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Nexy Arche reviews

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ohwell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/25/2018 at 11:58am
Originally posted by SmackDAT SmackDAT wrote:

Originally posted by NextLevel NextLevel wrote:

SmackDAT,

Do I strike you as a passive Looper?

Hi, I meant to say if you are are not an aggressive looper or you prefer to brush the ball over hitting through the sponge, in my opinion you are more of a brush looper? So I think it's well suited to you even though you are aggressive, you are not like the new generation that love to hit through the sponge for example many England top level players like drinkhall? (or just many young tournament players I see)

Look at it this way: what about looping with hard, tacky Chinese rubbers?  Arguably, the hit through the sponge to spin approach you have in mind would do even worse on Hurricane 3 than on MX-S.  Yet it's hard to think of a rubber more oriented towards aggressive looping than H3. 

MX-S is extremely different from tacky Chinese rubbers, but the same point applies: the fact that it favors a different approach towards generating extreme spin than, e.g. T05, doesn't make it ill suited for aggressive looping.  

Side note: (not unlike H3) a common complain about MX-S is that it requires too much effort to really pay off with extreme spin values (compared to typical spinny tenergy/tensor style rubbers).  (See, e.g., the review from tt-spin.de).  In a way it's the opposite of your point: many people find it to really come into its own with extremely aggressive looping.  

But there's a flip side to this point, which might speak to your experience with it: some say that MX-S punishes relying too much on aggressive looping for players that can't consistently maintain high enough head speed on those loops.  For those players (which is most of us, really), getting the most out of the rubber will often involve relying on a much broader range of shots than just power loops..  (Something very similar can again be said about H3, btw.)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ohwell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/25/2018 at 11:59am
Originally posted by Magic_M Magic_M wrote:


Maybe it is easier to remove the complete crystal and fill the hole with a black filling-material. 

Has anyone successfully done that on a nexy blade?  (Specifically, I wonder if this can easily be done without disassembling the handle and lens..)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote doushikunlun Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/25/2018 at 7:23pm
Thank you. I didnt know it is newly released. It is available on the Korean store, but shipping kills it. I will wait for it to be available in US.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BH-Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/25/2018 at 9:00pm
Available in US dsk. Bogeyhunter is the CEO of nexyusa.com the US distributor for Nexy. He just got some in last order. Shipping on the blade would be free.

Since you have California as your location, you might run into me one day at a club or tourney.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SmackDAT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/03/2018 at 2:49am
Ultimately ended up getting rid of the blade, due to the fact that it lacked the extra zip I was used to with ALC type blades, even with rubbers like MX-P. On the other hand, I confirmed that I prefer FL handles so I changed to a new Viscaria.

The shots I was playing with the Arche were more consistent but obviously lacked the speed which I somewhat blame for my technique that I have adapted to fast blades(!). But that being said I don't necessarily lack control with koto-ALC blades which is why I switched back and make more mistakes unforced in match play anyway.

Better in all aspects apart from short game control (but not feel for myself) and flicks/open ups, I don't regret trying out this harder all wood blade but it may be for someone seeking more control.

Note: I was considering using Mizutani ZLC again but I decided the numbness of ALC but especially the crisp koto outer would benefit my short game and counter game at the expensive of better flicks/open ups


Edited by SmackDAT - 03/03/2018 at 3:24am
DHS Hurricane Long 5 90g
Evolution MX-P 2.1/2.2 - boosted with 1 layer of TRF
Total Weight: 194g

https://goo.gl/bFWoxW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SmackDAT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/03/2018 at 2:58am
Originally posted by ohwell ohwell wrote:

Originally posted by SmackDAT SmackDAT wrote:

Originally posted by NextLevel NextLevel wrote:

SmackDAT,

Do I strike you as a passive Looper?

Hi, I meant to say if you are are not an aggressive looper or you prefer to brush the ball over hitting through the sponge, in my opinion you are more of a brush looper? So I think it's well suited to you even though you are aggressive, you are not like the new generation that love to hit through the sponge for example many England top level players like drinkhall? (or just many young tournament players I see)

Look at it this way: what about looping with hard, tacky Chinese rubbers?  Arguably, the hit through the sponge to spin approach you have in mind would do even worse on Hurricane 3 than on MX-S.  Yet it's hard to think of a rubber more oriented towards aggressive looping than H3. 

