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    Posted: 06/22/2018 at 12:06am
I have been using tear mender for a while. But it gives me trouble sometimes. I generally applies one layer of tear mender on the blade and attach the rubber on the blade after a few minutes when the tear mender layer on the blade is not totally dry, but not too wet either.

It is fine for some blades and rubbers. But if the blade face is very smooth, the rubber can not glued to the blade very well. What is my problem using tear mender and how can I improve the adhesion of the rubber to the blade? Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slevin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/22/2018 at 12:18am
I have a ph.d in applying TM:

  1. Use 3 thin layers
  2. wait for each layer to completely dry before applying next one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketman222 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/22/2018 at 12:51am
In addition to what slevin says, use a fine grit sandpaper to slightly sand the face so that it is a bit rough.

Also use a hair dryer(set to cold air), for drying those thin layers, else it will take you north of an hour to glue both sides.

Edited by rocketman222 - 06/22/2018 at 12:52am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kindof99 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/22/2018 at 1:05am
Originally posted by slevin slevin wrote:

I have a ph.d in applying TM:

  1. Use 3 thin layers
  2. wait for each layer to completely dry before applying next one

3 layers on the rubbers only , right? It is hard to apply more than one layer of TM on a blade based on my experiments. Also, hard to get a smooth rubber surface after TM is totally dry, any suggestion on this?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jt99sf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/22/2018 at 1:37am
Use rubber cement. Embarrassed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slevin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/22/2018 at 2:02am
Originally posted by kindof99 kindof99 wrote:

Originally posted by slevin slevin wrote:

I have a ph.d in applying TM:

  1. Use 3 thin layers
  2. wait for each layer to completely dry before applying next one


3 layers on the rubbers only , right? It is hard to apply more than one layer of TM on a blade based on my experiments. Also, hard to get a smooth rubber surface after TM is totally dry, any suggestion on this?


No, YMMV but I use 3 each on rubber & blade (VERY thin layers). No problems getting smooth rubber surface (it only arises if you use thick layers).

For an EJ, there is nothing better (I got lots of unused Nittaku Finezip at home, but I like TM better).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tyler45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/22/2018 at 5:07pm
Two very thin layers on rubber, and one thin layer on blade. Each dried completely. Applied with a sponge. Then I use baking paper between the rubber and the blade to ensure I get the position right before then pressing it gently on and finally rolling it out with a wine bottle using no pressure at all. This always works. Good luck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/22/2018 at 5:31pm
It is weird to me that given the cost of blade and rubber that people persist with Tearmender when there are many good TT glues that don't present these problems. So they can save a couple of bucks on glue?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tyler45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/22/2018 at 7:04pm
But if it works why change? I suppose the caveat there is “if it works” lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/22/2018 at 7:23pm
what I never really got with TM is to make even coats, I am close and I can't see the difference but it's never perfect so I think of it and it leaves an unsatisfactory feel that I abhor. 
What is the sponge you use? makeup sponges is my best way right now.
I never tried super thin coat x 3 on both blades and rubber: how much weight does it add total going that route?


Edited by fatt - 06/22/2018 at 7:24pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Alisha_Hooksit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/22/2018 at 7:46pm
Originally posted by jt99sf jt99sf wrote:

Use rubber cement. Embarrassed


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chroot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/22/2018 at 8:21pm
For some Stiga blades which have NCT surface or sealed blades, use Donic Vario Clean. One layer on the blade and one layer on the rubber. Wait for about 10 mins, then glue the rubber on the blade. It's never failed. The only problem with Vario Clean is it's not as easy as TM when removing glue on the rubber. I found another use of TM in this case. :) When I need to re-glue my rubber, I apply another layer of TM on the rubber. Wait until it's fully dry, then you can easily remove the Vario Clean residue from the rubber.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jt99sf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/22/2018 at 8:32pm
Originally posted by Alisha_Hooksit Alisha_Hooksit wrote:

Originally posted by jt99sf jt99sf wrote:

Use rubber cement. Embarrassed


+ 1000


I have been using rubber cement since 1981, it’s easy (use a credit card to spread it), cheap and available.
I don’t look for problems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kindof99 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/23/2018 at 12:31am
Thanks all for the replies.

I tried it again with thin layers of TM and waited until TM was dry before attaching the rubbers. It seems to work quite well at the moment. 

I have tried some more adhesive glues and some actually stuck to the blade quite hard after removing the rubber. I will give rubber cement a try if I still have problem with TM in the future. 


Edited by kindof99 - 06/23/2018 at 9:19pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tyler45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/23/2018 at 2:13am
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What is the sponge you use? makeup sponges is my best way right now.
I never tried super thin coat x 3 on both blades and rubber: how much weight does it add total going that route?



