member
Silver Member
Avatar

Joined: 02/04/2015
Location: On The Table
Status: Offline
Points: 564
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NoRema Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2015 at 12:39pm
Originally posted by yogi_bear yogi_bear wrote:

Revolution no. 3 glue high viscosity. The best wbg!

that's what i've been using lately the most. but when i glue with it, i end up cutting my rubber afterwards and then the edges of the rubber start coming up, making me have to reglue it.


Click the picture for feedback ^
Back to Top
unprepared View Drop Down
Beginner
Beginner
Avatar

Joined: 02/22/2015
Location: Somewhere
Status: Offline
Points: 12
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unprepared Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/07/2015 at 8:12pm
Butterfly Free Chack II: Very easy removal. I don't remember how strong the bond is.


Edited by unprepared - 04/07/2015 at 8:12pm
BTY Freitas ALC, Xiom Vega Europe DF
Back to Top
schen View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: 03/26/2013
Location: San Diego, CA
Status: Offline
Points: 1244
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote schen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/07/2015 at 8:54pm
My thoughts on glues I've used:
DHS #15
I must disagree with some of the ordering of bond strength in this list.  DHS #15 is stronger than Tearmender and far stronger than RC in my experience.  I also find the #15 relatively thick for a runny glue to the point where I must water it down a bit, but even then it is still thicker than TM.  The trick with this glue to avoid clumping is not to use the crap square sponges that are typically provided with the bottle - use cosmetic wedges instead.  One layer to the blade and one on the sponge is good enough if undiluted.  Removes easily and even sometimes has a tendency to adhere to the blade instead of the sponge when peeling rubbers off.  This is my current favorite by a wide margin.

Nittaku Finezip
Thick and pasty type of glue that comes in a tube.  Takes a little longer to dry than most glues because it is so thick, but is also noticeably more elastic than all the others too and removes very easily one piece.  It will not necessarily adhere to sealed blades any better than other water based glues though.  A problem I experienced with this glue is that it will solidify in the tube if stored in a relatively cold climate (NYC apartment in the winter for example).  Another problem is that because it is so thick, you must use as thin of layers as possible especially if you use max rubbers or boost, otherwise your racket will fail the thickness test at major tournaments.

Stiga Attach Power
Rebranded Nittaku Finezip, may be cheaper in some countries.  I believe it is supposed to be the exact same glue, but I've found some tubes that had thicker glue than finezip.  This is the one Xu Xin was technically using in his Stiga video, look closely - it wasn't finezip.

Tearmender
I do not use TM anymore for actually gluing rubbers to rackets - rather I keep a tube of it handy to remove other glues and RC that don't come off easily.  Two layers on the sponge on top of the existing glue build up will let you peel it all off in one go - very handy.  Bond is not strong enough to handle boosted rubbers though without multiple layers.  Easy to peel after 2-3 layers, best spread with a foam brush.

Paddle Palace Glue
Surprisingly not bad - kind of like a thinner version of TM but with a stronger bond.  I remember when this first came out it was very weak, but the latest bottles I've used in a pinch I was pretty impressed by.  However this glue has clumping issues and when dry it seems to shrink/shrivel a bit as well as turn brown(?)... Not sure why.  Removes pretty easily with 3+ layers though, which is nice.

Vario Clean
This stuff was weird.  I borrowed a bottle from someone to quickly glue a new sheet of tenergy at a tournament since I didn't think to bring my own glue.  The stuff "dried" and stuck pretty strongly, but what was odd is that it didn't solidify like any other wbg.  Instead, it became a sticky film similar to RC that wasn't completely dry, but it stayed that way.  The rubber shrunk on my blade over time from rolling it on in the first place because the adhesive didn't solidify into a latex layer like other glues, and when I took it off it was a mess.  There was no way to really peel the glue off and I had to sand my blade to get rid of the residue.  You could even stick the rubber to another blade without glue because the buildup was so sticky.  I feel like this would be only thing that could work with sealed blades because it behaves like VOC glue without the VOC.

Stiga Optimizer Glue
Complete garbage.  Smells terrible, bond is weak, watery, clumps easily, and is a pain to remove.  The brush included in the cap was extremely coarse and makes absolutely no sense for applying glue.
Feedback | FOR SALE - updated Mar 19

Dynasty / H3 / H3
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  123 4>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.01
Copyright ©2001-2018 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.672 seconds.

Become a Fan on Facebook Follow us on Twitter Web Wiz News
Forum Home | Go to the Forums | Forum Help | Disclaimer

MyTableTennis.NET is the trading name of Alex Table Tennis Ltd.

Copyright ©2003-2024 Alex Table Tennis Ltd. All rights reserved.