Alex Table Tennis - MyTableTennis.NET Homepage
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Does a blade need to be changed regularly?
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login
tabletennis11.com

Does a blade need to be changed regularly?

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <12
Author
bschap View Drop Down
Super Member
Super Member


Joined: 01/07/2013
Status: Offline
Points: 394
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bschap Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/16/2016 at 6:02pm
and you will continue to reseal every year or so?  
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
Baal View Drop Down
Forum Moderator
Forum Moderator


Joined: 01/21/2010
Location: unknown
Status: Offline
Points: 14336
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/16/2016 at 7:11pm
Yes
Back to Top
Ladon1997 View Drop Down
Super Member
Super Member
Avatar

Joined: 05/08/2016
Location: Lansing Square
Status: Offline
Points: 278
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ladon1997 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/16/2016 at 8:01pm
If you care about your blade, you shall examine the surface when replacing your rubber. Can you find out what reasons caused glue left on sponge and sometime glue left on blade when you peal rubber off from your racket ? This might be a good hint what're you need to seal it again.
Back to Top
penholderxxx View Drop Down
Super Member
Super Member


Joined: 09/19/2016
Location: Asia
Status: Offline
Points: 451
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote penholderxxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/16/2016 at 9:10pm
I seal all my blades;xiom katana platinum special,xiom athena ryu spec platinum,yasaka ma lin max carbon,yinhe n9,yinhe t4, darker s90 with xiom I - sure ( water based protector ) before I put on rubbers the first time and I note I do not have this splinter problem.

When sealing, two thin layers for me and the surface of the blade should not be clearly glossy; with brush marks.

I even use ordinary wood lacquer finishing for the side of the blades. I do not know if there have been changes in the characteristics in the blades. The idea is to protect the surface of the blades.

penholderxxx
Iloveplayingtabletennis
Back to Top
bschap View Drop Down
Super Member
Super Member


Joined: 01/07/2013
Status: Offline
Points: 394
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bschap Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/17/2016 at 5:27pm
The thinking being that all the rubber/glue operations gradually wear away the sealant?

Man I really don't want to have to start sealing...but I do buy expensive blades and I want maximum longevity.
Back to Top
bschap View Drop Down
Super Member
Super Member


Joined: 01/07/2013
Status: Offline
Points: 394
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bschap Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/17/2016 at 5:44pm
<<Hinoki top ply must not be protected.>>  From Revolution No 3 sealer description.  So...they rec not sealing Hinoki?  Anyone know why?
Back to Top
Baal View Drop Down
Forum Moderator
Forum Moderator


Joined: 01/21/2010
Location: unknown
Status: Offline
Points: 14336
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/17/2016 at 5:52pm
No idea.
Back to Top
bschap View Drop Down
Super Member
Super Member


Joined: 01/07/2013
Status: Offline
Points: 394
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bschap Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/17/2016 at 5:55pm
AND...have you ever felt, after sealing handle, anything weird on your hand?  Like any sort of residue whatsoever?  Or is it absolutely indistinguishable from a non-sealed handle?
Back to Top
jonyer1980 View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: 07/30/2008
Location: Spain
Status: Offline
Points: 1600
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonyer1980 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/17/2016 at 6:04pm
There's no need to seal hinoki since it isn't a porous wood
Rosewood V FL

Nittaku Fastarc G1-FH

Stiga DNA Pro-S MAX BH


Avoid any Butterfly stuff... at abusive prices. Raw power without control means nothing
Back to Top
JimT View Drop Down
Premier Member
Premier Member
Avatar

Joined: 10/26/2007
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 14602
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/17/2016 at 7:04pm
Originally posted by *_strataras_* *_strataras_* wrote:

Wood is an alive material. It hets mushy with our sweat and from a lot of regluing. Of course it needs to be changed if your level is really high. I know the guy who is the butterfly distributor here in Greece and also I know many many Greek pro players who have signed with companies such as yasaka, tibhar and butterfly. Everyone has told me that after some months (1 year more or less) the blade needs change. And this is cause they change rubbers after 2 weeks so they glue really often and also they use their blades about 6-8 hours everyday.


Vladi Samsonov has used his old Btfy Mazunov for about 15 years until it broke or smth around 2007. I think his current blade is at least 2-3 years old.

I know many dozens of players from 1800 to 2400 level - they are sticking with same blade for years.

As long as it is in good shape why change? if you sealed it, if you use thick edge tape etc, it could last you many many years.
Single Ply Hinoki Club, Founding Member

Say "no!" to expensive table tennis equipment. Please...
Back to Top
LUCKYLOOP View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: 03/27/2013
Location: Pongville USA
Status: Offline
Points: 2800
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LUCKYLOOP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/17/2016 at 7:42pm

I have played with my main blade over 20 years. It went through the regluing era. I played with it last week for 3 hours. I have never used edge tape on it.


