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osmar92 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12/18/2017 at 7:56pm
So guys lots of discussions have been made regarding combi blades. Do we really come to a conclusion which blade gives strong forehand attack and decent slowness on backhand?
I need fast forehand and def+ or all- on bh.

pls advise
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vanjr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vanjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/19/2017 at 6:43am
I never found one I liked back in my modern defender days. Not sure if there is anything new the last 4 plus years or so. They all seemed to be so similar that a blind food test could full me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vlad0 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/19/2017 at 11:48am
My partner is a modern defender and his FH is powerfull :) using this type of blades you mentioned def+ and all-. Combi blades are intersting but probably will never become popular since you can vary the speed with the rubbers. Def+ or All- are not slow blades for sure. Slower than Off - yes , but not slow if you put fast rubber on it.

Edited by Vlad0 - 12/19/2017 at 11:54am
TB ALC 86gr + D09c/T05
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kevo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/19/2017 at 12:05pm
The Nexy Labyrinthos is the best Combi blade I found and I used it for several years with Andro Powergrip on the FH and OX longpips on the BH. The FH is very fast, Off- at least, but then, so is the BH, though being balsa, it soaked up a lot of power and gave it back as heavy spin.  This was fine with the old celluloid balls but I found the new balls just pinged off it too much.  

So I switched to the Neubauer Matador. It's not a combi blade but is instead a great looping blade with hard outer plies--walnut--making it great for blocking with OX pips/slick antispin rubber as well.  If you score most of your points with your FH--which I think is the only way to play close to the table mod defender now with the new balls--then you can't go wrong with el Matador.  Ole!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GeneralSpecific Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/19/2017 at 10:34pm
I've been thinking about the idea of combination blades again. In a different thread Baal was saying that a racket acts as a single entity meaning that speed from one side to the other wouldn't vary much. I agree with him. The speed won't vary that much.

That being said, I think that the outer layers can have a potential impact on feeling a little bit. I think possibly one outer layer being soft and the other hard could benefit a lot of players actually, as many of us prefer a softer backhand side in general.
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Forehand - Xiom Omega V Asia 2.0mm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cole_ely Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/20/2017 at 1:48pm
I have always agreed with your statement from Baal.  The blade as a whole takes it's stiffness from all the plies together.  The only difference I've felt is a very minor tonal difference from the plies.  Not really any increase in dwell.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cole_ely Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/20/2017 at 1:49pm
Although I do have in my possession the one kris special they had listed as available when I placed my one giant dragon order now several years ago. I head that one had a back ply so soft it was like cork.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ohwell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/20/2017 at 2:47pm
Originally posted by GeneralSpecific GeneralSpecific wrote:

I've been thinking about the idea of combination blades again. In a different thread Baal was saying that a racket acts as a single entity meaning that speed from one side to the other wouldn't vary much. I agree with him. The speed won't vary that much.

I'm no expert, and could be convinced otherwise, but I believe this is only partly correct.  I think this point is partly right: a lot of the movement that matters for our purposes will affect the blade as a whole.  (Think swinging the whole bat.)  However, it's not obvious that we cannot design blades where the movement of the each side is significantly different from that of the other upon impact with the ball.  

AFAIK a lot of the behavior of blades comes from the way they vibrate upon impact with the ball.  Thing is, some materials transmit vibrations more poorly than others.  So at least in theory, it should be possible to increase the difference between the behavior of each side by inserting a ply that transmits vibrations poorly (or at least, more poorly than normal) in between the two sides.  

As an extreme example, think of suspension on cars.  They dramatically reduce some of the vibrations going from the wheels to the rest of the frame and vice versa.  Sure, the wheels and the frame still move as one relative to the road.  But not relative to each other.  (I.e. their horizontal movement is tightly coupled, even though their vertical movement is largely decoupled.)  By analogy, the thought is that we can use materials between the two sides of the blade that act a bit like a suspension.  Much like the car's movement relative to the road, the whole blade will still move as one in very important respects.  But it should be possible to partially decouple some of the sides' movement.  

