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Rubber gluing question

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Simon_plays View Drop Down
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    Posted: 01/17/2019 at 7:41am
Hi guys,

Had this recommended to me: before cutting and attaching the rubber to the blade, spread a thin layer of glue on the sponge and let it dry. Then attach as normal. Doing this is supposed to make it easier to remove and reattach the rubber later.

Is this the standard way to attach rubbers?
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taczkid View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote taczkid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/17/2019 at 8:48am
Well it kind of makes sense, this is how I always been doing it in steps.

1. Make sure the surface of the blade is super clean.
2. Apply one layer of glue to the blade.
3. Apply 1 layer of glue to the sponge of the rubber.
4. Wait for about 10min(depending on glue u use) to make sure it is dry, if you want to use hairdryer it will speed up drying process to less than a minute.
5. Apply rubber to the blade starting from the handle and then slowly unfold it going up.
6. Then press down on the rubber (I place a book and then firmly press with my handle. (Some people use a roller, but if you stretch rubber too much with roller, it will shrink over time and will be smaller than you blade. That is why I use pressing method.
7. Cut the rubber using shark scissors or utility knife, blade etc. I personally use scissors. Then press on the edges around the blade to make sure they are still glue nicely after cutting.
8. Repeat steps 1-7 on the other side.
9. No sure if you use edge tape or not, but I noticed edge tape saves edges but for some reason my racket plays better without it, I think edge tape limits some tension to rubber, I stopped using edge tape.

Hope this works for you. There are also many videos I am sure on youtube that show similar process.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lula Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/17/2019 at 8:56am
Like the Guy above explains. I want to add that it is important to wait for the glue to dry and in my opinion it can not be too dry. And when you put on the rubber on the blade make sure you Do not have the handle at the table so you break it when you put the rubber on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Simon_plays Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/17/2019 at 11:28am
Thanks, 

The only part that I was unsure about was whether there was any benefit to just getting one layer of glue on the sponge first and letting that completely dry before putting glue on blade and sponge again.

Previously I'd always put one layer on sponge and blade at the same time, impatiently waited for them to dry and stuck the rubber on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vanjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/17/2019 at 3:07pm
I am not in the majority, but whether i use rubber cement of a water based glue i do one coat on the sponge and one on the blade. I NEVER wait till it is dry to attach. I prefer if to be tacky to touch. When i wait for it it dry it does not stick. I also always wait at least a day before playing with it and use heavy books to keep it attached.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ericd937 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/18/2019 at 6:36am
Originally posted by fatt fatt wrote:

I decided a while ago that I would never again put water based glue on my blades. Whether or not the water infiltrating the wood destroys the blade overtime, I see no reason to put any on it since I can use one coat of rubber cement on the blade and one coat of rubber cement OVER the 3 very thin coats of water based blue that I let completely dry on the sponge (10 to 15 minutes between coats). That way, my adherence is perfect, my blade does not EVER suffer contact with water and I can still take all glues from the sponge in ONE chunk which is the supreme advantage of using WBG (I still use Tear Mender).
Illegal? I don't think so since the characteristics of the rubber remain unchanged, the rubber does not dome even a bit, does not expand even a bit with the thin coat of RC I put on the sponge over the 3 coats of WBG. 




Totally agree. It took me years in to figure this out. Water based glue completely destroys your blade over time. I stopped using it also.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mike1250 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/18/2019 at 9:47pm

I sealed most of my blades with outdoor MinWax poly urethane in at least 2 coats to assure waterproof for the blade . Then I glued the rubbers to the blade  using Elmer's RC following  the conventional way as discussed .  Lately, I started using Elmer clear school glue and to my utter surprise, it really worked well also !

If I use Elmer's  clear school glue, I can cut the rubbers out first then glue them on to the blade . This method works well as the school glue is slow drying and  it is very easy to adjust the rubbers to fit the blade exacltly.  I then use a few  pieces of drafting tape to tape over the edge of the blade to make sure the rubbers stay immobilzed when I put a few heavy  books on top. In most cases , the paddle is ready for play after 12 hours under the weght of the books ( i.e. about 10. lbs )  .



Edited by mike1250 - 01/18/2019 at 11:49pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joo Se Kev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/19/2019 at 6:40am
Originally posted by fatt fatt wrote:

I decided a while ago that I would never again put water based glue on my blades. Whether or not the water infiltrating the wood destroys the blade overtime, I see no reason to put any on it since I can use one coat of rubber cement on the blade and one coat of rubber cement OVER the 3 very thin coats of water based blue that I let completely dry on the sponge (10 to 15 minutes between coats). That way, my adherence is perfect, my blade does not EVER suffer contact with water and I can still take all glues from the sponge in ONE chunk which is the supreme advantage of using WBG (I still use Tear Mender).
Illegal? I don't think so since the characteristics of the rubber remain unchanged, the rubber does not dome even a bit, does not expand even a bit with the thin coat of RC I put on the sponge over the 3 coats of WBG. 


