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Which Long Pips Rubber ?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mhnh007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/04/2018 at 2:30pm
Did any one try Sauer Tröger Hellfire?  Is it on par with D-Grass, or GD?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pushblocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/04/2018 at 1:04pm
Originally posted by Veet Veet wrote:

Originally posted by Pushblocker Pushblocker wrote:


As I said before, Pogo is not a rubber with a huge disturbing effect.. No reversal to speak off.. In my opinion, Pogo is a good rubber to LEARN to play with long pips to get the right technique to keep the ball low and to return serves etc. Once the technique is solid, it is a good idea to go to rubbers like Talon or DTecs as they produce a lot of reversal and bother opponents but are much harder to use than Pogo. I have Pogo on my racket that I use against spinless players as Pogo gives me great control against no spin shots. It is not as good at blocking like DtecS or Talon but on a slow blade, I have never had issues blocking with it.. Block is usually dead and good technique is required to keep the blocks low.. Again, this is not in any way a disrupting rubber, just a high control long pips for all types of shots.. You can hit with pogo, you can block and push with it etc...

I've had limited success hitting with pogo.. However, success at blocking is almost 0%.. If I keep the blade face open, it shoots off long.. If I close it, even a bit, it goes into the net... 

Not that I am relying on reversal, but yes, it too seems limited... 

Generating spin with chopping is weird.. Sometimes, it does, sometimes it does not.. I guess, it depends where on the blade, it contact the ball, while chopping...

Even side swiping (Left to right) seems difficult... 

But one thing I must say - I can generate some mid-air wobble (and then some more) with this rubber.. However, it does not seem to bother most players... 
I block with exactly 90 degrees blade angle off the bounce.. Open will go long and closed will go into the net.. Reversal is almost not existent with Pogo. It produces a lot of floating returns with little to no spin.
Like I said, it is a great rubber to learn playing with long pips.. A video of your practice sessions would be very helpful.. I would be able to tell what is wrong.. I can block fairly well with Pogo but my blade is quite different from yours, so it's hard to compare. Pogo is one of the rubbers that makes me fell like I can't miss.. It does not bother opponents but I feel extreme control with the rubber.. Especially for service return, the rubber is very insensitive to incoming spin on my blade..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Veet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/04/2018 at 12:56pm
Originally posted by Pushblocker Pushblocker wrote:


As I said before, Pogo is not a rubber with a huge disturbing effect.. No reversal to speak off.. In my opinion, Pogo is a good rubber to LEARN to play with long pips to get the right technique to keep the ball low and to return serves etc. Once the technique is solid, it is a good idea to go to rubbers like Talon or DTecs as they produce a lot of reversal and bother opponents but are much harder to use than Pogo. I have Pogo on my racket that I use against spinless players as Pogo gives me great control against no spin shots. It is not as good at blocking like DtecS or Talon but on a slow blade, I have never had issues blocking with it.. Block is usually dead and good technique is required to keep the blocks low.. Again, this is not in any way a disrupting rubber, just a high control long pips for all types of shots.. You can hit with pogo, you can block and push with it etc...

I've had limited success hitting with pogo.. However, success at blocking is almost 0%.. If I keep the blade face open, it shoots off long.. If I close it, even a bit, it goes into the net... 

Not that I am relying on reversal, but yes, it too seems limited... 

Generating spin with chopping is weird.. Sometimes, it does, sometimes it does not.. I guess, it depends where on the blade, it contact the ball, while chopping...

Even side swiping (Left to right) seems difficult... 

But one thing I must say - I can generate some mid-air wobble (and then some more) with this rubber.. However, it does not seem to bother most players... 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pushblocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/04/2018 at 12:50pm
Originally posted by Egghead Egghead wrote:

They are the treated rubbers from taobao; however, unlike efforter's LP rubber, I read somewhere that ITTF cannot ban them unless ITTF changes the rule.

Actually, treated rubbers are illegal. There is a rule stating that the rubber may not be treated.
However, looking at the wording of the actual rule, if a rubber loses friction naturally (i.e. playing outdoors TT) there really is nothing in the rules that would prevent use of such rubber as long as it is still uniform and undamaged. In Europe, they try to enforce a rule that does not exist.. They have not tried to do it in the USA yet.  Rubbers are required to have a minimum amount of friction when they are manufactured. This means, any "new" rubber must meet that criteria from the factory. This is a REGULATION on manufacturers. If they are caught selling rubbers below the minimum friction level, they can get in trouble with the ITTF and probably will lose authorization of such rubbers. The only time that a low friction rubber is legal if it loses it's friction due to USE!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pushblocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/04/2018 at 12:41pm
Originally posted by Veet Veet wrote:

Hi Egghead,

Thanks for the videos... I did try the side-swipe technique, and managed to hit them a couple of times... Don't know whether they were flukes or whether it was the technique... 

