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What happen with new BTY blades?

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juanma4080 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 10/01/2018 at 10:38pm
hello i need your experience! my friend bought a Brand New Butterlfy innerforce ALC (from BTY USA Shop) code S, put two new rubbers Tenergy 05 both sides, play with the combination 3 weeks 6 days/week, 5 to 6 hours/day.. (National team) and he pull out the rubbers to change rubbers and look.. he used nittaku fine zip two layers each rubbers (nothing with booster).. what happen? somebody have the same experience? this pull out some of the wood!! and the blade was new (we taste with the hand over the plie and was "perfect".
thank you for your time!!!



Edited by juanma4080 - 10/01/2018 at 11:48pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote iamj8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 12:10am
Looks to me like the glue just filled in the serial number engraving. No cause for alarm.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juanma4080 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 12:16am
Originally posted by iamj8 iamj8 wrote:

Looks to me like the glue just filled in the serial number engraving. No cause for alarm.

Oh okok, but what about those pieces of wood? All over the rubber? Just for the glue?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jonyer1980 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 1:32am
I'm not a national player but an intermediate/advanced amateur player and this is quite common. Depending on the composition of outer plies, you can get some splinters or not, specially when brand new. Some porous out plys like limba are prone to this and some other don't like Hinoki. Sometimes this is also a matter of quality, BTY non Japan series are known to be quite poor craftsmanship&poor quality.

If your friend is indeed an experienced national player and have been playing with different variety of blades he will be used to that kind of behavior, specially when you peel off your rubbers for the first/second time.

I also like Nittaku finezip, but something the bond effect is so strong that the blade suffers too much when peeling of the rubbers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote zeio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 2:25am
That's nothing.





Viscaria FL - 91g
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote firetack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 2:31am
Have experienced splintering with Limba in the past,best to seal imo
blade:donic defplay senso fh/tenergy 05 fx 1.9 ,feint 3 0,5

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zeio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 2:36am
Originally posted by juanma4080 juanma4080 wrote:

Originally posted by iamj8 iamj8 wrote:

Looks to me like the glue just filled in the serial number engraving. No cause for alarm.

Oh okok, but what about those pieces of wood? All over the rubber? Just for the glue?

Those are not splinters. Those are the glue marks left from the glue filling the crevices between the wood fibers.
Viscaria FL - 91g
+ Neo H3 2.15 Blk - 44.5g(55.3g uncut bare)
+ Hexer HD 2.1 Red - 49.3g(68.5g 〃 〃)
= 184.8g
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Tt Gold Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 5:25am
Stiga quality Even sealed the blade
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote pingpungpeng Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 5:59am
you just bought the blade and applied nittaku finezip without even sealing the blade?
you gotta be crazy.....

every single blade, any brand, old or new tag, you always need to seal it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juanma4080 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 8:33am
Originally posted by jonyer1980 jonyer1980 wrote:

I'm not a national player but an intermediate/advanced amateur player and this is quite common. Depending on the composition of outer plies, you can get some splinters or not, specially when brand new. Some porous out plys like limba are prone to this and some other don't like Hinoki. Sometimes this is also a matter of quality, BTY non Japan series are known to be quite poor craftsmanship&poor quality.

If your friend is indeed an experienced national player and have been playing with different variety of blades he will be used to that kind of behavior, specially when you peel off your rubbers for the first/second time.

I also like Nittaku finezip, but something the bond effect is so strong that the blade suffers too much when peeling of the rubbers.


Yes I guess it’s the nittaku fine zip, but I put on my blades (old ones) and are very resistance. Well he need to be more carefully on pulling out the rubber.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juanma4080 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 8:34am
Originally posted by zeio zeio wrote:

That's nothing.