Edited by LUCKYLOOP - 10/17/2016 at 7:43pm
Hntr Fl / 4H & BH Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0
Yinhe T-2 / 4H Xiom Sig Pro 2 2.0 BH Xiom Omega IV Elite Max
Gam DC / 4H DHS Hurricane 8 39deg 2.1 BH GD CC LP OX
HARDBAT / Hock 3 ply / Frenshp Dr Evil OX
Back to Top
anubhav1984 View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: 05/08/2009
Location: Snoqualmie, WA
Status: Offline
Points: 1214
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anubhav1984 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/17/2016 at 11:25pm
Originally posted by bschap bschap wrote:

AND...have you ever felt, after sealing handle, anything weird on your hand?  Like any sort of residue whatsoever?  Or is it absolutely indistinguishable from a non-sealed handle?
Avoid sealing the handle if you can. I have sealed the handle of my blades and they have now become slightly slippery in the hands. I am guessing I might have put too much sealant but then again I was super careful in putting it on to make sure that I put a very very thin layer of it on the handle. It doesn't seem to be leaving any residue though.
Butterfly Viscaria FL
FH - Undecided
BH - Undecided
Back to Top
anubhav1984 View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: 05/08/2009
Location: Snoqualmie, WA
Status: Offline
Points: 1214
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anubhav1984 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/17/2016 at 11:29pm
Originally posted by jonyer1980 jonyer1980 wrote:

There's no need to seal hinoki since it isn't a porous wood
I have had hinoki wood (not very expensive ones though) splinter very badly. I owned a Yinhe T2 and it has some sort of hinoki top ply and it just got ripped off very very badly by LKT water based glue. It might actually be a good idea to seal hinoki.
I have also had similar problem with the Nexy Hannibal that I used to own. Even Hannibal splintered a little when I took off rubbers glued with Haifu WBG. 
Butterfly Viscaria FL
FH - Undecided
BH - Undecided
Back to Top
Baal View Drop Down
Forum Moderator
Forum Moderator


Joined: 01/21/2010
Location: unknown
Status: Offline
Points: 14336
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/18/2016 at 5:47am
Originally posted by LUCKYLOOP LUCKYLOOP wrote:


I have played with my main blade over 20 years. It went through the regluing era. I played with it last week for 3 hours. I have never used edge tape on it.


Some blades are soft. Example, many Btfly ALC blades will look like your dog chewewd them if you don't use edge tape.
Back to Top
Baal View Drop Down
Forum Moderator
Forum Moderator


Joined: 01/21/2010
Location: unknown
Status: Offline
Points: 14336
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/18/2016 at 5:49am
Originally posted by bschap bschap wrote:

AND...have you ever felt, after sealing handle, anything weird on your hand?  Like any sort of residue whatsoever?  Or is it absolutely indistinguishable from a non-sealed handle?


Not a problem for me.
Back to Top
jonyer1980 View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: 07/30/2008
Location: Spain
Status: Offline
Points: 1600
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonyer1980 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/18/2016 at 9:27am
Originally posted by anubhav1984 anubhav1984 wrote:

Originally posted by jonyer1980 jonyer1980 wrote:

There's no need to seal hinoki since it isn't a porous wood

I have had hinoki wood (not very expensive ones though) splinter very badly. I owned a Yinhe T2 and it has some sort of hinoki top ply and it just got ripped off very very badly by LKT water based glue. It might actually be a good idea to seal hinoki.
I have also had similar problem with the Nexy Hannibal that I used to own. Even Hannibal splintered a little when I took off rubbers glued with Haifu WBG. 


I also had 5 jonyer Hinoki at the speed glue Era and just only one of them had splinters issues. I keep the others in great condition after a few years of use& reglue but never felt the need of seal them. Same thing happened with Primorac Carbon o Darker Speed 90. However acoustic is highly recommended to seal, it's not a matter of quality but also a type of wood/veneers

Edited by jonyer1980 - 10/18/2016 at 9:29am
Rosewood V FL

Nittaku Fastarc G1-FH

Stiga DNA Pro-S MAX BH


Avoid any Butterfly stuff... at abusive prices. Raw power without control means nothing
Back to Top
suds79 View Drop Down
Silver Member
Silver Member
Avatar

Joined: 08/20/2012
Location: USA
Status: Offline
Points: 878
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote suds79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/18/2016 at 1:36pm
Consider me skeptical on the thought of regularly changing blades.