Yesterday, I got totally CREAMED by 2 players, who play at my level... Now, I don't find it difficult to keep the ball in play.. Now, the real challenge is to put EFFECTIVE balls... I noticed, that both the above players, gave me light-to-heavy loops/top-spins. .  Even when I did manage to return (which was not too often), my returns seemed to be empty. The players had little or no trouble, no matter, how I returned...Both players, pushed very little.. I even twiddled to generate spin, but it did not work ..One player, actually commented that now he found it easier to play against me (using LPs), as compared to when I was using inverted... Which is true, cause, with the inverted, I would typically win 5 out of 7 games against him.

One thing I've realised about my game is, ever since I've started using LPs, I have started backing away from the table, and TRYING to chop the ball, especially against loops/top-spins, and fast, long serves... However, I'm pretty sure, I don't chop with an open-face blade, and vertical action. So, although the balls lands on the other side, I'm not sure with what effectiveness..

Another thing - Now with the LPs on the BH, I'm not playing as much on my FH... Even with balls played plumb to the FH, I now tend to crab, and play on my BH...

Blocking/returning top-spins EFFECTIVELY, is a major pain-point. Most of the blocks shot-off long, if I block with an open-face (thinking that I would get reversal), or land into the net, if I keep the face shut, even a bit.

I'm now winning consistently against players below my level. However, most players at my level or above, now (me with LP) find it easier than ever to thrash me.



As I said before, Pogo is not a rubber with a huge disturbing effect.. No reversal to speak off.. In my opinion, Pogo is a good rubber to LEARN to play with long pips to get the right technique to keep the ball low and to return serves etc. Once the technique is solid, it is a good idea to go to rubbers like Talon or DTecs as they produce a lot of reversal and bother opponents but are much harder to use than Pogo. I have Pogo on my racket that I use against spinless players as Pogo gives me great control against no spin shots. It is not as good at blocking like DtecS or Talon but on a slow blade, I have never had issues blocking with it.. Block is usually dead and good technique is required to keep the blocks low.. Again, this is not in any way a disrupting rubber, just a high control long pips for all types of shots.. You can hit with pogo, you can block and push with it etc...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bbkon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/04/2018 at 11:35am
Originally posted by Egghead Egghead wrote:

Originally posted by LUCKYLOOP LUCKYLOOP wrote:

Originally posted by benfb benfb wrote:

In the particular case of my clubmate, I would definitely say that he gained 100-200 points just from this rubber.  He has average skills for LP, but nothing special.  However, with this treated rubber the balls that come off of that rubber are much, much harder to handle.  Before it was easy to beat him and now it's a struggle.  In fact, I've never before seen someone's success go up so much just from changing rubber.

The rubber is clearly illegal, since it's been treated. I also tried looking for the ITTF stamp either on the rubber or the packaging and couldn't find it.




So, the treated rubber is frictionless, harder or softer pips, what appears to be the change ?

All the light-cured LPs that I played have ITTF stamp. 
It is hard to tell you what changed (beside some older light-cured version LPs are shinner), you need to play with it so that you understand it.



whats the diffrence between light cured and UV cured?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Veet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/01/2018 at 2:43am
Originally posted by benfb benfb wrote:

Any chance you could post some videos of you playing?  It's hard to tell much from just he verbal description.

Yes, I understand, and I tried through my phone (I don't have a camera)... The issue is, the club where I play, does not permit phones in the playing area... However, I will still try, perhaps, take the phone without the SIM card, or something like that... I will have to seek permission from the club-manager
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote benfb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/01/2018 at 2:16am
Any chance you could post some videos of you playing?  It's hard to tell much from just he verbal description.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Veet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/01/2018 at 1:48am
Hi Egghead,

Thanks for the videos... I did try the side-swipe technique, and managed to hit them a couple of times... Don't know whether they were flukes or whether it was the technique... 

Yesterday, I got totally CREAMED by 2 players, who play at my level... Now, I don't find it difficult to keep the ball in play.. Now, the real challenge is to put EFFECTIVE balls... I noticed, that both the above players, gave me light-to-heavy loops/top-spins. .  Even when I did manage to return (which was not too often), my returns seemed to be empty. The players had little or no trouble, no matter, how I returned...Both players, pushed very little.. I even twiddled to generate spin, but it did not work ..One player, actually commented that now he found it easier to play against me (using LPs), as compared to when I was using inverted... Which is true, cause, with the inverted, I would typically win 5 out of 7 games against him.