MX-S is extremely different from tacky Chinese rubbers, but the same point applies: the fact that it favors a different approach towards generating extreme spin than, e.g. T05, doesn't make it ill suited for aggressive looping.  

Side note: (not unlike H3) a common complain about MX-S is that it requires too much effort to really pay off with extreme spin values (compared to typical spinny tenergy/tensor style rubbers).  (See, e.g., the review from tt-spin.de).  In a way it's the opposite of your point: many people find it to really come into its own with extremely aggressive looping.  

But there's a flip side to this point, which might speak to your experience with it: some say that MX-S punishes relying too much on aggressive looping for players that can't consistently maintain high enough head speed on those loops.  For those players (which is most of us, really), getting the most out of the rubber will often involve relying on a much broader range of shots than just power loops..  (Something very similar can again be said about H3, btw.)
Agree to an extent but ultimately it depends on the technique as much as the velocity of the shot, I believe players with styles like like Drinkhall or even Harimoto (for now as his dad's a ex china player) maybe toned down level wise, where they hit through the sponge would still prefer Tenergy, MXP, euro style rubber, as they will be unable to generate the spin by hitting through the sponge.

I think that aggressive loopers who can brush more like Ishikawa, Ito or even JYS and have the Chinese style technique will benefit from H3 and to a lower extent MXS over euro rubbers, 

Originally posted by ohwell ohwell wrote:

But there's a flip side to this point, which might speak to your experience with it: some say that MX-S punishes relying too much on aggressive looping for players that can't consistently maintain high enough head speed on those loops

But here is the thing I want to point out there is a reason why so many extremely aggressive power loopers at a professional level still prefer Tenergy and MXP even if they can boost a hardened MXS/H3 to bits (e.g. Franziska, Shibaev, Lee sang su, Ovtcharov who tried H3 who are obviously pros who can produce way more velocity than us, even the best league players).

My point is that the aspect of technique in playing with a brush/chinese style vs euro rubber is as significant, if not more than the simple ferocity of shots. If that were the case, all professionals who attack would be heavily boosting H3/MXS instead of what they are using now, look at the top 100, and more shockingly European national teams (no1 uses tacky rubbers)

How come even I play way stronger loops than my chinese friend(s) who are similar level to me who use H3 and TG3 on fh/bh (physically smaller but also style/technique). I personally disliked MX-S (even though I have an aggressive backhand) because the lower throw put me off as I don't brush loop with backhand, I prefer engaging the sponge when opening up because it puts more pressure on higher level opponents who can counter brush loops. 

I don't like anecdotes but I will have to strongly disagree on the premise if you can't loop with high speed therefore you can't play with rubbers like H3/MXS. That is an absurd assumption as disproved by my examples above. You can even watch my videos, I prefer to engage the sponge but I hit hard and have always preferred Euro rubbers despite a brief stint with boosted H3 (which I actually enjoyed and played well with apart from the volatility of performance, despite being even slower than MXS boosted)



Edited by SmackDAT - 03/03/2018 at 3:26am
DHS Hurricane Long 5 90g
Evolution MX-P 2.1/2.2 - boosted with 1 layer of TRF
Total Weight: 194g

https://goo.gl/bFWoxW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ohwell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/03/2018 at 1:52pm
Originally posted by SmackDAT SmackDAT wrote:



I don't like anecdotes but I will have to strongly disagree on the premise if you can't loop with high speed therefore you can't play with rubbers like H3/MXS.



We agree on that point, not sure what made you think we don’t.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SmackDAT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/03/2018 at 5:02pm
Originally posted by ohwell ohwell wrote:

Originally posted by SmackDAT SmackDAT wrote:



I don't like anecdotes but I will have to strongly disagree on the premise if you can't loop with high speed therefore you can't play with rubbers like H3/MXS.



We agree on that point, not sure what made you think we don’t.