Wooww, did you use booster or just water based glue?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juanma4080 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 8:35am
Originally posted by firetack firetack wrote:

Have experienced splintering with Limba in the past,best to seal imo
and
Do you know a brand of sealing? What would recommend?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juanma4080 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 8:36am
Originally posted by Tt Gold Tt Gold wrote:

Stiga quality Even sealed the blade


Wow! You took a piece of wood!! It can be fixed?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juanma4080 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 8:38am
Originally posted by pingpungpeng pingpungpeng wrote:

you just bought the blade and applied nittaku finezip without even sealing the blade?
you gotta be crazy.....

every single blade, any brand, old or new tag, you always need to seal it.


Yes he don’t seal the blade. But I didn’t never sealed my blades it’s necessary? And which brand would be nice?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote mykonos96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 10:18am
Originally posted by Tt Gold Tt Gold wrote:

Stiga quality Even sealed the blade


Its not the sealing its the ply and bond that is too soft. Blade not dry enough
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote pingpungpeng Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 10:40am
Originally posted by juanma4080 juanma4080 wrote:

Originally posted by pingpungpeng pingpungpeng wrote:

you just bought the blade and applied nittaku finezip without even sealing the blade?
you gotta be crazy.....

every single blade, any brand, old or new tag, you always need to seal it.


Yes he don’t seal the blade. But I didn’t never sealed my blades it’s necessary? And which brand would be nice?

yes all blades must be sealed, unless they come pre-sealed, like the stiga ebenholz for example.
since this was butterfly you only had tiny pieces of wood.
if it was another brand you would have big chunks of wood and a destroyed blade.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Alisha_Hooksit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 10:52am
Originally posted by juanma4080 juanma4080 wrote:

Originally posted by pingpungpeng pingpungpeng wrote:

you just bought the blade and applied nittaku finezip without even sealing the blade?
you gotta be crazy.....

every single blade, any brand, old or new tag, you always need to seal it.


Yes he don’t seal the blade. But I didn’t never sealed my blades it’s necessary? And which brand would be nice?


You can also just use rubber cement instead of water-based glue. With rubber cement the blade does not need to be sealed and also will not damage the top ply wood on the blade or rip pieces off the sponge when you need to remove it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jpenmaster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 11:17am
Always seal your blade and only remove your rubber side to side not handle to top. Companies have been trying to make lighter blades so they try and use the minimum amount of epoxy or glue possible cause of this you may get a blade that delaminates.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Fraziel66 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 11:20am
" BTY non Japan series are known to be quite poor craftsmanship&poor quality"

Sorry but that is just not true The non Japanese made Butterfly blades , and I have bought one recently and handled others, are perfectly well made and are good quality. It is simply not true to say they are poor quality and I am sure Butterfly would not agree and why would they sell something that isn't good quality? I have heard several people say this and I wonder if they have even used or seen the non Japanese made blades.You can buy a Butterfly non Japanese made blade and be sure it will be absolutely fine.

As for the blade splintering, you should always lacquer a new blade to stop splintering. Water based lacquer by TSP or Joola do the job very well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Fraziel66 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 11:21am
TSP and Joola do good water based ones/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote taczkid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 11:37am
I would try different glue, perhaps fine zip is too strong
try butterfly free chack 2 or revolution...
I personally do not seal my blade, and yes if top ply is soft wood like limba sometime it will peal a bit of wood... that's normal...
There is also a possibility that your friend when using fine zip also used a Rubber press, or put something extremely heavy therefore created TOO strong bond between glue and wood thos causing wood to come off...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jonyer1980 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 6:00pm
Originally posted by Fraziel66 Fraziel66 wrote:

" BTY non Japan series are known to be quite poor craftsmanship&poor quality"

Sorry but that is just not true The non Japanese made Butterfly blades , and I have bought one recently and handled others, are perfectly well made and are good quality. It is simply not true to say they are poor quality and I am sure Butterfly would not agree and why would they sell something that isn't good quality? I have heard several people say this and I wonder if they have even used or seen the non Japanese made blades.You can buy a Butterfly non Japanese made blade and be sure it will be absolutely fine.

As for the blade splintering, you should always lacquer a new blade to stop splintering. Water based lacquer by TSP or Joola do the job very well.