One thing I've realised about my game is, ever since I've started using LPs, I have started backing away from the table, and TRYING to chop the ball, especially against loops/top-spins, and fast, long serves... However, I'm pretty sure, I don't chop with an open-face blade, and vertical action. So, although the balls lands on the other side, I'm not sure with what effectiveness..

Another thing - Now with the LPs on the BH, I'm not playing as much on my FH... Even with balls played plumb to the FH, I now tend to crab, and play on my BH...

Blocking/returning top-spins EFFECTIVELY, is a major pain-point. Most of the blocks shot-off long, if I block with an open-face (thinking that I would get reversal), or land into the net, if I keep the face shut, even a bit.

I'm now winning consistently against players below my level. However, most players at my level or above, now (me with LP) find it easier than ever to thrash me.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Egghead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/30/2018 at 3:46pm
two videos shall help Side Swipe; left-to-right or right-to-left is depending on the incoming side spin; you cannot blindfoldedly swipe the ball Tongue; btw, I find out that Giant Dragon Talon is good for side swipe.






Edited by Egghead - 03/30/2018 at 3:57pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pushblocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/30/2018 at 12:41pm
Originally posted by Veet Veet wrote:

Originally posted by Pushblocker Pushblocker wrote:

What blade are you using?? The blade has a lot to do with the trajectory on your blocks. When blocking at or behind the table against a powerful loop, you may need to close the angle a little bit while if you block the rising ball off the bounce, you should be able to block at 90 degrees. I have used medium fast balsa blades for many years now as I did not like the trajectory with other types of wood cores. The blades speed is also critical for trajectory.. Slower blades tend to have higher trajectory while faster blades have lower trajectory.
Try to get video footage of your practice sessions and I will be able to provide some input on what is the cause of the issues..

I have a Donic Defplay Senso 3

That would explain the higher trajectory.. Slower blade = higher trajectory.. Maybe you should try the pips on a faster blade.. I got best results on ALL+ to OFF- blades.. I was never satisfied with the results on slower than ALL+ blades.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skip3119 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/30/2018 at 9:32am
benfb:

What was this player's (light-cured LP player) rating before he switched to light-cured LP?

Edited by skip3119 - 03/30/2018 at 12:32pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Veet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/30/2018 at 8:43am
Originally posted by Pushblocker Pushblocker wrote:

What blade are you using?? The blade has a lot to do with the trajectory on your blocks. When blocking at or behind the table against a powerful loop, you may need to close the angle a little bit while if you block the rising ball off the bounce, you should be able to block at 90 degrees. I have used medium fast balsa blades for many years now as I did not like the trajectory with other types of wood cores. The blades speed is also critical for trajectory.. Slower blades tend to have higher trajectory while faster blades have lower trajectory.
Try to get video footage of your practice sessions and I will be able to provide some input on what is the cause of the issues..

I have a Donic Defplay Senso 3
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pushblocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/30/2018 at 7:28am
What blade are you using?? The blade has a lot to do with the trajectory on your blocks. When blocking at or behind the table against a powerful loop, you may need to close the angle a little bit while if you block the rising ball off the bounce, you should be able to block at 90 degrees. I have used medium fast balsa blades for many years now as I did not like the trajectory with other types of wood cores. The blades speed is also critical for trajectory.. Slower blades tend to have higher trajectory while faster blades have lower trajectory.
Try to get video footage of your practice sessions and I will be able to provide some input on what is the cause of the issues..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LUCKYLOOP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/30/2018 at 7:10am

You just need to watch videos of long pips techniques, then imitate them.

Lots of those links in one place at North Little Rock Table Tennis Group timeline page on Facebook.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Veet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/30/2018 at 1:46am
Originally posted by IanMcg IanMcg wrote:

do you peel off old glue? If you don't, glue buildup can change ball feeling and playing characteristics slightly.

Yes...  ofcourse... I used water-based glue, which I peeled-off thoroughly, after which I used some very very light sandpaper... 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanMcg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/30/2018 at 1:42am
do you peel off old glue? If you don't, glue buildup can change ball feeling and playing characteristics slightly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Veet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/30/2018 at 1:09am
Hello,

Remember me ? .... the OP   Wink

So, out of sheer frustration, I ripped the Pogo LP, off the blade, and re-glued it..... and guess what - I had an extensive play-session yesterday, and no more weird or absurd behaviour... Whether it was just psychological, or whether there truly was something wrong with my setup - I can't say. It just played, like how one would expect an LP to play... No more ball dropping dead onto the table, after contact, or netting of balls, 99% of the time... 