Ahh I phrased it wrong I am saying that not all powerloopers would suit with h3 and mxs so it isn't about the velocity of the ball per se the weight of style and technique is more significant m
DHS Hurricane Long 5 90g
Evolution MX-P 2.1/2.2 - boosted with 1 layer of TRF
Total Weight: 194g

https://goo.gl/bFWoxW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SmackDAT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/03/2018 at 5:03pm
All of that to write and typed main bit wrong!
DHS Hurricane Long 5 90g
Evolution MX-P 2.1/2.2 - boosted with 1 layer of TRF
Total Weight: 194g

https://goo.gl/bFWoxW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NextLevel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/03/2018 at 9:07pm
This is a Nexy Arche thread - i would contribute more to the MX-S debate but maybe on another thread at another time.

I like the blade a lot for linear control and I may try it with Tenergy at some point just to see what the outcome looks like. It definitely helps liven up MX-S a little with the higher throw Wenge. But MX-S is pretty lively for a brush Looper like myself.

Edited by NextLevel - 03/03/2018 at 9:07pm
I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ohwell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/04/2018 at 10:44am
NL, have you been preferring to use the blade sides as intended, or with Ash on the fh?

I think I see what you mean with the wenge being lively compared to the ash. To me it also has a softer feel than the ash: I sometimes picture it as feeling more elastic, like a rubber band stretching with the ball. The ash side usually feels more direct.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NextLevel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/04/2018 at 9:20pm
Originally posted by ohwell ohwell wrote:

NL, have you been preferring to use the blade sides as intended, or with Ash on the fh?

I think I see what you mean with the wenge being lively compared to the ash. To me it also has a softer feel than the ash: I sometimes picture it as feeling more elastic, like a rubber band stretching with the ball. The ash side usually feels more direct.


I use the blade as intended.
I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Antuan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/09/2018 at 2:26am
Which is the thickness of the blade?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Magic_M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/09/2018 at 7:33am
5,9 mm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yogi_bear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2018 at 12:57am
I love the white ash side. The Arche is really good but i think the other side is a bit hard for me. Probably needs a softer rubber for the bh if you use the white ash side for your fh.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Magic_M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2018 at 1:50am
For me it is the opposite: I LOVE the side with the "Rubicon outer veneer". Big smile
With Nittaku Faster G1 it is a "perfect match" for my forehand. T05 also fits very good.
Actually I am testing some rubbers for the white ash side (backhand).
Next week I will post a first review.


Edited by Magic_M - 03/10/2018 at 1:50am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NextLevel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2018 at 12:12pm
I wish both sides were the Rubicon Veneer to be honest, but I like both sides.  I use high dwell spinny rubbers so I need something that releases the ball really quickly.

The main thing for me is that the handle and balance of the blade fit my play perfectly.  The demerit is the lack of a carbon/composite veneer that adds power when you go for it - on this I agree with SmackDat.  My consistency with it is excellent though.  I will likely go back and forth between it and my Calix 2 for a while.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fd8hUWQC2Ik  
I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote VictorK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2018 at 3:05pm
Originally posted by NextLevel NextLevel wrote:

  I will likely go back and forth between it and my Calix 2 for a while.


It's interesting (I'm not surprised) you're planning to go back and fourth between Arche and Calix 2 ... I've observed meaningful similarities in how the two blades feel and play, especially the FH side.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NextLevel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2018 at 5:38pm
Originally posted by VictorK VictorK wrote:

Originally posted by NextLevel NextLevel wrote:

  I will likely go back and forth between it and my Calix 2 for a while.



It's interesting (I'm not surprised) you're planning to go back and fourth between Arche and Calix 2 ... I've observed meaningful similarities in how the two blades feel and play, especially the FH side.




I think for you the handle will be closer to what you prefer given your preference for thick handles. This handle is definitely thicker than the usual Nexy handles and I wish my Calix 2 had a similar handle.
I like putting heavy topspin on the ball...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote VictorK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2018 at 5:56pm
You're right, I do love the handle on Arche. As a matter of fact, this is the most comfortable handle I've used in a long while.