I actually use Kutchen sponges, the green and yellow ones (cut into 3 strips). I also wet them a little so they are damp. Often times the rubber is not as perfectly flat as when I used to wet glue, but the bond is really strong, and the slight imperfections (and I really mean tiny) in no way affect play and also don’t look any different to other glue jobs from shops, pro players or other setups I see locally and online. With 2 thin layers on rubber and 1 on blade, the weight is < 2 gr total. I normally pour a 1cm diameter glob onto each and wipe on. Lots of the glue stays on the sponge so the layer itself is really thin. My new Ultimate II arrives next week, I’ll post some pics of the process.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tyler45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/23/2018 at 2:15am
I’ve just remembered why I prefer TM over tt brand glues Baal, it’s because I often resell used rubbers on eBay and with this method the glue is super easy to remove.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/23/2018 at 9:04pm
Ok but bear in mind that wanting glue that comes off sponges so you can resell vs. glue that attaches firmly, reliably, evenly and consistently are almost mutually exclusive. So you are making a tradeoff. But Finezip comes close, as does viscous version of Revolution 3.

Problem with TM is QC, or more fairly that variations from batch to batch don't matter for its intended purpose. It also dries too fast and unevenly and in clumps. Some people dilute it, others add a little ammonia, which solves some of these issues.   Wturber made a bunch of detailed posts on this a few years ago. He found ways to make it work.   

I just buy a quality TT product designed for the purpose of attaching expensive rubber to an expensive blade. These days I use Finezip or Free Chaque 2.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tyler45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/25/2018 at 7:09am
you've made me want to try finezip now - just when i thought my ej days were over... they drag me back in ;)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeaverMD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/25/2018 at 9:52am
Originally posted by Baal Baal wrote:

It is weird to me that given the cost of blade and rubber that people persist with Tearmender when there are many good TT glues that don't present these problems. So they can save a couple of bucks on glue?

Timo Boll ZLC blade, $260
Two new sheets of Tenergy, $160 
Saving a few bucks on VOC-free glue, priceless Smile

And if you're still using rubber cement on any speed glue effect sponge (Tenergy or Tensors), you might as well flush your money down the toilet because you are not using the rubber but some mutated form of it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mhnh007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/25/2018 at 10:29am
I used to use TM, because I changed rubber in and out for testing with different blades frequently.  It is easy to detach, and clean.  The only place I can get TM from is ordering it from Amazon US, and the price has gone up quite a bit, since I last use.  So with the exchange rate, and shipping, plus the number of time you have to re-glue, I don't think it's is that much cheaper than getting actual TT glue. Also, TM takes longer to dry, and you need to re-glue more often, which could lead to ruining the blade top ply, if you are not careful.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ZingyDNA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/25/2018 at 10:46am
Originally posted by BeaverMD BeaverMD wrote:

Originally posted by Baal Baal wrote:

It is weird to me that given the cost of blade and rubber that people persist with Tearmender when there are many good TT glues that don't present these problems. So they can save a couple of bucks on glue?


Timo Boll ZLC blade, $260
Two new sheets of Tenergy, $160 
Saving a few bucks on VOC-free glue, priceless Smile

And if you're still using rubber cement on any speed glue effect sponge (Tenergy or Tensors), you might as well flush your money down the toilet because you are not using the rubber but some mutated form of it.


But if you use a setup less than 60 dollars, (quite) a few dollars matter, right?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jt99sf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/25/2018 at 11:21am
Originally posted by BeaverMD BeaverMD wrote:

And if you're still using rubber cement on any speed glue effect sponge (Tenergy or Tensors), you might as well flush your money down the toilet because you are not using the rubber but some mutated form of it.

Thank goodness my playing level won't notice the difference. Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/25/2018 at 1:35pm
Originally posted by Tyler45 Tyler45 wrote:

you've made me want to try finezip now - just when i thought my ej days were over... they drag me back in ;)


Actually if getting the sponge off the rubber is really important, you might like Revolution 3 even better, but if you go that route, get the viscous versions.  (it comes in three versions depending on how watery it is, and the most watery form has a lot of the same issues as Tearmender).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/25/2018 at 2:35pm
At the beginning of the tear mender craze, some now doubtful people were recommending to dilute it but it appears now the other way around was more appropriate. 
I guess after giving a voice to the sickening agents, it is time to think of thickening ones, let's move it from gruesome to gluesome.
What to use to thicken best tear mender with?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alisha_Hooksit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/25/2018 at 2:58pm
Originally posted by BeaverMD BeaverMD wrote:

Originally posted by Baal Baal wrote:

It is weird to me that given the cost of blade and rubber that people persist with Tearmender when there are many good TT glues that don't present these problems. So they can save a couple of bucks on glue?


