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Different Glues: Pro's and Cons |
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NoRema
Silver Member Joined: 02/04/2015 Location: On The Table Status: Offline Points: 564 |
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Posted: 04/05/2015 at 9:29pm |
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Comments to expand my list would be greatly appreciated :)
Strongest Bond
Revolution 3:
Butterfly Free Chack
Donic Vario Clean
Donic Blue Contact
Elmer's Rubber Cement
Haifu Blue Whale WBG
Nittaku Finezip (more info please)
Tearmender (The Cheap Finezip)
DHS #15
Tulpe's Glue
Edited by NoRema - 04/06/2015 at 12:27pm |
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Baal
Forum Moderator Joined: 01/21/2010 Location: unknown Status: Offline Points: 14336 |
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DOnic blue contact can definitely splinter your blade. Quite viscous and easy to apply -- one thin coat is all that is needed -- and gives very good playing qualities for large pored rubbers like Tenergy, but forget ever getting it off the sponge.
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NoRema
Silver Member Joined: 02/04/2015 Location: On The Table Status: Offline Points: 564 |
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Agreed, but it's still my favorite glue ;) I only use it though on my main blades/rubbers that i know i won't be reselling. I love the feeling of it. I plan to use it when i get my MX-S in the mail. :) Also thank you for reminding me that it's great for large pored rubbers, Just added that to its description
Edited by NoRema - 04/05/2015 at 9:47pm |
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asifgunz
Gold Member Joined: 09/15/2013 Location: Queens NY Status: Offline Points: 1448 |
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tearmender:
cheap. readily available. super easy cleanup. Great bond. Love that clicking sound. My friend preferred 18 dollar aurora on my zxi, more than his new tenergy. Voc free. also, easy to remove from sponge. lost skin from tip of my index finger removing lkt waterbased glue. I believe free chack is in the same region. If you got $, go for fine zip. Otherwise Tearmender does it well. Edited by asifgunz - 04/05/2015 at 9:59pm |
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"I do not have any idols. I am my own idol." - Zhang Jike Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=71761&PN=1#905629 |
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skip3119
Premier Member Joined: 02/24/2006 Location: somewhere Status: Offline Points: 8257 |
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I switched from rubber cement (Elmer) to tearmender a few years ago, and I have never looked back.
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skip3119
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RyKnocks
Super Member Joined: 05/15/2011 Location: Elk Grove, CA Status: Offline Points: 231 |
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Wow, what a great thread. Can an administrator sticky this?
Anyway, I'm currently using Elmers Rubber Cement but I think I'll give Tearmender a try with my next set of rubbers. |
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BTY Viscaria: FH Black Battle II / BH Red 802-40 2.0mm
Galaxy W-6: FH: FH/BH Yinhe Big Dipper 38* |
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NextLevel
Forum Moderator Joined: 12/15/2011 Location: Somewhere Good Status: Offline Points: 14842 |
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Donic Varioclean is still my personal favorite. Have never looked elsewhere - don't know how it compares to other stuff because I don't use other stuff. It can splinter bad blades but I can't remember any major problems with it.
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I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
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asifgunz
Gold Member Joined: 09/15/2013 Location: Queens NY Status: Offline Points: 1448 |
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Elmers has voc right?
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"I do not have any idols. I am my own idol." - Zhang Jike Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=71761&PN=1#905629 |
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NoRema
Silver Member Joined: 02/04/2015 Location: On The Table Status: Offline Points: 564 |
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popperlocker
Gold Member Joined: 03/24/2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1753 |
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I consider it voc, that stuff F**ks up my Tenergy. Imo, kills half the rubber life, and makes the rubber inconsistent. Every week it's like a different rubber.
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asifgunz
Gold Member Joined: 09/15/2013 Location: Queens NY Status: Offline Points: 1448 |
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Thing with tearmender is that i can start gluing process half an hour before game, and be good to go in twenty minutes.
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"I do not have any idols. I am my own idol." - Zhang Jike Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=71761&PN=1#905629 |
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kakapo
Premier Member Joined: 02/24/2013 Location: Mordor Status: Offline Points: 3430 |
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Dianchi: very liquid, needs 2 layers, very good and easy to remove from sponge and blade. This glue really stinks.
I like Dianchi booster but prefer nittaku fine zip for glueing.