Edited by VictorK - 03/10/2018 at 5:57pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote h0n1g Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/16/2018 at 1:34am
Finally glued on an MX-S and MX-P today. I'll be testing this over the next two weeks and then report in
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SmackDAT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/16/2018 at 9:04am
Originally posted by NextLevel NextLevel wrote:

I wish both sides were the Rubicon Veneer to be honest, but I like both sides.  I use high dwell spinny rubbers so I need something that releases the ball really quickly.

The main thing for me is that the handle and balance of the blade fit my play perfectly.  The demerit is the lack of a carbon/composite veneer that adds power when you go for it - on this I agree with SmackDat.  My consistency with it is excellent though.  I will likely go back and forth between it and my Calix 2 for a while.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fd8hUWQC2Ik  
It's a really good blade for what it is, actually this blade I would prefer if I could generate more power and/or didn't have to put as much pressure on opponents, great feeling
DHS Hurricane Long 5 90g
Evolution MX-P 2.1/2.2 - boosted with 1 layer of TRF
Total Weight: 194g

https://goo.gl/bFWoxW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote zeon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/17/2018 at 1:06am
Hi everyone,

Very short backhand video with Nexy ARCHE blade. my backhand short pimple Flarestorm II..

I'll add full review comments soon..Thank you


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1pms9lopvU
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Magic_M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/18/2018 at 4:44am
Its time to post a first review now.

In the last three weeks I tested the Arche with three different rubbers: Nexy Karis M, Victas V>15 Extra and Nittaku Fastarc G1, always with identical rubbers on fh and bh, although I normally prefer different rubbers on both sides because my strategy is different on both sides. With my forehand I try to open the game from backspin of my opponent as soon as possible (with a longer arm motion) and then I try to win the point with a harder topspin. On backhand I try to open the game with my wrist and then (in the open game) I try to win the point with block, smash and good ball placement. Therefore I prefer a flatter arc on backhand while I need a higher arc on my forehand, because this seems to be one of my biggest problems when I try to loop from backspin.

As Nexy Arche has different outer veneers on forehand and backhand I wanted to know, if there is really a difference between the feeling of both sides, because I have tested some "combination-blades" before and most of them were only named as combi-blades, but the feeling was (more or less) the same.

In my first test with Karis M the feeling was really good on both sides, but something was missing. For example I like Karis M on my Viscaria and I use it since a longer time on backhand. But on Arche it was not the same pleasure to play with. Nevertheless I noticed that there IS a difference between forehand and backhand. The arc is much higher on forehand with this mystic wood. 

I remembered that I tested the Victas V>15 Extra some weeks before on my Viscaria and found it too fast on this blade. Therefore I thought, this could be a good option on the Arche. So I glued it on both sides (2,0 mm) and this was a good step up from Karis, especially on the forehand side. Looping was extremely easy, especially from 1-2m behind the table. In the passive game this combination was still a bit too fast. On the backhand-side I had tons of power with V>15 Extra, but for competition I would prefer a thinner version of this rubber or a slower rubber. To sum up, V>15 Extra fits to the Arche, but I would recommend it for players who mostly play from mid-distance and not near the table.

In the last two weeks I exclusively tested the Arche with Nittaku Fastarc G1 on both sides (and 2,0 mm) and liked this combination from the first moment on. After only one training-session I decided to use it in our next competition game - with success. Smile

Like I wrote before, I usually play with more spin insensitive rubbers on my backhand, but due to the low catapult-effect of G1 and due to the low arc of the Arche backhand side (white ash) I can easily manage to return the opponents attacks. It is only necessary to play the block a little bit active, to place the block in the right way. If you block completely passiv, G1 would be the wrong rubber for you.

It also seems to be very hard for the opponent to open the game if I play with heavy backspin with the G1. The next positive thing is, that it is easier to me to open the game from underpin because of the grip of G1. The only thing, that is missing, is a bit more power on hard smashes with my backhand, but that's ok for me in the moment. For players who are usually playing from mid-distance, G1 would not be the right rubber (and Arche not the right blade), but for me it is a really good choice. I am astonished, but happy with this.