Ofcourse, it was not all peachy, and I didn't become an over-night LP expert, but I could keep the ball in play, for most parts... But now, whenever I lost a point, I could confidently attribute to lack of know-how, and technique..Nothing bewildering or absurd... Standard LP issues, which I know, with practice, can be over-come... 

My pushes, chopping (on and off the table), ball placement, although far.. far from perfect were much better... Hell, I even managed to hit a few against back-spin... Even managed to get the ball to wobble mid-air, on several occasions..

However, I need some help in troubleshooting the following : -

  1. Blocking (Big.. big issue) - I could not get a single block, back on the table. Be it against top-spins/loops, or smashes... They all just seemed to float long...Infact, blocking on the FH (with inverted) was way way better. Please note - I almost always, block passively. I had no trouble, getting to the ball.

  2. Keeping the ball low - I wouldn't say that the ball would pop-up, but I could not manage, in general, to keep the ball low, which players (of most levels) could easily put away.

  3.  Playing effectively -  A lot of my shots, were "empty", giving the better players, an easy point..

  4. Side Swipe - Just cannot get this stroke... Left-to-right, moving low to high, or high-to-low... right-to-left... nothing... Just could not get it...not even once...The ball would just go wide...

  5. Returning fast,long balls/serves - This is a pretty standard issues most LP players face.. With serves, I found some success returning these type, by switching to the inverted side, but still struggling mid-point, with these type of balls.
All-in-all, it was progress, and rather encouraging...But, I'd like some input/suggestions on the above points... 

Thanks...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote benfb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2018 at 6:39pm
Originally posted by Egghead Egghead wrote:

Before we all rush to taobao and order the light-cured LPs, I need to clear some misunderstanding.
(1) If you have no LPs skills, it will not work. You still need to have basic LPs skills. (To Skip3119: if you have trouble playing with lp, it may not help you).
(2) It will NOT do the frictionless LPs shxt.
(3) the light-cured LPs are not frictionless, just little less sensitive to spin than the regular lps.
(4) the returns of light-cured LPs have stronger spin reversal and a lower ball path, but not at the frictionless lps level. 
(5) this LPs can help you win few pts. However, if you opp knows all LPs shxt and is way better than you, you will still lose the match.

I want to address this a bit more.

First, my experience is with a particular player and his particular sheet of the light-cured LP.  A different player using a different sheet may have different results.

Second, I am reasonably comfortable playing against LP, and have a plus record against them up to 300 points above my rating.  My LP clubmate is someone whom I beat 100% of the time previously, and now struggle with, and the only change was these pips.

However, I understand that representing just my own experience may not impress anyone (it certainly doesn't impress me!).  So let me tell you another story.

We have another guy, player V, who is currently around 2100.  That rating reflects the fact that he's gotten older and slower, and only plays a few times a month.  Fifteen years ago, he was around 2350-2400, so he is very strong and very knowledgeable.  Player V played a match last week with our light-cured LP guy and Player V did win the match.  However, the match score was 3-1; he lost a game. 

That's not a small upset.  Previously, I think you could have asked Player V to give the LP player 6 or 7 points in handicap and still win every game.  I'm sure Player V will have some new tactics the next time those two play, so we shouldn't see any more upsets.  Still, the mere idea that it could occur even once would normally be completely impossible. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote benfb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2018 at 6:29pm
Originally posted by Egghead Egghead wrote:

Originally posted by Matt Pimple Matt Pimple wrote:

Originally posted by Egghead Egghead wrote:

All the light-cured LPs that I played have ITTF stamp.
 
But they are still illegal.
I understand where you come from. However, the light-cured LPs are not frictionless, and the pips sizes are within the rules.


Any rubber which is treated and therefore differs from the version submitted to ITTF for approval is not legal.  It's not just a matter of whether they are frictionless (and I would consider them very close, at least the sample I played against), it's being modified which makes them illegal.  The same applies to using boosters, but the effect is much more dramatic here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Egghead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2018 at 6:05pm
Originally posted by Matt Pimple Matt Pimple wrote:

Originally posted by Egghead Egghead wrote:

All the light-cured LPs that I played have ITTF stamp.
 
But they are still illegal.
I understand where you come from. However, the light-cured LPs are not frictionless, and the pips sizes are within the rules. It is so hard to check it.