Soulspin connect: also very liquid, takes a long time to dry if you don't use hairdryer. Not easy to remove from sponges usually used for short on long pimples rubbers. For those, you will have to be very very patient.... |
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Def play grey grip 94gr, Venus 2 blue 2,2, Neubauer KO extreme 1,3mm
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antipatrul
Member Joined: 07/03/2013 Location: Bulgaria Status: Offline Points: 52 |
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DHS №15 is the best glue for me and my club. Really easy to apply and to remove. It`s cheap and really strong, too
Edited by antipatrul - 04/06/2015 at 5:16am |
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alex5908
Member Joined: 12/06/2009 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Tulpe is a good water based glue. 300 ml for $18.66 at http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Shipping-Tulpe-Tension-Table-Tennis-Ping-Pong-Glue-300ml/202364_1848553237.html. No need to remove. I mean I don't see any traces of the glue. Just re-apply glue when re-gluing.
Edited by alex5908 - 04/06/2015 at 10:41am |
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haggisv
Forum Moderator Dark Knight Joined: 06/28/2005 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5110 |
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DHS #15 I found to be very inconsistant. Had some really good one early on, and then some bad ones full of little solid bits a few months later. I have not gone back since.
I've tried the Tulpe one several years ago too. Strongest glue I even tried, was near impossible to removed from the blade without pulling off the fibres. I use Donic Vario for almost all bats I glue, as it's really easy to use, and provides a string enough bond to hold, but not too strong so it's still easy to remove. Nittaku Finezip is really good too, but expensive. |
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alex5908
Member Joined: 12/06/2009 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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I am not quite sure but it seems like the technology for production of Tulpe glue has changed since that time. It's not strong at all. Rubbers can be easily removed from a blade but stay on firm. I've already used up one bottle and bought the second. I apply two layers of glue. 5 min interval between the layers. Definitely no chips on a blade after removing rubbers. I use lacquer on my blades, though. Edited by alex5908 - 04/06/2015 at 8:03am |
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NoRema
Silver Member Joined: 02/04/2015 Location: On The Table Status: Offline Points: 564 |
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How thick is it? Do you need multiple layers of glue? How easy is it to remove from your sponge?
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NoRema
Silver Member Joined: 02/04/2015 Location: On The Table Status: Offline Points: 564 |
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I've experienced this with dhs#15, completely forgot about this glue though. It holds the rubber on tight and is easy to remove, but those little "floaters" are quite discerning. Thanks for the vario information, i've never used it.
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haggisv
Forum Moderator Dark Knight Joined: 06/28/2005 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5110 |
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Someone on OOAK had exactly the same problem, and this was quite recently, he said "Also if you can find it Kokutaku Tulpe voc free glue has a really strong bond and also stays on the blade,I used this myself the bond was too strong really without watering it down as the ox rubbers can rip when removing". It might simply be quality control, some batches much strreonger than others. This is the glue I'm referring to: |
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NextLevel
Forum Moderator Joined: 12/15/2011 Location: Somewhere Good Status: Offline Points: 14842 |
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It's likely similar in some ways to Blue Contact though I have never used that before and I am just speculating. I would describe it best as thin rubber cement without the VOCs - it has ammonia in it to make it pretty smooth, and the stickiness tends to transfer with the sheet and the sponge - I have been able to transfer rubbers across blades without significant re-gluing. Never had any blade damaged except one extremely old one that was likely rotting already or blades with chips and cracks already - I don't seal or varnish. Right now, I use very thin layers and can get the job done with one thin layer on sponge and blade - there was a time I used multiple layers, but I no longer see the value and prefer a consistent one-time job, especially since I now have a rubber I trust. But you can use multiple layers if you want. With multiple layers, it is much easier to peel off, though not extremely easy. But since I don't move rubbers around anymore, I don't think about that seriously. If I do move a rubber, I would simply add a thin layer to the blade and not the sponge - it is thin enough that glue buildup is not significant unless you want it to be.
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I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
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chroot
Silver Member Joined: 07/17/2013 Location: US Status: Offline Points: 949 |
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I also had good experience with Donic Varioclean. I used to have some stiga blades with nct layer. Donic Varioclean is the only one which can glue the rubber firmly on the blades. One thin lay on the blade and one on the rubber, wait for about 10-15 minutes before putting the rubber on the blade. |
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alex5908
Member Joined: 12/06/2009 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Mine is like this Edited by alex5908 - 04/06/2015 at 10:47am |
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chroot
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currently using rubber cement on Chinese rubbers and tear mender on tensors.
rubber cement can soften the Chinese rubber (hurricane 3) a little bit. tear mender is easy to use and very easy to remove from both rubber and blade. |
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alex5908
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Where do you buy it and how much is it? |
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chroot
Silver Member Joined: 07/17/2013 Location: US Status: Offline Points: 949 |
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you can buy them from walmart.com. very cheap. |
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skip3119
Premier Member Joined: 02/24/2006 Location: somewhere Status: Offline Points: 8257 |
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======================================
It will last you a long long time. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Tear-Mender-Fabric-Leather-Adhesive-6-oz/17338063 |
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skip3119
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yogi_bear
Forum Moderator Joined: 11/25/2004 Location: Philippines Status: Offline Points: 7219 |
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Revolution no. 3 glue high viscosity. The best wbg!