Let us talk about the forehand-side now. I don't know, which kind of wood is used on this side. Andy smith voted for Lati, a kind of "white wenge". Maybe he is right, but it does not matter for me. More important is the fact, that I really like the forehand, because I have a direct feeling and the arc is high enough for me to make it easy to loop from the opponents backspin.

I have tested several Nexy blades before (Lissom, Arirang, Calix, Color, Kanaph, Olam, Oscar, Peterpan, Zealot and Rubicon, Tibhar Inca and Kim Jung Hoon) and this is definitely the Nexy blade, that fits best to me and my game. Thanks a lot to Nexy for developing and introducing this wonderful blade.

My only wish and recommendation to Nexy is, to produce their blades without this crystal in the handle. because 1) it looks cheap, 2) it really bothers during the game and 3) it is not easy to remove or sand it without destroying the beautiful handle.

To all testers, who don't like the Arche, because it is too slow or the feeling is not right for you: please contact me. Maybe you like one of my other blades and we can manage a trade. I would be happy with another Arche for additional rubber-tests. Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote patrickhrdlicka Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2018 at 1:40am

I apologize for the tardiness of my review. Work has been exceptionally busy, and the regional tournament schedule has rendered testing somewhat challenging. This week, I got (yet another) injury. The Arche is next on my testing schedule.

Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=69419&title=feedback-patrickhrdlicka

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote patrickhrdlicka Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/02/2018 at 1:32am

Thank you to Nexy for the opportunity to evaluate the Arche blade and Arg0 for organizing this test. I apologize for the tardiness of this review. 

Background:  I am 41 yr old with a spin-offensive FH style who uses short pips in my BH. My USATT rating at the time of testing was 2180. 

Introduction: According to Nexy’s marketing material, which can be found here (http://nexyttstore.com/blade/534-arche.html) and includes high-quality images of the blade, the 7-ply Arche is described as a more powerful version of the Kim Jung Hoon blade, which is sold under the Tibhar brand name. The Nexy Arche is unusual in the sense that it is a combination blade, i.e., it has a asymmetric veneer composition. The FH side has been optimized for “power and drag” producing a long trajectory with a high arc, whereas the BH side has been optimized for “technique and control”.

Unboxing: https://youtu.be/qs4BjMAMsZ4

The blade comes in Nexy’s standard black box which has red, green and white secondary colors. The packaging is simple, elegant and does a fully adequate job at protecting the blade. On one hand, the blade has a rustic ‘woody’ look to it due to the nature of the surface plies, whereas the handle - with its dark grey primary color and red and white secondary colors, silver tag on the FH side and bottom of the handle, and Nexy’s signature ‘jewel’ - gives it a more modern look. The styles mesh well together in my opinion. The brown surface wood on the FH side of the Arche appears to be of the same type that was used for Nexy’s Rubicon blade (which has been suggested to be Lati), whereas the white surface wood on the BH side looks like white ash. The ‘lati’ ply looks fragile with visible irregular channels in the vertical direction, while the BH top ply has longer and more uniform channels. Nonetheless, the playing surfaces feel smooth and the build quality of the Nexy Arche appears to be very good. The FL handle rested comfortably in my relatively large hands, but is not nearly as embracing as Rubicon’s wide straight (WST) grip . The wings have been slightly sanded for comfort.

The Nexy Arche is a 7-ply all-wood which is a blade type that I have used and tested extensively in recent months. Unfortunately, Nexy does not provide information about the composition of the individual plies, but if I were to guess I would say that the medium-thick core is burnt kiri, which is followed by thin ayous and/or limba layers, and very thin surface plies (lati and white ash for FH and BH, respectively).

The Arche has a head size of 157 x 150 mm and thickness of 5.9 mm. My specimen weighed 85 g. Bouncing a ball on either side of the naked blade produced a pitch that is lower than that of a Tibhar Samsonov Force Pro Black Edition, but higher than that of a DHS Hurricane Long 3 (1378, 1356 and 1324 Hz, respectively).