 So, I might be wrong, but I think a similar idea can be (and has been) exploited for TT blade construction.  That said, AFAIK, it's not easy to exploit this well when building something like a TT blade (esp because of the restrictions on materials, but also because of the form factor required for them to maneuver well (can't be much thicker (or heavier) than normal.)  And just mindlessly slapping different plies on the outside of a blade is unlikely to lead to great differentiation between the two sides.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GeneralSpecific Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/20/2017 at 4:09pm
Yes, I see what you're saying. The Joola Chen Weixing uses a layer of black cloth which I imagine helps dampen the speed on impact. Possibly, if a cloth layer was used as the second layer ONLY on one side of the blade, there might be a stronger difference between the 2 sides. I can't say for certain though as I don't think that's ever been done.

However, as it stands now at the time of this writing, it seems all combination blades aren't as good as most people would like them to be.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote osmar92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/21/2017 at 10:46pm
thank guys
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote osmar92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/21/2017 at 11:24pm
i use anti on bh 1.3 mm and i need powerful fh play. 
I play with regular Korbel blade and wonder if I should switch to anything or will Matador or any combi would do any good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MydasDiablo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/22/2017 at 1:48am
I use a Double Day Terminator ALC/ZLC blade with MX-P FH and Dornenglanz OX BH. The BH is around Off- and the FH OFF/OFF+ so not exactly what the OP asked for but if you use a slower LP or an Anti with their usual dead sponges then it's perfect. If you don't have some speed on the BH then reversal suffers and the ball that goes back is slow enough that the opponent canl kill it. 

I have found the Anigre outer / ALC BH to work incredibly well for pips because it is super low throw which makes rolling, chop-blocking and chopping from distance much more dangerous (and it compensates for the higher speed to keep it on the table), it rarely gives high balls that get killed. I believe this attribute would make it work very well for Anti if you are trained to accurately judge the angle you need for your blocks depending on the amount of incoming spin. Reversal on the BH of this blade is the highest I have ever seen, I have previously used the Dr N. Titan, Dr N. Matador, JSH, S&T Zeus, IF ZLF and Viscaria with my pips and this trumps them all. The S&T Zeus was the best blade when I used D.Tecs as that pip is so fast, however with the new ball it lost some of its effectiveness and I found I couldn't hit through better players on the FH (although if you can spin people off the table this is a good choice due to the Kiso Hinoki outer). 160x159 head size was a good compromise between standard and oversized, but for flips etc I have found going down to 157x150 has given me more maneuverability and options.   

As for the Koto / ZLC forehand, very similar feel to a TB ZLC. Very stiff and can flat hit through any amount of spin (I have had some very funny looks from people when they give me their spinniest slow loop and I just bash straight through it at 100mph!). Looping takes good brushing technique, you can counter-loop from anywhere on the court but again you only need to brush the ball as if you hit through it you are likely to miss the table. 

Handles come a little thin, I use grip tape on mine and that works really well (also balances the blade). Craftsmanship is better than Butterfly, yep absolutely flawless, although you do need to sand the wings and they include sandpaper to do so. 

You can buy them here:



In case you didn't know, Double Day used to make the Black Tag blades for Butterfly.     


Edited by MydasDiablo - 12/22/2017 at 1:53am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote osmar92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/22/2017 at 5:58pm
thx , quite informative/

as for Matador some claim that Matator is not that springy as some carbon blades. Can you counter that?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ohwell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/22/2017 at 11:48pm
I can't vouch for them - haven't played their blades - but re-impact seems to be doing interesting things with combi blades, some of which might suit your purposes: http://re-impact-blades.com
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MydasDiablo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/23/2017 at 2:56am
The Matador is not springy like a carbon blade, it is around the same speed as your korbel when hitting hard and slower in the lower and medium gears. It is stiffer than a korbel and the top ply is so heavily varnished you will need some good glue to stick rubbers on it! It gives very good reversal and it flat hits really well. I used the Matador with D.Tecs OX BH and Rasant Powergrip FH and had some great results. The reason I left it was the lack of flex and low throw, which made looping difficult. However, I think the problem was that I was using a 50 degree rubber with a very low throw on the forehand. As long as you used a rubber on the FH with a softer topsheet/sponge the Matador would be a great alternative to your Korbel with the emphasis on the effectiveness of the BH blocks with your Anti. I can't help but think the way the Matador plays, it was designed for LP/Anti BH and Short Pips FH, but inverted does work too.