Edited by Egghead - 03/29/2018 at 6:34pm
Aurora ST: Rhyzm / Talent OX
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Egghead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2018 at 6:01pm
Originally posted by mog1111 mog1111 wrote:

which giant dragon long pimples would be most similar to palio ck531a? want 0.5 or 0.6mm sponge?
Why pay $15usd per sheet when you can pay $5 per sheet? Confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mog1111 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2018 at 4:58pm
which giant dragon long pimples would be most similar to palio ck531a? want 0.5 or 0.6mm sponge?
Yasaka Ma Lin Carbon
FH: Tenergy 05fx
BH: Spinlord Keiler
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote benfb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2018 at 4:46pm
Originally posted by LUCKYLOOP LUCKYLOOP wrote:

 

So, the treated rubber is frictionless, harder or softer pips, what appears to be the change ?

Regardless of what someone else posted, they appear to me to be very close to frictionless.  Blocks come back strongly reverse and players with mediocre chopping technique can produce strong chops.  

It occurs to me that since these are treated rubbers, they may not all play the same.  Each sheet might be more or less frictionless. I imagine there will be quite a bit of variation.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt Pimple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2018 at 4:18pm
Originally posted by Egghead Egghead wrote:

All the light-cured LPs that I played have ITTF stamp.

But they are still illegal.
OSP Ultimate; Dr. Neubauer Dominance Spin Hard max, Dr. Neubauer Troublemaker 0.5

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skip3119 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2018 at 12:36pm
If my opponent is below 1700, I generally win.
If my opponent is above 1800, I generally lose.

Anything in-between, the match can go either way.
============

The top player in our club uses the same rubber as I do (Dawei 388D-1) and a visiting player from California, Jeff Xiao uses a cheap LP rubber, Palio CK531A -- both of them beat 2100 level players easily. So, the skill counts more than rubber.

I used to hear that west coast players are generally 100 to 200 points higher than east coast players - I thought that's BS.
But after Jeff Xiao visited our club, I think what I heard does have some truth to it.



Edited by skip3119 - 03/29/2018 at 1:55pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Egghead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2018 at 12:22pm
Originally posted by LUCKYLOOP LUCKYLOOP wrote:

Originally posted by benfb benfb wrote:

In the particular case of my clubmate, I would definitely say that he gained 100-200 points just from this rubber.  He has average skills for LP, but nothing special.  However, with this treated rubber the balls that come off of that rubber are much, much harder to handle.  Before it was easy to beat him and now it's a struggle.  In fact, I've never before seen someone's success go up so much just from changing rubber.

The rubber is clearly illegal, since it's been treated. I also tried looking for the ITTF stamp either on the rubber or the packaging and couldn't find it.


So, the treated rubber is frictionless, harder or softer pips, what appears to be the change ?
All the light-cured LPs that I played have ITTF stamp. 
It is hard to tell you what changed (beside some older light-cured version LPs are shinner), you need to play with it so that you understand it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Egghead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2018 at 11:56am
Before we all rush to taobao and order the light-cured LPs, I need to clear some misunderstanding.
(1) If you have no LPs skills, it will not work. You still need to have basic LPs skills. (To Skip3119: if you have trouble playing with lp, it may not help you).
(2) It will NOT do the frictionless LPs shxt.
(3) the light-cured LPs are not frictionless, just little less sensitive to spin than the regular lps.
(4) the returns of light-cured LPs have stronger spin reversal and a lower ball path, but not at the frictionless lps level. 
(5) this LPs can help you win few pts. However, if you opp knows all LPs shxt and is way better than you, you will still lose the match.


Edited by Egghead - 03/29/2018 at 6:05pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mhnh007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2018 at 11:26am
Skip - Usually you will pay the agent for the shipping from agent to you and commission fee.  Don't worry about the commission fee, as when you buy from eBay or Ali express, you pay for commission fee as well, but it's hidden in the total, because the seller pay for it, so the price is generally higher than from Taobao.  The only con buying from Taobao is paying for extra shipping, and a longer wait time due to shipping twice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skip3119 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2018 at 10:14am
Egghead:

Do you think this light-cured 388D-1 plays better than regular 388D-1?
(benfb swear by it.)
===========

I paid $34.23 for 5 sheets ($6.85 per sheet), the money (via Paypal) was sent to the Agent.
The Agent would then buy the rubber and ship to me.
The final cost is unknown, because I don't know how much the Agent will charge me for his service.
(I was unsuccessful to buy directly from Taobao, it never took me to the check-out, tried for 2 hours.)

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