Testing procedure: I started out by sealing the Nexy Arche with two thin layers of Joola’s Blade Sealing Varnish (https://www.megaspin.net/store/default.asp?pid=j-sealing-varnish) as I was concerned about potential splintering (I did not experience any splintering when peeling rubbers off subsequently). I attached well-used sheets of commercial DHS Hurricane 3 Neo (2.15 mm, black) and Spinlord Waran II (2.0 mm, red) short pips on the FH and BH side, respectively, using the Revolution 3 normal viscosity glue. I evaluated the set-up over ~2 sessions, playing a mix of simple drills and matches against my regular practice partners using the DHS 3* 40+ plastic balls. I also evaluated the ‘reverse setup’ in which the H3 Neo was placed on the (white) BH side and the Waran II was on the (brown) FH side around for a session.

Playing impressions: I started with the regular setup, i.e., H3N on the brown side and the Waran II short pips on the white side. FH drives feel crisp, even with the H3N, which normally does not promote this type of feeling. Harder FH drives produce the type of cracking sensation that is consider typical of a burnt kiri core. Contrary to the marketing material (i.e., “drag”), I would characterize the dwell time on the FH side as no more than average. The blade is relatively fast (OFF/OFF- interphase) and the ball pings off relatively quickly. The feeling on BH drives was softer and dwellier, producing a rather long trajectory, which are characteristics that do not fit too well with short pips. FH looping against blocks produces a well-defined contact point, which helped me adjust the bat angle for improved consistency. For the same reason, I also found it easy to FH loop against heavy backspin. The ball has sufficient clearance over the net and a good amount of spin is produced. FH blocking is pleasant again because the contact point is felt clearly. Having played with thicker 7-ply all-wood blades in the recent months, however, it is evident that the Arche is thinner and less capable of fully absorbing incoming energy, especially on BH blocks. Given this, and the soft feeling of the surface veneer, I had difficulties producing consistent BH blocks against very high-quality loops. FH flat hits are delightful to play and rather fast, whereas the characteristics of the BH side lend themselves more towards looping than smashing. Both sides work well in the short game, on serve receives, and for serving. Nothing unusual in either direction.

The reverse setup, i.e., with H3N on the white side and the Waran II short pips on the brown side, produced results that are consistent with (but inverse relative to) my observations with the normal setup. That is, the contact point when using the H3N is softer and less well-defined, resulting in longer trajectories and slightly higher spin levels when looping. However, I prefer clearly define contact points and my consistency decreases whenever that is not the case. BH drives, flat hits and blocks, on the other hand, felt crisp and allowed for precise placement of the ball.

Hands down, I prefer the brown side of the Arche for the direct sensation that it provides and I would have loved to try out the corresponding blade with symmetric veneer composition. My guess is such a blade would feel quite similar to one of the blades from Andro’s old Temper Tech series – probably the OFF with Walnut outers – which has been a recurring favorite of mine.

So, who would enjoy this blade? I think pronounced two-winged loopers using Tenergy or ESN rubbers would enjoy it in reverse orientation (brown in FH, white in FH) as the FH side provides power and precise contact, whereas the softer feeling and longer trajectory of the white side might off-set the lower power levels that normally can be imparted on BH shots. In addition, those players who like white ash outer plies on the FH side (Nittaku Violin; ITC Premier XF/XR) and who uses lower throw rubbers or even short pips in BH, will also like this rubber. The Nexy Arche, being a Hurricane FH and short pips BH player, simply does not suit me.   

Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=69419&title=feedback-patrickhrdlicka

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Magic_M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/02/2018 at 3:38am
Originally posted by patrickhrdlicka patrickhrdlicka wrote:

<span style="text-align: justify;">Hands down, I prefer the brown side of the Arche for the direct sensation that it provides and I would have loved to try out the corresponding blade with symmetric veneer composition. 
</span>
That`s what I meant. The forehand-side is really special, which I have not experienced on any other blade. I really like the feeling.

In the last 2 weeks I continued using Nexy Arche and also used it in competition games - with good success. Nevertheless I still did not find the perfect matching rubber for the backhand-side. Actually I am thinking about testing Fastarc C-1 on backhand. Fastarc G-1 is still perfect for the forehand-side.


