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Important tip when boosting H3 Neo

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SmackDAT View Drop Down
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    Posted: 06/25/2017 at 10:11pm
OK, so I had what I thought was a permanent dome for the past week.

All I did (for H3 Neo specifically), is remove the protective foil and bend the rubber against the dome.

The protective foil I believe caused the difficulty in resolving the dome (i.e. the dome should have weakened but the size of the foil meant that the rubber remained in a domed state). 5 minutes and it's virtually domeless.

Silly mistake on my part, but it is what it is! I'll learn and continue boosting tf out of H3 Neo :)
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Chairman Meow View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chairman Meow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/25/2017 at 11:57pm
Is there any benefit to boosting H3 neo vs boosting H3 non-neo? I always thought it was just extra expense and hassle to buy the more expensive neo and remove the factory glue layer before boosting, but most people I know boost H3 neo instead of the regular version. Is there a reason for this?
-1 ply Cypress 11.5mm "The Castigator"
-H3 Prov. Blue Sponge 2.2mm 41 deg.
-H3 Prov. Orange Sponge 2.1mm 37 deg
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zeio View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zeio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/26/2017 at 12:16am
Unless we're talking about the provincial and up, there is no point to boosting either the H3 or H3 Neo. Those bottles of yellow substance are not cheap, man.
Viscaria FL - 91g
+ Neo H3 2.15 Blk - 44.5g(55.3g uncut bare)
+ Hexer HD 2.1 Red - 49.3g(68.5g 〃 〃)
= 184.8g
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shifu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/26/2017 at 2:50am
No point? What are you talking about? It clearly changes its behavior
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zeio View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zeio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/26/2017 at 6:27am
You're talking about boosting a rubber $15 a piece with an agent $15 a bottle(the cheapest one). If anyone is that serious about squeezing every ounce of performance out of a piece of rubber with that much extra, they need to reevaluate whether they're doing the right thing.
Viscaria FL - 91g
+ Neo H3 2.15 Blk - 44.5g(55.3g uncut bare)
+ Hexer HD 2.1 Red - 49.3g(68.5g 〃 〃)
= 184.8g
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Shifu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/26/2017 at 7:19am
You do realize that the bottle is enough for several rubbers? And it's not just changing the rubber a bit. It makes a 15 EUR rubber to at least an ESN top quality rubber or provincial 35 euro rubber to a Tenergy performance wise.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chairman Meow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/26/2017 at 10:12am
Originally posted by zeio zeio wrote:

Unless we're talking about the provincial and up, there is no point to boosting either the H3 or H3 Neo. Those bottles of yellow substance are not cheap, man.

I don't boost, and am not about to start. I'm just curious as to why some people choose to buy the more expensive H3 neo, remove the glue layer/factory tuning, and then boost; as opposed to boosting the cheaper H3.
-1 ply Cypress 11.5mm "The Castigator"
-H3 Prov. Blue Sponge 2.2mm 41 deg.
-H3 Prov. Orange Sponge 2.1mm 37 deg
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ashishsharmaait View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ashishsharmaait Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/26/2017 at 11:40am
Originally posted by Chairman Meow Chairman Meow wrote:

Is there any benefit to boosting H3 neo vs boosting H3 non-neo? I always thought it was just extra expense and hassle to buy the more expensive neo and remove the factory glue layer before boosting, but most people I know boost H3 neo instead of the regular version. Is there a reason for this?

The difference between Neo and Non Neo after boosting is not very much. Neo has a little harder topsheet, so the speed is 5% higher.
I can play with either without any difficulty. The difference between non boosted Neo and H3 is however a lot.
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zeio View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zeio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/26/2017 at 3:09pm
Originally posted by Chairman Meow Chairman Meow wrote:

Originally posted by zeio zeio wrote:

Unless we're talking about the provincial and up, there is no point to boosting either the H3 or H3 Neo. Those bottles of yellow substance are not cheap, man.


I don't boost, and am not about to start. I'm just curious as to why some people choose to buy the more expensive H3 neo, remove the glue layer/factory tuning, and then boost; as opposed to boosting the cheaper H3.

Some people feel the H3 Neo is more resistant to bubbling than the H3.

Either way, the general consensus is that layer on H3 Neo is to be left there, apply a thin layer of glue on it, play until the effect is gone after a month and then boost.
Viscaria FL - 91g
+ Neo H3 2.15 Blk - 44.5g(55.3g uncut bare)
+ Hexer HD 2.1 Red - 49.3g(68.5g 〃 〃)
= 184.8g
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zeio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/26/2017 at 3:42pm
Originally posted by Fabian1890 Fabian1890 wrote:

You do realize that the bottle is enough for several rubbers? And it's not just changing the rubber a bit. It makes a 15 EUR rubber to at least an ESN top quality rubber or provincial 35 euro rubber to a Tenergy performance wise.

A 100ml bottle can last you 10 applications every other month. But no one serious about boosting would and should spend all that time and money for a $15 rubber.
Viscaria FL - 91g
+ Neo H3 2.15 Blk - 44.5g(55.3g uncut bare)
+ Hexer HD 2.1 Red - 49.3g(68.5g 〃 〃)
= 184.8g
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote simon_xuan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/26/2017 at 10:24pm
I also use Seamoon to boost Chinese rubbers, from 40 degree to soften to 39 or lower. Using sparingly, a neo TG3 or H3 is still very decent forehand choice than my ESN or T05 alternatives. Usually 6 months later, it has a reverse dome that I can no longer tune or squeeze any juice of it, which is basically dead. If not tuned, the sponge will be as hard as a rock and not playable. Yes, I also peel the plastic cover off and reapply to the top sheet to avoid dust during rubber cut. It is just personal experience. I heard H3 provincial blue sponge is very easy to bubble, thus I am not chasing it at all.
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