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Independent online TT Product reviewer of XIOM, STIGA, JOOLA, SANWEI, GEWO, AIR, ITC, APEX, YASAKA and ABROS
ITTF Level 1 Coaching Course Conductor, ITTF Level 1 Coach |
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NoRema
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that's what i've been using lately the most. but when i glue with it, i end up cutting my rubber afterwards and then the edges of the rubber start coming up, making me have to reglue it.
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unprepared
Beginner Joined: 02/22/2015 Location: Somewhere Status: Offline Points: 12 |
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Butterfly Free Chack II: Very easy removal. I don't remember how strong the bond is.
Edited by unprepared - 04/07/2015 at 8:12pm |
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BTY Freitas ALC, Xiom Vega Europe DF
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schen
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My thoughts on glues I've used:
DHS #15 I must disagree with some of the ordering of bond strength in this list. DHS #15 is stronger than Tearmender and far stronger than RC in my experience. I also find the #15 relatively thick for a runny glue to the point where I must water it down a bit, but even then it is still thicker than TM. The trick with this glue to avoid clumping is not to use the crap square sponges that are typically provided with the bottle - use cosmetic wedges instead. One layer to the blade and one on the sponge is good enough if undiluted. Removes easily and even sometimes has a tendency to adhere to the blade instead of the sponge when peeling rubbers off. This is my current favorite by a wide margin. Nittaku Finezip Thick and pasty type of glue that comes in a tube. Takes a little longer to dry than most glues because it is so thick, but is also noticeably more elastic than all the others too and removes very easily one piece. It will not necessarily adhere to sealed blades any better than other water based glues though. A problem I experienced with this glue is that it will solidify in the tube if stored in a relatively cold climate (NYC apartment in the winter for example). Another problem is that because it is so thick, you must use as thin of layers as possible especially if you use max rubbers or boost, otherwise your racket will fail the thickness test at major tournaments. Stiga Attach Power Rebranded Nittaku Finezip, may be cheaper in some countries. I believe it is supposed to be the exact same glue, but I've found some tubes that had thicker glue than finezip. This is the one Xu Xin was technically using in his Stiga video, look closely - it wasn't finezip. Tearmender I do not use TM anymore for actually gluing rubbers to rackets - rather I keep a tube of it handy to remove other glues and RC that don't come off easily. Two layers on the sponge on top of the existing glue build up will let you peel it all off in one go - very handy. Bond is not strong enough to handle boosted rubbers though without multiple layers. Easy to peel after 2-3 layers, best spread with a foam brush. Paddle Palace Glue Surprisingly not bad - kind of like a thinner version of TM but with a stronger bond. I remember when this first came out it was very weak, but the latest bottles I've used in a pinch I was pretty impressed by. However this glue has clumping issues and when dry it seems to shrink/shrivel a bit as well as turn brown(?)... Not sure why. Removes pretty easily with 3+ layers though, which is nice. Vario Clean This stuff was weird. I borrowed a bottle from someone to quickly glue a new sheet of tenergy at a tournament since I didn't think to bring my own glue. The stuff "dried" and stuck pretty strongly, but what was odd is that it didn't solidify like any other wbg. Instead, it became a sticky film similar to RC that wasn't completely dry, but it stayed that way. The rubber shrunk on my blade over time from rolling it on in the first place because the adhesive didn't solidify into a latex layer like other glues, and when I took it off it was a mess. There was no way to really peel the glue off and I had to sand my blade to get rid of the residue. You could even stick the rubber to another blade without glue because the buildup was so sticky. I feel like this would be only thing that could work with sealed blades because it behaves like VOC glue without the VOC. Stiga Optimizer Glue Complete garbage. Smells terrible, bond is weak, watery, clumps easily, and is a pain to remove. The brush included in the cap was extremely coarse and makes absolutely no sense for applying glue.
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