Re-Impact blades are great, my Dr. N Titan was made by the master that is Achim Rendler. Because he uses balsa wood and makes the blades super thick (10-13mm), you get a bigger difference in speed between the FH and BH than usually possible with thinner blades. These blades brake the ball on BH better than any others I have tried, reversal depends on the outer ply used. The thing to get used to is the feeling of Balsa, which in unique and you may or may not like it. I think these blades are great if you chop on FH (especially using V-401) or play tactically with spins and surprise hits, but don't expect to powerloop on FH from long distance.

Der Materialspezialist makes blades optimised for use with Anti, the DMS Revolution is used by a couple of high level players sponsored by him.

You really need to decide what is going to be your main weapon, if that is the Anti then it makes sense to choose a blade made for that purpose i.e. Dr. N/Re-Impact/DMS. If however you will most of your points with your forehand, then find a blade that works best for your forehand and then adjust the type of Anti and its sponge thickness to ensure the speed can be controlled on that blade. Simon Huth is one of the best Anti players around, last time I checked he used a JK SZLC with T05 FH and 1.8mm Dr. N Buffalo Anti BH, thicker sponge to compensate for the speed of the blade. I did a similar thing with my OX LP setup, went from a S&T Zeus to a Viscaria to concentrate on my forehand and changed the pips from D.Tecs to Dornenglanz as the latter are much slower and easier to control.       


Edited by MydasDiablo - 12/23/2017 at 2:59am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malin87 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/23/2017 at 4:47am
Hello, currently there aren't any blades with different composites on the market! This is wrong imo because most players are not the same aggresive from both sides...for example i bought a custom blade with carbon-limba-limba on the bh and limba-zl carbon-koto on the fh. I play with pimples on the bh so this setup works for me. I prefer fast forhand looping blade and good control with less dwell on the bh..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ohwell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/23/2017 at 9:14am
Originally posted by malin87 malin87 wrote:

Hello, currently there aren't any blades with different composites on the market!


The double day blade recommended above is just that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote osmar92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/23/2017 at 9:32am
Actually I did try Der Mat blades Revolution and wizard. Revolution is very good with anti but low throw on forehand for my play with Donic Bluefire and I would prefer just a bit more power caz it is ALL+.
Wizard is ok but with my Korbel I do better.

I rarely chop on FH.

I definitely need not less than OFF- on forehand and I'd say that my FH wins 60-75% of balls, and 25-40% with anti.

Here the link of my game against Habesohn maybe it helps you to see what would be better for me.
I am playing after 9 month of should injury and new rubber on forehand( Doniz Z1) that i did not feel well so some mistakes ensued. Obviously i would prefer more speed on fh, 1 game i was adjusting to the opponent, then i had better luck

it stars around 5h12min


https://youtu.be/L6U_o-ZkCH0?list=FLcuo62IewHYNepLryvN8gcA&t=18692


Edited by osmar92 - 12/23/2017 at 9:44am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MydasDiablo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/23/2017 at 12:35pm
Not many people on the forum are going to be able to say, here watch a video of me playing...and it's against Daniel Habesohn! Smile

All the blades made specifically for Anti/LP I have tried have ended up too low throw or just not good for my forehand looping, hence my change to Viscaria and now to Double Day Terminator.

Having watched your game, I would go for the Terminator blade with 1.8mm Anti on BH (Dr. N Buffalo would be my recommendation). This blade is slower and lower throw on the BH side and the ZLC FH side is a pleasure to brush loop with, which fits your technique, and when you want to hit through those slower spinnier balls I have not tried a better blade for that yet - it hits through anything. I guarantee more reversal on your Anti due to the hardness of the Anigre outer ply on the BH, I also find is easier to cushion my BH blocks with this blade than more flexible blades like the Korbel. Blocking spinny loops from your opponent on the forehand side is also easier than any other blade I have tried, the ZLC fibre and stiffness of the blade just absorb all the spin and send it straight back (with all-wood you have to close the angle a lot and that gives less time to direct the ball where you want).   

I have a spare Terminator blade if you want to buy one used to try, it's been used a dozen times and has grip tape already fitted (which I recommend if you use the Flared handle). 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote osmar92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/23/2017 at 12:44pm
thanks a lot,
i just ordered terminator but dont have quote yet and didnt pay.

what is the weight of yours and how much you want for it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MydasDiablo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/23/2017 at 2:10pm
88 Grams.

Pictures: http://https://imgur.com/a/GgKib

Seller Feedback: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=81026&KW=mydasdiablo&title=seller-feedback-thread-for-mydasdiablo

You might even want to try it with the MX-P and Dornenglanz that are on it as they are only 15 hours played, and they play great on it. Dornenglanz is a lot easier to play with than Anti but does a similar job. 