For a top pro who plays 5 days a week 8 hours a day like a job and regularly gets sent product to replace, sure. I guess. I mean where you're at level where everybody is so good and a 1-2% difference can give you an edge, you take it. 

But for the 99.9% of everybody else here who isn't a pro is it worth wrecking your muscle memory & feel you've developed for a blade over years just to get a new one? I suppose be my guess but I'm imagining the difference would be negligible at best.

To the OP, i'd just stick with your equipment. My training partner is better & more consistent than I am because he's been playing with the exact same setup for the last 3+ years while I've switch equipment far more often. Consistency is key.


Edited by suds79 - 10/21/2016 at 10:16am
Back to Top
wturber View Drop Down
Premier Member
Premier Member
Avatar

Joined: 10/28/2008
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 3899
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wturber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/19/2016 at 2:02pm
Originally posted by bschap bschap wrote:

AND...have you ever felt, after sealing handle, anything weird on your hand?  Like any sort of residue whatsoever?  Or is it absolutely indistinguishable from a non-sealed handle?

In the past I haven't sealed my handles.  But on my new Gambler Zebra Classic, I chose to do so for aesthetics.  I use MinWax Wipe-on Poly (urethane) finish (clear satin) for my sealing and for sealing/finishing this handle.  The handle now feels just like natural wood to me.  Not sticky.  No residue. 

I apply thin coats using a soft cloth (old sock etc.).  You just need to apply a couple or three thin coats so that the finish penetrates into the wood surface, not so that it builds up a thickness on the surface. When done this way, the wood looks and feels pretty much just like it did before sealing, except now it has a slightly yellow color cast and darker woods are a bit darker/richer in tone.  Also, water will bead up on the surface and not tend to soak in, but I don't know that two or three thin coats makes it actually water proof.  I think just water resistant.


Edited by wturber - 10/19/2016 at 2:03pm
Jay Turberville
www.jayandwanda.com
Hardbat: Nittaku Resist w/ Dr. Evil or Friendship 802-40 OX
Back to Top
aeoliah View Drop Down
Premier Member
Premier Member


Joined: 11/18/2005
Location: Indonesia
Status: Offline
Points: 3215
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aeoliah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/21/2016 at 2:50am
It is fortunate that you can get the Minwax PU; I cannot find it in my country anymore. Not even in Singapore.
Member of the Single Ply Hinoki Club
Viscaria Super ALC C-Pen
Rasanter C48




Back to Top
Avallo View Drop Down
Super Member
Super Member
Avatar

Joined: 02/12/2014
Location: Indonesia
Status: Offline
Points: 481
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Avallo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/21/2016 at 4:03am
actually
it's depended to the player...
do not forget... the highest level player need a "STANDARD" blade in their standard

i'm agree that some blades can be better overtime but.. it is also not match for their standard

for example indonesian player... they will change the blade about 3 months... and i heard that CNT will change the blade about 1 per month... but i can't prove it
an indonesian tennis table maniac

MY FEEDBACK

Back to Top
Ladon1997 View Drop Down
Super Member
Super Member
Avatar

Joined: 05/08/2016
Location: Lansing Square
Status: Offline
Points: 278
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ladon1997 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/21/2016 at 9:39am
Is Urethane VOC ?
Back to Top
bard romance View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member


Joined: 02/18/2016
Location: FL
Status: Offline
Points: 1185
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote bard romance Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/21/2016 at 10:24am
Originally posted by suds79 suds79 wrote:

Consider me skeptical on the thought of regularly changing blades.

For a top pro who plays 5 days a week 8 hours a day like a job and regularly gets sent product to replace, sure. I guess. I mean where you're at level where everybody is so good and a 1-2% difference can give you an edge, you take it. 

But for the 99.9% of everybody else here who isn't a pro is it worth wrecking your muscle memory & feel you've developed for a blade over years just to get a new one? I suppose be my guess but I'm imagining the difference would be negligible at best.

To the OP, i'd just stick with your equipment. My training partner is better & more consistent than I am because he's been playing with the exact same setup for the last 3+ years while I've switch equipment far more often. Consistency is key.

A friend told me about two high level players, one of which swears that blades go dead and need replacement and the other who swears by using the same one for years on end for consistency and natural feel. As always, everyone will have a different opinion and in the end it doesn't matter. If you're holding a capable racket, the rest lies in your arm/brain :)
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <12
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.01
Copyright ©2001-2018 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.156 seconds.

Become a Fan on Facebook Follow us on Twitter Web Wiz News
Forum Home | Go to the Forums | Forum Help | Disclaimer

MyTableTennis.NET is the trading name of Alex Table Tennis Ltd.

Copyright ©2003-2024 Alex Table Tennis Ltd. All rights reserved.