Timo Boll ZLC blade, $260
Two new sheets of Tenergy, $160 
Saving a few bucks on VOC-free glue, priceless Smile

And if you're still using rubber cement on any speed glue effect sponge (Tenergy or Tensors), you might as well flush your money down the toilet because you are not using the rubber but some mutated form of it.


Rubber cement mutates a pricey speed glue effect rubber and is like flushing your money down the toilet??? Is that a scientific and/or experience based opinion may I ask? For the record, rubber cement is NOT the same animal as speed glue, and while it does contain a modest level of VOCs, those quickly evaporate within a few days after gluing, so much that it will pass an ENEZ test at that point (you can look that up if you doubt it). Using rubber cement will initially soften the sponge somewhat for a mild and very temporary speed glue effect but does not cause rubber expansion nor adversely and permanently change the playing characteristics of the rubber, so it is simply not true to state that it ruins or mutates rubbers. WB glue on the other hand, is more time consuming, complicated, difficult to work with and apply evenly, overly expensive, and can damage an unsealed blade when removing it as you may find pieces of that priceless blade come off with the glue; and finally, as noted by others here, most of the stuff is quite difficult if not impossible to easily remove from the sponge for re-gluing. Rubber Cement +1000
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeaverMD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/25/2018 at 5:21pm
Originally posted by ZingyDNA ZingyDNA wrote:

Originally posted by BeaverMD BeaverMD wrote:

Originally posted by Baal Baal wrote:

It is weird to me that given the cost of blade and rubber that people persist with Tearmender when there are many good TT glues that don't present these problems. So they can save a couple of bucks on glue?


Timo Boll ZLC blade, $260
Two new sheets of Tenergy, $160 
Saving a few bucks on VOC-free glue, priceless Smile

And if you're still using rubber cement on any speed glue effect sponge (Tenergy or Tensors), you might as well flush your money down the toilet because you are not using the rubber but some mutated form of it.


But if you use a setup less than 60 dollars, (quite) a few dollars matter, right?   

Absolutely! I've got a pre-made blade that has old Tenergy rubbers on both sides as my back-up/loaner racket.  How one spends/saves money is their business.    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeaverMD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/25/2018 at 5:21pm
Originally posted by jt99sf jt99sf wrote:

Originally posted by BeaverMD BeaverMD wrote:

And if you're still using rubber cement on any speed glue effect sponge (Tenergy or Tensors), you might as well flush your money down the toilet because you are not using the rubber but some mutated form of it.

Thank goodness my playing level won't notice the difference. Big smile

My brother, when you're happy, I'm happy Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/25/2018 at 9:09pm
Thickening the tearmender instead of fluidify it more, I’ll be darned!
This might end badly, I’ll only experience outside if I do, some chemical reactions may heat things up and fume dangerously. I’m ok with tm out of the box, it’s all about no hurry.
I like the finesse involved in water based glueing. The water on the wood? Not so much.

Edited by fatt - 06/25/2018 at 9:09pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kindof99 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/26/2018 at 9:08am
Is rubber cement non toxic like tear mender?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeaverMD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/26/2018 at 9:11am
Originally posted by Alisha_Hooksit Alisha_Hooksit wrote:

Originally posted by BeaverMD BeaverMD wrote:

Originally posted by Baal Baal wrote:

It is weird to me that given the cost of blade and rubber that people persist with Tearmender when there are many good TT glues that don't present these problems. So they can save a couple of bucks on glue?


Timo Boll ZLC blade, $260
Two new sheets of Tenergy, $160 
Saving a few bucks on VOC-free glue, priceless Smile

And if you're still using rubber cement on any speed glue effect sponge (Tenergy or Tensors), you might as well flush your money down the toilet because you are not using the rubber but some mutated form of it.


Rubber cement mutates a pricey speed glue effect rubber and is like flushing your money down the toilet??? Is that a scientific and/or experience based opinion may I ask? For the record, rubber cement is NOT the same animal as speed glue, and while it does contain a modest level of VOCs, those quickly evaporate within a few days after gluing, so much that it will pass an ENEZ test at that point (you can look that up if you doubt it). Using rubber cement will initially soften the sponge somewhat for a mild and very temporary speed glue effect but does not cause rubber expansion nor adversely and permanently change the playing characteristics of the rubber, so it is simply not true to state that it ruins or mutates rubbers. WB glue on the other hand, is more time consuming, complicated, difficult to work with and apply evenly, overly expensive, and can damage an unsealed blade when removing it as you may find pieces of that priceless blade come off with the glue; and finally, as noted by others here, most of the stuff is quite difficult if not impossible to easily remove from the sponge for re-gluing. Rubber Cement +1000

Huh? Are you saying you found a way to cheat the ENEZ?
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