£60 Blade only including delivery to US. 

£80 Blade & Rubbers including delivery to US. 

Prices are £5 more than I would normally charge to take account of the Butterfly Grip tape which cost me a ridiculous £8 but has made the handle incredibly comfortable as it is the best quality. It's essentially 31% off new price (I think he charges $14 shipping) and you get the grip tape free.

If Roman doesn't want it and anyone else does, send me a PM. 


Edited by MydasDiablo - 12/23/2017 at 2:23pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt Pimple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/23/2017 at 2:44pm
In order to have the forehand and backhand sides of the blade to be significantly different in speed, the construction needs to be asymmetric which tends to lead to warping of the blade. I had a discussion with a blade builder about this at some point and that is the biggest issue with combi blades. One possible way to get around this to some extend is to use a very thick balsa core, however then you end up with a 10-14mm thick blade. Therefore a lot of combi blades on the market only have slight differences in the symmetry of the construction like soft top ply on one side and hard ply on the other or ALC on one and ZLC carbon on the other. However, in that case the difference in speed is not that pronounced.
Some of the blades discussed here like the Dr. N Matador are not really combi blades as they have a symmetric construction and therefore the same speed on both sides but they may have been build with using it with anti or lp in mind.
I do agree though with MydasDiablo though that you have to analyze which is your dominant side. If you are covering 75% of the table with your forehand to loop you better look for a good looping blade. On the other hand if you cover 75% of the table with your junk rubber like member pushblocker here you probably want a blade that works excellent with anti or lp.
I personally believe that the Matador is a very compromise though as it gives excellent control and reversal with frictionless anti (I use Rhino now and played Bison and Buffalo with this blade before as well) due to the walnut outers but in my opinion it is also a very nice looping blade because it is fairly thin (6.0mm) for a 7-ply blade.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote haggisv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/24/2017 at 1:35am
Originally posted by Matt Pimple Matt Pimple wrote:

One possible way to get around this to some extend is to use a very thick balsa core, however then you end up with a 10-14mm thick blade.

Very true, that's how Re-Impact does it for their blades. I asked Achim from Re-Impact about this, and he told me you need a certain level of thickness to get isolation between forehand and backhand. Re-Impact also get a further difference by gluing the plies at an angle, in which they get a different rebound depending on the direction you swing... their blades are very technical. Embarrassed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JacekGM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/25/2017 at 10:40pm
Roman, you are a great athlete! Congratulations on the match against Habesohn. It is inspirational to see an older gentleman almost get a couple games from a recognized pro player! Habesohn is usually easily getting "very upset...", so he was a great match for you, in the mental game area. If you only had a reliable forehand loop you actually might have beaten him! 
Based on what I saw in the video, you do not need a different blade at all. You need to practice using your forehand loop, and especially the footwork that would help with execution of this shot. In whatever free time you have, that is...Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote osmar92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/26/2017 at 8:57am
Thanks a lot
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote osmar92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/26/2017 at 9:06am
I had 9month break due to shoulder injury and played with new rubber Donic z1. Also I didn't expect Habesohn to generate so much underpin on simple pushes or on his serve returns. But still my blade off-hand nowadays with plastic balls it is not enough it seems. 
Had I been less erroneous I could have grabbed game or two. 
I hope I play him again :)) and knowing his style I might have better luck. :)
As for footwork it is difficult at my age get significant improvement unless I dedicate lots of time, however, I have other liabilities on my life :)) 


Edited by osmar92 - 12/26/2017 at 9:09am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mog1111 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/26/2017 at 6:52pm
I have just switched to lp palio ck531a on bh and having awesome results for my level.

so here is the problem I love stiga infinity and tenergy 05fx on fh, but pimples don't quite work on bh.
so I bought a second hand TSP 6.5mm balsa and the palio on bh is fantastic, I don't think people would believe how well I attack and hit and punch with them, but he tenergy is not nice on fh and very hard to loop

anyone tried giant dragon kris or yinhe t-9.
tempted by yinhe t-9 but with the pimples on the carbon side

even wondered about a butterfly x5 but don't tnow if it would feel like carbon enough.

I tried glueing an Andro carbon light back to back with an infinity but it failed to work
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