Interesting technique! The rubber cement doesn't dissolve the layers of water based glue? Is the playing surface free of those ripples you sometimes get as well?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bars Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/23/2019 at 1:04am
Adding glue layers helps when you peel the glue off. Somw say it feels better some say it makes it hard to engage the sponge. Ive tried 1 thin 1 thin - and things like 2 and 4 layers of glue.

Also the glue may peel off more evenly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lasta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/23/2019 at 1:19am
Easier way is just to use WBG on the sponge and rubber cement on the blade. They stick together just fine, no need to put rubber cement over the WBG.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lightzy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/23/2019 at 8:37pm
If you don't dry out the glue your rubber will shrink on the blade or you'll get bubbles etc very likely.

Using an airdryer not only quickens the drying of the glue, but it also 'overdries' it making it even more sticky and making absolutely sure that you won't get these problems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anubhav1984 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/24/2019 at 3:09pm
I always apply 2 layers of Water Based Glue (either Revolution No 3, Normal Viscosity or just Tear Mender) on the Blade and 2 (minimum) - 3 (recommended) layers on the sponge

I have seen others do this as well and I think some people get this wrong where they just spread the glue all around without a set pattern and it makes it very difficult to remove the rubbers from the blade and glue from sponge as well. DON'T DO THIS!

The trick that I know works for sure with both of the glues that I have mentioned above is to ensure that you apply thin layers of glue evenly in one direction (like go from bottom to top and keep your strokes as straight as possible). 
Apply the layers evenly on both blade and sponge, making sure that you allow each layer to dry up completely (I use a hair dryer to expedite the process :)) and you should be able to easily peel the rubber off the blade and the glue should come off of the blade as well (assuming the blade is sealed). Then, you will have one nice layer of glue to peel off of the rubber and it will all come out very very easily without damaging the sponge.

The other thing that I would recommend, just out of experience, is to avoid applying booster to glue layers and then sticking that on the blade. The boosters mush up the glue layer and make it really hard to be taken off.
If I decide to apply booster (for fun), I usually apply the booster on the sponge and let it dry completely and then apply glue to the sponge. Or, have at least 3 layers of glue on the sponge, apply one to two layers of booster on the glue and then add 2 more layers of glue after booster dries up. This way, you sort of grab the booster in between the layers and it doesn't pose that much problem. You obviously risk going overboard in the thickness of the rubbers this way though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mike1250 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/24/2019 at 7:51pm

I used to use Elmer's rubber cement to glue rubbers on a blade .  I found that the RC was quite thick to spread evenly . Someone suggested to thin the RC out with gasoline . My questions:

1) What is the best ratio by volume for the mix ?   ( i.e.  gasoline/ Elmer RC   )

2) Is there a risk for  the sponge or the rubber to bulge out due to gasoline in the glue ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anubhav1984 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/24/2019 at 8:38pm
Try rubbing alchohol instead. Also, water glue is really much more easier to use and remove.

Originally posted by mike1250 mike1250 wrote:


I used to use Elmer's rubber cement to glue rubbers on a blade .  I found that the RC was quite thick to spread evenly . Someone suggested to thin the RC out with gasoline . My questions:

1) What is the best ratio by volume for the mix ?   ( i.e.  gasoline/ Elmer RC   )

2) Is there a risk for  the sponge or the rubber to bulge out due to gasoline in the glue ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote qpskfec Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/24/2019 at 8:57pm
There is no need to thin RC. If it's thick, it is old. Buy a new one. It's $2-3.

A new bottle of RC spreads fine. It's a little easier to spread evenly if you use a makeup sponge.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jt99sf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/24/2019 at 9:03pm
Use a credit card to spread the RC.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mike1250 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/24/2019 at 10:21pm
[QUOTE=anubhav1984]Try rubbing alchohol instead. Also, water glue is really much more easier to use and remove.

 Wow ! This is new to me . If rubbing alcohol can thin out  RC then it is superb as the smell of gasoline & other paint thinners is just terrible  !  Thanks for this great tip ClapClap


Edited by mike1250 - 01/24/2019 at 10:22pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anubhav1984 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/25/2019 at 5:03pm
Originally posted by mike1250 mike1250 wrote:

[QUOTE=anubhav1984]Try rubbing alchohol instead. Also, water glue is really much more easier to use and remove.

 Wow ! This is new to me . If rubbing alcohol can thin out  RC then it is superb as the smell of gasoline & other paint thinners is just terrible  !  Thanks for this great tip ClapClap

Being completely honest here - I haven't ever tried that method before. On second thoughts, I would actually recommend Nail Polish remover instead Smile
Now, Nail Polish remover (or just basic Acetone) is something that I have tried before. Back in the Rubber Cement days, I used to use a few drops of nail polish remover to quickly and easily remove the rubbers from the blade and then clean the blade surface as well. 
I am unsure if Rubbing Alcohol would have the same dilution properties as regular acetone and Nail Polish removers are probably easier on the smell too (as compared to paint thinners).
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