Edited by Magic_M - 04/09/2018 at 1:02am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kangp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/03/2018 at 12:21pm
Just got back from a business trip so my review was delayed quite a bit.
Finished gluing it up with my normal cpen rubber setup.

FH: DHS Skyline
BH: Yinhe Moon

Will be testing it out later today.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ohwell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2018 at 6:06pm
Originally posted by Magic_M Magic_M wrote:

Originally posted by patrickhrdlicka patrickhrdlicka wrote:

<span style="text-align: justify;">Hands down, I prefer the brown side of the Arche for the direct sensation that it provides and I would have loved to try out the corresponding blade with symmetric veneer composition. 
</span>
That`s what I meant. The forehand-side is really special, which I have not experienced on any other blade. I really like the feeling.

In the last 2 weeks I continued using Nexy Arche and also used it in competition games - with good success. Nevertheless I still dod not find the perfect matching rubber for the backhand-side. Actually I am thinking about testing Fastarc C-1 on backhand. Fastarc G-1 is still perfect for the forehand-side.

The forehand side is definitely special.  But am I the only one who also loves the backhand side?  It has the kind of direct, vivid feel I appreciate from harder surfaces, but still has incredible ball grab, and feels very comfortable - never harsh or pingy.  The "point" factor Mr. Moon talks about is a helpful metaphor for me: contact on the ash side is more like feeling something with the tip of a finger than with the palm.  (I don't mean finger vs palm on the blade; I mean the way fingers feel so precise compared to the palm.)

To me, the dark wood/forehand side strikes a different balance between vivid feel and ball grab - this time more on the side of grab.  But the feel is less precise - it's a bit more like a palm.  I love it on the forehand. But I'm not sure I like it as much on the backhand.  

If I had to only pick one surface wood for both sides it would probably be ash for me.  But on the whole, ash side on bh + dark wood fh might remain the better option for me.  This is a combi blade done right!

_____________________

Question for other reviewers: do you find the the forehand side more/less linear than the backhand?    


Edited by ohwell - 04/06/2018 at 6:07pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ohwell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/06/2018 at 6:17pm
Originally posted by patrickhrdlicka

<p =msonormal= style=text-align:justify>The reverse setup, i.e., with H3N on the white side and the Waran II short pips on the brown side, produced results that are consistent with (but inverse relative to) my observations with the normal setup. <b>That is, the contact point when using the H3N is softer and less well-defined, resulting in longer trajectories and slightly higher spin levels when looping.</b> However, I prefer clearly define contact points and my consistency decreases whenever that is not the case. BH drives, flat hits and blocks, on the other hand, felt crisp and allowed for precise placement of the ball.</p>[/QUOTE patrickhrdlicka

The reverse setup, i.e., with H3N on the white side and the Waran II short pips on the brown side, produced results that are consistent with (but inverse relative to) my observations with the normal setup. That is, the contact point when using the H3N is softer and less well-defined, resulting in longer trajectories and slightly higher spin levels when looping. However, I prefer clearly define contact points and my consistency decreases whenever that is not the case. BH drives, flat hits and blocks, on the other hand, felt crisp and allowed for precise placement of the ball.

[/QUOTE wrote:



It might just be me, but as far as feel goes, my experience has been the opposite.  (I'm using 2x MX-S (1.9mm).) To me the dark (fh) side has the less defined, less pin-pointed feel for the contact point.  

I'd be glad to hear others' take on this point about feel.

(I'm just referring to feel because I wouldn't say I get lower consistency/precision with either, although the higher arc of the dark/lati side doesn't work as well on bh for me - whereas I quite like the ash side on fh too.)

It might just be me, but as far as feel goes, my experience has been the opposite.  (I'm using 2x MX-S (1.9mm).) To me the dark (fh) side has the less defined, less pin-pointed feel for the contact point.  

I'd be glad to hear others' take on this point about feel.

(I'm just referring to feel because I wouldn't say I get lower consistency/precision with either, although the higher arc of the dark/lati side doesn't work as well on bh for me - whereas I quite like the ash side on fh too.)
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