Ive got a bunch of made in Japan old tag BTY blades. I can share some poor craftsmanship blades&splinter problems non made in Japan such as: Primorac off- SBC, Timo Boll forte, Timo Boll All+ series, non Japanes Korbel or even Mazunov.


Otoh I still keep my Hinoki outer ply like Primorac Carbon or Jonyer ot even my old TBS koto outer, that after many years and tons of speed glue are great condition and zero splinters
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote fatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 6:37pm
Originally posted by jpenmaster jpenmaster wrote:

Always seal your blade and only remove your rubber side to side not handle to top. Companies have been trying to make lighter blades so they try and use the minimum amount of epoxy or glue possible cause of this you may get a blade that delaminates.
the answer probably lies in aesthetics but I'll ask anyway: it is intuitive to take the rubber off from bottom to top, just because the grip and leverage is stronger that way: I pull from the handle and I pull the rubber from the bottom the other way; laterally is bit less convenient even though it's not the end of the world. 
My question is: why wouldn't manufacturers build their blades with the outer plies 90 deg oriented compared to what it is done now? 5 plies? core and outer plies horizontal, middle plies vertical. 7 plies? core/2/6 vertical and 1/3/5/7 horizontal... 
What do you think? aesthetics only? planned obsolescence? a mix of both?


Edited by fatt - 10/02/2018 at 6:39pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote igorponger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/02/2018 at 8:12pm


Black Crystalline, a special treatment of the plywood. Anti-splitting warranty. Protection against veneer splitting.

Edited by igorponger - 10/02/2018 at 8:42pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juanma4080 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/04/2018 at 10:56am
Originally posted by Alisha_Hooksit Alisha_Hooksit wrote:

Originally posted by juanma4080 juanma4080 wrote:

Originally posted by pingpungpeng pingpungpeng wrote:

you just bought the blade and applied nittaku finezip without even sealing the blade?
you gotta be crazy.....

every single blade, any brand, old or new tag, you always need to seal it.


Yes he don’t seal the blade. But I didn’t never sealed my blades it’s necessary? And which brand would be nice?


You can also just use rubber cement instead of water-based glue. With rubber cement the blade does not need to be sealed and also will not damage the top ply wood on the blade or rip pieces off the sponge when you need to remove it.


Which brand do you recommend?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juanma4080 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/04/2018 at 10:58am
Originally posted by taczkid taczkid wrote:

I would try different glue, perhaps fine zip is too strong
try butterfly free chack 2 or revolution...
I personally do not seal my blade, and yes if top ply is soft wood like limba sometime it will peal a bit of wood... that's normal...
There is also a possibility that your friend when using fine zip also used a Rubber press, or put something extremely heavy therefore created TOO strong bond between glue and wood thos causing wood to come off...


Yes maybe it’s time try the free chack 2 too! Thanks!
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use old school glue, non VOC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pr1nc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/04/2018 at 1:33pm
Originally posted by juanma4080 juanma4080 wrote:

Originally posted by Alisha_Hooksit Alisha_Hooksit wrote:

Originally posted by juanma4080 juanma4080 wrote:

Originally posted by pingpungpeng pingpungpeng wrote:

you just bought the blade and applied nittaku finezip without even sealing the blade?
you gotta be crazy.....

every single blade, any brand, old or new tag, you always need to seal it.


Yes he don’t seal the blade. But I didn’t never sealed my blades it’s necessary? And which brand would be nice?


You can also just use rubber cement instead of water-based glue. With rubber cement the blade does not need to be sealed and also will not damage the top ply wood on the blade or rip pieces off the sponge when you need to remove it.


Which brand do you recommend?



I use Joola protective blade sealant and varnish.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote henningf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/04/2018 at 5:40pm
I rearly see splintering on Butterfly blades (I mainly glue with Butterfly glue) and I usually glue one or two blades a week (I glue for club members that can’t or won’t glue themself) but on Stiga blades... do yourself a favor, seal your brand new Stiga blade... they splinter... on Butterfly blades... if you want to be absolutly shure. Just seal it, I don’t bother, but my rubbers usually cost more than the blade.
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